Rogerborg

I'd just forget the factory shimming, and don't start looking for patterns that aren't there. You don't know whether the factory shimming was decent or not: the "indentured servant apprentice" labourer that fitted them might have been at the start or end of their 16 hour shift. Just start from scratch and shim based on the reality that you encounter. You'll generally want at least one shim on each side of each gear, even a 0.1mm, just to give the gear something smooth and lubed on which to rotate, but even that's mostly for ritual purposes.

Good choice. Best choice. You might (or might not) find that's at or beyond the limit of the stock hop and nub. I'm at 9.something with 0.43g, although it being airsoft that says nothing about what yours will be capable of. A "chub nub" is one of the popular (and cheap) upgrades, or just shim out the stock nub with whatever you have to hand if necessary. I think that will be spicy. I'm running Silverback APS Spring 13mm - 100 Newton Rapax SRS, SSG, VSR Steel Spring Tensioners Some combination of which gets me to 2.3J with proper hopping of 0.43g That said, you can always lop a coil off. Enjoy the airsoft video sniper experience.

He's built himself a Trigger's-Broom-01 ?

If you're going to be doing any electrical work, a multimeter is a must. It takes all the guesswork out of it.

If you can find a holster that can attach to molle (or are prepared to make it attach with paracord or cable ties or what-not) then I'd recommend a thigh panel as a compromise between belt and drop-leg. I find these ideal in both height and security for mounting, as you say, an SMG sized gat. Real-pretend world example (just add holster).

Never ceases to amaze me that sellers will demand a fantasy price with absolutely no details, and then cry about "time wasters" as though it's buyers' fault for not being able to read their minds and use remote x-ray vision on the internals.

Source "Trust the bro I trusted, bro."

True facts. On an AEG, I find that magnification is really for checking whether I'm actually shooting at a target, or just thrashing bush with my balls.

Ahoy and welcome back. I'm also making a resolution to stop letting mere real life get in the way of daft hedonistic LARPing next year.

The old Depot warehouse site was run via a "community sports charity" so avoided rates that way. Rent would have been at tenants-of-last-resort levels, which is the problem with airsoft sites - they'll always be kicked off site the instant a more lucrative use can be found, and then you can kiss goodbye to anything you've spent on build works.

That's a good point, you're essentially introducing a fuse into the circuit. The only real hazard I could see would be stalling the motor out and locking up the gearbox.

All correct, and multi-shot shotguns is a good point, although they're a sod to chrono anyway. However to answer @ArseBurgers420's question, if you're using it at an airsoft site rather than for plinking, you'll need to stick to site limits, as well as legal limits. If you're shooting at 1.4J (and I'm seeing up to 1.5J claimed for that CO2 pistol) then you'll be sodded off from almost all CQB sites, and if woodland sites let you use it at all, it will be with to DMR limits, e.g. a 20-30m MED and one-in-the-air or 2-second delay shooting. Or they may just sod it off as well because it's essentially impossible for marshals to spot if you're breaking those rules when you're using a pistol. Keep it restricted to 1J (however you're doing that) and you can play with it anywhere in the UK, including Northern Ireland. 1J is fine, and if it's properly hopped, it'll be sending BBs as far as any other 1J gun. If you're getting less then 45-50m out of it, that's an issue with BB weight (go heavier) or hop (adjust it, clean it),

There's no objectively right answer. I have great fun running 4x+, 2x, 1x, iron sights, and sights hacked out of pieces of EVA foam. Everything works, and whatever makes you smile the most is the best for you.

If in doubt, re-do it. You'll only get better with practice. I'd stick with 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead rosin flux cored solder. Brands can be a holy war, I use Stannol, but they've discontinued the 60/39/1 wire that I preferred, so sod em.

You could probably knock one up in your shed. Kydex is cheap, and really easy and forgiving to work with, just heat and form.