SSPKali

Not tried one of those G&P rollers but I wouldn't put much stock in audio from mobile phone videos, having posted and re-watched the vids I posted up there ? there is a world of difference between human ears and phone mics

He can take a while to respond, but once he does it is sent out quick. Worth the wait.

So there is very little take up (due to much tighter tollerences) then a smooth, consistent pull until the break. No second wall or ramping up of tension as you near the break point. Still easy enough to half pull then release, but TBH in airsoft it is usually a quick, instinctive double tap, not a measured single shot at 1000m! Reset is shorter and crisper than the stock set up (which on mine was worn and pretty mushy!) But more of a 'thunk' than a 'click'. Can fire off 2 shots pretty quick, certainly easier than the worn stock trigger. If you are ever playing at a site near me let me know and you can have a play with it and see what you think.

Epic post incoming! So I have fitted all the WiiTech trigger group to my MWS. I purchased this RIF second hand and it had been well used (to be polite!) and I had to give it a good clean out and service the mags as the empty levers weren't moving due to dirt/sand in them! The trigger box was in a similar state but after a strip down, clean and lube up it wasn't too bad, certainly nothing to write home about but better than it had been. Spin forward a year and I purchased a WiiTech marksman sear and fitted that...only to find that it didn't work (2 light strikes rather than a crisp break ?) so I removed that, replaced the worn TM semi-sear and shimmed the sear, hammer and trigger pivots to eliminate some of the play and torsion binding that wasn't helping the trigger feel. Last month I splashed out £60 for a WiiTech hammer and hammer&sear spring kit from the great Fire-Support thinking that this might play nicer with the Marksman sear. I tried this with the Marksman sear and still had the same, dangerous, issues. So in a fit of crazyness I purchased a complete set of WiiTech trigger parts direct from the manufacturer, excluding the hammer and hammer&sear springs, but including a regular semi-sear. After 2 weeks and an extra £12 to ParcelFarce I had the parts in my hand. The material and finish quality is the same as the other parts; ie smooth, precision machining and black chemical finish. I fitted the parts after thoroughly cleaning the trigger box shell and the parts I was keeping in. I used some Graphite lock lubricant on the parts as I assembled them as it is meant to lubricate precision mechanisms and the "dry" formula won't attract dirt like oil or grease do. Top tip - wear gloves, it gets *everywhere* and don't lean too close when spraying it as it is a powerful jet and you will end up with a shiny face if not careful! With the parts fitted I tested it out of the receiver (sans trigger pin) and there was a smooth, crisp pull and no slop. Reset was positive and audible, it not quite as crisp as the let off point. Once I had it all reassembled I tested it and hit the only snag...with the AngryGun ambi selector semi was full auto too ?? I replaced it with the stock TM one and it worked fine, I think it wasn't allowing the disconnector to rise enough, I tried fettling it but gave up and stuck with the stock TM one. I shoot lefthanded but can still manipulate a right handed selector. Note self: Never buy AG stuff I have included a video below of a before and after video and one showing the trigger reset. I have also hosted the after vids on Instagram, search alex_random_76 In short, although it probably cost me £170 all in it is worth every penny. WiiTech trigger parts can go on the list with SixG parts, Hao Mk16 rail, RATech black NPAS and DynamicPrecision lightweight bolt that is titled "MWS upgrade parts that actually work and are worth spending money on" It isn't a long list ? 20201021_141414.mp4 20201021_150510.mp4 20201021_152138.mp4

That is this evening's job sorted then ?

Don't forget the lifetime replacement if it gets shot out / dropped / run over / eaten by the dog ??

It certainly helped, and the trigger worked ok but the edges of the sears were still worn...and I love chasing incremental improvements ?

I have a complete set of Wii Tech hardened steel trigger parts on their way, I have the hammer already and the material and finish is much better than the stock TM stuff. I will post details once I have it all fitted.

I tested mine on Nuprol Red at the weekend, about 13-15deg and the standard TM valve. I was getting 30-40fps over ASG Ultrair green gas. Ended up refitting the RA Tech NPAS and will run the ASG gas at the weekend and save the Red gas for <10degC days.

Yep, only difference is the length of the outer barrel and the stock.

A SixG brass nub would be for first suggestion, eliminate all squish from the nub. What durometer rubber are you running? Maybe worth trying a harder or softer one? I have never run anything over 0.36g so can't offer a definite answer sorry!

