Speedbird_666

To answer your questions: - Yes, I like to model the parts myself wherever possible, although you can find a fair bit of stuff on Thingiverse. I use Fusion 360 as my modelling software and Cura for slicing the model for print. If you want to design more 'organic' (such as your skull masks) I know people use software such as Z-brush and blender to produce the models, but I have no experience with these. - That's a difficult question to answer, as there are several main types of printable plastic (PLA, PETG and ABS), and numerous sub-variations with additives and special properties. I'm using PLA+, which is less brittle than normal PLA, but at the cost of some mechanical strength. Normal PLA will catastrophically fail (i.e. snap or shear) , PLA+ is more likely to bend and stretch. In the example of my drop-stock adapter, it's been printed in the least-optimal way for strength (the receiver extension for the buffer tube could potentially fail under enough force) due to the way that a printer lays down plastic layers on top of each other, but it was easiest to print it that way. In reality, the adapter feels more solid that the plastic G&G receiver it's attached to and there is zero flex, but time will tell. I have an idea for the next version to make it a 2-piece design that means that the receiver stub will be printed in a different orientation to the rest of the adapter. Current design print layer direction vs 2-piece design: - I'm using a Creality Ender 3 V2 bought directly from the Creality UK warehouse. It was on sale for £168 with free postage, but I think the price is back up to around £200 now. I'm running it pretty much stock with no upgrades other than a quieter fan for the PSU and yellow bed springs. I plan to add BLtouch (self leveling sensor) and some new bowden tubing at some point soon though.

Now that is a cool (no pun) idea. I didn't realise you could get blowers that small. I could potentially integrate those into the sides of my paintball goggles. My only concern would be fan noise?

Job done. Perfect, tight fit first time (wasn't expecting that, hence the Red filament as I'm running low on black). Will print a black one shortly now I know the tolerances and fitment work.

This. Also, KWA tend to use proprietary parts in their GBs (tappet/nozzle), so upgrading/repairing later might be trickier. I would get a cheap GB for now to play around with - you can still upgrade the tits out of it, but if you fuck up (and you will to start with) it's won't be so painful financially.

I see someone is flogging G&G Drop stock adapters for £25 a pop. Decided to design my own for my son's gun (he wears a paintball mask). Not quite as slick as their design, but an hour or so of CAD work gives me this. Prototype is on the printer now.

A mate needed a thumb-saver reloading thingy for his Hi-Capa mags. 10 minutes in Fusion 360, and 40 minutes on the printer later, it worked out pretty good.

My village PO charged me £16 for a standard-sized RIF box but with a heavy E&L AK plus a bunch of metal mid-cap mags taped to the side (just under 6Kg). She also knocks off another 15% because I have a Rewards4U card from ParcelForce (ask at the counter or apply online - free with no requirements). Total price was a smidge over £14. Last plastic-bodied RIF (<5kg) I sent cost £11 with the 15% discount via PF48. I've checked the pricing on PF website and it hasn't changed since I last sent a RIF in April.

This is the only way my local post-mistress will accept a RIF to send - no additional compensation can be be applied and she reads the rules as £100 cover only, so that's the way I've been sending them. I tell her 'low powered air weapon for sporting use'. I would wager that they would just retort with this part of their policy and politely tell you to jog on. That pretty much sums up every RIF.

£24 postage! - last RIF I sent an month or so ago (a heavy E&L AK with a bunch of mags) cost me £13 via PF48. Nice enough gun otherwise.

Even cheapo £100 JG G36s come with side rails, so it's shocking that gun costing 400 notes doesn't come with them. The gun looks good though.

At least spares support is excellent through Fire-Support. I love working on ICS guns because they are so easy to pull apart. I have three ICS guns and they are great performers out of the box. I've had 4-5 G&G guns over the years also, and they are OK too. My son rolls with my G&G SRS and he loves it.

Still £32 and in stock on HobbyRC: https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/skyrc-s65-65w-6a-ac-balance-charger

Mk III fan mount fully finished, working and mounted, Mk I Goggle strap Battery box done (looks bigger in the picture than it actually is). Battery box needs refinement - I forgot to radius the edges. Mk II will be on the printer later today.

