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  1. Hound

    THE TM MWS thread

    Hello, I've been doing airsoft a couple of years but I'm very new to GBBR and the mk18 mws is my first gas gun so apologise for any stupid questions, any help is massively appreciated! Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know? Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday. Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.
  2. Hello all and thanks in advance for the suggestions. I’m after some advice on what upgrades to get for my 6 year old M4 ngrs. I’ve already put a bigger spring in and flat hopped it with purple bucking, I’m more after advice on the gearbox side. I only ever use it in semi so I was thinking a mosfet (bonus of it not locking up, my fault I know) and while I’m in there anything else really? My budget is £400 cheers guys.
  3. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • Wanted
    • Used or as new

    Hi after a 10.5” outer barrel for TM MWS. Would prefer steel but anything considered. thanks jay

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  4. Only kind of, and only with significant modification. The only thing I can think of that is potentially drop in, is hop up unit, but then you have to use GHK nozzles which is a ballache, because the nozzles need filing down to work with WA BCG's as they're dimensionally too big OOTB. Nozzle guides are also different, can again kind of work with some filing, but nothing is easy. God forbid you need anything in the FCG, as its a complete shitshow in compatibility, given GHK can't guarantee compatibility between their own QC and generational differences, let alone compatibility with WA.
  5. @ak2m4Finally got around to sorting out my semi-boneyard CMYA MP5K, needed a v3 spring guide from you as I disassembled the gearbox last weekend and the ball bearing cage just fell apart So, running your brushless motor along with a GATE Titan v3, and I've now a nice little nippy SMG 😁 AB is set to manual and zero percent, but anything else you recommend for GATE Titan users with your motor?
  6. Out of interest I have tried to do a field design based on this site, using the information available on the planning portal. Particularly I wanted to test whether the very linear layout of the existing mall could be made into something more playable. So I tried to implement some theories from video game level design and see if they can be applied here. The below is an illustration of a possible design and the steps I had taken. Step 1 Design preparations First we need to allocate space to the safe zone and game zone etc. There are two main existing entrances to the mall but the escalators to the south in my opinion will not be suitable because they cannot function as stairs nor fire escape, so if they are permanently turned off this entrance cannot be safely used. Therefore we can only use the north entrance as the main entrance, accordingly the safe zone (and its size requirement for 50 visitors) is placed next to the entrance lobby. The lobby has enough space for a small reception and waiting area and probably even a small shop. Staff and guest toilets are upstairs from the safe zone. My design is heavily based on the concept of "lanes" in game level design which refers to the overall pathing network of the map. The immediate issue is too many dead-ends, which is an absolute nono in level design, so before we can even design anything we need to eliminate these dead-ends by creating loops. This is achieved by demolishing the existing partition walls (where structurally permitted) to create openings near the end of these dead-ends, so they can continue their paths and loop back into the map. At the bottom space where it is only reachable via a choke point, I have walled off the path to effectively create another loop that can be meaningfully progressed from one side through another. This becomes the basic "topology" of the map that we can start to work on. Step 2 Topological interventions Looking at the topology it is immediately obvious the central lane is too connected and will attract too much action from everywhere, in game level design terms this is too many options for the player to choose from. Three precision cuts can prune this network into several distinct sectors with an acceptable number of optional paths to progress through. Due to the shape of how this is arranged, it seems natural to place the two team spawn points on left and right, so there are multiple optional sectors and paths for them to fight through. If the spawns are top and bottom it would appear too much choke points will be in the middle and the winding paths near the two spawns will not see too many action therefore wasted space. Step 3 Cover placement and distances With the schematic from the previous step we can start to sketch out where to put the covers and checking the distances. At this point I was only concerned with the gameplay itself and not think too much about scenic design, which will come later. For example I am only placing the high or low covers based on how the space can be progressed through, and trying to have a variation of tactical options for each situation. For areas near the two spawns I would also try to give advantage to the home team to try to help them progress back towards the middle. There are 4 Point Of Interests (for objectives) placed in each zone, and by measuring the distances from each spawn their positions can be tweaked for balance. By happy accident only two can be balanced and the other two is giving each of the team a slight advantage, which should be good for various game modes (e.g. bomb diffusion). This is also when fire escapes distances could be checked to make sure at every point from the map there is a suitable escape route for fire safety reasons and compliance with regulations (drawing illustrative only, not fire safety advice). (Disclaimer: This post is not professional advice. To comply with building regulations and dealing with planning