uniweekendwarrior Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Hi all, My mate dropped me off his GFC GF25, I'm guessing their version of the sr25 dmr. The fault with it being it's stuck on full auto. So I'm taking it apart and I get to the selector switch and I'm stuck. On my other rifles there is a screw on the switch to remove it. How do I remove the switch from the GFC.? Tia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted October 3, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 3, 2017 Screw on the inside usually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 9 hours ago, Lozart said: Screw on the inside usually. On the inside? I carnt get to the inside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted October 4, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 4, 2017 You don't need to. If you're trying to get the gearbox out, you'll need to remove the pistol grip (along with the motor). Once all the body pins are out you should then be able to remove the gearbox. The fire selector has a flat cam disc on the inside of the receiver shell that pushes the selector plate back and forth. Putting it to semi will place the cam in its uppermost position and allow you to easily slide the gearbox out. The fire selector doesn't go all the way through the gearbox - if you rotate the selector while watching the round plate on the opposite side, you'll see that the plate doesn't move. It's just a dummy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Yeah I am trying to remove the gearbox. How the heck do you remove the pistol grip I don't see any screws or anything? I've taken off the base plate and every push pin I can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted October 4, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 4, 2017 3 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said: Yeah I am trying to remove the gearbox. How the heck do you remove the pistol grip I don't see any screws or anything? I've taken off the base plate and every push pin I can find. Have you taken the motor out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Ermm no haha. I'm out right now so I'll try when I get home and let you know if I'm still stuck. Cheers buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted October 4, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 4, 2017 1 minute ago, uniweekendwarrior said: Ermm no haha. I'm out right now so I'll try when I get home and let you know if I'm still stuck. Cheers buddy *sucks through teeth* Well, THERE'S your problem, guv. Have a look at this Basically the same - around 4 minutes in he starts taking off the baseplate and removing the motor. Once you have the motor out, the screws (should be two) inside the top end of the pistol grip are what is holding your gearbox in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 You sir are a legend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted October 4, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 4, 2017 I aim to please. I usually miss and have to adjust for windage but.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Thanks I expect I'll have more questions soon enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 7 hours ago, Lozart said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Ok, taken apart- reassembled but I have a question. The motor isn't marked with a positive or negative indication. How do I know which way around it goes? I can see some what looks like red paint on the don't know its name lol node or something haha is that the positive side? Tia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted October 8, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 8, 2017 Yes, red is positive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 Yea thought so , still buggered though now the motor spins when the gun is switched to semi auto with no trigger pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted October 8, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 8, 2017 1 hour ago, uniweekendwarrior said: Yea thought so , still buggered though now the motor spins when the gun is switched to semi auto with no trigger pull A short circuit - is this a regular trigger gun or a high end Gunfire with ASCU installed ??? The v2.5 gearbox "could" be a JG one with copper selector and "prongs" at rear of switch etc.... Doesn't really matter if it is a JG or A&K or G&P or CA or whatever.... The main thin is the switch/prongs & selector plate used A&K & G&P v2.5's don't have prongs at back of trigger switch - but others like JG "might" have Where am I going with all of this ???? Well if your trigger trolley is stuck in the contacts say, maybe the trolley spring has come off/broke so it don't return, thus stuck closing the circuit etc.... IF your gearbox had no prongs at back of switch then gun would fire all the time regardless of safety BUT - if it has the prongs and copper plate like picture.... Then in safety mode the circuit - copperplate/prongs is open and so doesn't fire The moment you move the selector into semi/auto the plate touches the prongs, completes the circuit (providing the trolley is stuck in the switch contacts) and gun goes nuts firing full auto...... Did you forget to connect the trolley spring or fit correctly ???? (think I have forgotten that as well as the tappet plate spring at least once or twice) Not steaming in but that is what it sounds like to me based on the shooting on semi but not on safe you could have punctured the trigger wires with the small pin but unlikely unless you moved wires (or carelessly arranged