G&G cm16 srl battery issues

[Ross49]

What battery are you running?

About 7.4 1450mah 20c lipo

[Sitting Duck]

Seems like the ETU "might" be the problem....

Zero One have recently added this stuff on the ETU guns FFR & SR range....

 

G&G’s new ETU includes technology that will automatically stop the gun from operating if it detects the battery voltage is too low. Once you disconnect the battery it will likely still operate in guns without this technology, as those products will allow the battery to drain completely flat. This means when using a G&G gun with ETU, your battery must be fully charged or the automatic cut off feature will kick in. This feature is designed to protect your battery as well as the advanced control board inside. To avoid disappointment ensure your batteries are discharged and freshly charged before use. This is known as ‘cycling’ your batteries. This technique also improves battery performance by promoting battery life and memory.

This product requires a 9.6v battery to operate. Lower voltage batteries will not be recognised by the ETU....

(still think this is bollox but there ya go....)

 

Now boring bit again.....

back to voltage regulators - simple 78xx series used to cheaply drop juice to req voltage

only problem is if input gets too close to output it can go weird....

Number Output(V) Min input(V)

7805 +5 7.3

7806 +6 8.3

7808 +8 10.5

7810 +10 12.5

7812 +12 14.6

blah blah blah.......

BUT what I don't get is that many ic's have a max voltage on 5v

so if used ic's eg: gates n stuff then they would of likely used 7805 with a min 7.3v input

remember most lipo's fresh of charge hit 8.3v to a max 8.4v

well ok to use on any ic circuit board in ETU unless they added other crap like a small resistor to take the voltage down further

which sounds daft or not really required - I mean yeah they could of used a 3 or 3.3v or 4.7v regulator

Though the actual mosfet might not trigger 101% with a 3v signal - not looked into the min switch on voltage of the mosfet

Yes the 3rd burst mosfet unit could be failing - which I still think is likely given their track record with mosfets in the past

Why do I say that - coz people are reporting the led on the fet is working/blinking

So the ETU could still be operating ok

All in all it sounds like a right f*ck up on G&G's R&D dept - again

A modern day aeg should easily be able to operate on lipo's - INCLUDING 7.4v lipo's !!!

Battery space is often restricted so much that the extra cell on 11.1v means battery options might be limited

plus not everybody wants/needs to run the higher juice 11.1v lipo's which are more bulkier/expensive etc....

LiFe 9.9v are limited in range/options and not stocked by many places plus don't think they offer the same grunt as LiPo's

Making people stay on 9.6v or 10.8v nimah's - REALLY FFS ???

ON A MODERN NEWLY DESIGNED RECEIVER 3RD BURST MOSFET GUN ???

C'mon G&G, lay off the drugs a bit and either just make the guns reliable with tried n tested old skool stuff in there

or stop trying to re-invent the wheel coz your modern square wheels you are coming up with are $hit

They are bringing out a AK105 type gun soon with ETU, now AK's depending on battery location

may have just the stick type under dust cover so that limits range of battery even more

Stop coming out with lame ar$e excuses that battery must be 9.6v or higher

Make YOUR guns and the dumb ar$e ETU or 3rd fet compatible with all sorts of batteries

That is where the fault lies - or at the very least how about you bundle in a battery with the gun

As your badly developed internals are the problem

I hope the owners get their guns sorted, hope G&G revise their poor design

or at least offer owners a discount on having to buy another f*cking battery coz your lame ar$e guns don't like 7.4v lipo's

(yeah I wouldn't hold ya breath on that one)

soz but its bollox - 7.4v can rip plenty and I don't like being told what I can or can't run with

BTC Spectre's n stuff can run on 7.4v to 14.8v - wtf can't G&G get their $hit together ????

[MrPondlife]

That really is disappointing if that is the case. I've just spent nearly £60 on batteries and reading that only one will actually work (and that will be for 1/2 a day if I'm careful).

 

I contacted several sellers of the SR and they all told me 7.4s were fine.

 

I'm still hoping out that mine has a fault as it did run for 1/2 a day on a 7.4. So if I need to change to another 7.4 for the afternoon that I can live with.

 

I just don't want to have to shell out for even more batteries or at the least try and exchange the ones I have (as it cost a fiver to send the bloody things back!)

