RostokMcSpoons

Thanks Jim! Ooft, £19 though I'm paying for my idiocy

This is bad news, no-one seems to have them in stock I've still got the capture spring, but I was trying to remove the buffer tube to get the receiver split open, so pulled the pin all the way out. And when I took the gun back to the safe zone, I just left the pin floating around in the hard case rather than reinstalling it. I didn't think the pin would be able to exit the case. But somehow it did I've pinged Fire Support and HPA-UK in case they know what'll work as a replacement

A couple of things from Sunday's skirmish: 1) Update on the Not-an-Odin with the adapter: It worked fine! Although it didn't get as much use as expected, due to the bad weather in the morning, and the weird problem I had in the afternoon: my bolt wouldn't cycle fully. No idea what happened, but the upshot of trying to fix it was that I've lost my rear receiver pin... so... 2) Do I need a specific VFC HK416 rear body pin, or will any M4 pin do the trick?

Yes they do, which made me very happy to see your motors have a fan to take advantage of that

Maybe you'll get a pair of cheapo knock-offs to wear down the pub? It's certainly going to be interesting

Yes, I'd say it will, my DE (with 50deg) will hop 0.32g bbs at 1.17j to 60+m, so with some extra oomph I'm certain it'll reach 65m with the slightly harder rubber.

Well that's a bit concerning, I don't have the pinion puller (they cost money I don't want to spend), and really didn't want to get involved with anything more technical than swapping bits in and out. The classic army motor sounds absolutely fine as it is right now though.

I've been fiddling with the motor height of my JG Sig 552 and my Double Eagle M906C. I'm quite happy with the Sig, it's sounding better than before and has a reasonable rate of fire considering the dinky 7.4v I'm running out on. The DE is harder to make happy, I've tried two different motors and they both run very hot, thanks to the active braking.. the 11.1v battery perhaps shoving to much current in, and perhaps me not setting it correctly... So... Apart from "does it sound ok", are there any good hints and tips for getting it right? Presumably it's better to set it too low than too high. But it's there anything more scientific than those two things?

it's odd I can't find 31000 Classic Army motors to look at the spec sheet. ( Edit: I can find a product page, but not many specs : https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/NON-Retail-Package-Classic-Army-Speed-Torque-31K-Motor-Long-34144/ ) But another google turned up this list: 16 TPA / 31,000 RPM 18 TPA / 28,000 RPM 22 TPA / 25,000 RPM 28 TPA / 19,000 RPM So I'm thinking you're right, it must be a 16 TPA motor spinning at 31,000rpm that I've now got in there. Which I don't want - the 22 TPA is definitely what I should be after - more torque, traded for a little less speed (and heat?) ... so it's this one (as per your recommendation) isn't it? https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/xt-high-torque-motor-22tpa-long-fan?search=22tpa Bonus for having a fan that might keep it cool too! Problem is I shouldn't be spending actual money until I get a new contract, but luckily I won't be playing for another 3 weeks so I've got a bit of time.

Yeah there was a change in the rules so that once a medic got shot, instead of being able to respawn by going to smother zone, he'd lose his armband and ability to revive. My team managed to keep most of the medics alive throughout, while the other team lost theirs and eventually got overrun. Maybe 3 medics instead of 5 would have worked better, but if the plan was to have rounds lasting 45 minutes plus, then it worked fine

I just put it all back together and chrono tested the RoF, it's 18rps with the 11.1v. It's plenty snappy enough with the 7.4v for semi auto, but although I didn't test that on my chrono, I'd estimate it at about 12-14rps. I think the 31000 refers to TPA, turns per armature, and the higher number gives more torque and less rpm. But this is really my first foray into messing with motors so I'm at the bottom of the leaning curve! This time when I installed the motor I started with the adjustment screw far in, to the point the EFCU wouldn't let the gun fire, and then loosened it off until it sounded healthy. A bit more loosening might allow that really high RoF that seemed to cause trouble. The trade off of having the mechanical resistance is the heat getting generated. It still gets hot after not many shots

After yesterday's skirmish where the motor got very toasty thanks to a lot of burst-fire and semi-auto spamming, I thought I'd try swapping the motor out of my Scarab (which shoots at an impressive RoF, very smoothly), into my DE, to replace the famously 'ok-ish' Chaoli grey thing. Here's the motor I took from the Scarab, it's a Classic Army '31000' High Torque motor. Well, the swap went ahead easily enough in physical terms. At first I had the motor height set (I think) too high, so the motor wasn't running much faster than the Chaoli. But I lowered it out and the RoF increased quite impressively. It still got hot quite quickly. I also had problems with multi shots when in semi, and overrun in full-auto too. Is the 31000 TPA too much for my gnu? It's got an M105 spring in there and shoots at ~330fps with 0.20g, with some hop applied. I can try some further experimentation with the motor height, but I won't if that motor is just too much for it. Backing off to a 7.4v is definitely an option too (though currently I only have one which will fit in the PTS stock - and I'd rather keep that for my SIG)

That's a shame. Reviewing Mr Chewer's initial post, he's after a CO² gat anyway...?

