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LazzurusMan

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Everything posted by LazzurusMan

  1. This is probably the culprit, and the other bucking I used to test is an old knackered guarder black, that everytime I tried to install would slide further up the barrel meaning the lips wouldn't meet the nozzle. Im going to do armaments today so I'll put it all back together, bring the rifle and my chroni and pick up a fresh bucking. That's if anyone else thinks I could lose 200 fps just from the nozzle not reaching the bucking?
  2. Ok, so I just did the tissue/paper test. That came flying out when I fired it, so I'm losing all my compression at the nozzle/bucking seal. Now in theory the new nozzle, it being longer, should give a better seal. But I'm guessing it might be a little thinner. either that or my bucking lips are shagged.
  3. Iring seems to be fine, I get good compression when I tested, after clearing out the vents. However, I did discover after putting it back together for another fps test that some shots I could see the air hit my duvet (I don't really have anywhere better to test) then I would hear the bb slowly roll down the barrel before falling out. Could the nozzle being too long be causing any kind of feeding issue that would result in this? Or perhaps it's a problem with the bucking? Could precocking be causing issues? All I did was move the magnet that the efcs uses into a different position based on what others have said to do to precock it.
  4. So, when I installed the replacement gearbox shell, I rebuilt the whole thing. It should have been just as good as it was before the replacement. However, I've just taken it apart again to check compression, and my piston head is NOT making a good seal. I hold a finger over the nozzle and compress the piston, and I can hear air escaping past the piston head. Iring looks ok, it VERY well lubricated. I have no idea why it's doing this. Anyone got any ideas??
  5. Rof is high 20s, I guess it could be slowing the BBS down as the piston draws back, even in semi. Same gearbox, just new. And it's the same FPS on both semi and auto. Could it be the nozzle is too long? I think it was a few mil longer.
  6. So I recently put a new gearbox shell and nozzle in my Ares mutant. Did everything as I normally would, went to test it and I went from 345fps consistent to 140 and less. My only guesses are my spring somehow wasn't in properly (don't know how that'd happen or what it's catch on), the new nozzle is worse than the stock one, or as I've put it together something hasn't gone together right. I'm almost at the point of giving up, I've already put too much money into this damn thing after two gears broke after a few games (spread over a year and a half, so no warranty).
  7. So a friend bought a second hand asg/kwa m93r the other day and has some issues he's asked me to look at. Issue one is the slide getting caught and not returning. It seems like sometimes theres not enough power to push the slide all the way back and it gets caught on the hammer as it returns, no idea why or how to fix this. Issue two is that the three round burst occasionally turns into full auto, again not something I've dealt with before (never had anything pistol wise that wasn't semi only). Could anyone help me to diagnose these issues?
  8. So I lost one of my hi-capa mags a whgile back and the other one was leaking. I've decided I want to try and fix the leaky mag rather than have to buy a new one, but I can't figure out why it's leaking and I'd rather do that before I start pulling it apart. The co2 leaks from the gas router at the top, not the knocker or where the c02 sits. Would anyone be able to at least point me in the right direction as to why it's leaking and how to fix it? Please ignore/delete. I managed to find a video that explained my issue and how to fix it.
  9. Looking to spray up a few parts of my Ares mutant to match my tan/dark earth sight, wondered if anyone knows which spray paint would be the best match?
  10. It's a guarder sp120 spring. I ended up taking about a coil and a half off to get it to about 1.1 joules. bPerfromed beautifully on sunday, outraanging most of my team, including our dedicated sniper. But according to them I shouldn't work on airsoft guns I "Don't know how they work".
  11. So me and my godfather got the two motors apart, and the magnets were cracked and fell apart. Anyone got any suggestions for the right motor for trigger response using 13.1 short stroked gears, a slightly cut down sp120 spring, Ares efcs and 11.1 lipos? Can't figure out if an shs hi torque would do it, or if I'd be better off with a 22+TPA motor.
