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So got myself a little T10-s BASR by Action Army after a lot of historical forum reading and general reviews.

This is my first personal sniper, have helped friend in the past with theirs but never sniped myself, initially ive sold it to myself on the basis it will be a lightweight secondary for taking out tricky opposition to keep me moving onto objectives :D


I will put my hands up and say i did have a good hard look at the Nov' rifles, i did think they look pretty good but there is so much patchy info and obv neg feedback on what im sure is a pretty good product.

That said there was just too many grey areas when it came to what you actually got in the rifle, i mean the SSG24 looks to be the best kitted, but also weighty - then theres reports of the hop units not actually being that usable due to coarse adjustment etc.

The SSG10 looks good on the outset but then you find it gets low spec hop unit, cheaper trigger set (although good Bull unit) etc etc,.

The M40 variant looks good visually but is just that, same as above SSG10 but with very expensive bodykit.

They also are all long barrels, no G-spec stylee option off the shelf so thats extra cost in inner and outer barrel right away.

Ultimately my take away from my research was they are a good rifle for those who dont want to tech, but it all comes down to money at the end of the day, its a business where you are paying for the name, more than its sum total worth??


Having seen the venerable TM VSRs being used to great affect, through extensive use stocks, fixing threads etc fatiguing or generally cheesing out, i wanted something with a sturdier construction but VSR compatibility.

Fully aware all BASRs need upgrading to be competitive in the field i added up the cost of many builds using CYMA's JG's TM's and all sorts but the Action Army T10 came up trumps, and the fresh modern look is definitely attractive!


I must admit im a sucker like many for external mods that do jack for performance, i like em pretty lol!

So im aiming this thread at copying some inspiration real steel JAE 700 builds and what ive used to achieve the finish, but also trying to get max performance without blowing the bank.

I will post results with said mods, and if something doesnt work then so be it, looking forward to seeing how this goes :D


So heres my eye candy inspiration...






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I will be following your journey with interest having come to many of the same conclusions you have. I got mine as an Xmas prezzie from the wife as I wanted to step in to tech'ing and have something to work on and upgrade during the lockdown. I followed most of the collective wisdom and experience from others on here with their own sniper journey and having now finished most of the affordable upgrades, I can't wait to try it out for the first time on the 25th. Taking it apart, maintaining and upgrading it has given me a lot of satisfaction, confidence and encouraged me to fiddle with my aeg now. Good luck and have fun, it's a great looking piece of kit.

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Hi @Panama your wifes a keeper by the sounds of it, most people go to great lengths to hide the flow of airsoft expenditure though the house :D


Yeh after many a review on the T10 it all looked to be very good value for money - sturdy stock/chassis with actual nuts and bolts not screws into cheese, easier to strip out the workings than a VSR, decent trigger set (even if FPS limited for longevity), decent cylinder, hop unit as a base, mag storage, BB feeding, long a short options.


What mods have you done to yours, and have you been able to do any distanced testing?

Nice that you have learnt from it and enjoyed the process, i do enjoy the whole research/building/testing process nearly as much as skirmishing!


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So got the basic T10-s from AirsoftWorld along with a couple of convenient parts whilst shopping there...




Havent actually got a pic of it out-the-box as i was super keen to tie in with my Cerakoter's diary 🙃

So had a quick play with it, definitely solidly built and quality materials thoughout, surprisingly light considering the amount of metal work and the extensive fixings and fasteners, well happy with that as it will spend a lot of time on my back... or will it :D


Stripped it down and had a general inspection, a lot just as expected from the reviews;

VSR hop unit - nice fine adjustment, sloppy hop arm, split halves design (maybe air seal probs, time will tell)

90 degree trigger set - mostly pot metal but good action

Plastic piston - does the job i suppose

Plastic spring guide - fine for weaker springs

Plastic sloppy guide rings - not nice

Nice cylinder - steel with nice finish

Nice cylinder head - hi flow type and 'O' ringed

Brass 300mm barrel - time will tell






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Upgrade parts wise from AirsoftWorld and Skirmshop i got;


AAC 90 degree steel trigger set - for strong spring longevity. £128.00 with the piston below, so easily the most expensive part.

AAC aluminium piston - for strong spring longevity.