Another day at Special Ops nr Olney/MK After the multi-gun debacle of last time, I went with 3 - the VFC HK416, the DE M906C (well, obviously) and the Classic Army Scarab Numbers today were much more the usual 50+, rather than the 25-30ish of last time. Still plenty of room to manoeuvre, and the chrono'ing didn't hold up proceedings at all. I tested the scarab on the range again, but my ammo supply for the day was 0.32s or 0.28s, and the Scarab clearly struggles to lift the 0.28s. The chrono read at 200fps when lifting those (again), so I think I'll try the usual ML + Omega combo to see if that'll get the lift without strangling each BB at birth Rather impressed to find another gentlemen had brought one of these rarities along too - he used his through the day (presumably with a lighter BB, or from closer range than I'd accept!). So, to combat with the usual two-gun combo. As we set off the heavens opened with a short thunderstorm. Enough to get everyone soaked, and for everyone with glasses or goggles to fog up. Including me. Even my ESS goggles couldn't cope with the 100% humidity and general wetness. The first game passed me by as I struggled to make out anything. I decided to strip the optics off the 416 I was trying to use, but gave up on that and went to the DE (thinking; if you can't see - throw lots of BBs in the right direction). This was a sensible choice, but I lost a lot of time, and it was a harbinger of the bitty (not in the good sense) day that I had. Luckily the sun came out for a bit, the downpour stopped and the fogging went away after a brief pause in play to give everyone a chance to sort themselves out. Long story short though, problems continued where basically I kept mislaying kit, I left my main bottle of BBs at the safe zone (800m away), eventually my new crane battery decided to run out of juice and I found I'd left my alternates back in the safe zone. Trying to swap back to the gas gun failed as the bolt decided to get locked up, and I couldn't get the gun apart enough to free it. I mislaid my face pro, I mislaid gloves, I had my DE gun buried under a pile of rental gats while I went off to get the batteries for it... I had the stocks on both guns loosen up at bad times (in spite of tightening them up the night before!) and on the way out the strap on my rucksack decided to disassemble itself. No way was I buying any lottery tickets. There was also a few salty cheat calls today, Carlos was having his hands full. I think most of the problem were the two prolonged rounds with medics, as the guys doing the attacking were seeing the same faces popup shortly after getting a hard-earned hit. I suspect I was one of those, as I had a very good session in the sniper tower (this time with the DE pinging super-accurate shots into the church) and racking up a lot of kills. (One thing I found today was my DE was set to burst mode. The motor got hot and the gun seemed to be not enjoying itself, so I switched to semi. That sniper tower session had me spamming a lot of fire, to the point my hand was getting overheated through my gloves... I had to let it cool down. A better motor, and perhaps a downgrade to a 7.4v battery could well be in order) I got hit a few times, but one of our attentive medics was near enough to get me back in the game within a minute or two each time. Must have been annoying to the attackers. Shame I missed much of our attack, because at that point my gun started to chug as the battery gave out. I was going to work hard on suppressing the tower and organising a rushing attack. In the end a bunch of people left early. I suspect they'll have some negative feedback to spread. Carlos did his best to tell everyone how he'd kept tabs on the hits / medic use, but that obviously didn't really convince. How do other sites use medics? (At Spec Ops, the 5 medics can run to a person, count out loud down from 5, the victim shouts "back in" and that's it. The medic can also 'drag' someone to cover) Final PITA is that when I attempted to fix my 416 I left my rear body pin in the gun box. I can't find it now Are body pins generic or do I have to order a specific VFC one?

The VFC Odin adapter has arrived! Decent bit of 3D printing... but does it work? Yes! Here are my initial impressions... Caveat 1 : My Odin is one of the cheapo knock-off versions that I bought for peanuts from the Classifieds. I used the cap off a bottle of glue to replace the missing crank handle... so it's not in the best nick! Caveat 2 : I don't have any experience using either the Not-an-Odin in combat, or on any other mags, so can't really compare to a proper setup with a real Odin and a more expensive adapter (i.e. Airtech) Initially I thought the adapter wasn't going to click into place and engage with the mag catch, but a little extra force did the job and it did. A little filing may be required. The VFC mag engages very easily into the adapter. Feeding the BB's in requires a bit of torque on the crank handle, I think 'slow and easy' is required otherwise my cheap components might break, but as the chap said, the VFC mag springs are strong. Anyway, I successfully filled a mag (and had some fun blasting them into the garden), so I'm happy. The adapter doesn't seem to be in the list on eBay yet... here's a link to his AK page https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223829128666 I expect the price will be around £16

Yup there's a lot to be said for that. I really enjoy my GBBR in part thanks to the reloads. On the flip side though, I've managed to get through most of my 4 high caps (360rd capacity) between bomb-ups plenty of times before, trigger-happy guy that I am ?. Only last Sunday I ended up having to go single shot to conserve the ammo in the last mag.

Yes actually a very good point. I think Luke (in whom we trust) at Negative Airsoft made the same point in one of his videos that we make much more noise crashing around than any rattling high caps... The enemy won't hear that. The Maraca Effect (c)(tm) is probably more about embarrassing yourself to your teammates ?

