RostokMcSpoons

I ordered the pin and a spare hop rubber from KIC They replied they're very busy at the moment so they might delay a little. Still, I'm very grateful to find a site that can supply the VFC pin rather than trusting another will fit!

I took advice I read somewhere, and removed the rubber gasket on my ammo can. The lid now locks down but is only a loose fit, so should let enough gas escape to prevent Bangy McBang-Face from making an appearance

I've got knackered old eyeballs and need varifocals. I found the price was much of a muchness between the two, and wasn't particularly happy with the prescription and/or quality of the lenses from either of them. Boots didn't do a perfect job either... so having been to all 3 in succession I was disappointed by them all, and my wallet got well and truly emptied every time. So they're all shit. Or my eyes are so bad I will always have to pay a fortune and get specs that don't work perfectly. (Probably the latter - I did recently go for a check for laser surgery... That'd be £8.5K and I'd still need specs for reading and using computers!)

Yeah I can't find the specs for the motor. Maybe it's written on the body of the thing itself, but it says '31000'. 'high torque / speed', and that's all I can remember without taking it out of the gun to check. It's an old, discontinued motor, judging by the few product pages I found for it out there. Anyway, the plan remains to buy an XT from ak2m4 and put the CA motor back in the scarab (where it runs cool on 11.1v), but it can work on in the DE as a backu, on 7.4v I've been burning through too much ammo on game days when I'm using the DE on full auto, so really i need the semi auto to work nicely, and a lower RoF isn't the end of world either!

I've recently bought a Titan 7.4v battery off the classifieds here, and trying that in the gun with the high speed motor in place was pretty good. Yeah, the RoF is 'sensible' rather than 'exciting', but the semi auto response is still good, and most importantly the motor stayed cool after a bit of semi and short burst spamming. If I don't get around to grabbing the 22tpa motor in time for the next skirmish, I'll run with this configuration.

That's very reasonable, I'll just do an order with the pin and a spare hop rubber then 😃

Thanks for that. I've built an order which includes the takedown (rear receiver) pin I need (just $5), but given there'll probably be a hefty p&p charge regardless of how big the package is, I might stick an extra mag in there too. I just have to wait for them to get back to me with a quote - how much did they charge you?

Good luck! Where did you get them from?

That's great thanks @TacticalWaifu So, feedback to the forum developer is: 1. Please add a link to the wishlist that is easily discoverable from the classifieds menu, or from the top level page 2. Please give an option to filter out completed listings (in fact best to default the filter to exclude, rather than leave them included), or a method to easily delete all completed listings from the wishlist. (I've got 6 pages of ads I'm stuck with forever at the moment) 3. Please improve the page layout for mobile portrait mode. And the landscape mode could do with a tweak too.

Simple question, on my phone (mobile view, in web developer parlance) is it possible to get to my Wishlisted items? I can't find a way 🤔😪

No I don't think you're missing anything, those were pretty much my thoughts when I saw it. I prefer the look of the real mp9 and would instinctively trust KWA more than Vorsk. But it does seem to have a nice rate of fire (as for the original), they've taken a fairly reliable design and allegedly improved it, and first impressions from YouTube videos are that it's good. So I have something of an interest in it, in spite of logic 😋 https://youtu.be/gKr7sdsPNLw

I got a reply from HPA-UK, where the tech has said that Strike or TM MWS pins will fit too.

Thanks Jim! Ooft, £19 though I'm paying for my idiocy

This is bad news, no-one seems to have them in stock I've still got the capture spring, but I was trying to remove the buffer tube to get the receiver split open, so pulled the pin all the way out. And when I took the gun back to the safe zone, I just left the pin floating around in the hard case rather than reinstalling it. I didn't think the pin would be able to exit the case. But somehow it did I've pinged Fire Support and HPA-UK in case they know what'll work as a replacement

A couple of things from Sunday's skirmish: 1) Update on the Not-an-Odin with the adapter: It worked fine! Although it didn't get as much use as expected, due to the bad weather in the morning, and the weird problem I had in the afternoon: my bolt wouldn't cycle fully. No idea what happened, but the upshot of trying to fix it was that I've lost my rear receiver pin... so... 2) Do I need a specific VFC HK416 rear body pin, or will any M4 pin do the trick?

