Mos' TM VSR upgrade logs

[Monty]

So could anyone recommend some white 0.4g BBs ?

 

Proball .40g, ASG .40g BB's if you can find them in white.

[Mos]

I will watch that video, though I remember half of it is him telling us how the hop works.

 

Will watch though. I will try and find white BBs and that would be awesome.

 

Thanks guys

[proffrink]

Yeh, it is a pretty long-winded video.

[Guest PT247]

 

Proball .40g, ASG .40g BB's if you can find them in white.

Personally would choose Geoff's over Proballs in a 0.4g weight, if they did a 0.43g I'd go with that over Proballs too.... Not dissing Proballs at all, they are the best 0.43g BBs on the market atm!

[Mos]

As long as you can see these Geoffs, that's okay. Was really annoying trying to zero my scope, couldn't see the BBs at all. Only place I'd use those black BBs is when I've got an ace sniper. And can rely on it to be accurate, then I'd just use them

 

But for now, when I need white BBs to see my hop and to zero my scope.

[proffrink]

They are indeed white.

[Guest PT247]

Geoffs .40g - at 20m I doubt the ammo was the problem though. Get them from here: https://www.facebook.com/Outdoor-and-Tactical-512090635639823/

 

just liked their fb page and messaged them, very fast reply and very helpful too. In the distant future there is a possibility they will do 0.43g BBs too!

[Samurai]

But for now, when I need white BBs to see my hop and to zero my scope.

Put up a white sheet of paper as a target if you have dark BBs.

[Mos]

Put up a white sheet of paper as a target if you have dark BBs.

Ok, what sort of range should I put this white paper up?

 

I guess I do it at multiple ranges starting at 25 yards, 50 yards, 75 yards, 100 yards (if I can reach)

[proffrink]

Use goddamn Google. Setting your hop must be literally the most well documented tutorial within airsoft.

 

These people are pretty well natured and will probably answer you anyway, but haven't you used enough of their time on having the basics explained to you? Do some of the leg-work yourself or it's extremely rude.

[Mos]

Sorry, first off.

 

But I have an idea of how going to set up the hop. Look along the barrel and fire with hop off, then gradually go down (in terms ,of hop arm going down) pun till I have got the sweet spot.

 

zeroing in your scope requires hop to be set.

 

I'll aways say thank you at the end of a post even if people are pissed off at me (and blimey that's a lot of people lol) but thank you none the less, as I've learnt a lot through you guys (and still more to come) but don't get me wrong, I have done research.

[Mos]

Went to try and zero in the scope and when firing I screwed up the co2 bulb screwing, and it leaked in the adapter.

 

We then took it out, took out th bulb, and went to put a new one into the adapter and now it doesn't fit in there. Th bulb doesn't fit into the adapter.

 

Thoughts are - the coldness contracted the metal, so I'm just going to leave the adapter to recoil back to position, then I'll see.

[proffrink]

There's a hole in the bottom of the adapter to poke it out with an allen key or something if you need to, but yeh the cold is the issue.

[Mos]

UPDATE LOG (forgot number let's say... 4?)

 

Took gun to garage, and sole purpose was to zero in the scope.

 

So, we setup a target, some paper zip tied to a small ladder at about 20 metres from where we stood.

 

We then drew a circle with a cross hair target in the middle.

 

Now from 20 metres away we clamped the gun to a workers table? And set the scope to the crosshair. Long story short, we then set the scope to where it actually hit. (But, it was inconsistent, so we were doing it for like an hour and a half, until we hit the target) then we extended the range to about 35-40 metres, and hit the target (Simon, yeah we named him after one of my school teachers) and hit it nicely.

 

Oh the target is the size of a slightly skinny torso.

 

Then brother got distracted and started making a table out of tyres and plastic, I had a slightly warm sausage roll, and then we were back to business, just fine tuning it. Making the hop straight, or range & accuracy efficient.

 

Then for a laugh we took it out to 70 metres, first shot I hit the target, SO HAPPY! As it was only Thursday I couldn't hit a small bucket from 20 metres. Then the gas ran out, so we called it a day, and had been doing the shooting for a good 2 and a half hours. And thought "yeah, let's have a BBq" (weather is lovely isn't it?)

 

With a few upgrades (bucking and a drop in nub, though unsure of which nun as of yet) we should be getting consistent, instead of hitting 1 every 2. I'll be hitting every time. Without having to count for slight BB hook at the end, which I think is due to the gun not being level, but you know.

 

What I used:

TM VSR:

Mancraft SDiK

8 bar = 500 FPS with 0.2g BBs (but shot with 0.4g BBs)

Biro mod.

 

Plenty of sun

Lots of water

Sausage roll(s)

[Mos]

1000 GEOFF .4g white BBs have been ordered. When they arrive (not sure when) but have a feeling they'll be quick, I'll take them to the garage and set up my scope AGAIN, set hop too, set hop to straight, see the path of BB in the field, adjust scope accordingly. Lovely.

[Mos]

THOUGHTS:

 

So, we tested this sniper rifle (yes I've got the hang of it now, now time to work on using google !) and with the white BBs made by GEOFFS, we could see the flight path of the BB, and we found that the BB likes to what I'd call 'hook' at around 50 metres or so.

 

I'm led to believe this is caused by uneven pressure on the BB- so the plastic biro thing is uneven, or at an angle.

 

How I'm going to fix this, well, I'm going to test it again, for reliable and consistent results, set the hop again, get it at the just under 500 FPS with .2 range and give it a go.