conditions and other stuff please consult professionals.) Step 4 Scenic design Once we have the schematic of roughly how the tactical gameplay is conducted, we can start to make it pretty and immersive. The four "sectors" of the map makes a good template for different biomes or themes to take place. In this example I have made up some themes like "Mall" and "Factory" and "Office" and "Airfield". This can then guide how we can choose what objects to put up as cover, and what kind of non-functional decorative doodads to put up on walls and so on. For example in the "Mall" each of the rooms can be a different vendor with different themes e.g. restaurant or fashion shop or phone shop etc. which influences the atmosphere or feel or even distribution of covers of each space. Again for example the "Factory" can be heavily decorated with fake pipes or barrels. And in the "Airfield" with decorations associated with an airport like check-in counters or duty-free shops and so on. Notice I have put the "Airfield" to the south area to make use of the high level of natural lighting to suit the atmosphere, and the "Factory" in the middle so it is darker. Step 5 Detail designs and construction and so on (no image) The remaining steps are just realising the interior design, prop design, signage placement, lighting, etc. to generally follow the themes of each zone or room. I don't have a drawing here because this can be heavily influenced by the aesthetic taste of the business operator and their budget and so on. This is also where the practical and safety details to be added like fire escape signage, or transitional thresholds from safe zone to game area, or special floor markings etc. In this example there may also be visibility concerns because the glass curtain walling to the south (facing the high street) may need to be blacked out to prevent pedestrians from seeing the RIFs, so is the entrance lobby to the north. In terms of construction, the decorations and covers and props and other doodads can be simple pieces of woodwork or metalwork. There could even be interactive elements e.g. electronic or manually operated installations. It can be really creative and use savaged car parts or heavy machines and so on as cover or decoration. Once construction is complete and the necessary props added, the site should be functional and playable and rest is getting outside of the scope of map design. In conclusion, this is just a sketch exercise for me to dabble into airsoft field design but I think this map that I have drawn should play fairly well and look fairly immersive given some creativity and budget. Any criticism and suggestions are very welcome.
  7. Sorry but with all those issues and the time you've spent messing with it you should send it back for a refund or the seller should at least offer a partial refund, they can't have been in the dark about its condition I'm fed up with people getting dicked over with sales. Even if the seller claims to not know anything is wrong with the gun and let's be honest the majority of the time they do and it's them that have fucked about with it and claimed they didn't know (not saying it's the case with this particular sale but it happens alot) How was the gun advertised? With just a minor thing that needs fixing?
  8. Don’t buy anything until you have actually handled a few, and spoken to the owner on what they have had to do/fix etc see what people run at your local sites
  9. I was going to say that if you're playing CQB, you can run a GBB pistol primary effectively, and if you get the right one, you can dress it up in any carbine kit you like. However, Apocalypse is a hundred acre woodland site, so I'd definitely go AEG there. And of course rent first and try airsoft out a few times before buying anything (except footwear and maybe eyepro). I suspect that OP may be listing what he wants, rather than what he has.
  10. I ordered one of the WADSN PTTs from ali and it's been working great, just had to return the pair of Not Comtac IIs because I bought the non active version so it was just a microphone/headset and I couldn't hear anything with them on 😅, will order the slightly more expensive ones from there when I get the spondoolies in. Scope packaging gave me a good laugh. It is not scope. It is Vision King
  11. If you’re just getting into the hobby, my advice as disheartening as it is, is simply - don’t. The maintenance and upkeep, as well as the cost of magazines, the limited ammo, the weather, the type of gas and play style differences are massive factors. Based on your budget, you’re already setting your sights low. However, I think one of the most forgiving and easier GBBR’s to get started with is a WE G36. Cheap, reliable, and mags are robust. Alternatively look through classifieds and see if you find anything that’s within budget.
  12. Anything online needs a loicence. https://www.gamblingcommission.gov.uk/public-and-players/guide/how-to-run-a-lottery-or-fundraiser People give you money in the expectation of not being sent anything in return. What could possibly go wrong?
  13. Not true. If anything, the shorter the better for lifting heavy BBs. Jmason, you should give this thread on the airsoft sniper forums a read. Despite being nearly 15 years old, the principles are still very much the same https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/the-holy-grail-of-building-your-dmr-aeg.892/ Basically eliminating movement, vibrations, and air leaks to create the most consistent performance you can. And to be a bit helpful in a succinct way, you probably want a barrel of 300-400mm with a full cylinder for a good air volume ratio. You can work out your own cylinder's volume exactly with this calculator and ruler. http://airsofttech.dk/Calculator.cshtml
  14. Hi bud. I've had a Google as I'm sure you have and not come up with anything. That's not to say there isn't custom slides around though. Why do you want a ported slide? Regards
  15. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale or swap
    • Used

