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Hi all,

 

My mate dropped me off his GFC GF25, I'm guessing their version of the sr25 dmr. The fault with it being it's stuck on full auto. So I'm taking it apart and I get to the selector switch and I'm stuck. On my other rifles there is a screw on the switch to remove it. How do I remove the switch from the GFC.? 

 

Tia 

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Screw on the inside usually.

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9 hours ago, Lozart said:

Screw on the inside usually.

On the inside? I carnt get to the inside 

20171004_095143.jpg

20171004_095254.jpg

20171004_095318.jpg

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You don't need to. 

 

If you're trying to get the gearbox out, you'll need to remove the pistol grip (along with the motor). Once all the body pins are out you should then be able to remove the gearbox. The fire selector has a flat cam disc on the inside of the receiver shell that pushes the selector plate back and forth. Putting it to semi will place the cam in its uppermost position and allow you to easily slide the gearbox out. The fire selector doesn't go all the way through the gearbox - if you rotate the selector while watching the round plate on the opposite side, you'll see that the plate doesn't move. It's just a dummy.

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Yeah I am trying to remove the gearbox. How the heck do you remove the pistol grip I don't see any screws or anything? I've taken off the base plate and every push pin I can find. 

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3 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

Yeah I am trying to remove the gearbox. How the heck do you remove the pistol grip I don't see any screws or anything? I've taken off the base plate and every push pin I can find. 

 

Have you taken the motor out?

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Ermm no haha. I'm out right now so I'll try when I get home and let you know if I'm still stuck. Cheers buddy 

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1 minute ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

Ermm no haha. I'm out right now so I'll try when I get home and let you know if I'm still stuck. Cheers buddy 

 

*sucks through teeth* Well, THERE'S your problem, guv.

 

Have a look at this 

 

 

Basically the same - around 4 minutes in he starts taking off the baseplate and removing the motor.

 

Once you have the motor out, the screws (should be two) inside the top end of the pistol grip are what is holding your gearbox in.

 

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You sir are a legend :)

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I aim to please.

 

 

 

 

 

I usually miss and have to adjust for windage but....

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Thanks I expect I'll have more questions soon enough 

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7 hours ago, Lozart said:

 

 

 

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Ok, taken apart- reassembled but I have a question.  The motor isn't marked with a positive or negative indication. How do I know which way around it goes? 

 

I can see some what looks like red paint on the don't know its name lol node or something haha is that the positive side? 

 

Tia

20171005_112832.jpg

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Yes,  red is positive. 

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Yea thought so , still buggered though now the motor spins when the gun is switched to semi auto with no trigger pull 

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1 hour ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

Yea thought so , still buggered though now the motor spins when the gun is switched to semi auto with no trigger pull 

 

A short circuit - is this a regular trigger gun or a high end Gunfire with ASCU installed ???

 

The v2.5 gearbox "could" be a JG one with copper selector and "prongs" at rear of switch etc....

[IMG]

 

Doesn't really matter if it is a JG or A&K or G&P or CA or whatever....

The main thin is the switch/prongs & selector plate used

A&K & G&P v2.5's don't have prongs at back of trigger switch - but others like JG "might" have

Where am I going with all of this ????

 

Well if your trigger trolley is stuck in the contacts say, maybe the trolley spring has come off/broke

so it don't return, thus stuck closing the circuit etc....

IF your gearbox had no prongs at back of switch then gun would fire all the time regardless of safety

BUT - if it has the prongs and copper plate like picture....

Then in safety mode the circuit - copperplate/prongs is open and so doesn't fire

The moment you move the selector into semi/auto the plate touches the prongs, completes the circuit

(providing the trolley is stuck in the switch contacts)

and gun goes nuts firing full auto......

 

Did you forget to connect the trolley spring or fit correctly ????

(think I have forgotten that as well as the tappet plate spring at least once or twice)

 

Not steaming in but that is what it sounds like to me based on the shooting on semi but not on safe

you could have punctured the trigger wires with the small pin but unlikely unless you moved wires

(or carelessly arranged wires when re-wiring a gun - ergh  I might have done that also but don't tell anybody)

It is some short but think you got the copper plate prong switch perhaps on the gearbox for "safe safety" but "nutz semi"

 

If all the above is a bit much to grasp - the trolley spring has come off & trolley stuck in contacts

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8 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:

 

A short circuit - is this a regular trigger gun or a high end Gunfire with ASCU installed ???

