Davegolf

Hi Bernt! Welcome to MWS ownership!! All MWS have nigh on identical internal workings Stock circa 300 FPS on 134a / upto 330 on Green SixG Super Nub is great drop in range and accuracy upgrade Longer barrel will increase FPS, but not increase accuracy Floating valve alterations are needed to reliably and efficiently increase FPS Dont get too hung up on FPS, these MWS guns punch well above their weight! I dont see the need for more than 400 FPS on 0.2g, once you go higher youre increasing wear and efficency / consistency will suffer As for GBB pistols, if you want performance to match the MWS then it has to be Hi Capa

What forums are full of useless information and users!

Ive been staring at a computer too long today soz all

And the whole hop unit is different inside! I dont know why TM went backwards with a job soooooo well done on the MWS, those flexy stamped steel hop arms :facepalm:

Thanks most of the comments above compound what I was trying to portray. All the 'upgrade' parts in the world don't necessarily make a bad design good. Thats great to hear the AE hop unit allows use of a conventional GBB bucking, but if the alignment or hop application isn't right it still won't shoot well. Not saying it isn't cock on but a lot of upgrades fall short because of the latter. No there isn't anything stopping you being a cheat and using the MTR to shoot with but what does that gain you, other than justification of a previous claim, it's not like you're selling the AE product I was just excited by your statement and would love to see it in action!

Oh I don't doubt the potential of any gasgun, just I wasn't aware of any bolt in upgrades that actually work. Ive never found KWA to particularly accurate and rangey Steel targets are good to shoot, obvious audible hit. Google maps measured distance.

Errrrr really!! Please can you do a shooting video? Have a strange attraction to the Vector but I've always felt it a bit er useless range/accuracy wise and I don't play enough CQB to justify the outlay!

Re bolt carriers - the UAC aluminium one is nicely made and really speeds up the cycle. Much snappier and better in the cold. Its worth spending a little time with a file and cleaning up around the area the trigger reset hits the BCG.

How on earth did everyone gloss over the fact that THIS MAN GOT A FREAKIN VECTOR AT HIS WEDDING!?!!

I cut the lever down so it's flush with the top of the handguard, then wedge a tiny bit of butyl tape (like blutac but way better) behind it, the hop adjustment is then stiff and impossible to accidentally knock.

I know it's good to have cheap products but does annoy me that they can get away with ripping of Pencott materials 😕 Same the world over in this day and age tho.

It's hard to say, depends massively on how much shooting you do! Full auto actually uses less battery power to by the way Most sites have on site charging or at least a power source, you could always top yours up at lunch if you've been heavy on the trigger! Doesn't hurt to carry a second battery regardless.

Just stick to a healthy TM bucking

Yeh I realised my comment was retarded as it's clearly anodised aluminium so nice and light!

The BCG weight looks like a great idea, I mean I'm not into 'weight' but loving the 3 way rollers,should be slick!

Just wow! Where is the real @Wo1f that answer was too techie

Most likely dirt or dead bucking: clean out barrel, check bucking isn't contaminated and is clean, check the BBs aren't picking up dirt from inside the mags.

Going on your nuprol chart (which is good gas to use BTW) you want to maintain around 9 bar operating pressure.

WOWZA!

Oh yeh great workout for sure! i find the gun itself is quite well balanced, you need a sturdy comfy rig for the mags, they're the dead weight!

Yeh come on, nice box but where's the candy!?

My new platform for my new 'offensive' pistol build, been waiting all year to pull the trigger on this one

Echo

Exactly. If you completely remove the tube and the mag is fully topped of with gas (liquid) then there is a very large variation in FPS output due the larger extremes of pressure in the mag, as well as the increased potential of liquid gas vent if first shots are at an extreme angle (IE shooting up or down from a tower for example). The whole idea of the tube is to create a volume for gas. The original TM tubes do this to the extreme limiting the amount of gas storage available. By leaving some tube your having your cake and eating it - more gas capacity / shots per mag and good shot to shot consistency.

On the old mags the fill tube (MGG2-83) used to simply pull out of the fill valve (MGG2-84). I personally havnt had my hands on the new(?) mags, but looking at that image it does indeed look like they two parts unscrew from each other. Either way yes you want to remove the fill tube and cut it in half roughly, I go 10mm longer than the needle on the fill valve. This ensures theres plenty of room for gas rather than overly liquid. Its good practice to have a good look inside the mag and check there is no swarf or debris in there, blow it out, lube the seals with silicone oil and reassemble with some weak threadlock to the screws. Partially fill with good oiled gas and rotate the mags so the oil can settle into the seals etc.