Skara

If you can find them, La Sportiva Ultra Raptor II. I have the leather version and man, the most comfortable boots i have ever worn. Plus they're stupid light. Only downside is the price, they're not (too) cheap at €200ish.

Oh yes, by all means use it as a starter and feel free to bash it around! Unfortunately it's not a matter of IF, but a matter of WHEN it will break (just like everything in Airsoft tbf), so when it happens try and have some disposable cash available for something that can be upgraded down the road. Remember to ask around for advice, even to people on the field. This applies to guns and gear too!

The whole rifle. It's polymer but it's super heavy, threads are inverted (as said above), the receiver is proprietary so you cannot fit aftermarket gearbox shells (and in no time you wish you had bought a different gun). Pistol grip fucks the motor angle. God forbid you want to install some "octarms" parts, wildly off spec even for Ares stuff.. Internals are abysmal, zero air seal to begin with, gearbox is proprietary and poorly made (very thin at the front, where it usually cracks), bushings are made of aluminium (yes, aluminium, they last very little), compression set is bad, especially the piston, it loves to crack at the rear, gears aren't good and due to how the etu controls the cycle (via a magnet) you have very limited options for upgrades, ETU is trash tier, proprietary to the gearbox and has the tendency to fry itself plus if you set battery protection to 11.1v it won't recognise 7.4v batteries anymore, nozzle and tappet plate are bad, plate will probably snap the fin within 2 months of use. Hop rubber is paper thin, doesn't lift anything past a 0.2 and it will most likely rip apart within 3 mags. Sauce: i had two Ares M4s. Edit: I'm sorry, but it had to be done, probably if you asked before buying we could have warned you.

At the cost of sounding like a dickhead.. Who recommended you that piece of junk? Btw, the thread is 14mm CLOCKWISE, because Ares, so 99.99% of airsoft muzzle devices will NOT fit.

Another cause is how high/low the magazine sits relative to the hop unit and it's a combination of lower receiver, magazine retention latch and hop unit itself. In fact good hop units have adjustable feed tubes to compensate for this. In any case EPM1 mags seem to give more issues than benefits

two problems: a) y'all should give up on the "grenade kills the whole room" or mercy/knife kills altogether. b) whenever those rules are in play, there needs to be a ref/marshal INSIDE the room the pyro is thrown in, otherwise it's the wild west.

Tournament yesterday. 5 objectives, the first started off REALLY bad, i brought my thermal optic because the temperature was low enough for it to work, and it did, had no issues finding defenders "hidden" among vegetation. The bad part was the last defender, who took out 3 teammates, i spotted him on my thermal, shot him, saw him flinch through the optic, then after a full high cap dumped on his side, he turned and shot me.... Luckily i had two other teammates remaining who shot him so much he had to call the hit. This was the only instance, everyone else on the organisation side was very honest (or at least they appear as such), actual objectives were really cool and although we didn't complete everything at 100%, we had an awful lot of fun. Final leaderboard isn't out yet, but talking to the strongest team we appear to be just 100 points behind them, which is a very low number, it's either a 2nd place or a third in the worst case. Kit used: DSG speedy boy thing + thermal Mayflower chest rig Pentagon backpack Frv belt. This week we also have a 30h game and it's going to be hell (35km expected, probably more) and the weather forecast isn't the best...

- Invader Gear short sleeve combat shirt in a-tacs fg - 5KU (i know, it's shit) PT6 something AR stock adapter for my Cyma AK - Bit kit for my leatherman wave+ (not for Airsoft, it was on discount and couldn't let it go) Next will be a helikon 2 piece belt for work, so i can strap some pouches on it.

We're talking silly long barrels though, 400mm + Your average 360mm-and-below barreled AEG can take some short stroking. My 7" SSG is short stroked by 4 teeth and I'm pretty sure I can knock five more off without worrying in the slightest about running into voluming issues.

Varying levels of QC. Mostly depends on how much profit the brand wants on their BBs. I've seen it with a "local" brand, they were cheap and good at first, then lost the cheap part and now lost the good part as well, to the point I'd rather overpay for G&G bbs instead. A true shame that warhead decided to fuck UK users like this, after all they were a key part of development and marketing in general (Luke pushed them real hard before Solink/T238 took over)

Ugliest Ak ever. Lonex gearbox shell + Lonex motor cage Perun Hybrid + clicker Solink 35k Advanced motor (unibearing) 13:1 gearset short stroked by 4 on release Random SHS spring (low powered at 0.88J, but still has silly range) FPS compression parts Begadi Nebo hop unit Maple Leaf 70° Super Macaron Prometheus 6.05x247 brass inner barrel Oddly quiet, does 24 rps on a 7.4v and about 36 on a 11.1v Stock triangle buttstock is too long for my short arms so I'm considering heresy with a M4 buffer tube adapter, or maybe a zenitco style adjustable stock.

