RonLancs Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Hi all, I’m looking for a Mosfet for CYMA MP5. I don’t want an internal one, it doesn’t need to be fancy but it needs to fit in hand guard or at the back of the gearbox. I’m using an 11.1 in it at the moment and it runs nicely but I want to save my trigger contacts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 doubt if you will get anything smaller... it's fucking tiny... https://www.airsoftworld.net/perun-mosfet.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davegolf Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Could also put a fly back across the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonLancs Posted December 28, 2020 Author Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 19:49, Sitting Duck said: doubt if you will get anything smaller... it's fucking tiny... https://www.airsoftworld.net/perun-mosfet.html Expand Nice mate that’s exactly what I’m looking for. Thanks. On 28/12/2020 at 19:54, Davegolf said: Could also put a fly back across the motor. Expand What’s a fly back mate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davegolf Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Fly back diode, eats up the shutdown current created by a DC voltage motor, saves the brushes/commutator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 19:49, Sitting Duck said: doubt if you will get anything smaller... it's fucking tiny... https://www.airsoftworld.net/perun-mosfet.html Expand failing that - use a snubber/flyback diode across a NORMAL cheapo motor don't put them on SHS/G&G types - well I wouldn't... think kwa use this as some fancy bollox to save trigger contacts but yeah it is a flyback diode to drastically lessent the sparks at contact which incidently is not when the circuit if first closed as many think but as the trolley pops and the switch opens once again - ZZAAPPP a large massive spark jumps from the inductive load - aka da motaaa and THAT is how your contacts arc n weld n shit 50p diode, schottky diode qwells 98% of the arcing On 28/12/2020 at 19:54, Davegolf said: Could also put a fly back across the motor. Expand ninja'd coz dinner was being dished up - lol WHY THE FUCK DID I QUOTE MYSELF ??? THOUGHT I WAS EDITTING THE POST DAMN IT was looking for the kwa or king arms thingy with super duper trigger saver module (it's a fucking flyback diode ffs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davegolf Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Mwhoo haa! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 19:59, Davegolf said: Mwhoo haa! Expand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davegolf Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 You’d seriously fuck your self up with light-chucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 20:06, Davegolf said: You’d seriously fuck your self up with light-chucks! Expand oh yeah, there are moments when the bloke wouldn't have head or foot left but still cleverly done - though each stick had a flyback diode installed I reckon here kwa snubber/flyback bollox The new KWA SLE - Switch Life Extender https://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/m239/KWA/p37623/KWA-VM4-RONIN-6-PDW-AEG-2.5-Rifle-(Black)/product_info.html nnaaaahhhh it's a snubber flyback diode ya cheeky marketing cunts BUT - still more reliable than a G&G ETU I guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 Think I'll launch a new thingy too Dynamic Electrical Assistance Nexus System... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 19:58, Sitting Duck said: which incidently is not when the circuit if first closed as many think but as the trolley pops and the switch opens once again - ZZAAPPP a large massive spark jumps from the inductive load - aka da motaaa and THAT is how your contacts arc n weld n shit Expand I kinda wish i didnt need to arc-weld a 3-phase rated switch together with about 6kv worth of back emf to have learned that lesson (or at least remembered back emf was a thing) And thats how hamster got banned from the electrical lab....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamal Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 21:07, Sitting Duck said: Think I'll launch a new thingy too Dynamic Electrical Assistance Nexus System... Expand Quiet you fool..keep it under your hat. You could be on to something....😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davegolf Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 21:26, Adolf Hamster said: I kinda wish i didnt need to arc-weld a 3-phase rated switch together with about 6kv worth of back emf to have learned that lesson (or at least remembered back emf was a thing) And thats how hamster got banned from the electrical lab....... Expand Aaand that’s how Hamster got Adolf’d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 as said the ICS & KWA motors are the "normal" cheapo China motor types... they got them locking tabs at sides... The SHS/G&G & others that have 2 allen screw/bolts fastening into a lock ring inside (that CONDUCTS !!!) there is a risk of shorting if you place a diode across them (perhaps) but I wouldn't fit a flyback to a G&G/SHS motor like ICS clip shows KWA does it a bit differently, wired in as a module