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Perun Ab++ Fitting in an Aug


KOBK81
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Hi guys im seeking some clarification regarding fitting a mosfet into an aug. Ive drawn up a crude diagram before fitting but id like to be 100%. Has anyone fitted the peun AB++ to an aug. Ive fitted seceral perun into a v2 gearboxes but the full auto bar on the aug has got me stumped a little. Ive included my diagram. 

20210429_125643.jpg

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@Iceniis our resident Aug specialist, I'm sure he'll be able to sort you out, top bloke👍

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ah ha! that's good,  I had a Perun AB++ turn up yesterday for my AUG so I am also on the hunt for info on this!

 

I did email perun but the images they sent me didn't overly help clear things up.

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A chap i know sent me this to work from.

 

Though looking at it your diagram makes much more sence.

 

 

179126162_447118256589581_324801237345955204_n.jpg

Edited by MandalShArK
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It's the same as any other mosfet, I have a better picture for the wiring tho.

Cut on the red crosses. The 2 green wires become the trigger. You can solder the perun wires directly to them (polarity doesn't matter)

The 2 blue wires are the motor wires, Polarity is important so pay attention.

43940014145_e5c2569c0c_o.jpg

 

If you want sexy wires then you need to add in a set of deans between the mosfet and motor. You just about have space with a gate nanohard so the perun should work as well. The micro connector is also nice but not essential.

43039850370_8f276d47c6_o.jpg

 

When your done if you get the wires all nice and reasonably tidy you should be able to fit it all in front of the backplate.

This is it done with an Xcoretech XET304u but I've done a gate nanohard in exactly the same way.

42996320974_e57ff89173_b.jpg
 

Because the perun AB++ is a single wire trigger you will have to tap into the red main wire as well. If you are going with a deans split then you can solder that wire to the mosfet side of the deans (not the motor side). You want it on the mosfet side so when you work on the gearbox you can completely remove the motor and move it out of the way. Give me 10 mins I'll edit an image of the deans location.

Here you go.

Purple crosses are where the deans goes for the motor connections - Cut those wires where you need them the image is not to scale.

The green are the trigger wires. You have to add a new wire to the back of the motor connection deans for the trigger. Again not to scale so pick a sensible length for those wires!

51147741305_538a53ea77_o.jpg

 

Edited by Iceni
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Told ya, if he don't know it, prob not worth knowing👍

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29 minutes ago, Iceni said:

 It makes for a much better connection.

Not if I did it. Mr blobby has nothing on me when it comes to soldering! 🤭

Regards 

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3 hours ago, Shamal said:

Not if I did it. Mr blobby has nothing on me when it comes to soldering!

Soldering is easy.

If you struggle with it then you are doing something wrong or failing to understand the solder you are using.

 

Soldering the easy way:

Buy a cheap soldering iron that has a temp control. £20 on ali express.

Get solder that has a low melting point. Forget lead free, some 60/40 or 63/37 is perfect for electronics.

 

Get some flux. Colophony 20g tins can be had on ebay for like £2.


Set the soldering iron to be slightly over the melting point of the solder. 60/40 melts at 188C so set the iron for 200C. 63/37 melts at 183C set the iron to 195C.

Clean your parts - Acetone or isopropanol and make sure you remove any grease.

Get to temp - Dip in flux - Tin soldering iron.
Dip in flux - heat part - Add solder.

Work in halves. So tin the wire, then tin the part. Then heat the part and bring the wire to it and melt together. After soldering is complete clean with some isopropanol.

Simple as that. If you work quickly and know exactly what you are working with it's just getting the hang of repeating yourself over and over.

 

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8 hours ago, Iceni said:

Soldering is easy.

If you struggle with it then you are doing something wrong or failing to understand the solder you are using.

 

Soldering the easy way:

Buy a cheap soldering iron that has a temp control. £20 on ali express.

Get solder that has a low melting point. Forget lead free, some 60/40 or 63/37 is perfect for electronics.

 

Get some flux. Colophony 20g tins can be had on ebay for like £2.


Set the soldering iron to be slightly over the melting point of the solder. 60/40 melts at 188C so set the iron for 200C. 63/37 melts at 183C set the iron to 195C.

Clean your parts - Acetone or isopropanol and make sure you remove any grease.

Get to temp - Dip in flux - Tin soldering iron.
Dip in flux - heat part - Add solder.

Work in halves. So tin the wire, then tin the part. Then heat the part and bring the wire to it and melt together. After soldering is complete clean with some isopropanol.

Simple as that. If you work quickly and know exactly what you are working with it's just getting the hang of repeating yourself over and over.

 

Ah! I see what I was doing wrong now. All of the above!! Lol.

Thanks👍🙂

Regards 

 

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