LazzurusMan

Cheers guys, couldnt decide which macron rubber to go with, or if I should flat hop it. I'll add the macron bucking to my growing shopping list

I'm looking at getting a maple leaf omega nub, and just wondered what people's opinion are on the best bucking to combine it with.

Not a bad idea. Next time I need to get the GB open (I hope it's a while) I plan to finish my "hair" trigger mod too. There's still a little play before the trigger trolly starts to move, and the trigger pull is very long on this thing. Just gotta put something in the back half of the trigger to get rid of the play, then I'll probably just glue a piece of plastic between the trigger contacts to reduce the pull. A new set of contacts would hopefully come with a stronger spring too for a snappier trigger.

Problem solved. I'd forgotten that at some point my trigger trolly had broken and I had to shave down a couple of bits to make it sit level. This meant that the trolly didn't sit right for the col to push it up enough to cut off properly. I just glued a thin piece of plastic to the trolly where the col should hit it, and problem solved.

New acetech brighter C. Got some tracer bbs and a 14mm cw-ccw adapter on order too so I can put it on my Ares mutant.

Only problem is my spur gear was rubbing on something until I added shims to that, and now the sector gear needs to be high to avoid the spur gear. I've got to open the gearbox again to try and sort the overspin issue, so I'll play around with the shims and see if I can get the sector gear lower before I spend even more money on this now frankly rediculously expensive gun.

Could it be my shimming? The sector gear could be too high? I could try adding a washer being the col to lift it up?

I think my fet has active breaking. I bought it years ago and can't quite remember if I got the gate nano ab or just the gate nano. I'll grab a new col and see how it goes

Yeah, I forgot how cut off levers work. However, after putting the gearbox back together and putting the motor and grip onto it for a quick test, semi is very unreliable. I'll get a few single shots out of it, then it'll be burst, then single, then burst. Would it be a worn cut off lever? Would my short stroking have done anything?

Been watching videos from the Airsoft tech on YouTube, and he says taking them off the release side causes tapet plate issues, and so does everything else I've read online. However, almost all of the forums posts I've found about it say to remove teeth from the piston aswell.

I did remove them from the start of the sector gear. I could have sworn the guide I was using told me to do it that way.

It moves freely, and the gears can even push the lever out of the way if I don't hold it in place, the problem is when there something stopping the lever from moving (which I'm guessing there will be when I put the fire selector parts back on) the gears can't move enough to release the piston. It's like I've managed to add precocking to the gun, but that wasn't my intention.

So, I did some work to my Sig a while back, and it STILL isn't firing right. I've taken it all apart again to make sure everything is sorted and reshimmed the gears, and as I was checking the aoe I realised my cutoff lever is preventing my sector gear from turning far enough to let the piston move forward. I've short stroked the sector gear by two teeth, could this be the reason why? Do I need to take one off the other end, or one off the piston to fix this issue? The picture below shows the point at which the lever stops the gears from moving and you can clearly see the sector gear is still engaged with the piston.

I've found the slide on my xdm sticks sometimes on return and vents all the gas. I've made sure it's all clean and lubed, and I've had more luck since, but it still feels like there's something causing resistance both when I rack the slide back, and on the return. If I gently return the slide it sticks with about a cm or two sticking over the rear of the gun. Has anyone else had this issue and knows how to fix it? I almost feel like the hammer is rubbing on something causing the sticking. Photo to show what I mean.

Thanks everyone. I didn't realise how much of a money drain Airsoft snipers are, and as I've already got a money drain (king arms Sig 556 that I'm having to hpa as parts aren't made anymore and I can't for the life of me figure out the air seal issue I have) I think I'll give sniping a miss until I can afford to buy either a gas rifle or an upgraded spring rifle.

Ok, what is a tdc? I think I'll definitely be going with the well vsr clone, maybe do a spring swap, dependant on what the FPS is when I get it.

I've always been told to avoid the cheaper snipers. Would a well vsr clone be any good? Patrolbase says they're around 400fps, so maybe a little less upgrading needed?

A friend has offered to sell me his unused, unupgraded TM L96 for £100, so I'm trying to figure out how much it'll cost me all together with the parts needed to get 500fps or near, and I can't for love nor money find parts ion stock ANYWHERE. Have airsoft pro stopped making them? Do Laylax still do parts? Also, if anyone can tell me what I should be upgrading most on a stock TM L96 that'd be great. So far I'm going off a Norvitsch video.

So I'm looking into a few upgrades on my new Ares Mutant, starting with a new motor, probably a u-30k or u-35k. Just wanted to quickly ask, will putting a faster motor in ruin anything else in the gun? I'm just trying to up the rps and trigger response a little and don't want to have to open the gearbox as my Sig556 is STILL not working properly and I don't want my new Ares to end up like that.

It's just another m4, but I like this one more than my cm16. Unfortunately due to covid I have no current Ukara, but luckily the two tone blue actually looks pretty good with the black XD

Ares Amoeba Mutant AMM7 My first ever 100% new rif.

Looking at picking up an area amm7, just wondered if anyone has one and can tell me the diameter of the stock tube. I'm trying to save money and not buy new batteries so if my old ones fit that be great.

Yeah, my shimming was perfect.......to the gearbox and other gears. Pinion to bevel shimming was awful. I've since re shimmed and she sounds a little better now, though still a little loud. I'll be posting a video in a separate thread today.

So, I've installed my gears, shimmed them, adjusted motor height and tested the whole thing without the piston and cylinder. It sounds horrible. I open her up, and this is what the bevel gear looks like. Is this shimmed too close to the motor? Motor height too high or low? Please don't tell me I've ruined it and need to buy another set of gears.