SSPKali

Yep, one of the first things I checked. Just had the shed wired for power and light so good excuse to test it

So, an update: The "error flashes" were actually "11.1v battery" - totally user error. There were no lights in error mode, but I pressed and held the button to reset it anyway. This seemed to let it cycle a couple of times then nothing. I checked the gear box for jammed tappets / pistons off the rails / random shims - nothing jammed and all moving really smoothly. I rebuilt the gearbox without the cylinder / piston / spring or tappet just to check it span the gears on their own with zero resistance - exactly the same, couple of cycles then only a green LED when you pull the trigger. I am going to fire off an email to Gate EU as this MOSFET is under a year old and not even skirmished yet. Thanks for all the suggestions and lack of "obviously beyond help, sent it to me for a tenner" comments

Just changed it back to 16:1 gears, std motor and M100 spring....still doing the same. Even with the motor cage off the GB when I pull the trigger the motor might click once but that is it...wondering if the MOSFET is borked?!

Ok, I am a bit flummoxed. Having time on my hands I thought I would put some high speed gears and high torque motor into my AKS-74U and short stroke the piston to make it a snappy CQB gun. Before I started tinkering all I had done to it was shim, replace the nasty blue air nozzle and hard wire in a Gate NanoHard MOSFET. It was putting out about 335fps +/-2fps and 18rps with an 11.1v stick battery. Today the package from the great Peter at AK2M4 arrived so after lunch I stripped down the AK and started to fit the parts. The rack and sector gear were short stroked by 4 teeth (it has a very short barrel so no need for the volume) a Rocket M115 spring and the SHS High Torque motor fitted. Now for the weird stuff, initially it was putting out about 280fps....but after 10 shots this started to drop and ended up around 110fps! I opened the gearbox again and added 8mm spacer to the back of the spring as a stop gap measure to see how it effected the fps. Now it will only occasionally fire, the MOSFET is bitching about "too much current" When I pull the trigger the green led on the MOSFET comes on and then fades out again, no movement from the motor. I guess it is sensing the trigger contacts but then cutting the power once the Amps get above a certain level (and before the motor turns over at all!) Any ideas before I fit a new piston rack and re-fit all the old parts?!

Worth mentioning that if you want no fogging, face and ear protection and certified lens's the Dye i4 is worth every penny. My first airsoft purchase (as playing loads of CQB) and you can get them in camo / subdued colours if you are not a speedyboi 🤣 Only possible downside is needing to raise your optic a bit higher, depending on platform (MP5 amd AK are not an issue)

Yes, those are the ones.

yeah, not been doing much lately. With the dark nights and weather I have not been cycling to the office (on days I am in!) and runs are loooow on the list. Now my lower back issue has resolved its self (for now) I need to get back into some running in the evenings and some bodyweight / dumbbell exercise other times. Literally my Trevail 5kg plates every time I go into the shed:

I have been running Bolle Tracker II's for the last few years with FogStop (FaceBook) or ReVision antifog wipes. DeltaMike face pro is great and can be used with ear protection. I have Honeywell set, active protection / amplification and comms input....plus half the price and ACTUALLY WORK vs Earmor! EdgarBrothers stock them. Ear pro is a good idea because being shot in the ear really, really hurts and tinnitus is a bitch. Outdoors might not be an issue but a Mk5 going off in the 2m x 1m concrete cell you are in is another matter!

The outer barrel set you linked to seems to include the adaptor ring?! Might be worth emailing / calling Firesupport to check...they are really helpful.

Glad I could pass on some useful info

Adding the "silent fill" o-rings will limit the amount of gas you can get in the mag as it can't vent the air already in there. Top tip I learnt only the other day is to fill a mag in bursts. If you want a 6sec fill do it in 1sec bursts and wait a few seconds between fills. Oh, and Badabing is UK based so no 30deg Arizona heat helping the gas pressure 😁

Probably 1.5mm thick? Sturdy but doesn't weigh a tonne. Finish is painted rather than blued like E&L's....but hey, they are 2x the price. My Krinkov has a nasty beat up and rusty finish thanks to some sandpaper and water / orange acrylic wash so probably not a good example 🤣

I have had two CM045s and can confirm that the receivers are stamped sheet steel.

For the money current Cyma are really good value. I have had a couple of the CM045 (AKS-74U Krinkov) and NegativeAirsoft is impressed by the current Platinum M4 range. I have seen good, in depth, reviews of the Blue and HighSpeed versions of the MP5. Prices are between £150-250 so would leave you money for some extra mags, chest rig and batteries.

I have just done some work on my AEG and I had forgotten how horrible stripping and working on a M4 with v2 gearbox was! Now short stroked 3 teeth, new motor and M110 spring. Not going to open it again until it fails!

I would guess that might be because it is rebounding faster than the heavier TM bolt? The same buffer spring will accelerate it faster. I will be interested to see what they say. Adding a wrap of leccy tape around the tab on the part of the bolt release that the mag follower presses might help? I have a UAC lightweight bolt but haven't had issues, but I have only run it on Green and Red gas in +15degC temps.

The Hao stuff is amazing quality and built to proper tollerences rather than the "may fit, but then again who knows" that other manufacturers seem to use. Plus the time to develop, test and make these limited runs mean that the % of the costs that need recouping from each one is pretty high. If they could shift thousands of them the price would come down 😁 TBH it is just a toy gun and no one needs anything better than a CM16 but if you have the means why not get something that floats your boat?

I shoot a rifle left handed as my right eye sight is really bad, but I shoot pistol right handed / left eye. The worst part of right-handed / left eye is trying to set up your belt to manage both! No way I can get my pistol AND M4 mags AND bfg on the right, with pistol mags on the left and dump pouch....who knows where! Chest rigs and no side arm are the way forward for sure!

Agreed, the worst part of getting the license is navigating that hateful abortion of a website OFCOM have! Also, @Steveoceewell done for raising the illegality issue sensibly and not screaming "oFcOm pOlIcE wiLL rAiD yOu OMG!!!11!!111! tHyE wiLL BAN aIrSoFt bEcAuSe oF u!!11!!!' as is the wont of some people (mainly on FB, you know the guy!)

Unless you are using tonnes of paint they should be fine....no 1L tins of Hammerite brush-on! Some people tape off the SAFE - SEMI - AUTO to make it more readable after paint but I have never done that and as long as you only use a light coating of paint I have never had an issue with the function of safety / mag release / etc...

Measure the hole it fell out of and round up to the next whole number (Eg if it is a 3.4mm hole = M4 grub screw) 😁 Buy a bag of the correct sized ones from Ebay and pop a blob of thread lock on before fitting 👍

short RIS rail section and two wood screws 🤣

I love working on AKs but the v3 trigger and ARL are, as you say, a PITA 😡 I have built one up last summer with a Gate NanoHARD, improved sealing (air nozzle, o-ring, bucking and nub) and a Madbull barrel. Cracking little gun that with the weathered paint and wood looks pretty unassuming. I have just done a mod I saw in the wild a few years back, basically take a Scout light, remove the RIS mount and bolt directly through some holes you drill in the upper hand guard! Seems that lack of tactical fore end didn't stop the local guys trying to get all tacticool like the US and Brits they were working along side 😁

He says the WE one (silver) which with out some sanding is too large a diameter to work in a TM nozzle. The black TM one is a drop-in fit. I posted a loooong post on this a while back (last summer) where I tested various bolts, nozzles and NPAS for consistency.