wires when re-wiring a gun - ergh I might have done that also but don't tell anybody) It is some short but think you got the copper plate prong switch perhaps on the gearbox for "safe safety" but "nutz semi" If all the above is a bit much to grasp - the trolley spring has come off & trolley stuck in contacts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 8 hours ago, Sitting Duck said: A short circuit - is this a regular trigger gun or a high end Gunfire with ASCU installed ??? The v2.5 gearbox "could" be a JG one with copper selector and "prongs" at rear of switch etc.... Doesn't really matter if it is a JG or A&K or G&P or CA or whatever.... The main thin is the switch/prongs & selector plate used A&K & G&P v2.5's don't have prongs at back of trigger switch - but others like JG "might" have Where am I going with all of this ???? Well if your trigger trolley is stuck in the contacts say, maybe the trolley spring has come off/broke so it don't return, thus stuck closing the circuit etc.... IF your gearbox had no prongs at back of switch then gun would fire all the time regardless of safety BUT - if it has the prongs and copper plate like picture.... Then in safety mode the circuit - copperplate/prongs is open and so doesn't fire The moment you move the selector into semi/auto the plate touches the prongs, completes the circuit (providing the trolley is stuck in the switch contacts) and gun goes nuts firing full auto...... Did you forget to connect the trolley spring or fit correctly ???? (think I have forgotten that as well as the tappet plate spring at least once or twice) Not steaming in but that is what it sounds like to me based on the shooting on semi but not on safe you could have punctured the trigger wires with the small pin but unlikely unless you moved wires (or carelessly arranged wires when re-wiring a gun - ergh I might have done that also but don't tell anybody) It is some short but think you got the copper plate prong switch perhaps on the gearbox for "safe safety" but "nutz semi" If all the above is a bit much to grasp - the trolley spring has come off & trolley stuck in contacts No idea about the trigger, I believe the guns standard, it's a friends. But it is the gearbox with the copper prong safety on the back. After reading it through twice i understand it haha. I havnt touched the wiring and i dont think i missed any springs I'll check. If the contacts are stuck can that only be the spring? Or could corrosion lead to it sticking? If so what's the best way to sort this? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted October 8, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 8, 2017 59 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said: No idea about the trigger, I believe the guns standard, it's a friends. But it is the gearbox with the copper prong safety on the back. After reading it through twice i understand it haha. I havnt touched the wiring and i dont think i missed any springs I'll check. If the contacts are stuck can that only be the spring? Or could corrosion lead to it sticking? If so what's the best way to sort this? Cheers As your friend dropped it off going nutz on full auto - it sounds the problem is the same it sounds like there was a short where the moving part - trigger trolley has got stuck in the contacts It is possible the trolley spring has broken/missing/slipped off so the trolley never returned... Now there could be other areas but somehow the circuit is shorting out could be the two red wires - but unlikely to just go like that I have had a trolley stick in the contacts that was very tight, that even with the spring it stuck bashing the gun and it released itself in the end The trolley's top lug - the top white bit could have broken off so the trolley was no longer under tension to return The spring slipped off, snapped - whatever but something has gone tits up around that location imho Open up the box, have a look and what you need to do to fix the main problem Most likely at worst it will be a trolley spring or trolley/switch about a fiver or less to fix That is my guess atm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 6 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said: As your friend dropped it off going nutz on full auto - it sounds the problem is the same it sounds like there was a short where the moving part - trigger trolley has got stuck in the contacts It is possible the trolley spring has broken/missing/slipped off so the trolley never returned... Now there could be other areas but somehow the circuit is shorting out could be the two red wires - but unlikely to just go like that I have had a trolley stick in the contacts that was very tight, that even with the spring it stuck bashing the gun and it released itself in the end The trolley's top lug - the top white bit could have broken off so the trolley was no longer under tension to return The spring slipped off, snapped - whatever but something has gone tits up around that location imho Open up the box, have a look and what you need to do to fix the main problem Most likely at worst it will be a trolley spring or trolley/switch about a fiver or less to fix That is my guess atm Looks intact Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted October 8, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 8, 2017 16 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said: Looks intact WELL F*CK ME - I'm shocked !!!! Two suggestions then - are the contacts the trolley engages still apart or have they been flattened or squished together ??? why is there a silver wire and a red