Sewdhull

If you get a battery, a tagged 18650 could be your cheapest avenue. Nubattery.co.uk. They have many of the aforementioned

Here, https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-i5-mk1-teardown-(same-as-i3-i5-i7)-by-fraser/

The charging area unclips from the top does it not? Open the port

If there's reverse polarity it would likely be a series diode, it's a small load and it shouldn't fail even if the polarity was reversed. Does it show it's charging? The battery comes out on those doesn't it?

I think they just re oil them.

Without hop a BB will hit the ground after half a second unless you lob it. Velocity is lost fastest at higher values. 1.14J on a .2 falls to the ground after 100ft, with hop 165ft. A .3 will travel another 10ft hopped. The main advantage for hop and BB mass is the longer time with a small drop, a .2 dropping a foot after 60ft unhopped and nearly 135ft hopped. A .3 will get another 10ft. Also a heavier BB arrives at its target sooner past 60ft.

The ppl that run motors in tend to be car racers. They submerge the motors in water to do so, the bits come off in the water and it speeds things up and leaves everything shiny and clean.

Well...maybe the veins add rigidity to the erm...shaft

I was fiddling with my charger this morning, having owned it for maybe 10 years and I found it had a brushed motor power mode. You can set the voltage and the max amps, up to 5A. Useful I think for motor comparison and running in, if anyone does this. Do others have this setting? The option was in external function... What was interesting I thought was that the src high torque motor wouldn't start at 5A, but once helped ran at around 3A.

In Airsoft we have to accept that MOSFET means ETU however complicated or not that ETU might be. I assume anyone saying MOSFET in relation to Airsoft is referring to some circuit doing the switching instead of the switch contacts. I don't like it because for me a MOSFET is a transistor, the T standing for transistor, just another packaged 'chip'. Even the simplest ETU is more than just a transistor tho, I think the MOSFET, 2 resistors and a diode being the simplest.

The barrel in my Cyma can rotate a bit in the hop unit, which rotates the bucking. I'm with the check it's straight in the hop unit gang...

If you use a weaker spring it's likely that the piston won't whack the cylinder as hard making less sound giving you the impression it's less powerful than the brass barrel. Your brass barrel may not have been 6.03 even if it says it is. It sounds like all is working as you'd like so now's the time to play.

Hop compound is one thing, but there's contact patch shape, nub shape, the amount of time being hopped and the way the pressure is applied. Different materials behave differently too. Which is why it's worth copying others and also why different products work equally well. Yeah when I started Airsoft so many happy years ago there was little to choose from, buckings were available but so much was DIY mods of the stock stuff. Too much stuff now, if it all worked that would be fine I guess, but as you say it doesn't all fit together.

Blank firers have an extractor, firing pin etc. The barrel is cosmetic and or the casting is filled with steel bbs to prevent drilling the barrel out. The caliber is usually wrong and the barrel and receiver may not line up. 9mm blanks I think are an exception to the caliber thing. They are made of zinc castings, like Airsoft and equally poor quality. I'm sure you could clear the barrel etc Gbb aren't convertible.

Certainly compressing a spring and leaving it compressed can weaken it. I don't keep the mags full, but it depends on the mag. The wind up ones you can take the tension off the spring, the mid and low caps, along with gas mags are not going to suffer any harm empty, so I empty them. Magazine springs are different to a normal compression spring because they operate creating torsion and bending in different parts of the spring, rather than the torsion only in other compression springs and this can cause the wire to bend and stay bent reducing the length of the spring without altering the springiness. I can't recall any of my mag springs dying, its only been increased friction in the mag that has ruined them for me, a plastic issue... getting scratched etc.

I think law enforcement is fine with the ukara system, it allows those who have a good reason to have airsoft etc to buy have them. Buying second hand ignores the ukara system and may well become problematic in time. Politicians will champion a cause and currently there isn't one, but the legislation they produce is often out of step with the real world. There is weirdness when they are air weapons, even if they look just like known firearms. But air rifles look like guns, as do air pistols and always have. Banning airsoft isn't likely, we allow people to have all sorts of real firearms so banning the toys end of the market doesn't seem possible.

I have ordered a few things from AK2M4, nothing missing or faulty, good comms and delivery. I am in the UK. When something wasn't in stock, I have been offered a similar part at no additional cost, after asking first. When I have the choice, I order from here.

Yeah, i'd like that too, but most 'science' about airsoft completely misses the why. I'm not sure anyone really knows the process of imparting back spin in airsoft, other than the bb goes through an unequally sticky hole and spins towards the sticky bit. It's quite a tricky puzzle to solve. Friction on a material that deforms alot isn't as simple as otherwise. Honestly tho, it's probably unnecessary for our toys, it does however allow companies to market all sorts of stuff so we get the 'best' things.

I dunno that the contacts are magnetic, but if they are, that's a good shout

Simply bearings have all the o rings known to man. ( well the round ones) If you can measure it, the manual says its a 2mm x 18mm o ring, but it looks square in shape rather than round so you might need to resize it it you are going to use a round o ring. They have round, square and x cross sections. Take one out and measure it, find one with the same inner circumference measurement. With o rings its the squeeze that matters, so if the part is using 2mm thick o rings that's what you should go for although you can use a little more thickness on a part like that because it's static. Lube it on install to prevent the o ring snagging and deforming.

My suggestion is to use what others use in a similar environment to you. Temperature and humidity affect the bb to bucking interaction along with your hop set up at you need more hop effort to spin up heavier bbs. It's really complicated and by trial and error ppl have found out what works well.

use the croc clips touching the contacts and an elastic band to hold it on, a hair band works too.

Spork

In a general sense, yes ofcourse, in this thread and in relation to polymer or plastic, you can't be misled if you know what they are or don't.

Condensation would be my concern.