    "Arthurian Airsoft Excalibur Obsidian" with an aftermarket 416C handguard, Zci inner barrel and aftermarket quick release stock, rear wired to deans. Will be coming with the stubby foregrip and a tan midcap. great condition, runs like a charm. roughly £385 at retail all together, looking for £185, or swap for anything interesting you have.

    £175

    Portsmouth, Hampshire - GB

  16. This seems an option, thanks! I'd not come across them before. Still a touch on the pricy side, but might be a go'er. I am rather wedded to the 'proper' external knee pad sections, as my knees are made of cheese these days. I had a look on eBay for the genuine crye stuff, but sadly it's multicam or nothing (I should have mentioned that I generally go for anything but). Yes, years ago I actually went to the trouble of unpicking the knee pad sections of some arktis trousers and restitching them lower onto the leg. The joys of life before kids when I had such time to burn!
  17. Anything from a few days to my worse was 6 weeks. I think I have heard of worse.
  18. Yarp, it's entirely up to your local sites, you'll need to ask them. It's one of the most LARP-ish aspects of airsoft, as functionally, the BB doesn't give a stuff about what it came out of. Locked-to-semi is both a site issue and a legal issue, as anything capable of auto and over 1.3J is a Section 5 firearm, not an airsoft gun. It's easily enough achieved on most guns just by filing a small amount off the fire selector so that it can't push on the semi-auto cutoff lever. My local is fine with me running a long barrelled M4 with a scope and solid stock as a DMR. They are indeed super-exploitable, and enforcement is essentially non-existent. With the best will in the world, when you're presented with a juicy target in the open, it's hard to resist the reflex to send two[*] BBs at them in short order. My other local disallows them entirely, and only allows sub 1.2J auto guns, and bolt actions up to 2.2J, nothing in between. I actually agree with this. [*] Ten.
  19. THIS ADVERT IS 'UNCOMPLETED' - THIS MEANS THE ADVERTISER HASN'T BUMPED THIS LISTING, BUT IT COULD STILL BE WORTH CONTACTING THEM.

    • Wanted
    • Used or as new

    I'm looking for a Real Sword Type 2 gearbox (for the type 56). Can be in bits, partially complete or all there as I'm wanting to use it as the basis to build a high spec gearbox. Please message me if you have anything.

