LazzurusMan

Cheers guys. Ordered a tan bucking and omega nub

HOP RUBBER. Before you all start. I'm looking at getting a macron bucking and omega nub, and can't decide which bucking to go for. Which would be best for British weather, .28 bbs and about 350fps (on .2s).

Definitely. Red connector on red blade, black connector on black blade. I'll try it the other way round just in case it's a production fault

I hadn't thought using a multimeter. I've got to get some wire for my Sig anyway, so I might just replace it anyway. If the wire is shot, could it have damaged the motor when I tested it?

It seems to have been my tappet plate, and one of my gears had broken it's shaft and I'd lost a tooth on another gear (no idea how, it's practically brand new but warranty void due to flat hopping). Unfortunately, after putting in new gears the motor won't turn at all now. I pull the trigger and I can feel the motor kinda "click" and do nothing else, even if the motor is outside the gun. I did have some damage to a wire where the pistol grip caught it, but I covered it with electrical tape. Could a couple of the strands of wire being broken cut power to one of the wires? Or have I somehow shorted my motor completely?

Simple one that I'm hoping someone can tell me how to fix easily. My Ares mutant has an issue where bbs get stuck in the hop rubber feeding lips. The gun was firing fine, then suddenly it;ll maybe fire two rounds then get stuck and have to be stripped to remove the bb. I'm hoping its a hop issue and not my nozzle, but how likely is it to be an issue in my GB? Ok so just tested it after rebuilding the hop unit (again) and it jams instantly, but works fine if I turn it upside down. Now I'm really confused.

Probably was me, I'm STILL trying to get my KA Sig556 sorted, all I need now is a new motor and some wioring and it SHOULD (fingers crossed, wood touched, horseshoe in hand) be skirmishable. I have no idea what that is, and it sounds risky cuting the shaft down on a perfectly good motor. I'll keep it in mind as a backup idea though if I can't find anything cheaper that'll do the same as the infinity 30k

...is like trying to find a ceramic needle in a stack of wet hay. I've found the one I would idealy like in firesupport, Infinity 30k medium shaft, but it's nearly £70. Does anyone know of any other medium shaft motors, or how I could use a long or short shaft motor instead?

I can't fit any other hop unit in the mutant, it has it's own design, a little like the hop unit on an aug. I have heard of people using maple leaf bucking and nubs in a mutant by cutting and filing the hop arm to get an omega nub to fit. I might do that in the future, but for now I can get enough range on .25s, and now I know why .28s don't work, the hop is just realy sensitive.

Well the hop unit is proprietary to the rif, the one in that picture just shares the same hop arm but it's a different hop unit that screws into the outer barrel. I don't get why the bbs would jam or just splutter out if the hop arm isn't pushing down enough. Honestly it's like theres too much hop. I had the same issue with the stock bucking, so I think I've got the first too issues you mentioned. It's got a very small sweet spot and I've gone over that point and need to very finely adjust back. Or just leave it and stick with .25s.

You caan just about see the hoip arm in this photo, and it's like its got an omega nub as part of the hop arm. I've checked the hop with the barrel in, and when I turn the hop up I can see the rubber pushing down into the hop chamber beautifully. My issue is, when I try to hop .28s it's like the hop goes from not quite enouigh to too much with very little movement, and the bbs jam or just splutter out of the barrel. .25s I can get 40m, 50 if I counter the drop.

I used what I think is a guarder rubber. The nub is built in to my hop arm, and its similar to the omega nub from maple leaf. I flat hopped as I wanted to test and see if I could get more range and accuracy without spending more money as I have another spare rubber if this didnt work.

So, the other day I flat hopped my ares mutant, and on .25s I can get about 40 metres without lifting the barrel too much, 50 if I aim up. I put .28s in it, and obviously I need to up the amount of hop. Then they start jamming, double feeding and almost falling out of the barrel. Is this down to too much hop?

Not with the mutant. The stock tune screws into the body for you to put the battery in and get to the quick change spring.

Morning all. I was wondering if anyone with one of the longer mutants with the "solid" type stock could tell me what part I would need to attach a solid/crane stock to my mutant? I currently have the stock wwith the velcro strap and I'm looking to change it. Also, doers anyone know of a hop unit that would fit the mutant, as the one that comes stock is a little naff, it doesn't seem to do fine adjustment too well.

Should have a new asg sti combat master hi-capa, spare co2 mag, retention holster and molle adapter arriving just in time for this weekends skirmish.

Does anyone know if there are any power down rounds for the co2 Schofield? I really like the look of it, but 400+ FPS is way too much for me to use at my local sites. If there aren't any power down rounds, does anyone know how to make it less powerful?

I'm thinking more gunmetal than bare metal, just need to decide on the exact colour. I'll probably be using Halfords rattle cans, and they're all specific car colours. Nissan gunmetal sounds good though.

I'm using an acetech brighter C, and the tracer rounds are bright even in daylight, they'll see me if they want to or not 🤣

So I've been stripping the handguard on my Ares mutant ready for a fresh coat of matte black as it was badly scratched, and decided to see what it looked like as bare metal. I kind of like it. I'm thinking I might spray it up in gunmetal, and do the buffer tube too. What does everyone think?

I'm fully re-wiring the sig, I was only putting it back together to see what my fps is with an sp120, and 16/1 gears SS two teeth. I could try soldering the wire to the raised portion of the metal contact? That might actually make it easier to fit the motor too.

The metal piece that the wire was soldered onto has broken off. I don't know if I can replace/fix that.

I didn't think I'd be able to/it would be safe to replace parts of the motor. I hadn't thought of that.

Was just putting the Sig back together for an fps check, and one of the motor contacts broke off. Anyonme know of an equivalent motor to the ultimate infinity 30k? I'm struggling to find the short type in stock.

.25 at least, tempted to go up to .28 or .30. FPS not a clue, the rifle is still in bits waiting in a full rewire and a new motor. Hoping to have it just under 350, but if it's over I've just limit it to semi and use it as a dmr, so I'll be uping the weight if I do.