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Everything posted by Rogerborg
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While I'm not pooh-poohing any excuse to buy another RIF, why not give the Firehawk a bit of love? You can upgrade the motor without touching the gearbox, then there's a plethora of things you could do inside it: mosfet, thicker wiring, gears, short stroking.
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Good to know. You might be able to poke a CM.123/127 mag up inside the magwell and have it secure, that's why I measured to the detent. Sadly, you won't be able to use the extended "100" (more like 60) round mags, which is a pity as they cost about the same as the ~30 round metal ones and are a lot harder to lose.
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Hmm, sounds like OP's going to have to dust his gun for prints. Assuming they're not all just clones or compatible.
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Gas? The only gas Mac-11 I'm aware of is the HFC HG-203. No guarantees, mind. I can't find any HG-203 in magazines in stock in the UK within the limit of my attention span. You might have luck with EU or Far East sellers. TaiwanGun have them, but last I heard still aren't shipping to the UK. This may be the mag you're after though, just as an example. https://www.taiwangun.com/green-gas-co2-magazine/hg-203-green-gas-magazine-hfc
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Can you put an AK Stick Battery in a buffer tube?
Rogerborg replied to LzChase's topic in Electric Guns
Is who persuaded me to start using an Explosion Containment Pie Dish while charging. You're not my dad, you can't tell me what to do. I'm pretty cautious with anything lithium based that has been deep discharged, and more ready than usual to yeet them out the back door on the first recharge. And that applies to airsoft batteries, 18650s (cells or arrays), and any piece of old electronics that I find lying around and decide to bring back to life with whatever random charger happens to fit. I tend to spudge electronics or laptop arrays open so that I can keep an eye - and a temperature probing Mk 1 finger - on the cell or battery while charging. But if they recharge up once (at low amperage, after a little bump to get them started if necessary) without swelling or the magic smoke escaping, then I don't fret too much afterwards. Should I? To be clear, I agree that li-ion is overall a better technology in 2021. Just that li-po is still pretty good too if you don't abuse it with too much impact or current. And that everybody loves a good dramatic story about when it does very occasionally go wrong. -
No need to be coy. Well, kind of, it's like a moped or a fat girlfriend. But, yes, for a this-or-nothing backup, I would generally say CYMA. They're cheap because they make so many of them, not because they're bad.
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At the price that usable NV costs, I'd want the Thanos snap version.
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Can you put an AK Stick Battery in a buffer tube?
Rogerborg replied to LzChase's topic in Electric Guns
Eh, I think this is over-egged. I've brought both li-ion (18650s) and airsoft li-po cells back from nearly flat (<1V per cell) to usable. And worst case, and even though I'm super Scotch tight, the cost of an airsoft lipo is in the region of a bottle of BBs, so even I'm not that concerned. One way of viewing this is that squishy lipos show you when you need to hurl them downrange. Metal cased li-ion are tougher, but if they do pop, you have a nice little pocket rocket. -
Are there no urchins available? Freshly hot after being extracted from a chimney. CHEETARS FEER IT. I really, really, reeeeally hope that @Haloenjoys playing airsoft as much as he's enjoying buying the gear. If not, well, bargains ahoy in the classifieds.
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No problem, I have a passion for measuring things. It's not weird, it's eccentric.
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Seen, and cannot be unseen. You'd have to - have to - replace that gopping Frankenstock at a minimum. The rails are nice if you want to add tacticool, but as a woodland secondary, I'd plan for bareback nose-to-nose engagements. I'd hold out for a K.
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Good god, no, a Galaxy MP5K plastic-fantastic. Sadly hard to find now that the good word has got out. That absolute cunt fine fellow at Negative Airsoft bought up the last of the UK stock along with all the ZCI rotary hop units in Christendom. This is why I can't find another to dual-wield.
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I hope you buy your BB guns 4 less.
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I'm still shocked and stunned that a "decent charger" thinks that a storage charge is so low. I'd always been told 80% by real internets experts, but SkyRC reckon it's half of that.