 

My friend is testing all my batteries (1 brand new) and liasing with Zeroone where I bought it from so I should have some news next week.

 

Worse case scenario, I ask for it to be exchanged for a gun with out mosfet I guess?

[Sitting Duck]

Shouldn't bring out half ar$e designs imho

 

I think I read the ETU is just a drop in replacement for conventional trigger switch

so if the ETU is at fault then it should in theory be a simple case of putting in an ol' skool switch

 

However - the 3rnd burst can be toggled on/off by placing in semi and holding trigger for 10secs

Now I do not know if the ETU has a switch sensor for fire selector plate position

knowing its in semi with trigger held down 10secs after single shot fired....

In that case replacing the ETU with convention switch may screw up with 3rnd burst option

 

Or if the 3rd burst is all inside the fet and programmed on/off regardless of ETU or simple switch

 

Interesting to note to BOT 300 or 300 BOT has a normal fet and conventional switch in a classic CM receiver

so maybe the 3rnd burst is partly built into the ECU or at least relies on ETU unit to help toggle burst on/off

 

Yes it does seem the ETU range of guns have 3rnd burst - so it is all about that pile of electric junk trigger switch

 

This issue had get sorted out quick coz if the recently launched higher end £250+ Predator & Hog guns come with all this grief

then G&G may be getting a lot more pi$$ed customers

Bet ICS & Ares must be pi$$ing themselves at G&G's new developments

 

And tbh G&G should stop pi$$ing about bringing out half ar$ed designs and ideas until they got them bug free

seriously I love G&G starter guns but it when they try to innovate and rush out stuff they get their ar$es kicked

I wonder how far they got making all this bollox - looks impressive at first....

 

 

But with their new and not so improved reliability enhancements they could be heading for a hiding to nothing

and what puts me off apart from more G&G crap to go wrong....

If/when stuff fails or you are thinking about upgrades - uhm ergh lot of bespoke stuff in there

meaning you are really limited for options of get ya dremmel out and hack away

or if it is really crap replacing most of that new crap for a tried n tested classic box like Lonex etc....

 

MARS - Modular Assault Rifle System - ffs whatever next ???

(didn't Nerf do some fancy stuff)

 

 

Go to 1:35 and read the instructions....

 

Don't use Batteries over 20c ???

ffs - make your bloody minds up G&G

old fets couldn't take 11.1v lipo's in Top Tech fetted guns

3rnd burst - must be 9.6v or over to work

MARS don't use lipo's over 20c ????

 

uhmm is there anything else - is ok to put little plastic balls in the magazine

or will that void the warranty - pah warranty, like it was highly engineered when it left factory

 

only Mars we need is

 

 

Soz - I'm being a bit harsh, normally the basic tried n tested stuff from them is pretty good - especially starter guns

Its when they try to punch above their weight they come unstuck trying to reinvent stuff - badly

I say badly coz they have made bad choices and invented crap stuff that just simply don't work reliably again n again

Alas G&G have still not got it quite right - shame coz they "look" lovely

[MrPondlife]

Been advised this battery made solve my problems...

 

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html

 

But potentially void my warranty with the seller

[Lozart]

Been advised this battery made solve my problems...

 

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html

 

But potentially void my warranty with the seller

 

Why would it void the warranty? The manufacturer supplies the warranty not the seller.

[Sitting Duck]

won't void warranty & won't be too crazy on the lame blue sticker

"Powerful Motor" its ferrite so you may get into 20rps but not much more than 22rps

especially with 20c lipo

 

Just absolute bollox that G&G make or force you to use 9.6v plus or gun won't function correctly

it is their modules or tech designers are at fault - ggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

stock basic guns may not be 11.1v lipo ready but these have mosfet so will be fine

(well doubt if AoE done but 2nd tooth probably removed, but still doubt if she will like insane rof out of box)

 

possible things that "might" void warranty....

 

replacing tamiya with deans - hmm maybe but could argue you only got dean lipo's ffs

 

checking motor connectors/swapping out motor etc....

