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steverebo

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Posts posted by steverebo

  1. 5 hours ago, Skara said:

    Do it right.

     

    Swap the nozzle for one that feeds and seals on the zci unit, then build your two barrels on those.

     

    Also be aware that those extra 7 centimetres of barrel will dramatically increase the muzzle energy, so your gun may end up being too hot.

    I can't seem to get the ZCI to feed reliably on the arp9 if at all.

     

    I have taken into consideration the jump in fps and have it tuned to 0.85 to 0.9j on my 128mm barrel which jumps to 1.6 to 1.7j on the 200mm barrel which is perfect for field use 

  2. I saw something on negaive airsofts video's that i thought was pure genius, my arp9 is my cqb gun but i like to use it outdoors as well so im getting another barrel and hop made up with a 200mm barrel for outdoors and keep the 128mm for cqb.

     

    I need a second hop unit for my arp9 but it's a fussy eater and will only feed reliably with the g&g rotary and not the ZCI rotary i have and I cannot find another g&g rotary in stock anywhere so I'm wondering if anyone either has knows anywhere that has some in stock or has a spare that I could purchase or if they know of any other hop units that feed reliably in an arp9

  3. 1 hour ago, SSPKali said:

    I would say that is a pretty damn fast set up! Are you running it on 7.4 or 11.1v?

     

    I am not sure changing the nozzle length will sort the feeding issues - more likely to drop the power due to bad seal on the rubber.

     

    If it is not feeding I would look at trying a delayer chip (if one isn’t fitted already) and maybe slowing down the ROF in the Perun (is that possible?) and maybe look at tappet plate tuning? 

     

    I'm running an 11.1v I think the I've already ordered the nozzle and I chose this length as when I checked the review of the gun it came with a 21mm nozzle stock but a 21.4mm nozzle was installed and the mag I am using feeds perfectly on my other setup witch is fairly similar.

     

    My concern was the amount of teeth short stroked combined with the m130 spring. My other gun is an arp9 with a 200mm barrel as well and when I worked on that gearbox I contemplated doing 4 teeth but thought better of it and only did 2 on the pickup and used a weaker spring like an m100/m110 to hit under cqb 1j limit but this gun is my outdoor gun so I wanted it just above 1j which it is but an m130 spring with 4 teeth removed seems a bit much to me 

  4. So I have purchases purchased a used e&c strike industries pdw it has had some work done to it by the previous owner and has 13:1 gears with 4 teeth short stroked 2 off the pickup 2 off the release with a 200mm zci inner barrel zci hop unit Maple leaf Mr hop and warhead 35k and perun v2 with an m130 spring all housed in a cnc gearbox I had a quick look inside and saw the anti reversal latch was a bit worn so I have ordered a replacement and it feed every other round on 3 round burst so I have ordered a 21mm nozzle as it currently has a 21.4mm.

     

    Is this setup ok or should I replace the gears and use a weaker spring?

  5. So I have always used .28 bb's but ran out while tuning my guns fps on .28 I was hitting 275 to 279 just Iver a joule when I put. 25 in I was getting 295 1.17 joule

     

    Is this normal as 1.17j is over the 1.14j limit I won't be using .25's with aeg on the field but the huge jump concerns me

  6. 38 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

    The main issue with short stroking is voluming, if you've got the gun volumed correctly then as long as the piston is clearing the front of the port then you're not gonna mess up the voluming from short stroking.

     

    If you're happy with that level on a longer barrel then you aint gonna have issues with shorter.

     

    As for pickup/release, i've always tend to go predominantly from pickup. The following paragraph is me trying (and probably failing) to explain my thinking:

     

    When its being released the tappet plate is under spring tension and takes time to close, and its not ideal for accuracy to be releasing the piston before then.

     

    If you only take from the pickup side then the tappet plate will be retracting earlier (relative to the piston) but releasing at the same time (as an un-modified sector) whereas if you take from the release side then the tappet plate will be closing later relative to the piston (ie less time between tappet closing and piston closing) and could mean it doesnt have time to close fully before the air starts coming. Needless to say for a snappier build this isn't ideal.

     

    Ofc main issue with taking from just the pickup is the sector might pick up the tappet before the piston, meaning there's no braking effect from the piston to slow the sector a tad before it engages the tappet. Although with a decently pokey motor odds are it wont be slowing that much on pickup anyway.

    I have tried just pickup previously and ran into timing issues with the tappet plate but when I took a  equal amount from both ends those issues disappeared and I've had some really nice results with accuracy and and a nice snappy semi auto and 3 round burst

  7. 8 hours ago, Lozart said:

     

    This is the one you want to use for CQB right? It's pretty much spot on 340FPS/1.08J. I'd leave it alone!

    My local cqb site has a limit of 330 fps with .20 so 1j or 295fps with .25 so I need to come down a bit but will be short stroking 4 teeth as this is solely a semi auto build which is why I wanted to know roughly what spring I'm at so I can take the roughly 60 fps I lose from the short stroking and add that with a spring upgrade to bring me between 320 and 330 on .20

  8. If only my arp9 had a quick change system lol

     

    I was hoping maybe I could work out roughly what it was and but the next 1 or 2 up.

     

    Never mind I guess I will hold off touching it till the wife goes away in a few weeks and then spend a day on it

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