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I don't bother myself given the cost vs benefit vs my time, but I've come round to being convinced that storing somewhere below maximum capacity is probably a good idea as there could be some chemical unpleasantness if you leave a lithium cell fully charged. However, I'm not even sure what we're looking at in terms of voltage, given that a typical charger will pump cells to 4.2V rather than the nominal 3.7V, and that voltage and capacity aren't a linear relationship. 70-80% of maximum charge would mean a cell voltage of something like 3.95 - 4.02V, but I doubt that's what a charger will set as a storage voltage (and it can only see the voltage and resistance, not the actual charge). I'll storage charge a 2S on my B6 and see what it settles down at. I've never done this before, I reckon I'll see something like 3.8V per cell / 7.6V, which would only be about 40% charge, but I'm all tingly to find out (or that could be bad earthing). [UPDATE] Yup, 3.8V per cell, or about 40% charge. I'm surprised it's that low, I used a lipo that hasn't been charged for many months, and it still had to discharge it down from 4.0V per cell.
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Bear in mind that BBs are made in the same country where multiple companies poisoned babies for profit by mixing melanin into baby formula. Given that the only criteria that the vast majority of purchasers will care about are cost vs flight consistency, I'm pretty sure I know which way they'll go on that.
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Some black and grey BBs have ferrous filings in them, as can be verified by dipping your grip in and coming out with dangling balls. A quick Duck-Duck-Go does reveal a fairly wide range of claimed densities for ABS and PLA, with ABS listed with a lower mean density, but a higher limit. it would be interesting to hear what the actual practical limits are from someone better qualified than a typical Wikipedia editard though.
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Can I assume that you binned off the Chinamesh and heroed it up a bit?
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Yup. Natively, 6mm of ABS is about 0.12g, and PLA ("bio") is 0.2g. Above that, there's got to be something else in there. True, but PLA will start to get sketchy over time, so there's also the consideration that you'll need to get through them, or bin them. Granted, it took 2 years for Geoff's 0.43g bios to start to break up on me, it's not a huge issue.
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Now scraping the bottom of the broken drum, but for a backup gun I'd be thinking rental favourites, e.g. CYMA - AK plus a couple of hi-caps, M4 for mag compatibility, MP5 because MP5 - or a JG G36, because you'll need it to work. Have you slummed it with an AAP-01 yet? I mean, all the cool kids are smoking them.
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M4 charging handle and “bolt carrier“ aka the hop up cover
Rogerborg replied to RonLancs's topic in Electric Guns
AK2M4 is the go-to for miscellaneous parts. If you mean the long spring that pulls the charging handle back forwards (which then pushes the mock bolt plate forwards), this should be it: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/misc-internal-parts/xt-charging-handle-spring If it's the spring that flips the dust cover itself, hmm. Some flip open, some flip closed, and I'm not sure which one this receiver spring set has: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/misc-internal-parts/ec-m4-receiver-spring-set To be honest, I've taken to just binning off those springs and the mock bolt plate itself, you don't actually need any of them. @ak2m4 is on here, or can be reached via his site, he's a very helpful fellow. -
I feel like a bit of a broken drum here but you don't need a secondary, and in woodland you'll rarely find a reason to use one (beyond "Want to"). I mean, assuming that your T10 shoots under your site limit for auto-guns, with the BB's that you intend to use (I'd suggest 0.28g+) which I did mention up-thread and I hope you've got an assurance from the seller on that. What I run alongside a DMR or sniper is a light plastic MP5K on a leg panel with a 500 round high-cap magazine. Strap on and forget it, it's a full size AEG gearbox in a close-to-pistol-size frame, and actually lighter than a pistol + mags for even a fraction of that ammo capacity. Full sustainable auto, close to 1J, it's a compelling combination. I wouldn't want to carry anything bulkier than that as a secondary, and there shouldn't be any need to with a T10 primary. Having a backup gun with you is a good idea, but it doesn't need to be anything special given that you'll ideally not be using it. For fun factor, gas blowback pistols are hard to beat, although I'd stress how little you'll likely use one in woodland at most sites. AAP-01, or Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa or G17 are common choices. As we're into Winterish weather, you could consider CO2 although I've never bothered because MP5K Master Race, and the risk of running too hot.
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Getting your hop spot on can be an exercise in tiny adjustments, and going back and forth to get the perfect pressure. That said, I find it easier to get heavier BBs dialled in and would agree that 0.28g should be your default choice until you find something that works better, and which is affordable depending on your budget and trigger happiniess. I run 0.28g in AEG primaries, 0.32g in a DMR (and should really be running heavier, but there's quite a jump in price to 0.36g), and 0.25g in an MP5K used as a DMR/sniper secondary which is generally used at shorter ranges. The only way to find out what your particular toys prefer is to try it and see.