Update on WiiTech Marksman Sear debacle....you know the one where it light strikes the gas valve with the safety on or when you release the trigger to reset! ? I bit the bullet and purchased a Wii Tech MWS hammer and hammer spring set from FireSupport. I figured the old hammer was worn and not playing nice with the precision WiiTech sear. It turned up in the usual fast time and like the sear was really well machined and finished. It will be interesting to see how the polymer roller does as this apparently is kinder on the bolt. I fitted the hammer, sear and springs and took out all my previous shims to ensure a fair initial test. Guess what? It did it again ?‍♂️ Seems that the act of the trigger resetting in semi allows hammer to creep up the face of the sear and push the valve knocker 1/3 of the way out. A subsequent trigger pull fires it the remaining 2/3 and drops the FPS output. I took out the sear and fitted the original TM one, this time it was working fine. I shimmed the trigger pivot and sears again to remove play / torsion and re fitted it all. The reset was a bit mushy / indistinct but I think the trigger plate / disconnector springs are a bit worn...most importantly it is working as it should and safely! I have ordered a regular semi auto sear (and all the other trigger box parts!) from WiiTech HK and will let you know how I get on with these, I think I just got unlucky with the Marksman Sear or it is *really* picky! At the end of the day I just want a smooth pull and reset I can feel, not a super precision sniper trigger!

I am not sure what size screw is needed but if you measure with some calipers the hole and round up to the nearest whole mm you should be able to Google for it. Eg. If it is 2.78mm hole I would get some 3mm diameter Metric grub screws in a few lengths (6mm / 8mm / 10mm maybe?! Not seeing the original I am guestimating!) I would love to know this too! TBH the MWS trigger isn't that bad, just has feel unlike AEG switches ? I have found that stripping the trigger box and polishing the parts (and clearing out the grit and sand that the previous owner had filled it with!) helped a lot. Some 0.1mm shims (M4 and M6 size) to get rid of any excessive play / twist on parts can help but too many and it jams up...you need patience for that! I spent a previous life servicing and tuning MTB suspension so I love this sort of thing ? I have a Wii Tech hammer and spring on order as my trigger set would not play nice with the Wii Tech marksman sear (maybe due to worn parts?) so I will report on that once I have fitted it all. The Wii Tech parts are really well finished but replacing the entire trigger box contents is about $200 ?? TL;DR: Don't let the trigger put you off.

Probably just a Metric thread grub screw, easy to get a packet of them from Ebay or Amazon. Maybe throw a bottle of blue (mid strength) LocTite in the basket too!

AG fit and finish seems variable (I am being nice about this) At a minimum swap the piston head (AG one swells and jams up!) and put a dab of super glue on the end of the valve grub screw so if it does unscrew you won't accidentally fire t at someone! Mine has never lost adjustment...YMMV. I would go for the Dynamic Precision bolt and either the TM or DP internals (DP have better springs in the nozzle, probably easier to buy it as a whole kit)

Yep, I have a TM M4 and pistol speed loaders and they fill the mags fine, you just get huge thumb muscles ??

I have 6 but rarely run them all. In CQB type games I can use 2 - 2.5 in all. I often change mags in a lull in the fighting before they are empty just so I don't get caught out. Woodland games are a bit different, especially on windy days but if you know the limits of the platform it isn't too bad. If you are sensible and only shoot at what you can see / hit 35rds goes a long way.

I had a great day yesterday in CQB, big site but small teams so could do sneaky looping back manoeuvres and get the kills in. Managed to shoot through a 4" hole in a door and get a guy in the leg...while I was 7m behind the door, that'll teach him to try and sneak in the back! ? By the last game people were pretty knackered with all the stairs and such but spirits and game play were still top and fair on both sides. Reminded me why I took up this silly sport ? Although my MWS was great, carrying 6 GBBR mags (plus all my other gear) was a silly idea!

Just taken out the buffer spring and weight to check the buffer cap screw and add some blue LocTite to it and noticed the end cap that it holds on has a small locator hole on the underside. This looks designed to take some of the stress off the end cap and spread it through the buffer tube stock rail part. No pin or screw fitted (on my 2nd hand MWS) and the Eagle6 tear down video doesn't show it. Maybe a feature TM never used? Because on duster gas it wasn't an issue? I have tried a few screws I have kicking about but nothing that fits. Maybe a future product for SixG Gunsmithing?