I didn't know special SIG pouches were a thing, but of course that makes sense. I specifically sought out polymer pouches that could hold anything (AUG / M14 / M4 etc) but the lugs make such a difference to the shape of the mag that I don't much like 'em.

I have thoughts about the stacking mags thang... feel free to totally ignore, but here we go... I have a G36 and a SIG with stackable mags. And in the past I've also used the clips to hold two AK mags together. They're pretty cool as an idea, but here's my take: 1) If you're using high caps, then you have a double set of Tactical Maraccas bouncing around in front of you. If you 'shock absorb' your gun as you move then arguably this is quieter than having the second mag (which should be absolutely brimmed to minimize noise) in your belt or chest rig... but I suspect much of the time it'll be the gun that's moving the most when you want to be quiet. Depends how 'ninja' you are as to whether this is any concern really! 2) A second (and maybe even third) mag on your gun adds weight. If you're lucky the mags don't weigh toooooo much, but add in the ~300 BBs and it's more you're carrying with your arms than letting the rig do the work. I've probably just had a flash-back to the AK there, because the naked gun was light, and the extra mag therefore made a really noticeable difference. 3) If you're thinking "Ah, you silly sausage, I always choose mid-caps" then you end up needing to store extra mags in a belt or chest rig, and those connecting lugs are a bit annoying as they can make getting the mags in and out of pouches rather tiresome. I have currently have just two high-caps for my G36, so for the moment I'll put up with the rattle and I'll use them connected together. They're quite light mags, and brand new so I don't want to start attacking them with a hacksaw But for my SIG where I currently have 4 mags, those lugs are off so I can get them in and out of my polymer pouches as easily as possible.

Congrats on your purchase! : Checks bank balance to see if commission has landed: I played with a 7.4v for a good while but eventually succumbed to temptation, enjoyed the higher RoF ever since. I'd agree it's not a necessity though. I changed the stock for a PTS EPS which takes crane batteries, as much so the battery chargers are less fiddly as for physical capacity (... You might want to buy or make a short extension lead in the short term, but it depends on the particular battery you end up with) I had no problems with the fire control unit, but the motor does get warm thanks the active braking kicking in, especially during semi spamming. I don't go for prolonged full auto, short bursts (but plenty of them!) Is my style. I run with Lonex flash mags, as they're the nicest high caps I've had. They aren't perfect, they sometimes unwind on insertion. Some careful skimming in the mag well would probably fix it, never quite got around to it... Maybe I'll do that tomorrow. Most of the other M4 mags I have are fine, just a Tippmann mid cap (polymer) and a Battleaxe high cap won't fit. As for the g36, you may not be aware but you can buy a replacement mag well that means it'll take M4 mags. You could then both share from a pool of m4 mags, it would make logistics a bit easier!

Hi there! Where do you play?

https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/specna-arms-sa-e12-edge-2-0-tm?pv=15527 This looks like a good alternative to the DE M906C at a decent price Or indeed the 416-a-like is at £305... https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/specna-arms-sa-h21-edge-2-0-airsoft-aeg-carbine-rifle

If this is totally a belt trinket, would not an Army Armament cheapo do the job? It'll probably still shoot for a couple of times, if required in extremis, but hasn't cost enough to worry about? The R31 is £80 (might be even cheaper elsewhere), looks like the real thing, is all metal, and errrrr.... that's it. Did that fulfill the brief? https://www.airsoftworld.net/army-armament-1911-series-gas-blowback-pistol-full-metal-black-r31-gbb-airsoft-pistol.html Or do you want a fancier looking 1911?

Weak springs: Yes, the stock one is a linear cheap thing that loses it's oomph fairly quickly - but it'll last a good few skirmishes. Changing the spring is very simple. Hop-up lever: The Omega nub does fit into the arm on my 906C, and I ran it perfectly successfully for a while. When I took it apart and put it back together I've got a weird situation where the gun started over-hoppping - basically with the Omega nub in place it seems it was applying more force on the contact patch than before. And it still does with the stock one in place too - I think this problem is down to me! I'm going to see if I can resolve this - a ZCI hop unit will probably get ordered when I'm gainfully employed again. But the gun is still shooting beautifully at the moment, so no rush. Chrono's at 330fps with 0.20's with hop set for 0.28's (yeah a stupid combination I know, but I just had a mag of 0.20's to hand when I was chrono'ing other stuff, and just did it quickly out of curiosity) Battery: "Not gonna lie" - the Falcon unit draining the battery has been a PITA as it killed a couple of batteries before I realised the gun was doing this. And another since, because I was forgetful. Luke at Negative Airsoft hated the Specna's Orion gearbox, not because of the design per se, but shitty QC. Unless you hear positive evidence they're better QC'd now, I wouldn't risk it. They make a lot of very nice looking guns though. The 416 design looks very cool (glances admiringly at my VFC '416), but all the chunky RIS rails do add quite a bit of weight. A polymer or metal hand-guard with M-LOK slots is noticeably lighter. Just something to be aware of.

One thing to try is adjusting how hard the motor pushes into the bevel gear. My SIG sounded a bit laboured, but setting the height in the pistol grip made it sound so much better with just a couple of turns on the adjuster screw.