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RobS

Returning player/equipment changes

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Morning all,

 

i used to play airsoft regularly about 5-6 years ago and all of my kit has been in storage since. I had a metal bodied classic army m15a4 with full stock. This had a nicad battery, 2400 I believe.

 

The battery has not leaked but I doubt it would now hold a charge.

 

Do people think the rifle will be okay internally? Should I try the battery on the old charger or replace? Move to lipo's? Can my old gun cope with modern batteries?

 

Also, their are 2 sites in the North East I have found ntac and nsc , as I have my own gun can I play their without this ukara registration or do I need that only to buy new rifles?

 

Lastly, if I enjoy my return I would ultimately want a new shiny gun, back in my day TM was the best with classic army braking through, but these days a quick visit to zero one was very confusing, much cheaper ages and a lot of new names. Any advice to the best manufacturers?

 

Thanks everyone,

 

Rob

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I would say, perhaps buy an NIMH and try the gun out on that. You could move to LiPo but I'm not sure as to whether the gun could take it or not. For cheap starter guns, you would be looking at G&G combat machine range, I have one myself. Practically bomb proof, costs pennies and out shoots a lot of guns twice the price!

Welcome to the forums as well :)

P.S everyone will recommend the G&G CM for m4. If you are looking for something else, perhaps an mp5 or whatever tell us, and also mention your budget :)

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the internal designs of airsoft guns haven't changed all that much since you stopped playing, your CA gun will be absolutely fine on a 7.4v LiPo, 11.1v will eventually burn your trigger contacts out though.

 

regarding brands, for AEGs TM are still king of the hill, their recoil shock range are the best out-of-the -box guns you can buy at the moment.

G&G will be new to you, they're a taiwanese brand that in the last few years have really shaken up the budget-mid range market by offering very high quality stuff at reasonable prices.

 

G&P / VFC may also be new names, both are widely regarded as being high quality. The external finish of their guns will be like nothing you've seen before when compared to the older CA and TM stuff.

 

Thankfully there's no law covering the OWNERSHIP of a RIF (realistic imitation firearm) so you'll be able to play at any site with it no problem, you will however need to avail yourself of a 'defence against prosecution' before anyone can legally sell you another one. UKARA is the easiest and most widely accepted method of doing this, and it only takes 3 games in no less than 2 months to meet the criteria.

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Thanks for the reply :)

 

Are nimh batteries better than the old nicad? Same charger I'm guessing though?

 

As I have a M4 style gun already I would probably want something a little different, maybe a SCAR? Same midcaps I have know I presume would work fine with a scar?

 

Budget wise I won't buy cheap, would rather save up and buy the right kit once than waste my money. Would rather get something that was going to be reliable and perform at site max fps ideally straight from the box :)

 

Great to here about the UKARA info, thanks for that :)

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Welcome to the forums :)

Nice introductory post, helps get the cogs turning right off the bat and there are no stupid questions, I like you already haha.

First and foremost, UKARA is just for buying guns from retailers, it isn't a legal requirement, there's nothing written in law about it, and when carrying out private sales it isn't required (though some people will still ask for it). There are countless - Literally, I'd rather shoot myself than try and count them - topics in the law section that will include everything you'd ever want to know about the legal side of things.

I imagine your Classic Army rifle is more or less the same internally as their newer iterations, there haven't been a lot of hugely technological advances in terms of bog standard version 2 gearbox tech, the gun ought to be perfectly fine running 7.4v LiPos, just steer clear of 11.1s unless you've inspected the internals and made sure they can take it. MOSFETs are generally advised for the sake of the trigger contacts when using 11.1s too.

If your gun works though, there's no reason not to field it.

When looking for a shiny new pewpew it helps us narrow it down if you give us a budget and some search parameters, style of gun, intended use (CQB/woodland/etc). G&G are generally the go-to manufacturer, if G&G make something that suits your requirements, it will likely be the most cost effective option with regard to cost for performance in relation to the other options on the market. G&G are epic.

As for finding sites, have a look on Google for the Airbana airsoft map, Facebook can be a good resource too, or you could ask the players at the two sites you mentioned, they're bound to play in numerous other sites around the same area. There'll probably be someone on here who lives in your area who will know about other local sites too.

I think I've covered everything... If you need any help navigating the forums then drop one of the mods a PM, we're all listed here: Meet the mods.

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Yeah NiMh is a step up from NiCad but it's still pretty stone age. I'd definitely recommend going straight to LiPo, you'll notice the difference and it'll save you buying a load of NiMh batteries that you'll end up replacing anyway!

 

As for guns performing at site max straight from the box, even the 'higher end' (with the exception of TM, they're still kicking it at ~300fps every time) have large variations in FPS from gun to gun out of the box, websites will quote 340 / 320 / etc but that's more of a median average than an actual number for the exact gun you'll get. Some retailers (pro airsoft supplies are good for this) if you give them a call will find you one that shoots the velocity you want just by opening boxes and checking them til they find one. If they can't find one, or have limited stock for a small fee they'll normally open it up and put a new spring in for you.

 

That said, if you're not going cheap and you want a SCAR, I highly recommend the TM SCAR, best one on the market by a country mile; recoil simulation (it has a big lead weight that moves around inside to make the gun shake), magazines stop the gun firing when empty, extremely accurate external detail and colour and the best hop-up unit available anywhere.

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