TM MWSmMags back in stock at FireSupport

Take a full speedloader and small can of green gas out on the field with you ?

Probably due to play and uneven / offset spring tension causing binding. It is a really weird trigger set up that has lots of places for friction and uneven loading My fix for this was to strip and clean the trigger parts, note where they were burnished and sand them with fine grit wet&dry then rebuild with 0.1mm shims to remove as much play as possible while not causing it to bind. Takes a while to do but much smoother and consistent now. One thing to check is that you are not getting a light strike...The valve knocker isn't moving with the first stage?

Probably best to Google that one! Prices in the UK, when they have stock, all seem to be about the same.

MWS for sale on here! (Not mine)

Right, grab a cuppa as this is a long one with charts and graphs! So, having found that my current MWS set up was less than consistent on FPS I decided to play about with the parts I had to find the best (ie most consistent) set up available. Quick Notes: RA Black NPAS - Lose fit in TM nozzle, very lose fit in Angry Gun nozzle (probable source of inconsistency) Requires safety-pin to stop it rotating while using special tool to wind in or out. Hard to see in nozzle when adjusting. Angry Gun adjustable valve - Good fit in Angry Gun nozzle, was too large to fit in TM nozzle. Had a drop of superglue added to rear of grub screw to prevent it unscrewing and flying out the barrel! It was a good tight fit in the screw threads so unlikely. Easy to adjust with allen key, nozzle marked "+ more / - less" on the nozzle to aid adjustment RA Silver NPAS - Had been sanded around circumference to fit smoothly in TM nozzle, was a bit lose in Angry Gun. Easier to see when adjusting it, again it requires safety-pin to stop it rotating while using special tool to wind in or out. Things I did not change: Nuprol Green Gas / v2 MWS magazine, unmodified / 0.28g G&G BBs. Modify Tan Bucking / Laylax hop arm / Crazy Jet 250mm barrel. G&P highspeed buffer / SixG HSB / std recoil spring. Xcoretech X3200 Chrono The weather, sunny 22deg C. All tests conducted out of direct sunlight Dynamic Precision green nozzle cup (moved between test setups) Magazine given a 10s charge, left for 30mins. Given a 4s top-up and left for 5mins between tests What I changed: Initially I used the Dynamic Precision lightweight bolt for tests #1 and #2 Test 1: Angry Gun Nozzle and valve, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring. (GREY plot) Test 2: TM stock nozzle, RA Silver NPAS, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring. (ORANGE plot) Test 3: TM Stock bolt with RA Silver NPAS, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring. (RED plot) Test 4: Dynamic Precision bolt, Angry Gun nozzle, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring, RA Black NPAS (this was conducted a couple of days ago, and kicked off the investigation, otherwise all the same) (BLACK plot) Results: Have a look at the two charts, both have the same data, but the scatter graph has the best-fit line added to aid in looking for the most consistent set up. The setup #3 was the most consistent, but changing to the DP bolt(#2) gave almost the same consistency but slightly higher FPS (maybe more gas efficient?) The one outlier at 305fps spoilt it somewhat so maybe over 20-35rds it might be just as good as #3? The TM bolt, due to the extra weight, gave more recoil, but probably at the expense of gas efficiency. I feel this is an acceptable trade-off as the action was still pretty snappy (thanks in part to the SixG HSB) and full auto was still fast enough. The DP lightweight piston probably saves a little gas and can eke out a few more rounds from a magazine but it will likely be marginal and at the expense of recoil felt (if you want low recoil and high RPS....get an AEG!) Conclusions: The TM Nozzle with the modified RA Silver NPAS seems to be the most consistent, it is likely that the bolt (TM or DP) has little bearing on the outcome in terms of FPS consistency. Recoil and gas efficiency is where these make a difference. The TM Nozzle with the RA Black NPAS (built for the MWS system) is a loser fit and will likely have a wider variance, but not as bad as the larger internal-bore Angry Gun nozzle! (I would guess it would be around the 17-19fps spread...maybe one day I'll check!) So, if you use Angry Gun parts...use the whole thing and don't change out valves/NPAS. Or better yet, if other experiences are to go by, just stick to TM! If you are sticking with TM nozzles try the RA Tech Silver NPAS and spend 5mins with some fine wet&dry carefully sanding the external diameter until it drops in and moves freely. If you can find a Black on that is a suitable alternative...oh and in both cases carry a safety pin in your tool box to adjust it