 

The v2.5 gearbox "could" be a JG one with copper selector and "prongs" at rear of switch etc....

[IMG]

 

Doesn't really matter if it is a JG or A&K or G&P or CA or whatever....

The main thin is the switch/prongs & selector plate used

A&K & G&P v2.5's don't have prongs at back of trigger switch - but others like JG "might" have

Where am I going with all of this ????

 

Well if your trigger trolley is stuck in the contacts say, maybe the trolley spring has come off/broke

so it don't return, thus stuck closing the circuit etc....

IF your gearbox had no prongs at back of switch then gun would fire all the time regardless of safety

BUT - if it has the prongs and copper plate like picture....

Then in safety mode the circuit - copperplate/prongs is open and so doesn't fire

The moment you move the selector into semi/auto the plate touches the prongs, completes the circuit

(providing the trolley is stuck in the switch contacts)

and gun goes nuts firing full auto......

 

Did you forget to connect the trolley spring or fit correctly ????

(think I have forgotten that as well as the tappet plate spring at least once or twice)

 

Not steaming in but that is what it sounds like to me based on the shooting on semi but not on safe

you could have punctured the trigger wires with the small pin but unlikely unless you moved wires

(or carelessly arranged wires when re-wiring a gun - ergh  I might have done that also but don't tell anybody)

It is some short but think you got the copper plate prong switch perhaps on the gearbox for "safe safety" but "nutz semi"

 

If all the above is a bit much to grasp - the trolley spring has come off & trolley stuck in contacts

 

No idea about the trigger, I believe the guns standard, it's a friends. 

 

But it is the gearbox with the copper prong safety on the back.

 

After reading it through twice i understand it haha. I havnt touched the wiring and i dont think i missed any springs I'll check. 

 

If the contacts are stuck can that only be the spring? Or could corrosion lead to it sticking? If so what's the best way to sort this? 

 

Cheers 

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59 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

No idea about the trigger, I believe the guns standard, it's a friends. 

But it is the gearbox with the copper prong safety on the back.

After reading it through twice i understand it haha. I havnt touched the wiring and i dont think i missed any springs I'll check. 

If the contacts are stuck can that only be the spring? Or could corrosion lead to it sticking? If so what's the best way to sort this? 

Cheers 

 

As your friend dropped it off going nutz on full auto - it sounds the problem is the same

it sounds like there was a short where the moving part - trigger trolley has got stuck in the contacts

It is possible the trolley spring has broken/missing/slipped off so the trolley never returned...

 

Image result for airsoft v2 trigger switch

 

Now there could be other areas but somehow the circuit is shorting out

could be the two red wires - but unlikely to just go like that

 

I have had a trolley stick in the contacts that was very tight, that even with the spring it stuck

bashing the gun and it released itself in the end

 

The trolley's top lug - the top white bit could have broken off so the trolley was no longer under tension to return

The spring slipped off, snapped - whatever but something has gone tits up around that location imho

Open up the box, have a look and what you need to do to fix the main problem

Most likely at worst it will be a trolley spring or trolley/switch about a fiver or less to fix

 

That is my guess atm

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6 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:

 

As your friend dropped it off going nutz on full auto - it sounds the problem is the same

it sounds like there was a short where the moving part - trigger trolley has got stuck in the contacts

It is possible the trolley spring has broken/missing/slipped off so the trolley never returned...

 

Image result for airsoft v2 trigger switch

 

Now there could be other areas but somehow the circuit is shorting out

could be the two red wires - but unlikely to just go like that

 

I have had a trolley stick in the contacts that was very tight, that even with the spring it stuck

bashing the gun and it released itself in the end

 

The trolley's top lug - the top white bit could have broken off so the trolley was no longer under tension to return

The spring slipped off, snapped - whatever but something has gone tits up around that location imho

Open up the box, have a look and what you need to do to fix the main problem

Most likely at worst it will be a trolley spring or trolley/switch about a fiver or less to fix

 

That is my guess atm

 

Looks intact 

15074981793121656300536.jpg

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16 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

 

Looks intact 

15074981793121656300536.jpg

 

 

WELL F*CK ME - I'm shocked !!!!

 

Two suggestions then - are the contacts the trolley engages still apart or have they been flattened or squished together ???