wire - is there a mosfet in there ??? thought it would be usual black/red take a pic of whole gearbox with wires n stuff maybe ??? A f*cked mosfet often sticks on - but this would/should mean gun fires as soon as battery is plugged in (regardless of safety I would of thought) but check the contacts are still separated - remove the cylinder if need to to check they are still apart Think them contacts or something is shorting at trigger or them two wires somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 It did have a mosfet but it messed up and was removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniweekendwarrior Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 Contacts are not touching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted October 8, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 8, 2017 50 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said: Contacts are not touching F*CK ME X 1,000 etc.... Time to get a test meter out and check EXACTLY where the short is then I'd say the switch itself is suspect BUT remember the selector must contact the prongs when testing (In safe it will break the circuit) "maybe" the switch or wires is shorting on the gearbox shell itself somewhere ??? BUT if the short took place elsewhere the gun would fire on safe I would have thought Also though I suspect the short in the vicinity of the trigger - who knows as it has been rewired ?? If the mosfet failed - why didn't somebody just replace the mosfet ??? So has the rewire been done 101% correctly or was a short causing the mosfet to blow or give the impression the mosfet died I personally would perhaps at some point consider desoldering the wires at switch and thoroughly testing switch then wires seperately Then once pinpointing where the short is happening look to replace switch or wire It does seem the switch is the area to investigate as the selector plate and semi but not in safe It has to be around that area to me..... See if the two wires - silver & red had a wafer thin join shorting them it would fire in safe if the prongs were shorted it wouldn't fire until contacts bridged So in my mind them damn contacts must be bridged somehow ??? was the switch removed and rewired/soldered when removing the mosfet wiring ??? Somewhere that trigger switch is pear shaped in my book Might need to check out the wiring and get a new trigger switch perhaps a non prong shs switch but keep copper on selector even though not needed YES it is a JG v2.5 with jumbo cylinder head and std cylinder it seems than the longer cylinder/piston WTF do makers do this - you even got the std 16 tooth sector than the 19 tooth sector poxy ar$ey gearbox - just extending a friggin v2 but not doing it with longer teeth/piston They just slopped a jumbo length cylinder head instead ffs As for this electrical issue - I'm starting to think... You don't need a tech - you need either a coroner to do an autopsy or a friggin' priest coz the bastid gun seems possessed by some weird dark spirits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted October 9, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 9, 2017 10 hours ago, uniweekendwarrior said: The only weird thing I can come up atm that the spring on the safety arm is coming into contact with red wire but the silver wire would have to touching the metal box making it live for a short to take place or something ??? You could try to flatten that red wire down a bit though it looks like it should clear under the spring But it looks like it might be clear just about and spring/arm does sit a good few mm above Though there is a raised hump a little further back.... As the mosfet got removed - probably was a $hite cheapo one that blows as soon as it goes above 10amp When the mosfet was removed and rewired, something likely went tits on the rewire & resoldering at switch Tell you what is a little strange though - that switch Not so much the black & white mix of it so much - had a black trolley in a white switch or vice versa in a gun or two - though it is a bit weird that you got black switch contact body with a white end cap. Should be all white I think on JG stuff that I found.... So wondering if the switch unit is now a bit of a mish mash of bits n bobs though it looks like end cap fits Does raise some concerns though about just how well it was modified/rewired after mosfet removal BUT - it is a but coz it is a bit hard to make out in pic.... By the silver wire solder joint, the tab it solders to seem to be at the back or right of switch in picture The soldered tab is sandwiched between the black & white and looks OK HOWEVER - there is a bit of copper right above the main blob of solder - this likely the other copper track Is it bridged at all coz this would be the two tracks of the contacts and would be the same as the trolley stuck in contacts.... That switch looks suspect - a short is taking place there at some point but hard to see and figure out in pics Yes those china mosfets are $hite, a decent pico ssr3 or Fire-Storm or heck knock your own 3034 for under a fiver are miles better. If the mosfet crapped out, it would have been easier to replace the mosfet - even a Gate nano whould have been fine, any bit of resoldering wouldn't have mattered coz the gun needed redoing when rewiring back to std non-mosfet wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Samurai Posted October 9, 2017 Supporters Share Posted October 9, 2017 Does it spin if you remove the pistol grip's bottom plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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