Then open up the gun and see if it is uneven, then try to make It as even as possible. Then reassemble the weapon give it a fire, if it is still hooking, I'll probably go to the skirmish no matter what and have to manually count for the hook, so aim right to the person a bit. This is not ideal, as the sniper is made for precision, but as you all know sniper rifles take time just with twiddling with bits and nobs. Then probably invest in a non flat hop/r hop system, and probably get a drop in bucking with a nub a long with it

 

 

Thanks for reading. Have a good day !

[Sacarathe]

THOUGHTS:

 

So, we tested this sniper rifle (yes I've got the hang of it now, now time to work on using google !) and with the white BBs made by GEOFFS, we could see the flight path of the BB, and we found that the BB likes to what I'd call 'hook' at around 50 metres or so.

 

I'm led to believe this is caused by uneven pressure on the BB- so the plastic biro thing is uneven, or at an angle.

 

How I'm going to fix this, well, I'm going to test it again, for reliable and consistent results, set the hop again, get it at the just under 500 FPS with .2 range and give it a go.

Then open up the gun and see if it is uneven, then try to make It as even as possible. Then reassemble the weapon give it a fire, if it is still hooking, I'll probably go to the skirmish no matter what and have to manually count for the hook, so aim right to the person a bit. This is not ideal, as the sniper is made for precision, but as you all know sniper rifles take time just with twiddling with bits and nobs. Then probably invest in a non flat hop/r hop system, and probably get a drop in bucking with a nub a long with it

 

 

Thanks for reading. Have a good day !

 

All of this to just give up?

 

If it doesn't even shoot straight or stable don't worry about chonographing it with .2g. It is desirable that it does hit under 500 FPS with .2g, but not if you're not shooting .2g BBs in the field.

 

Get the gun firing correctly (and at correct joules) with the target ammo weight and then worry about site chronographs:

 

Insisting upon chrono at 0.2g with a 2.3 Joule gun is just inviting 'joule creep'. If they don't understand that a gun which fires over 500 fps with 0.2g ammo but fires under 2.3joules with 0.4g is not hot, would you really feel safe there?

[proffrink]

TDC tends to fix the curve issue. The new AA hop unit does it too (TDC, that is) in a way.

 

Like Sacarathe says: Crono with the weight you'll be using.

[Guest PT247]

Also you could try setting your scope to the hop rather than the gun, try shooting it with the gun slightly tilted away from the way the BB curves off and increase the angle until it flies straight, then twist the scope in the rings so the cross-hairs are then aligned in the new vertical axis.

 

You can reduce the curve a little buy adding a slither of tape to the inside of the hop chamber where the hop arm sits to reduce wobble and you could re-apply the biro mod, or buy a dangerworx type b hop arm. Or as proffrink stated get an AA hop chamber.

[Mos]

Sorry, I should've stated a few things and made them clearer:

 

I'm not giving up

When I meant with .2g BB at 500 FPS I meant .4g BBs at whatever FPS it would equate to, with the same joules as .2 with 500 FPS.

Sorry that's my bad, I quickly wrote it up before going to school...

 

Anyways, I will look into the tdc mod, as it heard a few things about it. And the AA hop unit, and probably the dangerwerx B arm, as if think the biro mod has gone to sh** and I've done it with a slight angle. Then with the b arm it should be 100% even and not angled. But, the biro mod basically makes the arm into a b arm, but I've done it in effectively, though I will give it another shot.

 

Thanks for reading

[Guest PT247]

The standard arm can twist a bit which could be the cause. Try adding a strip of tape alongside it on the hop chamber

[Mos]

The standard arm can twist a bit which could be the cause. Try adding a strip of tape alongside it on the hop chamber

I imagine this tape is for sturdiness/stop from moving?

 

This AA unit, used google and I found this:

 

Essentially does the TDC mod (as you said, yes..)

Uses a TM bucking (so I'm led to believe it will eventually tear, and I'll have to buy a new one?)

It costs 40 odd quid

Is re..

Good air seal

It either comes with an arm, or uses the stock arm

Doesn't accept dangerwerx arms.

[Hef Legend]

I imagine this tape is for sturdiness/stop from moving?

 

This AA unit, used google and I found this:

 

Essentially does the TDC mod (as you said, yes..)

Uses a TM bucking (so I'm led to believe it will eventually tear, and I'll have to buy a new one?)

It costs 40 odd quid

Is re..

Good air seal

It either comes with an arm, or uses the stock arm

Doesn't accept dangerwerx arms.

AA hop is one of the best investment, all the VSR's I've built have used them. They use VSR style buckings, so PDI, TM, SHS, FIrelfy all work. It's pretty much a drop in TDC and works very well.

 

Only common issue is with regards to the BB feeders, but it's easy to set up once you know what you're actually doing.

[Mos]

If you've been reading this thread.

 

You'd know, I always know what to do. And I never get stuck !

 

Anyways:

 

This AA hop unit is great, the reason why I'd get it, is for a more consistent hop unit, as it's more sturdy and after each shot it won't move a little (pretty sure that's one of the main things about it)

 

Will stop what I call the 'hooking' at around 50 metres.

Comes with a hop arm, but I have a feeling there's 2 hop arms? As the tut I looked up was one of those airsoftpro replicas of the AA one, and that had two arms.

Comes with a nub

TM style buckings (so it might be worth buying both bucking and hop unit at the same time)

 

Thanks for reading.

 

Not TM style, vsr style.

[proffrink]

There's one hop arm on the AA one. The Airsoft Pro is like the PDI one - two arms. I've owned a PDI and AA one (though the PDI one was for an L96 and probably not a fair benchmark) and can say the AA one is better.