Lonex LT595 feed/unwind issues

[yamax87]

Hi guys, hopefully someone can help.

 

I bought a brand new LT595 (CQB version-about 100mm shorter than the standard carbine) about 6 months ago. Worked really well but I fancied some improvements to the grouping, so I bought a firefly hop. As soon as I installed it, my flash mags would no longer work as they did before. They unwound upon being inserted into the magwell with a horrible 'grinding' sound which I presume was due to the wide bucking lip on some firefly buckings (see vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CCSCKzoKpU)

 

So I presumed that the firefly bucking was junk, and that another might work better. So I got hold of a PDI AEG bucking and, before installation, checked that it wouldn't allow a BB past the lip without a little push. It didn't, so I was happy to install. I applied silicone spray to the barrel, slid on the bucking, applied more silicone to the bucking and gently pushed the barrel into the hop unit with a bit of a twist. I did, of course, check that the barrel groove married up nicely with the bucking groove and that the barrel and bucking had been pushed fully into the hop unit. I dropped some BBs down the (plastic) hop chamber from the tube running from the magazine to the barrel, and the bbs fell smoothly into the area just in front of the nozzle receptacle. Looking down the hop unit, the bucking lip formed a perfect circle. I was happy to reassemble the gun and run some test rounds...

 

...aand that's where it all went horribly wrong. The flash mag made the same grinding sound and the bbs double fed. Then they wouldn't feed at all. Then they would triple/quadruple feed. This was true for both semi and full auto. For the record, I am using blaster 0.25 bbs and have never had a problem with them before removing the original stock Lonex hop bucking.

 

Puzzled, I stripped the gun again and disassembled the hop unit. Here's where, for me, things got really wierd. The PDI hop bucking lip had stretched considerably, with BBs passing straight through the lip under gravity (as with the firefly bucking in the vid earlier).

 

I have also checked my nozzle. The nozzle reciprocates to the same position every time I pull the trigger on semi/auto. It is definitely shooting out air because I have tested this against a lightweight blanket, and the blanket always 'ripples' when semi or full auto is fired.

 

So here's my question: What's going on? Are Lonex guns simply not compatible with 3rd party hop buckings? I admit I'm a relative noob to airsoft, but I have followed tutorials (in this case, this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLB9X70miSk) to the letter when doing maintenance etc.

 

If there is an obvious solution, I apologise, but I have researched this issue pretty hard and found very little, despite feed issues being pretty commonplace in airsoft.

 

TL DR: my new LT595 does not work since I changed the bucking. Help.

[ImTriggerHappy]

Sounds like your hop up is dialled off for the feed issues.

You do still have a nub in there and know how to set your hop up correctly?

 

You can use any aeg bucking it wont cause the problems you are mentioning.

 

Look down the feed tube in your magwell and dry fire the gun can you see the nozzle going back and forth?

 

The grinding noise sounds like your mag unwinding in one hit which it shouldn't do if everything is ok with your hop unit.

[Lozart]

Don't spray silicone on the bucking when you put it on.

[dex]

As lozart says, do not spray silicone oil in the barrel or on the hop rubber. Clean that shit off!

[n1ckh]

If the bucking is in a tight hop up, a bit of saliva will help, thats what I do & it drys out not long after

[ImTriggerHappy]

A bit of fairy liquid to install into a tight hop up on the exterior but never anything on the inside of the bucking.

[yamax87]

@Imtriggerhappy yes, I am using the stock nub (black tubing) and as far as I'm aware, the hop was installed correctly. HOWEVER I will add that my method of installing the nub is not conventional. I push it into the enclosure surrounding the hop lever and then use a small flathead screwdriver to ease it last the lever. This is only because the usual method of installation seemed to give me a lot of grief, with the nub frequently falling out of place and getting lost! The method, and the rest of the hop installation, has not changed since I switched from the stock bucking, and the stock bucking always worked fine.

 

I also note the strong consensus on the silicone. Noted! Think a bit of saliva will be all that's used in future!! When I get hold of another bucking, I'll give this installation method a go

and report back, but I really appreciate the help so far. Is it possible that silicone oil has damaged the feed lip?

[Lozart]

. Is it possible that silicone oil has damaged the feed lip?

 

Yes. It will most likely have made the rubber swell out of shape.

 

 

That's why everyone said not to do it. Hindsight is a wonderful thing though and I'm sure we've all done worse.

[Rock-climby-Dave]

Hop rubbers are the exact reason we actually use silicon based lubricants at all.

 

Wouldn't have bothered putting any lube between barrel and rubber (but it'll get shot through the system, so don't worry) and I ALWAYS spray oil or grease the outside of the bucking for easy application into the hop unit.

[ImTriggerHappy]

If the end of the bucking has got distorted I would of thought it was most likely from forcing the barrel too hard into the hop unit. Seen this done loads of times, you can push the barrel too hard trying to make sure its home and force the bucking lip to bunch up onto the barrel.

If you use a silicone mix oil some of the other ingredients can cause the bucking to perish or swell easier but pure silicone oil shouldnt cause that. The reason for not using it inside is because it will stay there and collect dirt and the nub doesnt work so well if its lubricated.