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Asomodai

Ok to Leave Out Motor Disc Plate?

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Hey all. 

 

Got my Tavor project finished. However I can only get a good sounding gearbox if I leave out the Motors screw adjustment disk (and obviously not have the height adjustment screw in.)

 

I dont have the correct tools to cut down the motor shaft and reposition the pinion gear. 

 

Is it ok to not run with the disk installed? Anyone ever done it before?

 

Cheers!

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Not really a problem, i only think I have a motor disk in one AEG - never encountered a related issue. I think they just serve as a sort of shim that is a flat contact for the height adjustment screw.

 

Edit* if the height adjustment screw is a grub screw that would enter the motor recess and make contact with central column of the motor then maybe that could cause issues - so this would effect an MP5 or the old TM m16 grip... the gun I use one in is the MP5. Is your contact point of the height adjustment screw flat or does it have a pointy bit that would poke in to the top of the motor?

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18 minutes ago, Zarrin said:

Not really a problem, i only think I have a motor disk in one AEG - never encountered a related issue. I think they are just serve as a sort of shim. 

It's used so that the adjustment screw doesnt hit the shaft of the motor. But it also increases the height of the motor. Unfortunately the SHS high torque is slightly longer then your average short shaft motor which means I cant loosen the motor enough to get a decent sounding gearbox without removing the motor disk. 

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17 minutes ago, Asomodai said:

It's used so that the adjustment screw doesnt hit the shaft of the motor. But it also increases the height of the motor. Unfortunately the SHS high torque is slightly longer then your average short shaft motor which means I cant loosen the motor enough to get a decent sounding gearbox without removing the motor disk. 

 

Yeah, but as I mentioned in the edit most adjustment screws are flat and can't interface with the central column, you only have to worry about the disc if its a grub screw that enters the recess.

 

So something like this (might need the disc):

GOL-M-232-1.jpg

vs this which wouldn't :

61ywYEAlQTL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Zarrin said:

 

Yeah, but as I mentioned in the edit most adjustment screws are flat and can't interface with the central column, you only have to worry about the disc if its a grub screw that enters the recess.

 

So something like this (might need the disc):

GOL-M-232-1.jpg

vs this which wouldn't :

61ywYEAlQTL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

 

Oh it's a grub screw. But I won't be using one as the height is perfect without the disk or screw. 

 

It was more of a question of whether the motor will be particularly stable without it. 

 

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Ah okay, well as long as it doesn't seem to be causing a short or wrecking havoc in anyway I would assume it should be okay. I only have one disc in use and i've never seen any instability in the other bunch.

I suppose if some one was worried about creating a short or connection to the column without a disc then a little blob of hot glue might work.

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As mentioned before the disk is there to prevent the motor shaft from being pressed on, as long as thats the case you can do without.

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So throwing caution to the wind. I decided to re-open up and put the motor shim in. Who knows I might forget about it at a later date and put in a new screw and start adjusting! 

 

However I hunted around for the thinnest shim, the Tavor is slightly grindy for it, but it will probably get better as the gears bed in. 

 

Cheers for the help guys :D

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I'd be suspicious of the pinion engagement. If you are sure it's 100% then carry on.

I know some gearbox designs have a few design flaws that means they run with a gear bias. V3's are pretty poor for this as the tappet plate can bind up with a sector that is too high, so lowering the sector to allow for this, then following suit with the rest of the gears can cause a low bevel.

I've just seen the images on the other threat and all looks good! So I wouldn't overthink it.

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8 minutes ago, Iceni said:

I'd be suspicious of the pinion engagement. If you are sure it's 100% then carry on.

I think I would tweak the bevel gear height a shim or 2 just to have some motor adjustment and be 100% on a good amount of metal contact between the pinion and bevel.

V3's are a bit of an odd animal to shim as the tappet plate is often the biggest concern. Because of that I tent to find most of my aug boxes are set with a bias rather than running central. That bias does some pretty strange things to how the gears sit together and often the bevel ends up lower if you are using V2 style shimming.

 

The Bevel gear is already sitting pretty high so I didn't really have much leeway in that I am afraid. engagement is pretty good between Pinion and Bevel though not 100% perfect. 

 

It's certainly not a V2 or 3 gearbox. Reminds me of the P90 gearbox to an extent, but with integrated motor cage. 

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Yeah I was in the process of editing when you responded! I tend to write a responses 2 or 3 times to get rid of the waffle and repeating of things!

I have a habit of running away on tangents, and it's not until I've re-read the post, and come back to it that I'll be happy with a final response.

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13 minutes ago, Iceni said:

Yeah I was in the process of editing when you responded! I tend to write a responses 2 or 3 times to get rid of the waffle and repeating of things!

I have a habit of running away on tangents, and it's not until I've re-read the post, and come back to it that I'll be happy with a final response.

 

Honestly I consistently do that! I urge people to not respond to my post within 20 minutes as I am likely editing it. 

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if it is a SHS torque, then I'm assuming you already got the D pinion at its very lowest point

 

you "could" file off a wafer from the plastic end bell - just half a mm, ensuring the spindle isn't exposed

(obviously this needs to be filed fairly flat & true, but if in motor cage then doesn't have to 101% NASA spec true)

I'm assuming it is a plastic end bell on SHS as not bought any HT SHS recently

so if plastic, could shave a wafer off, to give you a tiny bit of slack with a thin disc, reduce whine

& have a bit of adjustment as/when it might need it in the future perhaps if using long term

 

TBH, end of day the gun was more of a project, probably skirmish it a bit but not to become your main gun

so presume after a few outings it will likely become a bit of a wall hanger in the end over other peew peew's in collection

 

You could leave it without the spacer/motor disc, tweak/file end cap a bit if you are really bugged out by it

or go with what you have a whisker higher than expected

Real test is what it sounds like and test the amps with/without disc to check the amp draw

 

Or - just remove it or whatever to make it just sound correct/better etc....

Do what you think is best but likely end as a wall hanger of just a string in your bow project gun perhaps

(or just add the thin disc as/when it needs it and gears run themselves in/wear a bit)

 

Go with what you think best is the real answer, congrats on your little project btw 

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