Trojan

Wanting to tacticool up one of my M4s. Stock, grips, torches, lasers, sights. Where's a good bargain place to go? Don't mind waiting as its for later on in the year and have no rush.

if you really want to up it, just don't touch the Gearbox (unless someone else is doing it), up the battery to a 9.9v LiFe/7.4v Lipo, and upgrade the barrel system / hop system. If you've got a friend who can tech your stuff thats when I would advise doing the other stuff, e.g rewiring to Deans, internal upgrades etc

Dont

Hmm so I tried two mags today with the batteries, at first not a single bullet misfeed then later on, 20 pulls through / 30 one of the bbs misfed and then gradually a bit more, till the point where id have to pull it a few times for a single bullet to go through. changed the batteries because the old 9.6v ran out of juice (couldnt cycle the gb anymore, just locked and made a locking noise when trying it) basically the same thing happened. also you wouldn't think that an m140 would have the power to semi through 1inch cardboard and then pierce the cover of my pillow lol. i feel like the issue is a slowly progressive one that can be fixed by the batteries, in what circumstances can the batteries do this? it only misfeeds once i hear the gun shooting much "slower" because the batteries have nearly ran out

yes i understand that but it worked with the gearbox when it was stock and the first mag usually half works. the mags are compatible because they did work with it before i upgraded the entire GB internals. they are King Arm mags

I would like to know what causes misfeeding in order for me to diagnose this misfeed problem, I am pretty certain my magazines feed properly (how to test? a lot off bbs come out if i do pull the bb bit back). Aside from the magazine issue what else causes misfeeding?: To describe my problem thoroughly the first mag I put through it on my finished rebuild worked great, a few bbs did begin to misfeed at the end which was very annoying and it just dry fired before the mag could even finish (which leads me to assume the batteries are so weak that through 30shots they lose a lot more power). I personally think the problem could be weak batteries, I have 9.6v to power a A2 + M140 (yes I know but the 1600 mah 9.6v does work - at least i think). Which would partially explain how it feeds at first and then stops feeding. I'll buy some 11.1s soon (would cost about £70 to get a lipo kit) but if that does not completely fix the issue what could be the problem? If I hand drop a bb in the hop chamber what happens is the BB just sits on the lip of the mag and doesn't do anything... I have to poke the bb a bit through the feeding hole into the hop up for it to go in (requires a bit of a poke with some tweezers) then it works because the BB is inside the hop chamber and sits ring in front of the air seal nozzle. Is that BB issue normal, haven't really compared it with a working gun because I don't have one for the moment. If you put your AEG upside down and dropped a BB in the hop unit does it go through and does everything work, or does the magazine put a bit of a push onto the bb causing it to go in? if i could get a working gun it would really help me to examine the differences but I cant for a month or two, ideally would like to solve the issue independantly before then. Or could the problem be the magazine all along.. perhaps it isnt pushing out the BBs at enough force for it to go into the Mag chamber? Sorry about the boring read and sorta mis leading threat title, really want as many views on this as possible. Cheers

Thank you very much Ian very well explained, will try adding shims How will I know i have shimmed the cut off too high, want to shim it so there is a fair bit of work in talk so it can work properly... if the sector is .5up will shim the cut off .3 up could you clarify what you meant by drag on the sector.. have a hard time following text unfortunately and also was not going to stick with original parts, i too prefer my own guns.. over time my gb has been completely rebuilt from scratch in the inside. i have a few quirks with it though that i will address in another topic

OK well I have fixed the issue the Lonex upper trolley does not have as much material as the SHS ones, replaced for that and works. However the semi auto does not work if the trigger trolley is mid way (a light pull) and only works on full pulls (when the trigger trolley is all the way in)... this is an issue because if I pull slowly on semi it bursts and then goes into semi. Help?

get a TM recoil shock and then call it quits.. spend the rest of the £400 in airsoft stuff if you like.. or just do something else with it!

Can you tell if this is a worn or a good sector cut off lever? I replaced my trigger trolly and my gears so its either of those at fault here... I have only got a few shims on the bottom of the sector gear, I can move one or two from the top but what is the best way to check the gear actually makes contact with the lever Thanks please advise how you check semi auto functionality while the GB is open.. eg if the cut off lever works with trigger trolley, or the gear.

Alright well you're welcome Cheers

http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/hamsterfet-mosfet-kit What does this even say?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=hamsterfet You really don't seem competent enough to do a simple solder job. Get a tech to install one for you.

Buying a cheap non balance / smart charger for a fiver? Mate, that's what's called a "false economy". HK sell great little 7.4 1700 20c lipos for a fiver each. Lipos aren't expensive. Alarms just help prevent user from discharging the lipo flat. The IMAX b6 balance charger is £17, PSU are free if you have a laptop charge compatible, or around £9 Again they're not terribly expensive because if you plan on playing the game for a reasonable amount of time, you may as well do it properl, and do it from the beginning.

