Wo1f

Warrior assault systems leg rig.

I imagine it will definitely be over 350. The upgrades are great though. Just make sure you align the I key/fang thing dead centre or your shots will wander in one direction

I’d hold off on longbows and stick to geoffs/ asg accuracy international BB’s. I’ve heard mixed things (after I bought them sadly). Why did you go for a 220mm barrel? Make sure you watch your FPS. I run a 150mm crazyjet in mine. Ends at the threads on the barrel so I don’t need to run a suppressor if I don’t want to.

Longbow bb’s ready for some DMR testing

dangerous

I think one was called airsoftprices

Subject to change when my FRV belt gets here, but this is my ‘Heavy DMR’ loadout. I use it for when I set up shop in an overwatch position, but have some fire power to hold my ground when being overrun in MED. Certainly not a run and shoot loadout lol. WAS recon double stack m4 pouch 2x rifle/pistol pouches 2x FMA mp7 mag holders TMC mp7 holster WAS back panel

Looks great! I do think they look great with an Acog. Need to get a sling mount for the front of mine. Rainbow8 kindly emailed me and told me what I ordered isn’t in stock so I’m not best pleased about that.. time to source it from somewhere else..

Just ordered a guns modify CNC hop adjuster that’s going to go in the DMR. Hopefully it’s going to add a touch more consistency and adjustment.

I have mag envy

Offer is always there, mate! personally I don’t find the mag capacity bothering me and if anything it adds to the excitement as well as increasing your skill level. I’ve found using mine has made me a much better player. I think about my loadout as a whole. Where my mags are, how fast can I draw my pistol, where I’m putting my empty mag etc. With a good setup and the instincts that will come over time with using a low cap, you’ll be a much better player as a whole regardless of what gun you’re using. Are you behind cover? Check your shots. About to enter a building or general enemy area? Mag change. If your gun shoots further than most, use it as an advantage. Get out of their range and then fire on them. There’s nothing more satisfying than playing for hours and realising you haven’t actually ‘died’ yet, because you’ve been playing smart. As for the hpa mag... while it doesn’t really interest me, you could mag clamp a stanag high cap to an mws mag, get some tubing like what m249’s use and have the high cap feed into the mws mag with a bit of dremelling, and then tap the bottom of the mws mag for a hpa valve.

that cutter looks fine. i think what a lot of people do is tighten the cutter too much and crimp the pipe. if you get the new valves and don't want to have another crack at it, I'd happily do it for you, but you'd have to post them. Don't let it put you off. i was having a play with mine today and i can't put into words how awesome they are.

You’re not having the best of luck, are you.. eagle6 should have spare parts for your magazine. Are you using the little pipe cutter with the two small cutting disks? The metal is very soft so you need to tighten it just enough to grip, spin it a few times to score it and then tighten the tool up a fraction, before spinning it again. Where are you based?

Weather is looking half decent on Saturday so providing it’s not super windy I’m going to do some long range testing on my brother with the mws and a range finder. He doesn’t know it yet, but I’m sure he won’t mind . Might bring the scar H and gas m40a5 out for a comparison too

Lesson learned. Don’t buy anything off dumb Americans..

And that would be correct. Got an email from eBay saying ‘someone accessed the sellers account and advertised the boots without permission’. Which means the thick American tw@t didn’t realise he agreed to ship to the uk for that price. eBay have cancelled the order

They’re good for the price. I’m only buying them so I can use them for work and use my LOWA’s just for their intended purpose of airsoft

I can deal with the customs. I hate that parcelforce charged me a £12 fee to pay a £6 charge without my permission.

Is throwing an electric gun in the snow wise?

Also bought a pair. They’ll do to keep the wear off my LOWA’s

Fill the mags until the gas spits out. Most people don’t fill them enough

Always liked ICS stuff. Be interested to hear what you think about it after some use.

not exactly bought, but had it sent away to Enthuse Engineering to have a custom 3D printed nozzle and hop unit which takes VSR barrels and maple leaf rubbers instead of that $hite KWA design. Hopefully its now more than a £600 paperweight!