(so don't strip threads or heads)

mind you if they put the things together correctly you wouldn't need to check all this stuff out so much

yes motor connectors could come undone....

but if they see you ballsed up the threads/heads you can imagine some ar$ey retailers getting all anal

 

obviously stuff like opening up gearbox is definate no no & no bloody way no

 

but certain stuff is just part of general ownership

as long as you don't go too far or muller it in process

[MrPondlife]

I'm now trying to swap the gun for a different model as there seems to be lots of complaints about this model and the mosfet/etu set up. I just don't feel confident in the gun now and would be worrying that the thing will just stop as soon as the battery's drop below a certain level.

 

Just hoping zeroone will exchange it.

[ImTriggerHappy]

I'm now trying to swap the gun for a different model as there seems to be lots of complaints about this model and the mosfet/etu set up. I just don't feel confident in the gun now and would be worrying that the thing will just stop as soon as the battery's drop below a certain level.

 

Just hoping zeroone will exchange it.

Try a different manufacturer not just a different gun.

[Sitting Duck]

An 11.1v lipo will be ok

comes off charge with max 4.2v x 3 cells = 12.6v max juice

each cell will run down to its rating of 3.7v

then once it hits around 3.3v volts you should change battery anyway

(lipo alarms kick in about 3.3v)

 

it seems that G&G designed it to work on 11.1v lipo

 

Nah - think they screwed up a bit in my mind

 

Suffice to say - people having grief should try to test it out on 11.1v

 

Personally I think this is a major balls up and if G&G had any f*cking sense they should of told buyers first

or chucked in a lipo battery to begin with - yeah don't hold your breath

but on higher end guns I really think they bloody should of chucked in a £10 11.1v lipo

 

coz they and/or their guns look right tossers with this stupid daft problem - so easily avoided

(cue Trigger saying yeah avoided by not buying G&G)

 

Edit - again

 

Wasn't the Scorpion Evo recommended to run on 11.1v lipo

don't know if that had fancy whilstle bursty pooh fire modes or what but sure somebody on here said it needs 11.1v really

 

Thing is 11.1v isn't that bad if gun has mosfet - just if gun is tweaked a bit you can get 11.1v performance on just 7.4v

plus batteries are cheaper/smaller which most guns you don't get much room to begin with

 

So in my mind G&G should of made it better, or tested it more

or if they knew it needed extra juice it should said - 11.1v lipo on box or chuck one in ffs

[Lozart]

 

Wasn't the Scorpion Evo recommended to run on 11.1v lipo

don't know if that had fancy whilstle bursty pooh fire modes or what but sure somebody on here said it needs 11.1v really

 

 

 

Yes, they recommended an 11.1v for that. As you say if it's been fitted with a decent mosfet then it should be no issue but G&G need to make that clear in th eowners manual and all their presale literature. Especially after having their other mosfet fitted guns blow up on 11.1's.

 

I'm staring to think Trigger may have a point with G&G right now. They seem to be rushing to market with techy upgrades that aren't ready just so they're not seen to be lagging behind the competition!

[Sitting Duck]

 

Yes, they recommended an 11.1v for that. As you say if it's been fitted with a decent mosfet then it should be no issue but G&G need to make that clear in th eowners manual and all their presale literature. Especially after having their other mosfet fitted guns blow up on 11.1's.

 

I'm staring to think Trigger may have a point with G&G right now. They seem to be rushing to market with techy upgrades that aren't ready just so they're not seen to be lagging behind the competition!

 

For just once we might be in agreement - nearly

 

F*ck it - just bought a FFR 2 and will see wtf is up with this crap

(yes Trigger if its crap I'll have it)

[ImTriggerHappy]

Difference is the scorpion evo still works on a 7.4v lipo. The recommendation was to get the best out of it.

Simple fact of the matter is you should be able to have a mosfet and an etu and still be able to turn your gun over on an 8.4v nimh.

 

Manufacturers need to sort out the existing issues before worrying about the bells and whistles.

 

Its about time someone brought out a v2/v3 gearbox that actually works properly.

You shouldn't need to correct aoe, just make the piston slightly longer.

You shouldn't need to shim gears. The gears should be on axles and the trigger unit should slot into place better. Imagine a gearbox where everything just slots into place perfectly and you can close the gearbox without playing finger twister.

 

The whole design is crap but instead of sorting it they just give you a mosfet and ask you to applaud.

 

Ics have made some strides but not enough.

Krytac did better but then replaced the 3k motor with a 2k motor for the UK market (wankers)

A few other manufacturers have done little bits in the same direction.

