Cybergun Colt M4 blast blue fox info required

[DRaZZ]

Hi guys I'm new to the forums and also to airsoft. I went out and spent 500 quid on guns and attachments etc but my rifle, the blue fox, comes with no info in the box and I'm struggling to find info on the net.

 I would like to know if I can swap the ni mh battery for lipo batteries?

Also does anyone know what spring is in there? Just says the gun has 1J power and 330fps.

I want to upgrade the fps for home use, if I install an m130 or even an m150 spring into this rifle, will this wreck the gun quickly in any specific way?

The gun has a tightbore 6.03 barrel as stock and a v2 gearbox. I plan to upgrade the piston and barrel for higher end ones and also plan to swap out parts to ensure anywhere I'm leaking air is dealt with as it's all metal construction seems pretty solid. It seems like a decent chassis but I'm sure it will be full of mediocre parts as its a 220 quid rifle. I don't mind spending a couple of hundred to turn it into a more reliable gun though as I really like its bones! Sorry for all the questions and long thread but as i said I'm new and despite reading a lot on aegs themselves, I can't find much info on the gun itself!

Thanks!

PS... The reason for wanting the higher power spring and increased fps is SOLELY for home, outdoor, longer range target practice. The colt m4 has quick change spring system, meaning I can easily switch back to lower spring for games.

I simply want to be able to fire a heavier bb, at decent range for target shooting for my own enjoyment. I'm not some moron who wants to hurt anyone.

Edited February 6, 2023 by DRaZZ
Missed important information!

[Asomodai]

1 hour ago, DRaZZ said:

 

PS... The reason for wanting the higher power spring and increased fps is SOLELY for home, outdoor, longer range target practice. The colt m4 has quick change spring system, meaning I can easily switch back to lower spring for games.

I simply want to be able to fire a heavier bb, at decent range for target shooting for my own enjoyment. I'm not some moron who wants to hurt anyone.

 

Unless you convert the rifle to single shot only before installing the heavier spring, Then you will essentially have a section 5 firearm which is illegal. 

[Nick G]

If you want more range then concentrate on the hop . A decent rubber and nub will allow you to lift heavier BB's and increase effective range. As above, going stronger on the spring runs the risk of taking the power level over the 1.3 joule UK limit for a gun capable of fully auto fire . At that stage it becomes a firearm , and if a neighbour should report you for having a gun in your garen you could potentially be done for a firearms offence,  If you do want to increase power then get yourself a chrono first so that you can be sure you are keeping it legal.

 

 

[Rogerborg]

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

 I would like to know if I can swap the ni mh battery for lipo batteries?

 

Sure. 7.4V for reliability, that will generally perform as well as the 9.6V nimh that yours came with. You can try 11.1V to increase maximum ROF and semi-auto response at the risk of getting double-firing in semi, plus more wear on the components.  I wouldn't sink any more money into nimh, and cheap chargers are the falsest of economies. We like the SkyRC range, and the S65 will do anything that you need.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

Also does anyone know what spring is in there? Just says the gun has 1J power and 330fps.

 

M100 or thereabouts, but everything in airsoft is approximate.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

I want to upgrade the fps for home use, if I install an m130 or even an m150 spring into this rifle, will this wreck the gun quickly in any specific way?

 

It'll increase wear on the gears and piston rack. Yours seems to have a metal (I won't say steel) rack so go for it.  Everything is replaceable if it does break.  Your stock motor might start to struggle as you go heavier, you can then upgrade that, run it on 11.1V, or live with it.

 

As noted, if it becomes capable of shooting any BB at over 1.3J on full auto then legally speaking it ceases to be an airsoft gun and becomes a Section 5 prohibited firearm.  If it's only in this configuration on your property then that's a tiny, tiny risk, but it's not non-zero.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

The gun has a tightbore 6.03 barrel as stock

 

Tight-ish.  ZCI barrels offer decent value for money, and I've had luck with AOLS. As with everything in airsoft, changing a component may not result in an "upgrade" no matter how much you spend on it.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

and a v2 gearbox.

 

As an FYI, that refers to the style, i.e. V2 is typically used in M4/M16s (and MP5s other than the MP5K). And there's no real standard, so one V2 gearbox might not be a drop in replacement for another, or take the same parts easily.  However, I'm not aware of any particular quirks with the Cyberguns.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

 to ensure anywhere I'm leaking air is dealt with

 

The best airseal I have is on a sub-£100 CYMA with stock barrel, piston and nozzle, the piston and cylinder head o-rings stretched and greased, and some more ports drilled into the piston head.  Again: spending more doesn't necessarily get you more.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

I'm sure it will be full of mediocre parts as its a 220 quid rifle.

 

VFCs and Krytacs costing twice as much can break twice as fast.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

I don't mind spending a couple of hundred to turn it into a more reliable gun

 

The best amount to spend for that purpose is zero. Or at most, shim and grease it, then see how it performs.  Stock parts generally work well enough together. Once you start changing them out (I won't say upgrading) then you're adding unknowns and new points of failure.

 

 

7 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

I simply want to be able to fire a heavier bb, at decent range for target shooting for my own enjoyment.

 

As above, the hop unit and rubber is where to start.  I can't see any info on what hop unit is in yours, so it's probably an older style dial unit.  Rotary units tend to work better, and the ZCI plastic rotary units are much loved - if you can find one in stock.  Rubbers, the Maple Leaf macaron and omega nubs (e.g. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/maple-leaf-macaron-60-nub ) are popular - not the clear silicone ones! - although everyone has their favourite, like Prometheus Purple or G&G Green.

