Trojan

To be fair Z1 is a commercial forum for their own shop. It's good to have forums promoting their own products, as long as they are not bias. Take a look at OcUK... obviously any forums still a better forum than Z1 but OcUK are similar to how they use their forums to promote their own marketing. Still having said that, its even better to have forums promoting the best price for the best products.

I would like to purchase 11.1/7.4 lipos (1-2 for now) and a charger to charge them. Wheres the best place to get lipos in the UK, should I be looking at hobbyking or component shop? I also don't need NIMH/NICD charger because my smart charger already charges NIMHs and what C rating should I go for, 25c - 30c or is 20c good enough

Highly recommended. Great range. Great prices. Owner actually dispatches the item prior to RM collection times (thank god!) Will definitely use again!

If you don't want to hassle with customs and other extra work you can also buy second hand... you can even get RIFs... if the seller wants to sell you them lol.

Actually, I find that airsoft society is a very nice forum. They're people are much nicer to work with than say.... ASM... Z1... loads of other forums. Most of the time the members will not bother too much with multiple threads asking the same question, and if they have a solution they will link it to the already existing thread instead of saying nonsense like asking them use search for common terms. Plus they have an app so I can annoy their members much more frequently lol. Why is ASF-UK not on tapatalk or mobile devices? I don't mind too much but getting notified on your phone whenever someone replies/messages is a HUGE bonus. I didn't really think I'd find it useful, but man was I wrong. There should be more moderators like Ed. He seems like he actually wants to help run a friendly forum the way they were meant to be

It's a reinforced GB that's been radiused and sorbod so there's probably less chance of any fault.. Still it's airsoft so anything can happen Second hand v2s are about £15 so if I do get into any problems they're not too expensive to replace. How do you remove the C clip, I haven't changed bucking in a long time and my clip is being stubborn so I don't want to damage it. When my upgrades come should I swap out my spring only when I get the new 0.36s? Will using .2s in a 420ish fps setup have any negatives to it? I'll provably just bulk buy guarder 0.36 from Taiwan gun. Each £5 for 1K, 10k at £50 plus £10 postage so it's not too much of a rip off

Hi man, thanks for that... very informative also since the UK is very windy could I get 50m on windy days and about 70m on non windy days, once i finish upgrading everything? Yes it has a delayer chip installed. A problem I found was that my bbs have to be pushed into the hop unit, it gets stuck before it can enter the hop unit correctly and if i push it with a rod it will work. Any thoughts? What bbs do you personally use for .36g?

I think SMF forums have the easiest layout. IPB is good but I think SMF is the simplest Oh and IPB is like $200 as apposed to SMF, which is completely free. also dont try and ask too many questions on other forums... found out the hard way lol

Want to know what us UK folks use to seal compression parts for a better airseal. Firstly, what do you buy to seal the CH onto the Cylinder. All the yankees chant permatex silicone anerobic gasket maker, but after having a quick look on the fleabay it seems that any anerobic gasket maker is nonexistent in the UK. What alternatives do you guys use? Would this RTV Silicone Gasket Maker work - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABRO-RTV-SILICONE-GASKET-MAKER-Black-SEALANT-85G-TUBE-/271561612161?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f3a555b81 Just want to find an anerobic solution because I've heard that some sealents may actually never cure in the cylinder head (sounds messy), as there is not much air between the CH and the Cylinder ( or at least there shouln't be if you seal it properly) And what other parts do you seal? I've decided not to glue my piston head to my piston because the screw does its job and the head is rock solid. Do you tape/use dental floss over the bucking and masking tape the barrel to the hop up?

I'm having a few reliability and consistency issues with my M4, but other than that has been great after the recent upgrade. I am waiting on my compression parts to come to finish the upgrade, new CH, nozzle,new bucking. The gun sometimes dry fires with a full mag, if i angle the gun down and cycle it it will begin shooting again, I think it's misfeeding somehow but I don't exactly know how it is. I'm waiting on a new set of front pins so the upper could simply be moving forward and creating problems, will update to see if it is fixed with new pin. Another issue I have is the gun is curves left and right. How can I tell if my bucking is worn, I think that is the problem because the bucking looks roughed up and a bit torn. Also I would like to know how improving compression will help the gun, I understand the FPS variation will be more consistent - but what does this mean for real world performance? Will my groupings be much tighter? Ideally once I've finished the compression upgrades I really would just like the gun to shoot straight and as far out as 50m (a realistic goal?). Upgrades done to it: SHS 15 Steel Teeth Piston Lonex A2 Shimmed AoE'd Sorbo Radiused 16 AWG Silver Plated Non AB Mosfet SHS Pom Piston Head ka v2 gb Madbull TBB 6.03 will be installing: lonex CH (sorbo it) m140 shs lonex m4 air nozzle lonex 70deg bucking do you think with the right hop tuning i could get good groups at 50m? what are the goals i should aim for? im using bulldog .2gb BBs to test but if all goes well once I run out of these .2s ill purchase .36~ (something above .3 from a good brand that i can manage to get cheap). is the issue the BB quality (they arent as good as my blaster .25s lol), and is that the cause of the bullet curve (UK is windy, .2gs arent good in wind, would explain)

