LazzurusMan

Ok. I'm at my wit's end. Stock nozzle refitted, brand new super macron bucking with omega nub, barrel polished, piston, piston head, cylinder, cylinder head all checked for compression and it's all good. I'm still only getting 140 FPS on .2s, and using the paper test the paper still flies out of the magwell. The only thing I can think of is the stock nozzle not sealing with the hob bucking well enough, which means taking it all apart and fitting the new nozzle. Again. Anyone got any other theories?

Ah, if they recommend 11.1 then that's what I'll go for. Cheers.

Quick easy one (hopefully) for anyone that owns an ares l85a3. I've seen some places say to use 7.4v lipos, some say 11.1v. Which would be the better bet? I have two 7.4s and the shop has said I can swap them for 11.1s if I want, but suggests the 7.4v. However other shops, reviews etc say 11.1v. I just don't want to break my new toy 🤣

Ok, just been thrown a curve ball here. My nozzle doesn't go all the way back before coming back forwards. It looks like the tappet plate itself bends upwards towards the piston and doesn't go back all the way. It's almost like the tappet spring is too strong. Possibly a stupid question, but is the nozzle supposed to go back as far as the cylinder head?

Unfortunately the maple leaf bucking is all I have. I've also had no issues with them before (except for the shagged one, which probably happened when fitting it knowing my clumsy hands). I don't know the length of the ares nozzle as I don't have any calipers to measure with, but the replacement is listed as 21.4mm. it's the rocket double oring nozzle. I'll wack the original nozzle in and see what happens. It had perfect fps before I changed the nozzle, but the stock one is plastic and I wanted to eliminate that as a weakpoint.

Ok, so I put the new bucking in, and it wouldn't feed at all with the aftermarket nozzle I put in. (Didn't lose my range time though as I also bought a new areas l85a3 as an early birthday gift to me). Seeing as the new nozzle is only a millimeter or two longer, would that really stop it from feeding at all?

Picked this up today. Loving the blowback.

Oh it's tight against the gearbox. The amoeba mutants have a spring in the outer barrel that pushed the proprietary hop unit tight, then it's also held in place with a couple of hex bolts. I've gone through everything except putting a new maple leaf bucking in, so hopefully when I pick up a new super macron today it should be back up near 350. Might be a little over as the new nozzle, which has never been tested with a decent bucking, has orings and the stock one didn't. That'll be an easy fix If it is, I'll just rip the spring out and take a little more off it. Cheers everyone, hopefully I won't be posting I'm this thread again 🤣🤣

This is probably the culprit, and the other bucking I used to test is an old knackered guarder black, that everytime I tried to install would slide further up the barrel meaning the lips wouldn't meet the nozzle. Im going to do armaments today so I'll put it all back together, bring the rifle and my chroni and pick up a fresh bucking. That's if anyone else thinks I could lose 200 fps just from the nozzle not reaching the bucking?

Ok, so I just did the tissue/paper test. That came flying out when I fired it, so I'm losing all my compression at the nozzle/bucking seal. Now in theory the new nozzle, it being longer, should give a better seal. But I'm guessing it might be a little thinner. either that or my bucking lips are shagged.

Iring seems to be fine, I get good compression when I tested, after clearing out the vents. However, I did discover after putting it back together for another fps test that some shots I could see the air hit my duvet (I don't really have anywhere better to test) then I would hear the bb slowly roll down the barrel before falling out. Could the nozzle being too long be causing any kind of feeding issue that would result in this? Or perhaps it's a problem with the bucking? Could precocking be causing issues? All I did was move the magnet that the efcs uses into a different position based on what others have said to do to precock it.

So, when I installed the replacement gearbox shell, I rebuilt the whole thing. It should have been just as good as it was before the replacement. However, I've just taken it apart again to check compression, and my piston head is NOT making a good seal. I hold a finger over the nozzle and compress the piston, and I can hear air escaping past the piston head. Iring looks ok, it VERY well lubricated. I have no idea why it's doing this. Anyone got any ideas??

Rof is high 20s, I guess it could be slowing the BBS down as the piston draws back, even in semi. Same gearbox, just new. And it's the same FPS on both semi and auto. Could it be the nozzle is too long? I think it was a few mil longer.

So I recently put a new gearbox shell and nozzle in my Ares mutant. Did everything as I normally would, went to test it and I went from 345fps consistent to 140 and less. My only guesses are my spring somehow wasn't in properly (don't know how that'd happen or what it's catch on), the new nozzle is worse than the stock one, or as I've put it together something hasn't gone together right. I'm almost at the point of giving up, I've already put too much money into this damn thing after two gears broke after a few games (spread over a year and a half, so no warranty).

So a friend bought a second hand asg/kwa m93r the other day and has some issues he's asked me to look at. Issue one is the slide getting caught and not returning. It seems like sometimes theres not enough power to push the slide all the way back and it gets caught on the hammer as it returns, no idea why or how to fix this. Issue two is that the three round burst occasionally turns into full auto, again not something I've dealt with before (never had anything pistol wise that wasn't semi only). Could anyone help me to diagnose these issues?

So I lost one of my hi-capa mags a whgile back and the other one was leaking. I've decided I want to try and fix the leaky mag rather than have to buy a new one, but I can't figure out why it's leaking and I'd rather do that before I start pulling it apart. The co2 leaks from the gas router at the top, not the knocker or where the c02 sits. Would anyone be able to at least point me in the right direction as to why it's leaking and how to fix it? Please ignore/delete. I managed to find a video that explained my issue and how to fix it.

Looking to spray up a few parts of my Ares mutant to match my tan/dark earth sight, wondered if anyone knows which spray paint would be the best match?

It's a guarder sp120 spring. I ended up taking about a coil and a half off to get it to about 1.1 joules. bPerfromed beautifully on sunday, outraanging most of my team, including our dedicated sniper. But according to them I shouldn't work on airsoft guns I "Don't know how they work".

So me and my godfather got the two motors apart, and the magnets were cracked and fell apart. Anyone got any suggestions for the right motor for trigger response using 13.1 short stroked gears, a slightly cut down sp120 spring, Ares efcs and 11.1 lipos? Can't figure out if an shs hi torque would do it, or if I'd be better off with a 22+TPA motor.

Honestly, I'm gonna try the stock nozzle first as the one I bought is about .2mm longer, and seems to be causing some feeding issues too. Why can't manufaturers all agree on ONE length for the nozzle on a standard m4??

I changed the nozzle, cylinder head, piston, piston head, spring and short stroked, jumped from 340fps to about 360 on 2s. I need to shave off 10fps, would using the original non oring nozzle do it you think? The seal between cylinder head and nozzle was shocking, hence why I got the replacement parts. I didn't realise it would improve it that much.

Not after loud, I'm after efficiency. I'll play around with the motor height, might be a little low is what I'm worried about

Just want to know if this sounds ok regarding motor height. Also, I'm shocked at the trigger response and rof I'm getting with this stock g&g motor from a gen 1 cm16 raider pulling an sp120 spring 🤣 VID20220714210712.mp4

So this started as an intermittent issue, it now seems to be happening every few shots. The pistol fires, the slide goes back and then it gets caught on the hammer, which I'm guessing isn't locking back for some reason. Anyone know why?

Its from an old, probably nearly 10 years, cm16 raider, so it'll be low end. I did manage to fix the infinity end bell, so all I need to do now is somehow remove the pinions off the infinity and the ares motor, then swap the shafts over. IF I can find a way to do so without a special tool.