 

G&G just tried to wrap a turd in tinsel, the sort of tinsel that catches fire and burns your house down.

 

It would be nice to just buy an aeg that works properly and well because the mechanics are sound. All the gizmos shouldn't be needed.

[Sitting Duck]

G&G just tried to wrap a turd in tinsel, the sort of tinsel that catches fire and burns your house down.

 

I do that anyway with my lipo's

 

I had my eye on one for a while, 10% + £12:50 ewallet means it is £135 delivered

 

gonna leave it stock, well fit a stubby stock on there, deans on there, bring it to Mall as a spare for you

go nutz with it on 7.4v 9.9v LiFe & have 11.1v block batteries and see how soon it goes tits up

 

if it craps out - deffo says Trigger

well I'll rip it apart and bodge - ergh I mean sort it properly with normal switch and Kong burst fet

 

Jeeeez - G&G sort your act out ffs

Bang goes my new years resolution of not buying any more guns....

But forget speculating what problem is

Got one - blow it up and see exactly wtf is up with it

(its a G&G says Trigger - oh shut up and lets see)

[ImTriggerHappy]

 

bring it to Mall as a spare for you

 

Might need it my Sigs got one of those progressive illnesses. Or its just fucking possessed.

[Sitting Duck]

Gun arrived

 

needs 11.1v - lightly used 7.4v said no go at all

then kinda worked then stopped - voltage 8.04v

 

manual says 7.4v lipo or 9.6v nimah they recommend those batteries first in that order

if using 3 cell arrange wires carefully don't go above 25c coz our stuff is $hit and can't take it

(ok last bit I made up but think it will be in the reprint of owners manual)

 

 

deffo putting stubby fixed on here - GOS-V3 has f*ck all room - 11.1v will only be a 1000mah

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html

that is probably best limited capacity battery that the Predator owner ordered

 

seriously limited room to squeeze in a 11.1v lipo - jeeeeeez

 

Deffo think they put in some dumb ar$e voltage regulator in ETU say 7805 or 7806 that screws up at 8v

Think most of the ic stuff on the ETU could have run fine with a 3.3v regulator and worked fine with lower volts

 

The space available is poxy - looks nice but still poxy

 

Yeah might work ok on a fresh 8.4v but if it drops much - very little it just goes all qwirky

perfect on fresh lipo @ 8.4v it might be - get out on field - game or two gun goes pear shape

 

Nice one G&G - even write the manual with a 2 cell lipo recommendation

FFS - tell your guys to get their stuff together before coming up with any more brainwaves & square wheels

[ImTriggerHappy]

I

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Told

 

 

 

 

 

 

You

 

 

 

 

 

 

So

 

 

 

 

 

 

☺

[Lozart]

I

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Told

 

 

 

 

 

 

You

 

 

 

 

 

 

So

 

 

 

 

 

 

☺

 

Yes, we get it. Now change the record.

[ImTriggerHappy]

 

Yes, we get it. Now change the record.

Hush you, if I can have a dig at SD's G&G addiction I am taking it.

 

To be fair its actually a shame because at least they are trying to do something different unlike so many other manufacturers who are just churning out the same old thing.

[Sitting Duck]

Well I'll leave it as is internally until after Mall

Will chrono it & change stock by weekend, check she is ok

Bring her to Mall to get abused like cheap whore

Then afterwards think about ripping her open and see what is what in there

 

If having to run on 11.1v then certain insane neodym motors would be unwise

a decent ferrite - maybe even stock G&G - guessing its their blue motor in there

see what gears are in there - should be 18:1 unless they dropped a poxy 8 tooth bevel in

change out the piston coz G&G piston headss are not great seals blah blah blah

260mm barrel says spec - could try a 275mm tbb I think I got around with suppressor

 

But deffo only need a modest neodym on that juice if owners want a faster/responsive gun

(seriously if ETU's need 11.1v - you do not wanna just chuck in shs motors or lonex mofo's without more work)

 

I'm not bothered too much - now will get to use some block 11.1 lipo's that I got around

but other owners need to try and grab them batteries sooner rather than later

coz your options are gonna be limited on the GOS-V3 stock

 

Hopefully it should all work now - well until the mosfet itself goes pop

 

Yup others have tried new stuff and more often than not a rush new & improved idea has flopped

or not performed as well as expected...

