theSwede

Many people replace their plastic TM slides with metal ones so you should be able to find a used plastic TM slide if you put out an wanttobuy ad in the classifieds.

Nice to hear! Thanks

Hi! Looking for some input. So I’m using a TM G18C for my next build. Usually I get a metal slide and a metal outer barrel. But this time I’m using a plastic/ carbonfiber slide for the first time. I haven’t decided on the outer barrel yet but would like to get one made of steel or aluminum. Has anyone tried this and experienced any issues? Grateful for any input.

Found a used TM G18C for a good price so decided to do a G18C build after the summer. Also found that there’s not many aftermarket slides left out there for this particular gun. But today this beauty landed from Japan after some minor hazzle with swedish customs. The Nineball ”Eckesachs” slide. Some kind of carbonfibre abs mixture with metal reinforcements. Superlight and very sexy. Can’t wait for autumn so I can get the rest of the parts and start the build.. Worth waiting for..

I suppose you’re using gg now? In that case which one? You could try using a more powerful kind of gg. I use ultrair 140 psi with good results. You could also try putting a thin shim ”above” the bbu to improve the gas seal. Sometimes it works a charm and sometimes everything turns crap. But the first thing I would do is to reinstall the original TM bbu and hopup and chrono it. Take it from there.

Did some quick googling and it seems TM GBBs uses the same buckings

English is not my native tounge so bare with me on this. But I’m going to try to give you an answer. The answer to your first question is no. The valve doesn’t remain open ”until the slide recoils”. But hopefully the gas vented will make the slide recoil. Make sense? The valveknocker will hit the valve and then ”relax” (getting pushed back by the valvespring) allowing the valve to close after each shot. How long the valve remains open depends on many different factors. Like hammerspring strength, valvespring strength and the preassure of the gas you’e using (psi). The slide recoiling is essential for the hammer reseting allowing another shot. Problems regarding the slide not cycling correctly might depend on a number of issues. Aswell as if your mag is venting all gas or lightstriking. My advice is to go on youtube and learn the basic function aswell to try your theories in real life just ”fiddling” with your gun as you did yourself when 12. Hope this answer is somewhat understandable. (also, chance is that I’m misunderstanding your question) anyways Good luck and cheers

My first build in ages. And yes, it’s a boring build. But I do love a clean, tacticool glock. Based on a TM G17 gen3. Upper: Guarder custom alu slide UAC Ultra lightweight BBU V.2 DP 135% nozzle return spring Guarder steel threaded outerbarrel 108,5mm Laylax powerbarrel 6.00mm AIP Steel recoil guide rod Lower: Guarder new gen frame Guarder steel slide lock and extended slide stop Guarder series number tag set GM stainless steel pins PTS Zev extended mag release Cowcow 140% hammer spring Cowcow Tactical G trigger TM magwell

Does it function normally with the stock recoil spring?

I would just fix the leaking mags. It’s easy enough. Usually it’s enough to squirt the leaking valve with siliconeoil and let the o-ring ”soak” for a while. I have no experience with the WE XDM but usually Co2 cause to much stress to nozzles

Easiest fix though is running it without the magwell as that seems to be the culprit. Or trying another magwell

Just be careful so yo don’t push the bbu down to ”low”. That will give you other problems. I know some people use duct tape for this. I use thin plastic. Anyway it should be worth a shot. It’s an easy mod

You could also get an Poseidon Icepick flute valve for your nozzle. Will help with your fps consistancy. Might give you better groupings… Adjustable sights on an airsoftpistol seems pretty pointless.

I’m also a bit confused by your question but I guess the answer would be… yes..?

I would say that the diameter will mainly affect fps. And the length of the barrel will affect your accuracy or at least your range. Although in this case the difference will probably be very small. I would save my money and stick with the Maple leaf barrel and hopup. Maybe try a ML crazy jet barrel. Might do something for you.

Im pretty sure the 17, 22 and 34 use the same frame with the same internals. Shouldnt be a problem just switching slides.

You could try placing a shim between the bbu and the slide. Making the nozzle come a bit further down. Its a longshot but I solved a similar problem on a glock that way. Might be worth a try so you can use your magbases.

Thanks!

Hello everyone! I’m a swede who’s decided to start building TMbased Glocks again. So here I am looking for tips and trix and sharing of my own experiences.

I built a few of these and different problems have arose. I wouldn’t change the nozzle unless absolutely neccecary. Guarder recoil springs comes in many different strengths. Like someone said before, start of with the original springs. Then you might have to try different comboes of recoil, hammer and nozzle returnsprings to find the sweetspot where everything runs just like you want it to. rainbow8.com is a good source to find the springs

The only downside with the TM G17 gen3 as I see it are the specs. Although running a G22 holster solves that problem. Wonderful pistol if you’re into upgrading and rebuilding. There’s a ton of aftermarket parts available.

Have you looked at the noozle return spring?