  12. Honestly, I'm gonna try the stock nozzle first as the one I bought is about .2mm longer, and seems to be causing some feeding issues too. Why can't manufaturers all agree on ONE length for the nozzle on a standard m4??
  13. I changed the nozzle, cylinder head, piston, piston head, spring and short stroked, jumped from 340fps to about 360 on 2s. I need to shave off 10fps, would using the original non oring nozzle do it you think? The seal between cylinder head and nozzle was shocking, hence why I got the replacement parts. I didn't realise it would improve it that much.
  14. Not after loud, I'm after efficiency. I'll play around with the motor height, might be a little low is what I'm worried about
  15. Just want to know if this sounds ok regarding motor height. Also, I'm shocked at the trigger response and rof I'm getting with this stock g&g motor from a gen 1 cm16 raider pulling an sp120 spring 🤣 VID20220714210712.mp4
  16. So this started as an intermittent issue, it now seems to be happening every few shots. The pistol fires, the slide goes back and then it gets caught on the hammer, which I'm guessing isn't locking back for some reason. Anyone know why?
  17. Its from an old, probably nearly 10 years, cm16 raider, so it'll be low end. I did manage to fix the infinity end bell, so all I need to do now is somehow remove the pinions off the infinity and the ares motor, then swap the shafts over. IF I can find a way to do so without a special tool.
  18. Unfortunately it seems the infinity can I have isn't compatible with the end bell off my slower motors, as they seem to screw down differently. But if a ball ache as the only reason I wanted to try this is to save money after the madness inside my stock Ares motor BROKE. As in, part of the magnet was stopping the armature from spinning. I have a stock g&g motor I can use for now, but something tells me it won't like to pull a 120 spring with 13.1 gears 🤣 First picture is the asg infinity can I wanted to use, you can see that but if metal that makes it a difficult one to reuse. The second picture is the stock Ares motor that you can see decided to break. I can't begin to explain why or how.
  19. Perfect, that might save me some cash so I can get my amoeba mutant working before the 24th!
  20. So, I have a knackered infinity 30k, a knackered stockares motor, and a stock G&G motor. Could I use the three to build something using the magnets from the infinity motor and the shaft etc from one of the stock motors?
  21. I'll give it a go with the flat hop first, also need to try and fix an issue with fire selector, like to go into full auto when it "should" be on semi. Wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't emptying a mag in about 5 seconds XD
  22. Macron, and whatever this barrel is. Think it's a lonex 6.03? I changed it years ago, but I can't remember what I bought. Just had a quick check, and it looks like the hop window is too small 😭 I can't see the whole contact patch coming through, so that's probably what's causing the inaccuracy. This is what the hop looks like if I replace the macron with a guarder flat hopped bucking. Seems to be a much more consistent looking contact. Sucks cause the bucking wasn't exactly cheap 🤣🤣
  23. Unfortunately I can't get the flash hider off. Don't know if it's just seized or if it's part of the outer barrel. Tbh, I've spent so long and so much trying to sort this bloody Sig out, and I've lost one of the fire selectors (stupid crappy screws!) That I'm tempted to use some of the upgraded bits and just upgrade/fix my Ares mutant. I'll sit and think on it for now, if I can find a fire selectors or two I'll probably keep sinking money into this bottomless pit 🤣
  24. Could possibly have been hitting the flash hider, but that would still mean they're not going straight as they leave the barrel. Hop etc was all straight when I took it out/apart, and running a cleaning rod through it came out clean. I was using g&g .28 bbs that a friend bought with his brand new TM ngrs sopmod, which fired fine from his which was way more accurate stock. I've attached a picture I got down the barrel with the hop pushed down, is that the right sort of shape for a maple leaf macron with omega nub?
  25. All .28. I just added some tape to stop barrel wobble, and semi auto accuracy is a little better, some shots still seem to go left and right though. It could be the barrel, I'll probably pickup a new tighter bore barrel once I've measured the length, though it is I think already a 6.03 tightbore.
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