I just bought this replacement pin for my ka m4: http://ant-supplies.co.uk/Pages/M4LockPins.aspx as my current front pin is very loose without the spring pushing it (was so little i lost it) but i just realized this front pin is very different. My stock one is 6mm diameter (rod) and 34mm long. img

god damn it hahha all that trouble... thanks though

Hmm I've reassembled the gun a few times and had this problem before, I've forgotten how I fixed it but for some reason right after I pull the charging handle over the notch it gets stuck right before it can slot in. Any ideas of whats blocking the Upper to attaching into the lower http://i.imgur.com/efvyzNx.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hEJDEJJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7fxTxMp.jpg

Hahah mate its fine. What are some good brands for PEQs and flashlights? Want quality really.. last forever and don't want to dint the metal.

Everything else! Hahah I only want to leave out the DD RIS because I spent a fair bit on it and love the madbull product, and the crane stock because I prefer crane over magpuls skinny stocks. As for recommendations just leave some images of the ar-15 that you like, like Mr-B has done, or alternatively recommend some foregrips, dual mag systems, sights, lasers, peq boxes, pistol grips.

Sorry, should have made it clear, one of the main things I don't want to do is replace my beautiful DD RIS. I want to keep that. My budget would be around 80-120 on the external parts, and of course - they can look cool and both be practical! I'm pretty sure every part has both sides to it lol. I don't want to replace: crane stock, RIS rail. But yes thanks for the images. Will take another look at ar-15 images on google, sticking to the all black theme.

Just want to know what are some good guns to keep in mind when upgrading my M4. I want the most tacticool look possible Right now it's pretty plain, crane stock, crappy sight, beautiful MK18 Madbul DD RIS, clone magpul AFG. I'm going to be changing the grip to something along the lines of this http://www.windhamweaponry.com/images/KIT-PISTOLGRIP-A2.jpg, possibly get a nice ACOG, and get a nice long silencer. What sort of gun builds should I be looking at for inspiration, ideally want it all black..

Thanks it's fine I've fixed this issue but I still have a missalignment problem. With the motor inside the pistol grip itself. So desperately need a new replacement grip ASAP haha

Hi Whats the best way to route the wires without intefering with the lip on the base grip plate.. having some trouble with it.. i dont think i have enough wire lol, how should i go about extending it

I'm upgrading to a SHS 15ST/7ST with POM piston head, sorbo, corrected AoE, radiused cylinders, lonex a2, hamsterfet, replaced trigger wiring, 16awg silver plated custom wiring, shs cylinder head and shs air nozzle m4. This is to b e put in my KA Reinforced gearbox and upped with an M140. Firstly it'll be used very lightly on full auto (like 3-4 burst shots or maybe 30rounds or something every now and then) but mainly used on semi auto. Those "upgrades" consist of modifications as well as parts but please tell me if its not enough to safely support a KA Reinforced Gearbox. What else do you think I need to do to make it safe for an m140 SHS spring. also quick side question: the SHS spring is linear (its consistent in spacing all the way down and not like the wierd non-linears where they are tight towards the spring guide and loose in the middle) but where do I put the spring guide... the spring simply looks the same all round and I cant finder a tighter wound side, most people install the spring guides on the tighter side but i cant...

My soldering is awesome I'll take a picture before I wrap it up.

Awesome thanks. As for rewiring have any of you took apart a FET or a HAMSTERFET in my case, as I just want to replace the wiring with my better quality silver-plated copper wiring. Or should I just splice it from half way to avoid dissasembling the MOSFET, and will having silverplated copper wiring and a mix of regular tinned wiring change anything

Please confirm the MOSFET circuit will work. Just want to reduce cable inside the GB to allow lower gauge & easier remove etc.

I would but i need the tape on the top right ish of the motor, at an awkward angle or the motor wouldnt fit in the pistol grip as its tight in the arleady... I put tape on the pistol base grip lip (where it catches the endball of the motor) and that fixed it..but it isnt very secure and fell out cause the tape doesnt really have much area to grasp.

Hi there, I have a stock pistol grip and a Lonex A2 motor meshing with my stock KA gears. (KA Colt M4) The problem is that after a LOT of trouble shooting and diagnostics I have eventually figured out that the gun screeches not because of the shim job but because of the slight off-centered angle of the motor. Here is a picture of the pistol grip with the height adjustment tool removed: I want to know if any of you can think of ways to correctly adjust this. To confirm, I did wedge a Flathead screw driver into there to correct the positioning and it worked! My shim job came out near perfect and my gears spinned so nicely with very little noise. I tried Maekis sanding down of the pistol grip and that did help considerably as one of my original problems were that as the pistol grip went over the bevel gears bearings it tightened it as well as ruining the shim job - but maekis fix did not fix my misalignment. Any help is greatly appreciated as I've been struggling for so long now!