in series so should work on G&G/SHS (so some kudos to KWA I suppose but calling it a fancy name - jeeeez marketing BS or wot) ICS method is the simple straight forward method & is fine for cheapo "tabbed" motors, but bit tricky or risky perhaps on other motor types as you may short shit out if not careful on lockring type motors only saying this in case somebody tries to sue me for fireworks inside their toy gun you can just wire it across the wires, just on certain motor types you MIGHT create a short with the lockring motors - that's all The diode needs to be across the motor, preferably as close as possible to motor but can be a tiny bit further back (not much) or not quite immediately directly across motor (like the tiny extra wiring dooberry in the KWA bollox) HOWEVER - the diode MUST be between the switch & motor to snub the sparks (in a non mosfet gun) If you put the diode across the positive & negative wires BEFORE switch it doesn't snub the spark So the diode goes somewhere across the motor & between motor+switch so to speak There are a number of options, you can splice a diode in & a mosfet should have protection in it anyway, where/what the protection is varies on mosfet model (the 3034 is a more robust mosfet than the cheap ones like 1404's, a 1404 benefits from a flyback) you can add a flyback to most guns, but usually it goes across or close to motor to snub sparks Diodes - even mosfets nick a tiny tiny smidge of juice before they turn on, called the forwarding voltage "Well hello there...", no switch on then, but you won't really notice it and you need to prevent burning out contacts somehow for long term reliability on 11.1v Flyback/Snubber/Schottky are a cheap effective method to drastically reduce the damage on 11.1v I'm not an electrical engineer so be warned trying to slap schottky's across G&G's, SHS's etc... on the cheapo "tabbed" motors you will be fine to wire it across the motor itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 21:37, Davegolf said: Aaand that’s how Hamster got Adolf’d Expand The moral of this story is: If you're gonna fuck up, fuck up when nobody important is looking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 22:08, Adolf Hamster said: The moral of this story is: If you're gonna fuck up, fuck up when nobody important is looking Expand naaahhhh - you can become famous thanks to YouTube... if this bloke suffers a cardiac arrest & needs defibrillator well it better be a 3 phase one or something coz how he is alive is beyond me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 22:31, Sitting Duck said: naaahhhh - you can become famous thanks to YouTube... if this bloke suffers a cardiac arrest & needs defibrillator well it better be a 3 phase one or something coz how he is alive is beyond me Expand See you answered your own statement there- that bloke already has the market cornered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 28, 2020 true dat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonLancs Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 You reckon this’n will be ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted December 29, 2020 Supporters Share Posted December 29, 2020 YUP - it is the classic China motor, with the 2 tabs punched shut at sides. The 2 screws you fit the Schottky diode to do not enter a lockring like on SHS/G&G's, Fit a cheapy Schottky diode on there, thus reducing the sparks from motor's inductive load, when switch re-opens as trolley pops on semi, (or you release trigger on auto). The sparks come from the power shutting off at switch, as switch opens, but energy is stored in motor/relay, and THAT is where/when the spark jumps across the opening contacts... The diode just tells the sparks to fuck off. Wrap the diode leads CLOCKWISE if possible... for some reason in ICS video they wrap it counter-clockwise, I mean it will work & all that... just if you wrap wires CCW they can tend to want to fight their way off the screw you tighten CW, so if you wrap the wire/lead CLOCKWISE it tends to fight less as you tighten screw... Bit like when people apply PTFE tape to plumbing compression joints but wrap the wrong way & wonder why tape is stripping away as they tighten joint. Again wrap the tape clockwise the way the nut tightens and it doesn't fight to undo as you tighten. Same with wires/leads, wrap CW if possible so it fights less trying to jump off screw as you tighten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonLancs Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 On 29/12/2020 at 13:08, Sitting Duck said: YUP - it is the classic China motor, with the 2 tabs punched shut at sides. The 2 screws you fit the Schottky diode to do not enter a lockring like on SHS/G&G's, Fit a cheapy Schottky diode on there, thus reducing the sparks from motor's inductive load, when switch re-opens as trolley pops on semi, (or you release trigger on auto). The sparks come from the power shutting off at switch, as switch opens, but energy is stored in motor/relay, and THAT is where/when the spark jumps across the opening contacts... The diode just tells the sparks to fuck off Expand You're a good'n cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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