There is no substitute of a basic tried & tested design but assembled with care & attention - Krytac TM etc....

 

Maybe in time stuff like this might work as expected - sometimes they are remembered more for failure than success

 

Anyway - ETU owners - get one of the batteries to try sooner rather than later is my advice

 

Oooh - ps - many thanks to LWA on having a 10% off and using my E-wallet etc....

which enabled me to get this at a bloomin' good price and see wtf all the fuss was about

 

Hmmmmm - couple of things I've noticed.....

Removed the stock and the mosfet unit - well it ain't that robust looking....

lots of little bits on there - nothing stands out to look like a chunky actual mosfet

the wires are 18awg and then there is a tiny 4pin connector running I presume from the ETU inside gearbox

G&G usually run both motor wires down the back of pistol grip - good job really

coz with 4 wires running to ETU unit getting a positive wire behind motor would be pushing it

 

Think with thinner 18awg wires & lame looking mosfet board - that is reason why 25c is absolute max rating

Though mental motor sucking loads of amps through deans n stuff will deffo make that board/wires a bit warm/melt/blow I reckon

 

Looking at the Kong Burst Wizard fet - 16awg silicone, bit thicker unit but shorter robust looking unit

designed to work with nigh on any type of gun/setup on ol' skool electric switch

 

Yeah - can see the ETU stuff coming out of this though will try to resist ripping her open further as Mall is just over a week away and got enough bits n bobs to finish on guns and around house - or Mrs Duck won't let me out to play

But yeah deffo not a heavy duty robust bit of electrics I feel to go nutz with as it is

 

Another thing I noticed after removing flash hider - friggin' outer barrel isn't sitting bang in center of RIS

yup it is center left-right but top-bottom it is sitting say 3 or 4mm above center ???

don't look pi$$ed & running upwards - think ris or how it all sits the outer barrel is 3/4mm above exact center

Was thinking about stubby suppressor - say 35-40mm thick by 75-100mm long

but it may look a bit odd or tight fit if not bang centered to barrel/RIS - sod it

 

More I think about it - ETU not a good idea & for all the 3rnd burst gimmick

Think normal switch & wired to basic fet would of been better with better wire

7.4v compatible, replace fet with programmable burst fet if user wished

7.4v lipo - more cheaper battery options to fit in stock.....

yeah - not such a super duper gimmick in my book anyway

[Sitting Duck]

OK - getting boring now I know but in case anybody is still interested in this crap

some pics........

 

Here is the so called mosfet that looks like it will crap out at any moment

and against a Kong 2 programmable burst wizard mosfet

(got an Avacado - which is not a mosfet btw but can't be ar$ed to find it)

Kong is smaller but a bit thicker - reckon they need to design supply & output at either end

rather than at same end - Kong is a bit thicker but should just fit down stock tubes

(would of been better with wires at opposite ends but means a new pcb design I guess)

 

 

 

Next - front barrel just a smidge off true center but got suppressor on there ok

this pic has old stock sights which I now changed to the sexier sights I think

as fitted to FireHawk & CM18's - anyway suppressor goes on there ok

 

 

 

Finally - Stubby Stock fitted, needs a little trim/sand as cheapo stubby is just knocked out on the cheap

No bigger than GOS-V3 (above stubby) - easily should fit in the 11.1v block lipo (12.4v aprox)

Suppressor fitted with FireHawk sights that I think are better looking and all that

Plus the std white lettering CM - Combat Machine receiver fitted to the tried & tested starter guns below

deffo a nicer receiver no question

 

 

 

Now me personally - the whole ETU is flawed - most of the crap is on the so called mosfet board

it does not look like it can take much juice at all - I see no mofo mosfet capable of increased load later on

on top of all that - if you set the 3rnd burst on full auto - the moment you replace battery it goes back to full auto

well it seems like it always does - maybe if you wait 5 or 10 secs but reports do confirm losing 3rnd setting

so you gotta reprogram again - not a biggy but

other better units like Kong and probably Gate BTC etc... hold all the settings provided you wait 5 secs after battery install

(you program these super duper mofo's by trigger pulls in first 5 secs - bit of headache at first but many many options available)

 