 

It's very much a case of finding out what works well in your gun.

 

Feed it the heaviest BBs that it can lift.  Through the magic of square-vs-cube physics, a heavier BB will come out slower but will go further, at the same muzzle energy.

 

Also, ahoy and welcome to the money pit.  

[DRaZZ]

Thanks for all the info guys, really appreciate it! I wasn't aware of the 1.3J legal limit on full auto so thanks for that. I will be buying a chrono soon, not for that reason but so I can know my gun is site acceptable when I start gaming n go for my ukara licence.

I will go with a 130 spring then and see what happens, I'm currently putting .25 bbs through the gun but will up that to .3 or just above.

I have played with the hop up but it seems to put an arc on the bb rather than helping it with straight range. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from an airsoft gun!

Again thanks for all the info it's helped a lot!

[RostokMcSpoons]

@Rogerborg you mention the double-firing on semi with 11.1v.  Would a MOSFET with Active Breaking help with that?   I'm considering a cheap MOSFET for my G36 just to protect the trigger contacts, but if for a few more quid (£15 --> £25) I could also protect that from happening, well, that'd be good wouldn't it?

https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-nanoaab-mosfet-advanced-active-break

[Asomodai]

5 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

Thanks for all the info guys, really appreciate it! I wasn't aware of the 1.3J legal limit on full auto so thanks for that. I will be buying a chrono soon, not for that reason but so I can know my gun is site acceptable when I start gaming n go for my ukara licence.

I will go with a 130 spring then and see what happens, I'm currently putting .25 bbs through the gun but will up that to .3 or just above.

I have played with the hop up but it seems to put an arc on the bb rather than helping it with straight range. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from an airsoft gun!

Again thanks for all the info it's helped a lot!

 

You will be well above the full auto limit with a 130 spring. Go with a m110. (And hope its not above the limit.)

[Rogerborg]

9 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

I wasn't aware of the 1.3J legal limit on full auto so thanks for that.

 

It's a technical limit, and you could probably live several lifetimes before finding anyone who knows, let alone cares.  What you do with it is much more important, i.e. don't come to the attention of the State, and it will never be an issue.

 

That said, I'm quite careful with mine, especially a bolt action sniper (with a 2.5J hard limit), because of the risk of falling foul of the Scotch airgun legislation.

 

If you do want to limit a V2 gun to semi auto, it can be done by filing a small amount off of the selector plate to stop it disengaging the cut off lever.

 

 

 

9 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

I will be buying a chrono soon, not for that reason but so I can know my gun is site acceptable when I start gaming n go for my ukara licence.

 

Always a good idea.

 

 

9 hours ago, DRaZZ said:

I have played with the hop up but it seems to put an arc on the bb rather than helping it with straight range. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from an airsoft gun!

 

I'd expect a stock hop unit and rubber to be able to over-hop 0.25g.  That means that with the hop wound fully on the BBs should be arcing upwards initially. Then dial it off gradually until the trajectory starts to flatten out.  When you get it dialled in just right, you should end up with a spookily flat trajectory, before the BB then rises just a little right at the end before dropping out of the air.

 

Oh, it's always worth cleaning out the barrel and hop rubber on any new gun - hopefully yours came with a cleaning rod.

 

 

 

9 hours ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

@Rogerborg you mention the double-firing on semi with 11.1v.  Would a MOSFET with Active Breaking help with that?   I'm considering a cheap MOSFET for my G36 just to protect the trigger contacts, but if for a few more quid (£15 --> £25) I could also protect that from happening, well, that'd be good wouldn't it?

https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-nanoaab-mosfet-advanced-active-break

 

Yup, I have to run with active braking on my JG G36 with 11.1V (and a Big Dragon M140 motor). I'm using a programmable Perun AB++, I'd hope that the NanoAAB would Just Work^tm out of the box.  One of the joys of the G36 is that you can solder the signal wire to the trigger tab outside the gearbox, no need to even open it up.

[Zevo]

I got the blue fox for my first gun did some nice upgrades to throw .32 and it’s a very nice gun the upgrades I did was a Begadi mag 5 bucking, zci barrel and a asg m105 spring. Also greased the gears rather than that manufactured max they use horrible stuff. But yea easy simple and effective upgrades if you want to lift heavier BBs. That’s what worked for me some people may say to use maple leaf macrons but I have not had hands on or worked with them on the blue fox I know that’s what worked for me and I also did the upgrades for my cousin who has the red version and both guns are perfect.

[Rogerborg]

18 minutes ago, Zevo said:

Begadi mag 5 bucking

 

Oh, that looks interesting.

 

[Leo Greer]

Never got my hands on the Begadi rubbers myself, but a lot of very smart fellows I know prefer them fully over Maple Leaf. For more info, ask around over on Airsoft Sniper Forum.

 

To increase accuracy and range, the first thing you should do is get heavier, quality ammunition, then take out your barrel group, clean out any oil or residue, polish the barrel if you feel like it, stabilize everything, and test again.

 

You will get a lot of accuracy increase out of simply stabilizing the barrel and hop unit, without spending any money.

 

If your rubber feels very hard or slick, you should consider replacing. Maple Leaf is a good option, as are Begadi. And then there are simpler options like the PDI W-hold, Krytac blue and Orange, or the G&G blue and green. As a note, the green is not an upgrade, merely a replacement for a bad rubber, and both G&G rubbers can have spec issues in different hop units, as they are designed for the G&G rotary. Shaving of the packing lips may be required.