    £9,999

  20. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • Used

    Righty, reluctant to sell, but would make moving house a little easier. Cheaper than others sold here, and way cheaper than new in the UK to reflect a couple issues. Works well despite these issues. It has fitted an upgraded CNC JWI hop chamber, Maple Leaf Crazy Jet inner barrel. Real Magpul K2 pistol grip (will include the stubby rattler grip too). Magwell adapted to take the VFC v2 and v3 VMags. Comes with the Artisan Rattler SD suppressor and rail kit. It also has nice Sig Markings from FCW. Ordered last October from Octagon airsoft. These things are super cool but have a few known problems. I’ve addressed them and it works great, but I’ve not actually skirmished it. Issues and solutions: - Finish kinda sucks and despite not being skirmished, has marked up quite easy. Purely cosmetic - Tolerances are too tight brand new and so I’ve had to cycle it a lot and rack it a lot to break in the internals. The stock recoil springs come very stiff and the finish is very sandy and rough and needed to be worn down through the internals moving how they need to to get it smooth. It’s nice and smooth now, but again, the finish has worn off parts of the bolt carrier and inside the receiver. - there’s a screw missing from inside the upper receiver (pictured) so far doesn’t seem to affect anything. - Original QD suppressor is stuck to the muzzle device. I don’t know how. I don’t want to ruin the finish on the suppressor with tools to remove it. - inner barrel extension removed from the stock suppressor because it’s not compatible with the maple leaf. - Stock Hop rubber over hops 25s or lower so could do with a change if light bbs are your thing. But 32s are perfect. Maybe not so good for CQB tho, which is the point of this gun. - Airsoft Artisan SD suppressor is scratched from some mlok grip screws foolishly. - Full auto fps and spread can be inconsistent. Would benefit from the hop upgrade. But semi auto is like a laser and snappy as hell. This thing is very nearly awesome. But could use a little tinkering still to really get it perfect. Full auto rate of fire will make you cry with excitement. On semi it’s snappy and crisp and accurate. It absolutely pings. The trigger is great and resets nice, clear and kinetically almost as clear as the break. It’s a very fun shooter. However, compared to other GBBRs it requires more regular cleaning of the internals because of the bad finish mixing with the lubricant in the gas and clogging up the very strong recoil springs. This is not as much an issue since I’ve been breaking it in. And has become lesser. Just expect to need to do more than the usual maintenance. Gas efficiency wise, when kept clean it’s up there with the rest of VFC V3 gas ARs, 3-5 mags worth of bbs on one gas fill. I have a series of very honest videos up on YouTube to take into consideration. I will not be selling it with a magazine. I’m afraid I need them all for my other VFCs they are quite available though on high pressure airsoft and other retailers. https://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/gas-magazines/vfc-m4-green-gas-magazine-30rds---grey To do this yourself: Gun on Defcon airsoft - £640 Upgraded JWI hop chamber - £52 plus shipping Maple Leaf Crazy Jet - £25 Airsoft Artisan SD kit and Rail - £160 shipped Plus Markings cost So really £420 despite no mag isn’t too much I don’t think. Or spend 3 times as much for a Toxicant MWS 🤷🏻‍♂️ Plus £10 P&P More pictures and videos available on request. Will only trade for an MWS CQBR or a GBBR G36 plus cash my way.

    £420

  21. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • Swap only
    • Used

    Looking to trade my sneaky boy for your loud gas blow back. Will entertain anything so try me. Fully upgraded mk23. Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 150mm Barrel Maple Leaf Autobot Bucking 50/60 Hadron Airsoft Designs TDC Cover Hadron Airsoft Designs H Plate