+1 on the Hamsterfet. Good stuff, get it from pets at ak2m4

Meh I blank fire lots of my guns... Quite excessively just to test for wear and tear, doing it for discharge purposes is however not recommended. If your gun isn't tuned up to scratch there will be a lot of wear and tear, it will pretty much stimulate like a few months of usage if you do it enough.

Yeah the lock ups is definetly due to the battery lacking sufficient power to go through the GB... Which is why the retailer confirmed it works properly but you didn't - they forgot to test multiple batteries. You should definetly tell them if the battery was the problem and that if it was they should test with different voltages. Also mass manufactured mosfets such as the g n g do not under go good stress tests like private FETs or expensive FETs. Get a cheap MOSFET like the extreme fires or hamsterfets to actually have the benefit of a real MOSFET. Batch manufactured FETs are super awesome Quality, such as the btc spectres etc

For lipos search hobby king or component shop... Measure your internal battery space and go from there For mosfets I recommend small companies or private MOSFET builders, I buy the HamsterFet, does everything I want and even has a self resetting fuse! If it's a private seller they get proper stress tests and QC tests, the same as the more expensive mosfets.

Meh I don't recommend a cheap iron... Before you know it they are incredibly useful and can be used to fix pretty much all electrical problems you have! Get the antex sx25 at £20 from CPC, a pcb holder (trust me), 60/40 sodder (no lead is rubbish) and some flux ... Flux is very useful to splice wire, makes everything easy. A cheap £30 investment will last you years! As for the job get some 16/18 AWG silver wiring .. Theyre £1 a meter where I buy them for 16awg so you can give your electrical connection a mega upgrade Soldering it onto the motor is best but i use CPC's spade connectors and crimp + solder the connector on just because I remove the motor a lot anyway - the difference is minuscule.

Hi mate Did you say you are using a 8.4? I think people are over looking this. It is likely the culprit! What is happening is the battery doesn't output enough volts to allow the G and G HT motor to power through a GB cycle properly. Buy a 9.6 or an7.4 lipo. Also solder a better MOSFET.... AB ones are good but can also have negative impact... The simplest solution? Non AB FET. Cheap and can withstand really high volts Basically pull the trigger properly and give the gun enough amps and there will be no problem.

HK is great for purchasing batteries!! You can get a good 3-5 lipos, a charger, lipo bags, lipo alarm and some extra connections for a little under 70. postage is cheap, £5 for next day? Count me in! The website navigation is awful though. Always purchase from their Items labelled UK Warehouse

Just make sure it fits OP;) A good lipo kit that will last forever should cost £70 ~ ( £30 charger & psu, £5 lipo bags nd alarm, £35 a few 7.4v lipos. Nimh is much cheaper though. All lipos do is allow the motor to have a higher amperage intake.... So it can work harder / faster. Up until a point where it no longer needs the excess amps, most high powered setups need a max of 60-70A at full load.... People buy packs that deliver 100+A just to have a cool battery pack (Similar to how if you had a 1000W PSU but the most your PC ever used is 600W at load then the PSU will be very quiet and incredibly cool) To work out the amps divide the MaH by 1000 and multiply by the Discharge rate © so 1800mah 20c would be 1.8 x 20 = 36 Amps MaH is not only linked to capacity of the battery but also the discharge output.

hahhaha i posted it because it like the look and i never see other RIFs with this lol

So I got bored and I hated the look of the cheap MOLLE battery pouches for the stock of your gun.. but at the same time I wanted an external battery rig.. so I bought an stock holder from ant supplies (great guys there!) for £12 and drilled a hole into the side of the stock & inside compartment in the zipped area. Result? No naked wires, just a nice looking stock concealing a big battery! Takes two minutes to do with a dremel and a drill bit... now I can carry pretty much any reasonable lipo... 5k or less mah. I used a 9.6v nimh to take the photos as it was lying around but you can see that you can leave batteries completely concealed and as a plus the stock is aesthetically pleasing Stock Pouch - http://ant-supplies.co.uk/Pages/StockCheekRestAmmoPouches.aspx Dimensions: 140mm Long x 47mm High x 35mm wide (flat before the compartment curves up) Now on the plus side... does any one know where I can get some nice Velcro stickers for the external of the pouch!

Noooo don't go my friend. We have travelled too far for you to leave one question un answered!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my friend! hahaha I am going to purchase these from Hobby King. Any last words before I pay? About £65 all in inc. postage for these lipos, an imax b6 (17) and its PSU (9), lipo bags & deans connectors (5), as well as the following lipos: 2 7.4 1700mah lipos: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=26802 3 of these puny 7.4 800mah lipos: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__26721__Turnigy_800mAh_2S_20C_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html 1 of these puny 11.1 850mah lipo: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__40128__ZIPPY_Compact_850mAh_3S_35C_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html Does anybody have recommendations for the setup, should I get 2 11.1s and just 1 800 mah 7.4? Total cost is £65... its a bit high as it is but not wanting to go higher at all!