LazzurusMan

Took off all the shims I put on, put a rubber washer on the piston head and screwed it tight (I suppose if that's a weak point it'll be cheaper than replacing a whole gear set etc) and my aoe is pretty much spot on. Thank you all, I'm one step closer to getting her on the field again! Now to solder the new wires and rebuild for testing.

The piston head has a bit of metal that protrudes into the piston where the thread for the bolt is. If I add more shims to it, the bit with the thread no longer goes into the piston. At that point I'd be relying entirely on the bolt to keep the piston head on, and be creating a weak point.

So I managed to get the piston head off and put a couple of washers on it, but the aoe still isn't right and there's no more space for washers on the piston. Anyone know any other tricks I can use? Picture of my current aoe, is it bad enough that I HAVE to correct it?

After on all, it's me again with ANOTHER question that'll hopefully help me to get my Sig sorted. It's been 5 years since I started working on it proper, I NEED to get it done. So I have a 15 tooth piston that I've used a Dremel on to reduce the size of two of the teeth for aoe, AND I removed two teeth on the pickup end to short stroke it. I need to replace it as I can't get the piston head off as I glued the thread and the head of the screw is now pretty chewed up, and just wondered, as I'm correcting for aoe and short stroking anyway, would it matter how many teether the rack on a new piston has?

So I found a video on youtube that apparently shows you how to restore old o rings. Heat up some cooking oil, not too hot, and put the oring in for a few minutes, then leave to cool. And I swear I'm not pulling any legs, it worked. My piston/cylinder/nozzle now have a pretty perfect seal. Like, I can't believe it actually worked.

To get a new nozzle means taking the old one somewhere can can scan and machine an exact replica, or buying a second hand king arms Sig 556 to pinch the nozzle out of it. They're unique to the gun. It's a V3 gb that sits far enough back from the hop unit that it has a very long nozzle to work properly. I should be able to find a replacement oring somewhere.

So checking the air seal in my Sig 556 before I clean it all ready for a re-shim to a new motor, I discovered that the air nozzle is barely sealing. I've removed the nozzle oring and it's had it. However, I don't have anything accurate enough to measure the oring, and I don't know where could possibly stock an oring this small that I can pick up easily. Anyone know where I should be looking and what I should be looking for?

The listings for em all day yellow so 🤷‍♂️

Cheers guys. Ordered a tan bucking and omega nub

HOP RUBBER. Before you all start. I'm looking at getting a macron bucking and omega nub, and can't decide which bucking to go for. Which would be best for British weather, .28 bbs and about 350fps (on .2s).

Definitely. Red connector on red blade, black connector on black blade. I'll try it the other way round just in case it's a production fault

I hadn't thought using a multimeter. I've got to get some wire for my Sig anyway, so I might just replace it anyway. If the wire is shot, could it have damaged the motor when I tested it?

It seems to have been my tappet plate, and one of my gears had broken it's shaft and I'd lost a tooth on another gear (no idea how, it's practically brand new but warranty void due to flat hopping). Unfortunately, after putting in new gears the motor won't turn at all now. I pull the trigger and I can feel the motor kinda "click" and do nothing else, even if the motor is outside the gun. I did have some damage to a wire where the pistol grip caught it, but I covered it with electrical tape. Could a couple of the strands of wire being broken cut power to one of the wires? Or have I somehow shorted my motor completely?

Simple one that I'm hoping someone can tell me how to fix easily. My Ares mutant has an issue where bbs get stuck in the hop rubber feeding lips. The gun was firing fine, then suddenly it;ll maybe fire two rounds then get stuck and have to be stripped to remove the bb. I'm hoping its a hop issue and not my nozzle, but how likely is it to be an issue in my GB? Ok so just tested it after rebuilding the hop unit (again) and it jams instantly, but works fine if I turn it upside down. Now I'm really confused.

Probably was me, I'm STILL trying to get my KA Sig556 sorted, all I need now is a new motor and some wioring and it SHOULD (fingers crossed, wood touched, horseshoe in hand) be skirmishable. I have no idea what that is, and it sounds risky cuting the shaft down on a perfectly good motor. I'll keep it in mind as a backup idea though if I can't find anything cheaper that'll do the same as the infinity 30k

...is like trying to find a ceramic needle in a stack of wet hay. I've found the one I would idealy like in firesupport, Infinity 30k medium shaft, but it's nearly £70. Does anyone know of any other medium shaft motors, or how I could use a long or short shaft motor instead?

I can't fit any other hop unit in the mutant, it has it's own design, a little like the hop unit on an aug. I have heard of people using maple leaf bucking and nubs in a mutant by cutting and filing the hop arm to get an omega nub to fit. I might do that in the future, but for now I can get enough range on .25s, and now I know why .28s don't work, the hop is just realy sensitive.

Well the hop unit is proprietary to the rif, the one in that picture just shares the same hop arm but it's a different hop unit that screws into the outer barrel. I don't get why the bbs would jam or just splutter out if the hop arm isn't pushing down enough. Honestly it's like theres too much hop. I had the same issue with the stock bucking, so I think I've got the first too issues you mentioned. It's got a very small sweet spot and I've gone over that point and need to very finely adjust back. Or just leave it and stick with .25s.

You caan just about see the hoip arm in this photo, and it's like its got an omega nub as part of the hop arm. I've checked the hop with the barrel in, and when I turn the hop up I can see the rubber pushing down into the hop chamber beautifully. My issue is, when I try to hop .28s it's like the hop goes from not quite enouigh to too much with very little movement, and the bbs jam or just splutter out of the barrel. .25s I can get 40m, 50 if I counter the drop.

I used what I think is a guarder rubber. The nub is built in to my hop arm, and its similar to the omega nub from maple leaf. I flat hopped as I wanted to test and see if I could get more range and accuracy without spending more money as I have another spare rubber if this didnt work.

So, the other day I flat hopped my ares mutant, and on .25s I can get about 40 metres without lifting the barrel too much, 50 if I aim up. I put .28s in it, and obviously I need to up the amount of hop. Then they start jamming, double feeding and almost falling out of the barrel. Is this down to too much hop?

Not with the mutant. The stock tune screws into the body for you to put the battery in and get to the quick change spring.

Morning all. I was wondering if anyone with one of the longer mutants with the "solid" type stock could tell me what part I would need to attach a solid/crane stock to my mutant? I currently have the stock wwith the velcro strap and I'm looking to change it. Also, doers anyone know of a hop unit that would fit the mutant, as the one that comes stock is a little naff, it doesn't seem to do fine adjustment too well.

Should have a new asg sti combat master hi-capa, spare co2 mag, retention holster and molle adapter arriving just in time for this weekends skirmish.

Does anyone know if there are any power down rounds for the co2 Schofield? I really like the look of it, but 400+ FPS is way too much for me to use at my local sites. If there aren't any power down rounds, does anyone know how to make it less powerful?