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VSR SDiK build n' ting

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that's quite a tight bore mate (with all whats being going on in the bb world, most notably most/all bb's over 0.36, being hygroscopic)

 

i have a pdi 6.05 when i finally rebuild my vsr.

 

interestingly before i broke my gun, i was running with almost the same setup (i was using an external HPA tank), except a standard TM hop rubber and barrel, which worked really well.

 

what i do need to work on is sorting my mancraft regulator out and fitting it in my tail stock. Any idea how many shots you are likly to get out of a CO2 bulb?

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Agree on the bore size. I've put wider bores in everything I own where fps doesn't matter - it does make a difference to hop. Like I said, it was sold as a PDI 6.05 but was actually an Action Army 6.01 so I got a partial refund. Will probably replace it if it's screwing with the BB or getting jammed. I will say that I ran above 0.36s in my L96 for years with a 6.01 that I never swapped and didn't have a single jam, but never skirmished it and probably only ever put around 800-1000 shots through it.

 

Not sure exactly on CO2 longevity as I've only fired a handful of shots with it, but allegedly some people are getting up to 90-100 shots. The website says 50-70.

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i am lead to believe the heavy weight being hygroscopic is a fairly recent thing, i don't know if its a change in material/chemical used etc, but it dose explain why ASPUK's bb's have a use in 2 month warning on them (i think they have pulled there bb's due to quality issues atm)

 

while i do want to get my regulator in the stock, i do tend to go through around 3 30rd mags a game (long games, loads of targets) ... i dunno, ill give it a try ... but ill take 13ci tank out with me :lol:

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Just today I received some BB King 0.43s from that retailer we bought our Marui receivers from - like you say, they must be hygroscopic as they come in airtight bags and say 'try to use within 2 months' on the back. I used Madbull 0.36s in my L96, but like I say those are bought a long time ago and really I never even managed to get through two whole pots of them.

 

Just got the QD as well. I'm going to see how that could fit in there, but in theory it should make switching bulbs much more straight forward. I know Shizbazki said in that video he made that he gets around 90 shots(?). I'll be using the G&P 55rd mags I bought and I'll see what it's like. I'm not expecting to field this too seriously because sniping isn't much for me - I just enjoyed making it. Right now I can do a bulb change in about 20 seconds. With the QD I don't expect that time to reduce, but I do think it will be much more easy given that I'd be wearing gloves and also that there's no magic table I can lay it on and fiddle about with the stock.

 

Frankly, removing the butt pad is the hardest bit.

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Yeah I am going to start separating my bags into 500rd bags and adding a silica gel packet to keep them good :D I hope that works

 

How are the 55rd mags?

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Apparently the BB king ones come with a desiccant already, so I should be good on that. Will still seal them in a much larger bag with a huge packet of silica in though, heh. I bulk bought about 20 big sachets of the stuff from eBay a while ago and put them inside every airsoft container I have. I'd heard horror stories of rusty WOCs, and for a fiver I thought why the hell not.

 

Haven't got them yet actually. They were ordered from Tiger111HK about a month ago and they said they were out of stock. I asked for a refund, there was a delay of about 3 days and then magically they were back in stock. will probably arrive this week I'd imagine.

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i am considering one of the cheapy 150g pingi thingy's as you just microwave them to reuse them, and they work really well (i use the biggest one in my car in winter) B)

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Ok so I'm going to delay explanation of the hop and R-Hop bucking modification etc. until I get my 6.13 (probably two weeks). Grabbed one because I can actually fit a further 133mm of barrel into the new PDI outer, so I thought it worth doing now rather than later after all.

 

I'm going to re-do the patch on it anyway so can get more photos of the process.

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I'm going to see how that could fit in there, but in theory it should make switching bulbs much more straight forward. I know Shizbazki said in that video he made that he gets around 90 shots(?).

 

Yes i found that i got around 90 shots on one CO2 bulb, for that set up i was using a TM VSR-10 (non G-Spec) standard TM barrel, Hopup chamber and rubber on firing .20g ASG Blaster BBs with an FPS around 497FPS.