The FFR 2 @ £155 is a nice buy let down by the one thing G&G were trying to promote - ETU

 

My own personal opinion is forget this ETU crap - really

put in a normal box but wire in some decent wire like Alpha Eco or silver wire

fit a "normal" mosfet and "normal" switch like the 300 BOT

then people can run guns on compact 7.4v or wtf they want

they can easily change out the weak std fet in there to a better fet if they wish

 

Heck - do AoE, fit a better piston head/seals/nozzle

(weird thing is G&G do o-ring nozzle spares - so wtf don't ya fit one ffs)

at least steel bushings under the gears - bronzey or bearings on top

Then people won't have to mess about sorting out stuff properly later ffs

 

bung on some more dosh of course but set against dumb ar$e ETU costs coz its crap

Then you would recover some consumer confidence which tbh is starting to drop lately

 

Receiver, gun design - yeah ok the v3 stock looks nice I guess - brilliant pricing also

easily could fit 275mm in there - maybe I will drop in a 300mm with suppressor

(would of liked a tiny stubby Swiss Arms one @ about 65mm length but sod it for now)

 

Yeah the sights - I think the other flip sights are better but just my take on the finishing touches

 

 

Yeah - just drop the ETU crap it sucks I'm afraid

even with the 11.1v - 12.4v I did have one weird hissy fit this morning

(the gun/etu not me, I'm always having meltdowns)

 

anyway - that is my gun - cheers LWA and half cheers to G&G for making a nice looking gun

(shame it sucks a bit on the electrics still)

 

Hope with a beefier 11.1v lipo the owners of G&G ETU guns have less headaches

hope so but only in time we shall see how sturdy this crap is

Me - I'm going back to ol' skool after the Mall I think

[Thunder 119]

Hi Graham,

 

 

 

Thanks for your feedbacks.

 

 

 

May we have which airsoft shop you purchased this rifle?

 

 

 

Since its the cut-off point on MOSFET/ETU is higher than 7.4V Li-po/8.4V/9.6V Ni-Mh, which caused this situation. We have fixed this problem and the new MOSFET/ETU for 8.4V/9.6V Ni-Mh will be advised to our UK dealers in this week for the replacement on all ETU models which had been sold out.

 

 

 

Please let me know which airsoft shop you purchased CM16 SRL from, then I could contact with our dealer about this issue.

 

 

 

Let me know if any question.

 

Sincerely.

 

 

Received this from g&g

[Sitting Duck]

Just seems like even with the new revised mosfet unit in there you will never really get gun 101% working on a 7.4v lipo

 

G&G must know who the f*ck the main UK Retailers they sell to, the gun serial blah blah blah against date they stated using moody units

 

Even with a working original unit, or the new improved/fixed unit with lower voltage requirements - still say just use 11.1v

Lozart was right (again)

It does seem to need and run better on more juice - it has a lame motor so it won't be ultra mental

around 20rps is ok for many on here

[Pinathon]

Hey SD

 

Can you tell me if the burst wizard or any of the gate fets are a direct replacement for the g&g Fet on the g&g Sr series?

 

I assume they are, but do you know what the 4 wires coming from the etu are for? I assume -\+ for 2 of them but what are the extra 2?

 

Also, if they are needed do you know where I would need to wire them to on a diff fet?

 

Thanks

 

Andrew

[Sitting Duck]

Hey SD

 

Can you tell me if the burst wizard or any of the gate fets are a direct replacement for the g&g Fet on the g&g Sr series?

 

I assume they are, but do you know what the 4 wires coming from the etu are for? I assume -\+ for 2 of them but what are the extra 2?

 

Also, if they are needed do you know where I would need to wire them to on a diff fet?

 

Thanks

 

Andrew

 

nope - in a word....

 

read these essays for more info....

 

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29958-new-member-g-g-cm16-predator-firing-issue/

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/30215-single-fire-lock-up/

the last one explains the differences between BTC Spectre or ACSU that fit inside box

and Gate or Kong Burst that in effect guess the burst settings - adjustable but still guess or timings set on unit

Gate/Kong will need a normal trigger switch and perhaps normal selector plate to turn it back to normal trigger unit

The ETU unit inside the gearbox is also available as drop in replacement for other CM machines as a kit for about £40 inc burst unit

But what the ETU unit has is 4 wires coming off it back to burst unit in stock tube

yes it is wired or coloured as 2 black and 2 red wires but tbh I am not sure of the pinouts of them without a test meter

I am guessing - really guessing in fact and please do NOT take this at all coz I'm probably wrong.....