Yes they do, which made me very happy to see your motors have a fan to take advantage of that

Maybe you'll get a pair of cheapo knock-offs to wear down the pub? It's certainly going to be interesting

Yes, I'd say it will, my DE (with 50deg) will hop 0.32g bbs at 1.17j to 60+m, so with some extra oomph I'm certain it'll reach 65m with the slightly harder rubber.

Well that's a bit concerning, I don't have the pinion puller (they cost money I don't want to spend), and really didn't want to get involved with anything more technical than swapping bits in and out. The classic army motor sounds absolutely fine as it is right now though.

I've been fiddling with the motor height of my JG Sig 552 and my Double Eagle M906C. I'm quite happy with the Sig, it's sounding better than before and has a reasonable rate of fire considering the dinky 7.4v I'm running out on. The DE is harder to make happy, I've tried two different motors and they both run very hot, thanks to the active braking.. the 11.1v battery perhaps shoving to much current in, and perhaps me not setting it correctly... So... Apart from "does it sound ok", are there any good hints and tips for getting it right? Presumably it's better to set it too low than too high. But it's there anything more scientific than those two things?

it's odd I can't find 31000 Classic Army motors to look at the spec sheet. ( Edit: I can find a product page, but not many specs : https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/NON-Retail-Package-Classic-Army-Speed-Torque-31K-Motor-Long-34144/ ) But another google turned up this list: 16 TPA / 31,000 RPM 18 TPA / 28,000 RPM 22 TPA / 25,000 RPM 28 TPA / 19,000 RPM So I'm thinking you're right, it must be a 16 TPA motor spinning at 31,000rpm that I've now got in there. Which I don't want - the 22 TPA is definitely what I should be after - more torque, traded for a little less speed (and heat?) ... so it's this one (as per your recommendation) isn't it? https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/xt-high-torque-motor-22tpa-long-fan?search=22tpa Bonus for having a fan that might keep it cool too! Problem is I shouldn't be spending actual money until I get a new contract, but luckily I won't be playing for another 3 weeks so I've got a bit of time.

Yeah there was a change in the rules so that once a medic got shot, instead of being able to respawn by going to smother zone, he'd lose his armband and ability to revive. My team managed to keep most of the medics alive throughout, while the other team lost theirs and eventually got overrun. Maybe 3 medics instead of 5 would have worked better, but if the plan was to have rounds lasting 45 minutes plus, then it worked fine

I just put it all back together and chrono tested the RoF, it's 18rps with the 11.1v. It's plenty snappy enough with the 7.4v for semi auto, but although I didn't test that on my chrono, I'd estimate it at about 12-14rps. I think the 31000 refers to TPA, turns per armature, and the higher number gives more torque and less rpm. But this is really my first foray into messing with motors so I'm at the bottom of the leaning curve! This time when I installed the motor I started with the adjustment screw far in, to the point the EFCU wouldn't let the gun fire, and then loosened it off until it sounded healthy. A bit more loosening might allow that really high RoF that seemed to cause trouble. The trade off of having the mechanical resistance is the heat getting generated. It still gets hot after not many shots

After yesterday's skirmish where the motor got very toasty thanks to a lot of burst-fire and semi-auto spamming, I thought I'd try swapping the motor out of my Scarab (which shoots at an impressive RoF, very smoothly), into my DE, to replace the famously 'ok-ish' Chaoli grey thing. Here's the motor I took from the Scarab, it's a Classic Army '31000' High Torque motor. Well, the swap went ahead easily enough in physical terms. At first I had the motor height set (I think) too high, so the motor wasn't running much faster than the Chaoli. But I lowered it out and the RoF increased quite impressively. It still got hot quite quickly. I also had problems with multi shots when in semi, and overrun in full-auto too. Is the 31000 TPA too much for my gnu? It's got an M105 spring in there and shoots at ~330fps with 0.20g, with some hop applied. I can try some further experimentation with the motor height, but I won't if that motor is just too much for it. Backing off to a 7.4v is definitely an option too (though currently I only have one which will fit in the PTS stock - and I'd rather keep that for my SIG)