Very nice! Anyone got anymore pictures of their mws? If so, get ‘em up!

Maintenance: Now before i get into what i do, id like to point out that how i do it and what i use are not the only way of doing things. People use all sorts of different oils, grease and sprays to get the job done. As long as it's suitable for the job, all is well. Items: Wurth High performance dry chain lube (Teflon/ptfe spray) Wurth brake and chain cleaner Airsoft Engenuity cleaning rod Silicone oil paper towels Step 1: Remove the magazine and split the upper and lower by popping out the body pins. From there, remove the charging handle and bolt carrier group. Using the paper towel, wipe them down properly, including the channel on the underside of the charging handle. This is what mine looks like after one game day and a bit of testing. Step 2: With the moving parts cleaned, we need to move onto the upper receiver. There is no point cleaning the moving parts if the walls they're sliding against are still dirty, so wipe down the inner walls of the upper receiver as well as the grove that the charging handle runs in. Step 3: We're going to finish off the cleaning of the upper by cleaning the barrel. I use an Airsoft Engenuity Optirod because it holds cue tips at a slight angle instead of cutting little strips of tissue, but any will work just fine. I go in from the muzzle end and stop before the hop up so i don't disturb it or damage it in any way. Because i use propane, i don't get silicone oil or other crap all over the hop rubber. If you do, take a cue tip and gently push it inside and twist. you don't want to apply any sort of pressure because you're at risk of rotating the rubber ever so slightly or damaging it. Step 4: Moving on to the lower.. I have two processes that i do to the lower. One after every game, and one after every 5. The only difference is on the 5th clean i spray out the lower with brake/chain/carb cleaner. Because of how tight everything is packed in to the MWS trigger box its hard to completely clean it without removing it from the lower. with carb cleaner it will blast out all of the deposits and degrease the trigger mech completely. what will happen is the spray will run into the gaps and drip out of the trigger hole in the bottom of the lower. The spray evaporates in the air, so after about 30 seconds it will be bone dry, leaving behind a clear trigger box. For the daily clean, i just wipe down all visible surfaces with a cloth/ paper towel. In order to keep a reliable bolt lock, push the bolt release and clean the faces of the ZET plate when it lifts up. if you get crap between there, it can slow and not lock back reliably. Especially running green gas, which cycles the gun faster. Step 5: Everything is now clean, so we can start with the lube. There's lots of options out there but one thing that's important is this... SILICONE OIL IS NOT FOR METAL ON METAL PARTS. over time, silicone oil will make metal bind and is the exact opposite of what we want to do. Silicone oil is important, but only for sealing components. I use Wurth dry chain spray for 2 reasons. If it can lubricate and stand up to the temperatures of chain/sprocket contact on a 200mph motorbike, it will do just fine on our bolt moving 8" forward and back. The other reason is it isn't messy. it dries in the air and leaves a light film on the surface so it isn't going to get thrown around the inside of the gun. so give it a good spray and give it a few seconds to dry. Step 6: Back to the lower.. If you're using a spray like me, put your finger over the hop up entrance in the lower receiver and give the inside a quick spray with the lube. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY LUBE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE HOP RUBBER. If you're using a grease or oil, this is less of an issue (until you fire the gun and it throws it all in there anyway) Step 7: Spray your BCG and charging handle with lube. Pretty self explanatory so i didn't bother with a picture. What i do is hold the bolt by the nozzle with my thumb covering the underside of the nozzle. this stops any lube going into the nozzle chamber. Step 8: Last thing to do is lubricate the sealing parts with silicone oil. This step is only really needed if you use propane, as green gas should keep the sealing cup on the nozzle adequately lubed and i do this every 5 games. Pull the nozzle out and place a couple of drops of silicone oil between the nozzle and the BCG. On WE guns you can pull the nozzle out far enough to apple lube directly to the o ring, but you cant on an MWS without removing the nozzle, so this is as good as you can get. Like i said though, if you're using green gas, this shouldn't need to be done often. Step 9: Put it all back together because you're done!