There are 3 micro switches on the unit -

trigger switch for firing

cut off lever switch to indicate sector position on semi/burst

plus a tiny 3rd micro switch behind selector plate to indicate if on full auto or not for burst mode in auto

I would of assumed that the layout of the wires would of been

1 x supply/posi signal

then 3 wires from 3 switches going live/high returning to unit so it knows the exact on/off state of each switch

But due to colours - 2 sets of red/black this could also be 2 main circuits

main trigger circuit on/off - 1 set

then cut off & selector set up as a 2 way switch to cancel each other out

But my hunch and it is only a hunch and at best is a very wild guess is that the wires to me sound like first guess:

1 supply wires and 3 signal wires returning to unit

BUT - I DO NOT KNOW FOR SURE SO DON'T FFS TAKE THIS AS EVEN A HALF GUESS !!!!

I could find out even without taking the box apart by probing the unit & connector's state as gears/trigger operate

but atm not bothered coz I'm trying to see if she can handle a bit more power with a neodym motor/rewire

She is in total bits atm, bronzey bushings out, AoE corrected but deliberating piston/piston head setup and rewire etc....

Now it might have been possible to convert the G&G burst/mosfet unit to a BTC Chimera unit with some careful studying

as G&G seem to have used or copied a similar thing to the Chimera in having switch unit inside and seperate mosfet unit

with data/signal wires running back to Chimera so to speak.....

But price/stock and tbh the G&G micro switches aren't exactly that robust or heavy duty looking either.....

So if you wish to swap out the burst/mosfet pcb from G&G to another type then it is very likely you will be going back

to conventional trigger switch/trolley system getting knock out by cut off lever etc.... on the traditional setup we are used to

Which entails normal switch + Gate/Kong mosfets and forget the 4 signal wires

They won't respond to the other 3 wires - they only have 1 signal wire to turn on/off the mosfet

Now it might but I really really doubt it, have a circuit inside ETU that toggles the signal wire from trigger switch on/off

but if that was the case then you wouldn't really have 4 wires - extra from other switches states going back to mosfet unit

So it seems it is a like it or lump it scenario, unless you might be able to use a Chimera or other mosfet board like it

or go back to old school setup in the end for Gate/Kong type prog burst mosfets

I'm coming around to the idea that G&G tried to use - the burst and way even single or auto operates means guns parks ok

no more cut off lever stuck in dead zone & not firing - so yeah I see it as a clever idea of reducing or even eliminating my gun won't fire

Unfortunately though I admit it isn't as bad as I first thought and all that

The unit and its build quality & ever changing recommended battery suggestions from G&G and owners left with a gun only working on max charge

Then as battery drops on 9.6v it stops working - jeez they should of got this reliability problem sorted way before releasing more guns with ETU

Gun runs fine on 11.1v but stock is limited for battery options

Mine is in bits - blew a fuse with a neodym motor in there so am gonna re-do it and rewire it

may have to add solder to main power tracks on pcb unit to allow more juice to flow through it

but I understand the risks of pushing the unit and very likely the actual mosfet itself may blow after all this and will go back to old school trigger if it does

G&G mosfet units were never built to handle high current or juice often crapping out on the TopTech guns in the past

Alas if you build a mosfet you gotta use genuine 3034 type mosfets that can handle switch large amps - 3034 goes up to crazy stuff

buying cheap snide copies off fleabay simply means under stress them clones will just blow when you spam on semi a lot

and I think G&G have gone for cost savings where ever they can - but we shall see if I don't kill it before its back together

So - if you are looking to replace the unit for a Gate/Kong or even a basic 3034 mosfet or F-Storm mosfet

you will have to replace the trigger switch/selector plate back to a normal v2 type as in other G&G's etc....

Avacado burst wizard is not a mosfet like the Kong type - looks like it might be but Avacado provide no trigger contact protection

so on higher juice the contacts will arc/burn out over time - don't think of getting an avacado unit - they are just a gimmick imho

Hope some of this bollox helps