Rogerborg

Fat Bob's, I believe.

Doesn't matter, as it's not a defence. You could argue it's a "theatrical performance", but then why not argue that? I wouldn't shed a tear if Airsoft World came a cropper over it - they know exactly what they're doing, and the observable lack of enforcement will be inciting other retailers to follow suit. Better that we lose one retailer than many.

But if it had all the parts that it doesn't have, it would work perfectly.

The stock nimh batteries were always a joke, any sort of 7.4V lipo that you could squeeze in was instantly better. I believe the motors are also used in RC cars, but I never bothered uPgRaDiNg mine. In fact, it's currently in the Box of Shame awaiting re-assembly.

Oh, is this for garden use rather than skirmishing? The ASG Ruger is quiet, can be had for under £50, but comes in at 1.3J. You can verrrry carefully file down the hammer to reduce that if you want to skirmish it. If this is purely for slinging BBs at short ranges, you could also consider an AEP. Any of the CYMA AEPs will make more noise from the motor than the pop from the tiny cylinder.

Ahoy and welcome. Wait... are you telling each other the truth about how much the guns and gear costs? That's not how it's done! 🤯

As above, and if there's any sign of mould, dilute white vinegar spray.

Re-re-emphasised, unless your gun is already wired for a mosfet, you'll have to do a bit of soldering. Without a mosftet, the circuit is very simple, with the trigger just acting as a switch. With a mosfet, the power wires run from the mosfet to the motor, and you'll need to rewire the trigger tabs as signal wires to the mosfet, generally using thinner wiring. It's not complicated, just a few dabs of solder, but there's no avoiding it. And you'll have to open the gearbox to do it, unless you have a V3 where the trigger tabs are accessible from outside.

Well, neither can so many sellers. Who knew the "nurpol" brand was so popular?

Repeated for emphasis. With a V3 gearbox, the trigger tabs protrude outside, so you can just solder the trigger wire onto them. I fitted a Perun AB++ to a G36 V3 without opening it. You will have to do a bit of soldering though. The only zero-effort solution is to pay a tech.

Like an AAP-01? Like, an AAP-01, man. Actually the AAP-01C Shinobi. What does your AAP not do that you'd want it to do? Mine has a Maple Leaf rubber, and a [checks emails] Maple Leaf barrel as well, mostly just because I had an extra 1cm or so to play with after adding an adaptor and tracer unit (indoors) or loudener (outdoors). It's not laser beam consistent, but it rarely produces a wild shot. Given the fixed slide, a DIY TDC mod would be my next port of call: just drill, measure - oops - just measure, measure, drill, tap, and grub screw.

I mean, if they actually stand behind a warranty, and keep parts in stock, and have techs who can fix them, I can see where the markup is. Iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiif.

I mean, that's a good reason to not play at a site. But then I'm surprised that the sites in question are apparently wanting a bolt-gun to come in at under 1.88J ("450fps") to begin with. Wait, unless... are these CQB sites? 🤔

I believe we're talking about the Ares DSR-1, which is a bolt-and-gas gun. That's a peculiar one, it'd be very much down to individual sites how they'd class that, whether it's bolt (as it has one) or DMR (because the bolt pull will be super-light - I've seen gas "bolt" guns where the bolt pull is a one-finger operation). Either way, I'd be thinking in Joules, not (0.2g) FPS, given that I have no idea how much a long barrelled gas gun would Joule creep when running heavier BBs. What gas are you running it with? Have you tried lower pressure gas?