Rogerborg

Ahoy and welcome. Many of play a more... measured... game than stripey-socked speedsofters, you're in good company.

I'd suspect the nozzle-to-hop rubber seal. All we know so far is that it's (probably) a V2 box, we don't know the nozzle length, the hop unit, or the rubber that you're using. Maple Leafs have longer lips than some other rubbers, that might help, or you might need a longer nozzle, or it might very well be something entirely different. Airsoft, innit.

Gotta Bill those Materials.

... and modification.

Ah, that's the incidents that they posted on Facebook. Is it as simple as adding a washer?

Yup, you're absolutely fine, it's perfectly legal to own, and nobody will ever care or ask how you go it. Have you cleaned the barrel and hop rubber? You'll need to do that regularly anyway regardless of whether you pay someone to have a look at it. I can't recommend anyone because I wouldn't pay anyone to work on an M4. They're simple and generic, and I'd encourage you to get stuck in yourself. There are loads of how-to videos on YouTube covering splitting it (one bolt), getting the hop unit and barrel out, and taking out the hob nub and rubber to check for splits or wear. Worst case, if you need to replace the hop rubber, Maple Leaf Macaron or MR rubber (and Maple Lead omega nubs or knock off) work well in Specnas.

It's been really great the way that AIrsoftWorld have handled this, and I hope they don't get hung out to dry by G&G. However, my primary concern is owners, who are out £400 for a paperweight that they've been told not to use until-and-if a fix is rolled out, while the clock is running on their right to reject. And a gen 1 (or 2 or 3 or 4) fix for gen 1 problems is often pushed out by marketing rather than engineering, so I'd be hesitant to trust anything rolled out in haste now. Frankly, I'd hope to see a recall of all guns sold, and (at minimum) a retailer fix applied. Because if they send out new grips to owners, and they still fail, then it might become a "Well, you must have fitted it wrong" wrangle. The longer you hang onto it, the harder it'll be to get your money back. tl;dr - if I'd bought one, it would be on the way back for a refund, no reasons given. Which suck for retailers, but it sucks more for owners.

Dropped, or just failed in use? Either way, I hope G&G doesn't pull the Apple "You're just finger-blasting it wrong" card and hang the retailers out to dry. AirsoftWorld are handling it well, and I'd hate to see them get rinsed, but ultimately they are on the hook for what they've sold, not G&G.

Well, that strategy was more solid than the guns. Particularly disappointing as G&G were actually praised for their plastics, even on the basic Raiders. Good on AirsoftWorld for getting out ahead of it, and especially for keeping the Facebook post up: hopefully it's resolved to everybody's satisfaction.

You should bill that seller for doing the work for them. "I'm selling this at above new price because these don't exist yet" (literally exists).

MP7 mags are super-high-cap low-cap.

... basically a Mystery Box.

It's mostly been covered, but I'd emphasise that you need to check the rules at the sites where you intend to play. If you haven't purchased a gun yet, and if you intend to get something M4-ish, I'd always look for a quick-change spring as a feature, ideally one that doesn't require removing the gearbox from the gun. (some) Specna Arms and Lancer Tacticals make a good argument for themselves on this basis. It's always better to come out a bit lower and need to step 5 yards closer, than to come out over and be sent home. Some people swear by stock Toyko Marui guns putting out under 0.8J. Hang on, I'll show you what I meme.

Magazine management is also important. Make sure you only load 40 rounds, and every time you buy one, set fire to £30.

Many such example, I measured my EDGE 1 mags and found they were an outlier among my STANAGs. You can generally make mags fit and feed with some filing or shimming.

For the avoidance of doubt, that's the valve on the rear of the magazine near the top. And since nothing is working anyway, I'd go ahead and press that firmly in - the mag should vent all of its gas in a way that would normally make you swear like a wounded pirate. But you'll need to check that it's working.

True, but true of most hobby forums too. Any new wunderforum should also welcome retirees as well as starry eyed fantasists, as it's all content to the mill.

You're getting defensive for no reason. Anyway, congratulations on your Usenet prize.

The trolley is disengaging, which looks fine. It won't reset until the trigger returns, I think that's the problem you'll want to address. Sight unseen (or unfelt) I'm guessing that the trigger is rubbing slightly on the switch in a way that it wasn't doing before. V3 two part triggers can be a little fussy, I like to keep them well lubed, and airsoft parts often need a kiss with a file or some sandpaper. Worst case, you could try another trigger spring, or bend/unwind the end of the stock one to put more pressure on the trigger. It's also easy enough to wind a new trigger spring out of springier wire, if you have a bits box to dive into.

Yarp, the only ones I've had problem with were some 0.43g bios that I found after at least a year (maybe two) in an opened bag in the garage, that had started to craze slightly on the surface. I shot some at 2.3J to see what would happen and did get wild fliers and some fragments in the barrel, but that's an extreme example.

Now closing in on Double Eagle M9XX or Edge 2.0 prices for old tech. They work well, but I really couldn't justify the price for the features - I wouldn't buy an M4 without a QC spring now.

Pretty much. Like a stranger walking into a pub and saying "Hey new besties, this place sucks, come and help me build a rival wine bar next door. Why? Well, it'll be better because it'll be better." Cool story, good luck, I'll love you when you win.

The UK limits for an airgun to be classed as non-firearm airsoft gun are 2.5 Joules for single / semi guns, and 1.3 Joules for auto-capable guns. I'm sorry that we can't say anything with certainty, but every case of individual importation seems to be a little different, depending on where the RIFs (or parts) are spotted, and by who. We've seen everything from them sailing through, to being asked to fill in a declaration, to being asked for a UKARA number, to the police showing up at people's door long after the import in order to check on it. It's a complete lottery.

You generally want to aim for 60-70% of new price for a used airsoft gun in decent condition, if you can find one. Sellers will always ask more and claim that their shagged out bag of loose bolts is "basically new" or "just test fired once", while buyers are always looking for a bargain. If you're after a specific model, you can always stick an ad in the wanted section here - https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/category/17-guns-wanted/ - but you'll need to be very careful about scammers claiming to have just what you want, when all they have is a stolen stock image. Buying used is always a risk, and it's something I'd only encourage if you're willing to work on the gun yourself to remedy whatever it is that's prompted the owner to sell it. Buying in person and testing it first is a better idea, and it's worth asking around at your local site(s) to see what people have for sale. Clean the barrel, dial the hop in, and feed it the heaviest BBs that it will hop and that your wallet can stand (I tend to use 0.28g, other people go heavier), and you'll be competitive with anything else out there.

Ahoy and welcome. We'll see if anyone chimes in, but the great thing about airsoft is that it's a very welcoming hobby. It's absolutely fine to rent and show up alone, and super easy to get talking to people. Just ask anyone about their gun or the site and see if you can get them to shut up.