AAC stainless spring guide - for strong spring longevity. £20.00

AAC delrin cylinder guide rings - for better cylinder fit, cocking action, nozzle alignment. £6 best budget upgrade

Panthera hop arm - for better fit and shot consistency. £14.40

Panthera concave nub set - matches above hop arm for nub fitment, accuracy. £16.50

Panthera barrel spacers - for barrel stabilisation, accuracy. £18.00 pair

Rapax 2+ and Rapax 3+ spring - these are linear type. £16.50 each

Flamingo 60D bucking - for accuracy i hope... £6.00


The bucking has got some mixed reports online, but thought id try it out as it was convenient to buy and ive never gotten on with Maple Leaf products personally.

Looking at the bucking it looks like it should be good, it is very well formed without any moulding defects, and a nice 'Rhop' contact patch - again time will tell.




If you want to run higher power springs in the T10 its worth noting that you can only use 10mm springs with the standard piston and spring guide.

The Rapax springs are 13mm so you will need an upgrade piston to match.




Im going to run the stock hop unit, with the Panthera hop arm, nub and Flamingo to begin with, see what kind of airseal and shot results i can achieve.


Amongst the general aesthetic tartyness going on with Cerakoting i was also intrigued to see just how nice i could get the standard cylinder to perform, so the cylinder is being externally coated in Cerakote C-109 'micro-slick'. I will also polish the inside when i get it back to clean off the usual run-in gunk you get left on your piston and contaminating your grease.


So all in spent same on the upgrades as the T10 itself, but you could save nearly half that if you didnt pimp out on the steel trigger and just run the stock one till it fails 👍

Im hoping for the money though, with some hop unit loving, it will perform as good as an SSG24 for the same money - what you think?

I can see at this point people thinking that the SSG24 now looks like good value, as did i when running the numbers, but it would be bigger than i wanted - so i would have to buy another inner and outer barrel, the hop unit is debatable(?), im not sold on 6.01s, and not visually what i wanted either - thoughts?




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Check my T-11 unfucking thread, the internals are the same as yours but I went for an internal suppression with a short inner and a long outer barrel.

Okay it's a 1J build, but given the creep I don't think I'll have to change anything to crank the power up to 2.2 :D


The stock hop unit is fine if you install a TDC

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Cheers Skara, yes i did see your T11 unfuck thread, i think the hop unit looks good on the outset.

Want to see what i can achieve without going TDC mod or CNC hop unit, i like the vernier ratchet it has.

Not keen on the TDC turret you end up with on your barrel :D



Being as this is a secondary build and keeping weight down is key, i started looking for a half decent short dot, long and short of it i came across this Visionking scope, ATRG did a good review on it - but his pictures do not do the scope justice, for the money the optics are extremely clear, the only downside is the 2nd focal plane thing, but hey this is airsoft :D





Gave it some RAL8000 treatment for good measure



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Got the remaining plastics of the T10 stock painted up, colours are;

Humbrol AD6029 - dark earth

Humbrol AD6080 - grass green

Krylon woodland light green

Krylon camo brown

Riolett 2K RAL8000




Most of the metal parts are being Cerakoted in the swatch above - Patriot Brown.

The outer barrel / upper receiver is going Midnight Bronze.




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If you wanted to keep weight down, then you should have gone for a bare essential swiss arms 4x40.

I had that very short dot on mine and compared to the aforementioned 4x40 it's like 3 times the weight (and bulk). Nonetheless it's a great optic for the price and gives plenty of versatility (the reticle is useless for airsoft, so being SFP isn't an issue), it might end up on one of the M4s.


I went with the tdc because coming from a striker I firmly believe that it should be the standard on ALL airsoft guns. Can't get a more precise and direct pressure to the rubber than that. Plus it's stupid easy to install (the GS one does stick out a bit, if you want a low profile option then the tridos one might be a better choice).

With that being said, the stock hop chamber is plenty and I'm sure it'll serve you well! It didn't seem to give bbs the infamous right curve VSRs are known for.


Since you are uk based, instead of those guide rings I would have gone for a cylinder sleeve from longbow, I say it's much better as it actually centres and guides the cylinder in its travel. I plan on making my own once I find the right tubing.


All things considered AA made a really good gun at a very affordable price tag!

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Yeh I mean the longbow sleeve is essentially 1 normal guide ring and 1 looong guide ring.

Ultimately to stabilise something you need 2 contact points over a distance, the sleeve is just adding friction surely.

If a cylinder and 2 rings are properly sized you won’t have any play.


The other issue with airsoft BASRs is that when cocking the bolt we are pulling a big ass spring, whereas a real rifle is just loading a round and cocking the trigger/sear.

If you pull close to the centreline there is a lot less side loading.

Yes compared to even TMs I’m really impressed with the quality, yes they put some cheap parts in, but they are easily replaced parts which is the right way to make a decent gun and sell it cheaply, impressed!

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