LazzurusMan

I'm planning on putting a warhead base motor in it and switching from 11.1 to 7.4 lipos in the future. Hoping this will become a nicely upgraded backup in case something goes wrong with my tippman hpa or the double eagle gbb m4 a friend is selling me for 60 quid.

I re shimmed, and it's the stock motor. Think I've solved the issue, sensors were caked in grease, must have put too much on and it got thrown across the mosfet. Also crimped the motor connectors a little and it's not reading any motor issues either. Feel rather thick now 🤣

So, I had to replace the gears inside my specna ak74 edge 2.0, short stroked them by 2 teeth, and managed to get everything back into the gearbox perfectly fine (afaik). Plugged in the motor and battery, short burst then the mosfet beeped three times and shut off. Plugged it into my phone and apparently its not reading the sector gear, and seems to think my motor isn't Plugged in. Anyone worked with an aster v3 with short stroked gears able to give me any advice? As far as I remember there wasn't anything special on the stock gears for the aster to read, and I haven't done anything to the motor.

Sooooo it turns out my "hobby space" doesn't like winter. My specna arms ak has been in bits for the last few months whilst I tried to find time to start working on it and my brothers ares mutant, aaaaand the spring and spring guide are rusted. As in the spring is probably gonna need replacing (was gonna happen anyway as I'm installing short stroked gears) and the bearing on the spring guide are completely fused with rust. Does anyone have any suggestions how I could remove the rust, or better yet know where I can get a v3 quick change spring guide? Everything Ive found so far online seems to be for v2 or not for a quick change gearbox. I suppose thisll teach me to trust landlords/letting agents when they say theres no damp issues anywhere in a house.

This is why I love this forum, whilst sometimes people can be a little abrasive (I don't see why, it's only an cm16 with box mag, bipod, scope, pistol brace stock, "reflex" sight, laser and torch 😜) but when things need to be sorted, there's people there to help.

All the email tells me is jsuther.

A forum user sent me an email through the advert with another email in it for me to contact to buy this imaginary sig. I'll happily put the users name on here, or send it to an admin along with a screenshot of both the email I got from the forum, and the email I got from the guy "selling" the gun.

So I got an email from someone that saw my wanted post, gave me an email address for someone apparently selling a hpa sig556, only wanting cashapp or apple gift cards, sent me pictures from a hopup sale of a hpa sig556 from a while back that was sold. Who/where would I report the person that suggested I email this person to buy this "sig556"?

I can't find an exploded diagram of the gearbox, so I haven't got a clue what the part number would be. I'm gonna try and use 4 different screws and 4 nuts instead, as I don't think the plate itself holds anything in place that the 4 nuts wouldn't also hold if tightened correctly.

Sooooo I sold my amazing custom ares mutantnto my brother so I could switch to hpa and buy a tippman (god I love it) aaaaaaand he broke the motor grip. As in the screws ate the threads off the plate that holds it to the gearbox. He has since tried to loctite/super glue them back in, to no avail. Does anyone know where I can buy another of these plates? Or is it a case of taking it to a fabricator and paying well mote than its worth to have a new plate custom made and tapped with four new screws?

Ah, think I need to unscrew it and remove the thread tape I put on it then. I'll let the site know on Saturday that I had to screw it back on and see if they're happy to fill it. They might even give it a once over to check it. They do paintball too so I'd assume they'd know what they're doing.

Bottle was leaking yesterday, let it empty itself as I could see an oring had shifted in the top of the bottle. Unscrewed it, reseated the oring and then screwed it back on, but only tight enough that I can still unscrew it (it won't go any tighter). As in the whole top part of the bottle came off (in picture). Is this still safe to use? Should I just add some ptfe tape to help seal/tighten it? I have another bottle, but it's only 26ci and this is 48. I'd prefer to know I have enough air for the whole day this Saturday whilst I try out hpa for the first time.

Awesome. Think I'm gonna go with a zci barrel as they're pretty cheap, and I might need to get a new tank and line yet. We'll I almost certainly need a new line according to the seller, just hoping the tanks test date is good so I can save myself 40 quid.

Got a tippman m4 v1 on its way to me, I've already ordered the parts I need to build a tdc for it (thank you youtube) now I just need to order myself a new barrel and bucking (or so the internet says, apparently the stock bucking, barrel and hop are very inconsistent and innacurate). I have no idea what bore to go with, or what barrel would pair best with a ml super macaron (I use them in all my guns, really cba to r-hop when I know I can just buy these). I've heard that HPA have best volume, so a widebore is best for them. But then some people say a tightbore is still best for accuracy etc. Basically this is babies first hpa, and I want it to be as good as I can with as few little changes as possible. Please help.

90 odd quid for the warhead base, 114 plus for the t238.

Cheers everyone, looks like I'll be going for a 27.5k warhead base motor (cheaper than the t238).

Looking at upgrading my specna edge 2.0 ak, can't decide on an asg 30k infinity motor, or for another 10 quid I can get the warhead base brushless. I'll probably be pairing it with a 12.1 gearset short stroked by 2 teeth. Any opinions?

A friend is looking to get into gbbrs, and likes the look and price if the s&t m16. Are they any good? Can they be upgraded? It's either this or a tm akm, and overall the s&t will be nearly 200 quid cheaper.

Lost multiple teeth on the bevel gear where the motor hits it, as the the teeth fully sheered off, and a tooth on the spur gear. We're putting it back together with the stock gears and hoping it survives testing. Everything stock except the new gears and aster. Knowing my luck it'll be bad shimming on my part. We'll test it with stock gears and see what happens.

Fitted a gate aster and some prometheus 16.1 gears to a friend's bolt sd5 yesterday. The aster thinks that full auto is safe, goes into full auto fine just before it clicks into full auto. Second issue, we've destroyed the prometheus reinforced gears. As in multiple teeth have come off. The only thing I can think of is bad swimming, or a bad gear set. What are peoples thoughts?

So after a little use, and putting a little teflon tape on the slide catch pin, it works fine and is very snappy. Have however decided next pistol I buy with either be a TM or something with TM compatible parts!

My ares mutant was stripped down and rebuilt from the ground up by myself and I know EXACTLY what you mean. Every time I pull the trigger I fully expect to shoot bits of the piston or gears at people.

I'd say personally it's your motor. I use almost the same (not brands, but gear ratio etc) setup in my ares mutant, but I'm using an asg boost 30k, and hitting just short of 30rps. Also, I know nothing about the Krytac LVOA S, does it have a mosfet fitted?

Anyone know of an adjustable or speed trigger that will fit a gate aster V3? Looking to get one for my specna arms ak.

So today, after a LOT of filing to make it fit in my outer barrel, I put a new maple leaf hop+barrel set in my asg co2 combat master, with a guarder 150% recoil spring. Everything moved as it should, the slide is much snappier, and it fires. But when the slide locks back I have two issues, one bigger than the other. Issue one, sometimes when the slide locks back I cannot release the slide lock by pulling the slide back. The lock stays in the upright position, unless I shake the pistol as I do it. The second, and much bigger issue, is that more often than issue 1, when the slide locks back it pushes the slide lock out slightly, meaning I then have to push the pin out completely and put it back in before I can use it. Now this is t really the ideal thing to do every time I want to reload, so I wanted to ask if anyone else has had similar issues? I feel like it might be the new recoil spring being a bit too strong for issue 2, and issue 1 might be the little bit of metal that pushes the slide lock up when the magazine is empty might be getting stuck.