 

I know the parts, BBs and stuff does not sound great and very stock but my reason for that was to keep things as stock as possible so that anyone watching could gauge any improvement etc.

 

My VSR has had a few upgrades since then but what i am really aftr at the moment is the Action Army Hop Up chamber as it seems to be out of stock everywhere :(

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Try Airsoft entrepot (French online retailer) they had some last week when I got a spare TM receiver from them

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Ok so I got a moment to do some of the re-routing of the line whilst I wait for the new barrel. I'm going to throw up proper pictures and stuff tomorrow because it's not quite as simple as running the hose through the back if you want to keep the bedding pillar like I did. Usually removing the bedding pillar isn't an issue, but as I'm using a metal trigger guard it needs to be held in place or could crush the line easily.

Like I say, pics and stuff coming tomorrow, but whilst something else dries, here's one I took a little while ago that shows the removed material (and the trial and error crimping marks on what will be the old line):

hxy2rI5.jpg

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Ebairsoft if I recall correctly. Not the genuine article of course.

 

Edit

Here ya go: http://www.ebairsoft.com/qd26-extended-mount-30mm-scope-p-8353.html and this http://www.ebairsoft.com/qd25-mount-30mm-scope-p-8321.html

 

Be wary as I remember there being stock issues with this one. E-mail them first to check. Oh and it won't fit on a normal VSR rail (you need to buy one with the correct spacings).

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Fitting the air line to work with the stock

First off, props to Shizbazki (who's video prompted me to try this). Whilst his mod is for getting the airline to a cheek-rest, the principle for getting it past the trigger guard is very much the same though his trigger meant it wasn't quite as much of a hassle as it was for me (this shall become obvious in a second). Here's the link to his video if you want a decent tutorial and quick review on the SDiK.

 

Getting the line out of the trigger guard was probably the toughest thing to figure out given that I had a metal trigger guard and wider-than-usual bedding pillar (the silver bit). This meant removing a lot of material, but thankfully I was able to see how Shizbazki had done it without removing any material and also tried myself with the plastic trigger guard. My only bit of advice here would be that if you're using the stock, 45o trigger mechanism then it doesn't appear that you need to do any of what I'm about to do. The issues I had with re-routing the line appear to arise from the 90o trigger mechanisms and/or using a larger bedding pillar are not something that most people need to worry about.

 

bw7syUv.jpg

 

I started off my removing material from the trigger mech itself. This in itself was an issue given the angle and finish, and I'm sure you can see the marks etc. around where I made the radius/chamfer so that the line wouldn't kink on the sharp edge of the trigger mechanism. For anyone wondering, the hole that the SDiK line passes through is the one usually used by the spring retention piece. Both the 45o and 90o trigger mechanisms have this hole though on the 45o this hole appears to be slightly larger and therefore the line has more space to make the curve without kinking.

 

I did this with a Dremel stone-bit and then sanded with 400 and 800 grit paper so it was nice and smooth.

 

An additional issue I ran into was that the brass 'collar' that take the place of the spring retention piece in the SDiK was misaligned slightly with my trigger mechanism an needed light sanding on one side to allow it to sit correctly. I am not sure if this is my particular build, but given the issues I've had with fitting the trigger mech (i.e. the JG BAR having an M4 screw hole and not an M3 - like on the TM VSR) I am not surprised that I had such an issue and would probably chalk it up to my setup being basically Frankenstein's monster at this point.

 

6W2R7Zl.jpg

 

zs6vRb2.jpg

 

Next up I needed to make room in the trigger guard and pillar for the line to move through. The line is only 4mm in diameter, but the clearance is tight and you need to give the hose space to curve around the rear of the guard and enter the hole that's the entry to the void in the stock (you'll be able to see this later).

 

The cut at the top of the guard isn't anything to do with the SDiK, but is a modification that must be made to any trigger guard to fit the Airsoft Pro trigger.