Image result for airsoft v2 trigger switch

 

why is there a silver wire and a red wire - is there a mosfet in there ???

thought it would be usual black/red

take a pic of whole gearbox with wires n stuff maybe ???

A f*cked mosfet often sticks on - but this would/should mean gun fires as soon as battery is plugged in

(regardless of safety I would of thought)

 

but check the contacts are still separated - remove the cylinder if need to to check they are still apart

Think them contacts or something is shorting at trigger or them two wires somewhere

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It did have a mosfet but it messed up and was removed. 

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Contacts are not touching. 

 

 

20171008_231751.jpg

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50 minutes ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

Contacts are not touching 

 

F*CK ME X 1,000 etc....

 

Time to get a test meter out and check EXACTLY where the short is then

I'd say the switch itself is suspect BUT remember the selector must contact the prongs when testing

(In safe it will break the circuit)

 

"maybe" the switch or wires is shorting on the gearbox shell itself somewhere ???

BUT if the short took place elsewhere the gun would fire on safe I would have thought

 

Also though I suspect the short in the vicinity of the trigger - who knows as it has been rewired ??

If the mosfet failed - why didn't somebody just replace the mosfet ???

So has the rewire been done 101% correctly or was a short causing the mosfet to blow or give the impression the mosfet died

 

I personally would perhaps at some point consider desoldering the wires at switch and thoroughly testing switch then wires seperately

Then once pinpointing where the short is happening look to replace switch or wire

 

It does seem the switch is the area to investigate as the selector plate and semi but not in safe

It has to be around that area to me.....

 

See if the two wires - silver & red had a wafer thin join shorting them it would fire in safe

if the prongs were shorted it wouldn't fire until contacts bridged

So in my mind them damn contacts must be bridged somehow ???

 

was the switch removed and rewired/soldered when removing the mosfet wiring ???

Somewhere that trigger switch is pear shaped in my book

 

Might need to check out the wiring and get a new trigger switch

perhaps a non prong shs switch but keep copper on selector even though not needed

 

YES it is a JG v2.5 with jumbo cylinder head and std cylinder it seems than the longer cylinder/piston

WTF do makers do this - you even got the std 16 tooth sector than the 19 tooth sector

poxy ar$ey gearbox - just extending a friggin v2 but not doing it with longer teeth/piston

They just slopped a jumbo length cylinder head instead ffs

 

As for this electrical issue - I'm starting to think...

You don't need a tech - you need either a coroner to do an autopsy

or

a friggin' priest coz the bastid gun seems possessed by some weird dark spirits

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10 hours ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

 

15074981793121656300536.jpg

 

The only weird thing I can come up atm that the spring on the safety arm is coming into contact with red wire

but the silver wire would have to touching the metal box making it live for a short to take place or something ???

 

You could try to flatten that red wire down a bit though it looks like it should clear under the spring

But it looks like it might be clear just about and spring/arm does sit a good few mm above

Though there is a raised hump a little further back....

 

As the mosfet got removed - probably was a $hite cheapo one that blows as soon as it goes above 10amp

When the mosfet was removed and rewired, something likely went tits on the rewire & resoldering at switch

 

Tell you what is a little strange though - that switch

Not so much the black & white mix of it so much - had a black trolley in a white switch or vice versa in a gun or two - though it is a bit weird that you got black switch contact body with a white end cap. Should be all white I think on JG stuff that I found....

Related image

So wondering if the switch unit is now a bit of a mish mash of bits n bobs though it looks like end cap fits

Does raise some concerns though about just how well it was modified/rewired after mosfet removal

BUT - it is a but coz it is a bit hard to make out in pic....

 

By the silver wire solder joint, the tab it solders to seem to be at the back or right of switch in picture

The soldered tab is sandwiched between the black & white and looks OK

 

HOWEVER - there is a bit of copper right above the main blob of solder - this likely the other copper track

Is it bridged at all coz this would be the two tracks of the contacts and would be the same as the trolley stuck in contacts....

 

oqgR1BV.jpg

 

That switch looks suspect - a short is taking place there at some point but hard to see and figure out in pics

 

Yes those china mosfets are $hite, a decent pico ssr3 or Fire-Storm or heck knock your own 3034 for under a fiver are miles better. If the mosfet crapped out, it would have been easier to replace the mosfet - even a Gate nano whould have been fine, any bit of resoldering wouldn't have mattered coz the gun needed redoing when rewiring back to std non-mosfet wiring

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