    £80

  22. Generally anything Tokyo Marui will be good, so I'd take a look through the pistols that TM have on offer and see if you like them. Outside of that, I really like the AAP-01. It's super modifiable and pretty reliable as long as you don't use the fun switch. If you want to use the fun switch, they require upgrading because the full auto will blow the trigger sears apart. I've had no issues with mine at all, but I only run them semi-auto.
  23. I was also at DogTag yesterday. Crap start for me when I got ten minutes away and released I'd left my boots at home! Quick nip to the services to see if the petrol station had anything for truckers. Lo and behold they did, and I played with the finest boots available (for £35 from Pease Pottage services). Morning games were alright with the castle, a part I've not used before. Less alright was when a chap on my own side with poor awareness/muzzle/trigger disclipine, shot me in the side of the head with a 2.3j rifle from about 3 feet away & it lodged in my ear (photo of offending item: https://ibb.co/4gMJk2F). He was very apologetic and I know accidents happen, but it wasn't brilliant. Ended up with claret on my kit/RIF. The afternoon was a struggle. About 70% of the field seemed to go home, so there was only 20 or so people left by the end. I gave up around 3:30 when it was basically 5-a-side. Is this a common thing now? I've never been to another site that empties out so much at lunch, to the point where I'm not sure I'd bother paying for another full day. That said driving nearly an hour to only play for three doesn't seem worth the effort.
  24. Tempted to try and speak to my bank about it, see if they can do anything as it's not fair, it was advertised as working, then it wouldn't feed when tested, he then started ignoring me, claimed he was busy blah blah blah, said he will "pass me some money Thursday" made me quite sad tbh, was looking forward to using it.
  25. Ace Airsoft War Games is literally 5 minutes from where I am currently, but until recently I thought the site was just a place that did paintball/kids parties/axe throwing etc. If you look at the spot on google maps with a wider perspective you'll see Warped Sports which is the aforementioned type activity centre, but if you carry on zooming the marker for Ace appears. It is very much.. a woodland airsoft site. It's fine. I certainly wouldn't tell anyone to avoid by any means, but I don't think it needs to be on the top of any must-visit site lists. More on account of the physical size/shape of the game areas than anything, they're all fairly long but pretty narrow, which even with only around 25 per side just made most of the games very stalemate'y. In a way, if you just want to shoot all day it actually works out, because it's a short walk to regen then you're back at it and it wasn't massively overcrowded, there just wasn't much movement. Nothing to be done as the borders were set as wide as they can be within the land. Track from the road to the car park somewhat lengthy and a bit bumpy but they'd put a lot of work and material in to filling the holes so could've been far far worse. Decent amount of safe zone cover and table space, not a lot of chairs but equally there wasn't too much sitting around in there either. I didn't make use of the shop or food facilities myself, looked alright though. Staff were pretty good overall I'd say. Works out to about £26 for military, £24 for members or £29 for pre-booked walk-ons. No lunch included, but that seems about a fair price for woodland in the west mids. Definitely some 'chatty' characters but I guess every day has that, everyone seemed sound overall which combined with the basically perfect weather did work out nicely. The one event that kinda pissed on my morning's play was standing up from my cover spot after the staff all shouted game over etc and catching a full auto burst all across my head and torso; couldn't spot the culprit but oh well. 🙄 2 other issues I had. The first that really won't matter to most people is that one of the game areas is thick with some kind of plant (and I mean thick, it's a carpet of the stuff) which stinks to high heaven. Someone near me said wild onion. The entire area has a sort of dank smell to it an my boots stink now even after being scrubbed immaculately clean in the shower. Maybe I've just got a sensitive little nose but it was pungent to me personally and I'm worried as to whether it'll ever come out of my boots. Secondly, this pic was taken on the path that leads from the SZ to the afternoon game area. There's maybe 6m between it and the M54 with absolutely no screening for a portion. Now, I'm assuming it's been this way for years with nothing untoward happening so fair enough, but I certainly made sure my gun was held down below the waist when going by. To me, just the lightest bit of sparse visual screening would be fine here since it's a dual carriageway with the usual 70 limit, but I was surprised by this uncovered area tbh. I'm sure nobody would be stupid enough to ever just fire BBs at a car......
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