Sounds on face value like normal semi-lockup - although I would expect it to be a likely encountered issue if you are running an 11.1v LiPo That, and you mention that it's firing fully auto even on semi. It implies a cutoff lever/switch issue. If you fire semi at a steady pace, say 2-3 times a second, does it lock up then? I had one of these guns waaaay back, and it shot OK in semi even with a 7.4v LiPo.

I always recommend 2 LiPos, so you can switch at lunchtime. Over-discharging can fatally damage them. If you are running the Core on the stock motor, you might not get the best performance with a 7.4v LiPo. I would add an SHS Hi-Torque Motor (or equivalent) to the 'must upgrade' list to give you a nicer trigger response and more reasonable ROF (14-15 RPS) on a 7.4v LiPo - that's the setup I typically use on my guns with 'stock' internals.

Don't forget to pick up some Yellow bed springs (amazon etc.). They make bed-levelling much easier and consistent. I got lucky, my youngest son has been hounding my missus for a 3D printer for the last 6 months (he's obsessed with the idea of making his own table-top games and scenery - he's only 8 bless him), so when they were on offer via the Creality website to coincide with Amazon's prime day, she couldn't really say no.

I think it's a slightly scaled-up Ender 3 Pro, with a couple of upgrades (metal extruder) - I'm new to 3D printing myself, so I can only go on what I researched on YouTube etc. Here's quite a good review: Whilst having the extra build area is probably nice to have, bear in mind 3D printing takes ages. So if you have a print that fully fills the Max, expect 24hr+ prints, especially if it's something intricate. I'm lucky in that my work is shifting to a permanent work from home model, where at most I'll only ever be in the office two days a week, it means that I can set prints off in the morning and keep an eye on them throughout the day. I would be gutted if a 10-15hr print failed halfway through whilst I'm out and I came home to a colossal mess of plastic.

Yep - If you like making stuff then it's a great tool to have. I'm toying with making an OpenRC F1 Car over the next few weeks because whilst it'll take hours/days to print, it'll cost very little in material cost. I want to model some scale RC boats too, so that's on my 'to-do' list also. I have various Airsoft ideas I want to try, but I need to improve on my modelling skills in Fusion360 first. I would splurge the extra on the Pro model over the stock Ender 3 I think, and it can be had for £136 (£142 with glass bed) from the new dedicated Creality UK warehouse website that launched last week. 1st time customers get £8 off on orders over £150 so I would add a roll of filament to get started with. I have the V2 (approx £170), which is pretty much a Pro with a different screen, 32 bit board and a power supply stupidly tucked away and shrouded underneath which makes it sound like a Jet engine due to the lack of airflow. The (older) Pro has the power supply in a more sensible location, a more practical screen, yet has a few nice upgrades over the stock Ender 3 model, but I'm not sure what board it comes with though. As it's open source, there a stupid amount of upgrades and spares available for it, along with the community support and YouTube videos to help guide you.

Mark II Goggle fan mount with integrated on/off switch. Tested fitted - just need to solder up a switch - and find some black screws. Next step - goggle strap mounted battery enclosure.

Knocked up a simple fan mount for my goggles: A quick and dirty print (0.3mm layer height so the curves aren't all that smooth) to test the concept - and it works great. The PLA works surprisingly well to dampen nearly all the fan vibration. MK2 will have a rubber gasket between the fan and mount and integrated on/off switch with concealed wiring for the switch and fan.

Do you have any pictures of the damage to the upper? is it definitely not fixable?

What material did you print those in out of interest?

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/official-creality-ender-3-3d-printer?variant=31958151331913

I'm actually using PLA+ which is a bit tougher than normal PLA apparently. I have no clue TBH - it was cheap on Amazon for Prime Day (£12 for a 1KG roll) to get started with. Every print so far has been really good. Yeh - In future I will be using ABS, but I need a new hot end first. The rear rail is about as big as I would want to go with the material - but with 100% infill it feels tough enough to throw a cheap optic on and if it breaks it wouldn't ruin my day as it's non-structural to the gun itself. The 'standard' Ender 3 is £120 with free postage from Creality's UK Warehouse (2-3 day shipping), which is a stonking deal. If you are just looking to print (i.e. thingiverse models) then all you need is Cura to slice the models and a couple of YouTube vids to point you in the right direction.

Almost completely stock. Only mod is the yellow bed springs. I'll be upgrading the hot end to an all-metal jobbie at some point for ABS. Using PLA (for now). 0.16mm Layer Height. 100% Infill for the rails. Took ages but worth it.