Aeg motor height

[Shamal]

Hi guys 👋

It's not often that I ask a sensible question and less frequently do I give a sensible answer.

I know I should search the archives but what wiv me poor old eyes an all....so question is...

Is there a definitive way to set motor height for best performance?

Tingling in anticipation 🙂

Regards 

[Sneaky]

Set the tooth bevel gear to mesh with the motor gear first, then shim the rest of the gearbox? Must be YouTube videos that explain this better than me!

[Adolf Hamster]

tighten it all the way in, try to fire, keep loosening it incrementally until it's as quiet as it's going to be.

 

don't start with the motor out- this might lead to stripped gears, worst you can do with it too tight is stall the motor which isn't a problem unless you hold the trigger down and heat everything up.

 

while you're doing this be conscious of wether or not the motor is "sticking" in its mounts, ie that when you're loosening the adjustment the motor is in fact moving out.

 

 

if it still sounds like it ate a bag of gravel then the problem is more complex, either motor angle (eg for m4's with aftermarket grips), the pinion/bevel tooth profiles mismatch (very common when changing motors) or the bevel isn't shimmed correctly (which is why some folks start at the bevel and work up when shimming)

[Sneaky]

1 minute ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

if it still sounds like it ate a bag of gravel then the problem is more complex, either motor angle (eg for m4's with aftermarket grips), the pinion/bevel tooth profiles mismatch (very common when changing motors) or the bevel isn't shimmed correctly (which is why some folks start at the bevel and work up when shimming)

Yeah that was what I was trying to say, thanks!

[Shamal]

13 minutes ago, Sneaky said:

Set the tooth bevel gear to mesh with the motor gear first, then shim the rest of the gearbox? Must be YouTube videos that explain this better than me!

Thanks @Sneaky but thinking more about moving the motor up and down once gnu is assembled.👍

17 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

tighten it all the way in, try to fire, keep loosening it incrementally until it's as quiet as it's going to be.

 

don't start with the motor out- this might lead to stripped gears, worst you can do with it too tight is stall the motor which isn't a problem unless you hold the trigger down and heat everything up.

 

while you're doing this be conscious of wether or not the motor is "sticking" in its mounts, ie that when you're loosening the adjustment the motor is in fact moving out.

 

 

if it still sounds like it ate a bag of gravel then the problem is more complex, either motor angle (eg for m4's with aftermarket grips), the pinion/bevel tooth profiles mismatch (very common when changing motors) or the bevel isn't shimmed correctly (which is why some folks start at the bevel and work up when shimming)

That's great. thank you. I was a bit concerned about tightening screw too much in case it all locked up but if I do all that will happen is a warning click?

So it's pretty much a case of if it sounds right then that's the spot.

I shall do that tomorrow.

Thanks 👍

Regards 

[Adolf Hamster]

9 minutes ago, Shamal said:

That's great. thank you. I was a bit concerned about tightening screw too much in case it all locked up but if I do all that will happen is a warning click?

 

the click is less damaging than the grinding whirr.

 

stalling a motor out does draw more current than the motor running normally, but for the half second run time needed to check engagement it's generally not an issue.

 

13 minutes ago, Shamal said:

So it's pretty much a case of if it sounds right then that's the spot.

 

yep, she'll sound/feel less labored. it's a hard thing to describe really as every gun can end up sounding different. i've had boxes ran like silk seemingly no matter what you do to them and others that getting them to sound smooth was a losing battle.

[Shamal]

6 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

the click is less damaging than the grinding whirr.

 

stalling a motor out does draw more current than the motor running normally, but for the half second run time needed to check engagement it's generally not an issue.

 

 

yep, she'll sound/feel less labored. it's a hard thing to describe really as every gun can end up sounding different. i've had boxes ran like silk seemingly no matter what you do to them and others that getting them to sound smooth was a losing battle.

Thanks I'll let you know how I get on 🙂

Not much of a tinkerer but had a few day off and thought I would have a look at my old g and g gc4 g26.

Primarily wanted to tighten outer barrel assembly but one thing led to another and before I knew it she was in a hundred bits. Found out it needed an air seal,bucking and nub. Went to Combat South and bought parts and some silicon grease and gearbox grease and set to work.Its gone from 218 fps to 335 average fps with 705 rpm. And the barrel assembly is solid now.

Bit harder getting main spring in compared to my other gats which are quick change.  

Will adjusting motor increase rpm?

Regards 

[Adolf Hamster]

52 minutes ago, Shamal said:

Will adjusting motor increase rpm?

 

potentially, a bad mesh means more load on the motor which will drop the peak rpm. how much you'd be losing depends on a lot of factors such as the motor power, battery, and how tight it is.

 

you get the same effect with tight shimming, and it'll lead to things like a hotter running motor, more carbon from the contacts etc. kinda like trying to drive your car with the handbrake on.

[Shamal]

Adjusted now. Sounds good?👍

Regards 

[Chev Chelios]

I am at 20k ish rounds on a long shaft motor with the end of the shaft peened so the gear can move up and down on it, seems to be working out really well on an 11.1v pulling a short stroked system. Both pinon and bevel have meshed really well and show no signs of wear and is super silent, no chatter what so ever.

 

Anyone think of any negatives or down sides to this?