 

I did this with a Dremel metal cutting wheel, then finished it with a diamond jewellers file and 400 grit wet and dry.

 

One issue I ran into on the plastic test piece is it just isn't strong enough for this kind of cutting a lot of the time. Take away too much material and it just won't have the strength to hold the tension of the screw that enters through the button of the guard and connects it to the rear of the receiver via the bedding pillar. I had to remove more material from the plastic one, so this may be worth taking note of if you do go down the 90o route. However, I'm sure a strong epoxy would be enough to re-enforce it in this case.

 

wFxF7hj.jpg

 

Here you can see the line assembled and passing out of the trigger mech, around the trigger and then out through the back. When in the body, it will sit inside the cuts made into the trigger guard and bedding pillar so that it is not squashed up against the side of the stock.

 

0H1r2wW.jpg

 

Here's the hole that the line bust enter through to reach the stock. Notice the flat shaped 'slot' on the far side near the larger cut-out that the trigger guard and trigger fall through (the image is essentially upside-down). This slot is where the rear of the trigger guard sits, and should stay that shape or you'll end up with a wobbly trigger guard if you've removed the rear bedding pillar as well. I say this because you may wish to enlarge the hole above it that the line itself enters through, but if you do then don't touch the slot shape itself.

 

gcxxNib.jpg

 

Getting the whole unit to fit in was actually a bit harder for me. Usually during a VSR assembly you can remove the trigger guard screw and then reinsert it later once everything is in position (this allows you to move the parts around and fit the guard into that 'slot'). In my case, however, I needed the screw somewhat holding the thing together so the line stayed where it should be during assembly. If it slipped to one side then it would be crushed.

 

kiFTDLG.jpg

 

Here's the result though. All fits fine and the trigger guard is solid. I may even pad out the slot a little with some JB weld then reform it with a file to make sure it's absolutely snug in there.

 

Next I'll be doing the hop and barrel again when that arrives.

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I grabbed mine from Airsoft World (put the WGC link as they're cheaper slightly). Do they have none left?

 

I have just bought one from Ehobbyasia, its on it way from HK as we speak :D

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Still not re-R-hopped with the new material because I'm lazy and waiting for my new stock to arrive. Sorry. Will do a full post on how I cut my patches and glue, seal and finish them when I get around to it. Next couple of weeks probably.

 

In the mean time, I chemically blackened my Nickel plated cylinder. Still shiny, but much, much darker now. Pretty impressed by the results given that it was about £18-worth of chemicals bought off eBay so no way near as expensive as setting up stuff for electrolysis. Plating was only 30µm thick so it was never going to get as dark as something with thicker plating anyway:

 

sIXgOQ1.jpg

 

 

Here's what tit used to look like (didn't take my own picture before because I'm an idiot):

 

airsoftpro-mb03-nickel-cylinder-detail1.

 

0.5 g/l potassium thiocyanate

25 ml/l of 10% sulphuric acid

25 ml/l 20 Vol hydrogen peroxide

 

Room temperature for about 5-10 minutes.

 

If any of you were wondering :)

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Hi Proffrink,

 

I see in first post that u bought 690 light outer barrel from pdi and to that also cap to fit a silencer. As we know, good silencer helps quite a lot in gas powered rifles but I wanted to ask if you maybe could put a picture of your whole rifle with this 190mm silencer u own. Also something for scale ?

 

I wonder becouse if I add 12 cm of longer outer barrel, 19 cm of silencer and lets say 1 cm of connection between, then this 34 cm added to my regular sized pro sniper version seems to be quite a lot :D I plan to go with longer 690 barrel but silencer max 10 cm.

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I can do this in a couple of weeks. Sorry that it can't be sooner.

 

Just so you know: The lightened outer seems a tad shorter than the stock one, but with the suppressor it's about the same length as a standard G-Spec with its suppressor on too. It's not big by any means, but I prefer it shorter (heh).

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