Cheeky vimto

I'm going to my local today to pick up another piston and put it back to how I had it just for this weekend. My last game where I was chrino'd was strange. My first shot came in at 374 then it fluctuated; 330,365,340,370,345,38,350. All those reading were off the stock G&G spring. I didn't think they were going to let me play but as the averages were dropping they allowed it. I want it to be as quick as I can make it. It's a hobby, and a part of that for me at least is pissing about with the toys I will short stroke it, it's just unfortunate this has happened 2 days before a planned game. My friend has a couple 7.4 lipo's so I might try one over the weekend. And I right in thinking it shouldn't increase ROF, just trigger response?

My local shop is about 20 minute drive away. They let me use there's but that's a ball ache driving there and back each time. I'm thinking m120 with 3 teeth off, the go Chrono.

Decided to get the same piston and go back to what I've been using. I'll also get a full metal rack and short stroke it next week. My problem is I don't have a Chrono

They say each tooth you take off takes about 15-20fps away. If I go for m120 if it worth trying? I don't want it to be still too high and I've messed up the gears.

Is there any other way, don't really want to be messing with the gears. Might just get a a couple Pistons tomorrow and go back to my nimh for now. I've got a game on Sunday and need this gun.

I could lose 50fps with short stroking?

That's the original reason I went with plastic. The guy at the shop advised against metal if I'm doing my own work

can you get different sized ports on a ported cylinder? Was thinking if I got a bigger ported cylinder is wont compress as much air and reduce the FPS? Here's my current cylinder;

I was under the impression if I had a MOSFET, good shim and AOE I'd get away with it. My piston is a SHS with a metal last tooth, it's not stock. I understand higher ROF means things wear out quicker but 50 shots is ridiculous, pre engagement has got to be the problem.

That's what I just read somewhere too. Is it possible to get under 350fps on a m120? I've read m120 can give out 400fps

Here my gun internals: 13:1 SHS gears Stock spring guide SHS red cylinder head SHS plastic piston with corrected AOE Hamsterfet SHS lonex A1 supreme motor Stock G&G spring (not sure what one, it was shooting around 350 at last skirmish) 8.4v nimh battery I reshimmed my gearbox a few weeks ago to stop it from screeching so much. It's been shooting fine and sounding better for the reshim too. So today my order of a 11.1v lipo arrived. I threw it in and had a few test fired, maybe 50 shots. Then it happened, the sound of the gears spinning in the gearbox and it's not firing. Could it of been a coincidence it went with the new battery? Is it possible with the new battery the gears are engaging before the piston has fully returned? I'm going to get a new one tomorrow but I don't want it last 2 minutes before failing.

Just made a slight cut at the bottom so it sits flush with the sights and should stop any tilting that might of happened from knocking it. When the paint dries I'll show you what I mean.

i've recently been looking at getting an amplifier for my m4. The cheapest I seen was about £9 delivered but it's so short I wondered if it'd actually amplify the sound, so I made my own. Total cost was £3 as I already had the paint. The sound is louder and you can hear a noticeable popping sound from the piston head hitting the cylinder head. Actually quiet impressed at how well it's turn out for the price.

Haha.. To be fair though, for some reason the pictures come out better on a higher angle.

I was in the Phillipines in February. It was Chinese New Years so they were EVERYWHERE. Same thing, Selfie sticks and peace signs!

You usually have to alter the lower mesh to fit goggles. Nothing too complicated; side cutters and glue is all you need.

Awe, fanxs!

It will do if you heard a whirl sound. If there's a bit of grinding on the motor teeth maybe it just needs adjusting on the motor height more or the gears aren't shimmed right and the bevel gear isn't central to the motor. You don't have to take it all apart again but it you keep shooting with grinding noise it might cost you a bit more. It should be easier to see where isn't going wrong if it's griding, just look for wear.

Nothing holds the motor in other than the handle cap you've taken off. Try getting some needle nose pliers, wiggle and pull. I suggest taking the whole thing apart. If it's making a 'whirl' sound, your gears may be spinning and just hitting the tip of your piston teeth, eventually destroying it.