Samurai

Yes, that is offence unfortunately. I wanted to bring my guns with me so I did a thorough search on it. You must have defence even if you are sending it to yourself or bringing it in your luggage.

Then your RIF needs a mechanic.

A Modify hopup rubber.

You can put a red dot on that front rail, it works just fine. Actually I prefer it that way. Real steel AK users have that too:

I would choose Cyma over G&P any time. At least the AK or M14 over a G&P M4. A hongkong shop has sales for G&P products now with prices at a 1/3 of their original prices. That gives an idea about how overpriced G&P is.

Boyi G36c is a clone of Ares's G36c. It has suprisingly fine recoil as well as the internals look quite allright. In fact, after a cleanup (the hopup was soaked with grease - thanks to gunfire.pl's "upgrade") it was one of the most accurate gun I have ever held, and definiately the most accurate with factory internals. I would definiately get one if there would be a free space in my gun slots.

As BrightCandle said, measure with 0.20. But do use it with 0.30 or heavier if the gun can spin it. The heavier the BB, the more accurate your shots are. Personally I would go for a JG Bar-10 with the aforementioned parts. I had an L96 before for a short time but it was way too long, heavy, and because no-one makes aftermarket hopup rubber for it, quite useless. When I built my bar-10 I was not in the UK yet and since we had a 600 fps limit I got a 90 degree piston and a hand-made steel trigger assembly too. For 450 the 45 degree one with the steel sears will do fine. I think I've ordered the parts from wgcshop.

VSR with modify rubber, SHS steel sears,a 45 degree metal piston and a spring. If you start with a JG-bar 10 then I would recommend a modify precision barrel too. Shim the hopup arm and you're good to go.

It seems like you've made a mistake when you put it together. Like you left out the tappet plate spring, or the nozzle is not on the tappet, or something similar.

I've been shot way too many times when I didn't expected it, in safe zones or at home. At a game day first thing is to put my goggles on and I only take it off when I'm driving away at the end of the day. Sometimes you can even surprise yourself with a well placed unintentional shot. For example the time I was building an 500 fps DMR and I put my finger in front of the muzzle to see if the air blows hard enough when I fire. There was still a BB in the hopup. Oh, fun times...

I've ordered about 10 chargers like these in the past years from china. One died after short time, the others were fine.

In that case I would recommend buying a smart charger like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imax-B6-B6AC-Lipo-NiMh-LCD-Digital-Balance-Battery-RC-Helicopter-Charger-1-6S-/350804974421?pt=Battery_Chargers&hash=item51ad9b1b55 You can use it's nimh mode to kickstart the lipo and then switch to lipo charging.

If it goes below minimum voltage then it looses some from the maximum capacity (1100mAh in your case). If the battery is way below minimum voltage then there is risk of fire, etc, but if it's only slightly below the minimum then it's not going to happen. Of course you should watch it for that few minutes of kickstarting. I've successfully revived a handful of lipos with this method. Both of those chargers are lipo chargers meaning that they are "smart". A dumb charger is something that just gives a somewhat stable output voltage and doesn't check anything. Those always have the output voltage and current written on them.

You can use up to a 12V charger. Or if you have an other 11.1 lipo you can use that too. It's just to bring your back above 9V.

It won't work because it's smart. It knows that the battery is below the minimum and it's "brain" won't let you charge it. As a rule of thumb, don't shoot more than 1500 BBs with that battery. Or get a lipo guard and check the battery sometimes during the game if you have a minute.

That means that one ore more cells have been discharged below the minimum voltage. The charger won't allow you to charge it, and the battery has lost a portion of it's maximum capacity because of this over-discharge (put the proper English word here ). If you had a voltage meter you could check. If you just used it in a RIF without checking the voltage then chances are that it's not just a single malfunctioning cell, but the whole pack is on too low. That is the better case. What you can do is to "kick it". You would have to put the battery on a dumb charger that puts out at least 10V. If you have a 9,6V NiMh charger that would work. Leave it on for a few minutes. This raises the voltage in the lipo above the minimum value, and the quickly put it on the lipo charger.

I guess you don't need 30 working ones. Maybe try these: http://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/p24025/G&P-Dummy-Shotgun-Shells-%2810-pcs-pack%29/product_info.html

That noise is because either you forgot the anti-reversal latch or it's spring or for some reason (bad shimming) it can't engage.

PDI is on the top.

You can check that easily. Remove the magazine. Shoot a few times to make sure no BB is in the hopup, then turn the gun upside down and shoot until the nozzle stops about halfway into the hopup. You can see it through the BB feeding part of the hopup. Remove the battery to be safe. Get a bright light and direct it into the hopup from the magwell. Now if you look into the barrel from the "hot end", you will see if the nozzle is in the center of the barrel or not.

Or you can try a QD silencer. That would fit on your flash hider.

Hey guys, I've been lurking around this forum for a few weeks now, but now is the time that I introduce myself, because I've just moved to Aylesbury from Hungary. I've been playing airsoft for some years now. Back there I had a team and I even worked as an airsoft mechanic for a few years as a second job until I got bored with it. Nowdays I just build custom guns for myself and of course play whenever I can. Unfortunately I will still have to wait a bit before my first game here, because I couldn't bring my rifs with me on the plane. Back in Hungary we (or it's "they" now) have airsoft events the way I prefer. Most of them are considered to be milsim by UK standards. A lot of the games have dresscode (no armbands), no hi-caps, strict command chain, teamwork, radio control, etc. Anything below 100 participants are considered to be a smallish event. 200-250 is the typical. Most of the games are in forests, or in abandoned soviet military bases. I just love patrolling the forest and hunt for the enemy. I hope to find games like that over here (well, without the soviet bases ), as I'm not a big CQB fan. If you know a game like that around Aylesbury, let me know, I will be happy to join. It'll be nice to skirmish with you guys and see how it's done here. Peter

Sometimes the rubber's mouth protrudes into the BB's way as it gets feeded from the vertical part of the hopup unit, and on high rof it can get caught between the barrel and the BB. Use a rubber that doesn't protrude that much.

Setting AOE is a must. The a new piston head might be thicker so it's possible that the gear hits in between the teeth of the piston. If that happens with steel teethed piston then the gears break. The marks on the side of the piston is something I've never seen. It looks like the piston has turned sideways. One more thing. If you put this much grease on the piston head, it will make it's way to the hopup and screw up your accuracy.

Adding a stock and burst fire mode to a handgun creates a quite bad sumbachine gun. Wrong ergonomics, too short distance between the sights, sights not in the right distance to your eyes, etc. And of course it looses all the advantages of being a handgun, like concealed carry, quick draw, easy maneuverability... So in the real steel world people bring a submachine gun if they need a submachine gun. In out airsoft world, I think they are cool. Especially this one: http://www.fab-defense.com/images/detail/5/266-kpos-g2-3d-open-optimal-png-Mon-Jan-21-16-54-54.png