Does the sector gear properly activate the cut-off lever? Is there enough contact?

Sad day... The Lonex flash magazines i used almost every single game day and tournament since 2016 finally died.. Today i broke three out of the four survivors... Fixing them is not worth it so i ordered a box of 5, hopefully they'll last just as long. Games went well, 9 people on the field, fun was had, dsg sniping was on point and got to test an arm mounted map pouch before the upcoming 27h game in two weeks (spoiler alert: it's a useful torture device).

Worst case it's a reshim and slight modification to the pistol grip (or a new pistol grip altogether) to achieve a proper engagement angle.

Very odd.. Do you happen to have an amp meter you could plug to check the power consumption? My experience with 22tpa motors is limited to the good ol' ZCI one (bought from Pete when Brexit wasn't a thing) and it didn't pull more than 13 amps in full auto on a 7 tooth DSG. on 13:1s it pulled 12 amps and no sign of overheating even after full mags spammed in semi.

Nah, piston has no part in this. The nozzle resting position is set by the position of the sector gear after a shot, the position of the tappet cam, the dimensions and shape of the delayer if present and the shape of the tappet plate. All my guns have the nozzle fully forward when in their resting positions, others have it fully retracted, most guns have it somewhere in between.

Phone mics for some reason like to enhance high pitch noises, but overall it looks like it's a little too tight.

When shimming the sector gear you will need to take into account what components it interacts with: On one side you have the spur gear, on the other side you have the tappet plate and on top you have the piston rack. Spur gear interaction is easy, shim the sector low enough to have a tiny gap between the upper flat side of the spur and lower flat side of the sector. Rack is also easy, as most piston racks allow for plenty of movement anyway. Tappet plate is where it gets tricky. At first, have the gearbox with just the tappet plate installed, close it and check if the plate moves freely, if not the plate needs slight trimming. Then open the gearbox, install the shimmed sector gear and close again with the tappet plate. Tappet plate should be able to still move freely while the sector gear is in there, also try to rotate the sector gear as if it was actually cycling the piston and check for binding. Should there be rubbing, you will need to lower the sector gear. I recommend using 0.15mm shims along with 0.1/0.2s because you get an extra level of adjustment.

As a non native english speaker (more like I can read and write okay, but when I open my mouth I sound like a demented australopithecus), it has always puzzled me how easily y'all can fuck those up....

Just make sure you get the pinion/bevel meshing right, as most of the gear noise comes from those two.. Having good meshing also ensures that the energy transfer from the motor to the rest of the gearset is as smooth and less violent as possible. At the same time do not shim the sector gear too high in an attempt to get the most contact surface between teeth, it's a common mistake that leads to the tappet plate rubbing and binding against the sector and that is bad for air seal and in general tappet plate longevity.

13:1 for me. Any 22tpa motor can pull pretty silly springs without any issues, pulling 13:1s at UK powers won't strain them in any way possible unless you get a lemon motor, but if you're buying from @ak2m4I'm sure he'll provide excellent service should anything happen. For reference, at 0.99J a 22tpa + 13:1 setup powered by a 11.1v will produce around 30 rps and a VERY snappy semi, on 7.4v performance will be similar to a stock gun on 11.1 (so 20ish rps). 22tpa + 18:1 ratio is going to be painfully slow and it'll feel like you just wasted money. Also your X-ASR will be fine.. It's not the greatest electronic unit out there, but it is "free" (read already included with the gun) so use it and replace with a better ETU once it breaks.

Keep in mind that past a certain bb threshold those mags really take a toll on AEG nozzles. ALL of them, some brands more than others but it's still an issue.

I would avoid T238 motors, they have a rather high failure rate.. Go Solink or Warhead, these are the two with the less shit quality control of the bunch. A much more cost effective way of upgrading your AEG is to set a very definite goal first, then look at different ways to achieve said goal and choose accordingly. Swapping random parts without a precise plan often leads to waste of money and time.

Nope, it's only those three grub screws. Luckily it has anti rotation tabs which effectively lock it in place and prevent loosening.

I had the Core version (now it's completely different). Barrel not being aligned is pretty common, maybe one of the three handguard retaining grub screws is tighter/looser so it pushes the thing out of alignment. Regarding shimming, the one place where most of the noise comes from is the bevel and pinion area, they are also the weakest link in the chain so it's very important to get them right. There are multiple guides over the internet to shim those two components, I'll post the two that I found to give the most comprehensive information: