Adam3088
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Posts posted by Adam3088
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Yeah, think that probably happened after it broke free
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So after rebuilding a v2 gearbox it fired 50odd shots fine, suddenly seizes up with the piston all the way back, spring tension release wouldn't move the AR latch so I had to open it up under full tension.
Cant see anything wrong with the gears/av latch but the piston head had detached itself from the piston..
It's a ZCI silent head on a ZCI piston, stock cylinder + head with neoprene pads glued on to fix the aoe.
Any reason why this might have happened? The head was very well attached when it all went together, and still cant understand how it seized..
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Finally managed to get this finished (sort of), few bits were an absolute pain in the arse.
I've managed to bugger up the spring on the selector when putting it back in, alligned the ball bearing + spring, tightened the selector...twist aaaand one mangled spring. Awesome, cant even see how it went wrong.Well I'm an idiot, thought about it for 5 minutes and realised that I'd just not been pushing the selector in far enough..takes quite a bit of force to click it on the last bit.Also found a clip inside the gearbox after dissasembly, looks like the type used to stop a body pin from coming all the way out, for the life of me cant work out where it was meant to be though.
Things done:
PTFE ZCI 6.02 barrel, nice and stable now
ZCI re-enforced steel shims
ZCI enhanced 18:1 gears
ZCI steel spring guide
ZCI silent piston head
ZCI Shims
o-ring air nozzle
Fixed aoe with neoprene washers (didnt bother with sorbo)
Non-AB Airfet
16awg silver wire
...magpul pistol grip, stock one pissed me off too much with lack of space
Think I may need to swap out the pinion as well though as it sounds a bit whiny?
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Surely a layer of oil would just attract residue to adhere to the barrel?
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Welcome to the forum! There's now a huge amount of Airsoft tutorial content on YouTube, might be worth a look to help you get the g3 back together.
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Don't really want to be sticking oil down the barrel, will cause problems with the hop rubber.
I take the hop unit off the barrel, remove the rubber, cut up 2-3 strips of jay cloth, put one through the end of the barrel cleaning stick, dip it in white spirit and run it through the barrel repeatedly while twisting.
Then take a clean bit of cloth, put that on the stick and then run it through again.
Then just put it back together, if the hop rubber is oily then give it a wash in some warm water + washing up liquid.
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Ordered a casv front end for my scar, also got a whole bunch of zci bits to go inside it..
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Have been using the premium bio 0.25g gunfire rockets, at ~£8 per 3k +p&p they've been good so far.
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If you have valid reenactor insurance that's perfectly fine as a legal defence, a lot of retailers most likely won't be too keen on accepting it though as it gives them a nice simple paper trail with UKARA. Best bet is emailing a bunch of sellers and hoping one of them is a bit more easygoing, or you could play the three games and wait the painful couple of weeks for your number to appear...
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It'll give you a faster trigger response and greater capacity for the size, but unless you get an 11.1v its not going to up the rof noticeably.
Do not use an 11.1v without upgrading the gearbox first! Without certain changes that gearbox's life will be short and noisy.
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If you're spending ~£100 why not spend just a bit more and get WAS gear from the UK?
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Pretty much any Airsoft shop, eBay, Amazon? Is this a trick question?
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I've not been to 39 in a long time, was planning on going next weekend but unfortunately I'm on holiday then, it is still being run regularly though. But as I've not been to the mod site, can't comment on its current form.
Another good local site is Raw war Airsoft which is held at tendring paintball extreme. Normally gets 50-60 people, is very well run and as long as you don't mind a bit of paint the place has a pretty awesome setup (does milsim lite + normal days). Last time I went the sportsmanship was excellent, no moaning at all, game only had to be stopped once because a guy got stung by a wasp.
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Indeed yes.
Is it one with the metal receiver, what's the quality like on the externals?
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Awesome, thanks. Ordered a bunch of it, my mistake was searching for 16awg so none of that was appearing...
Just need to order an air nozzle and some neoprene to sort out aoe and that's everything done.
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You join a forum and the first thing you do is beg the members to essentially lie for you to a retailer, and then have a hissy fit when people aren't nice about it?You f*ck, why can't you be bit nicer and straight away think I'm on my parents money... The only thing I asked for is if I can play 3 games in 1 or 2 weeks period is it really that hard to answer withou mentioning parents money. Thanks for very inviting way of speaking to a newbie...
Might want to rethink this and start again.
- Josh95, beastmode and Airsoft_Mr B
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Stock internals will be fine with a 7.4v lipo, to run an 11.1v you will need to do some internal tweaks and personally I think if you want an AEG which is going to last a good amount of time without having to replace various parts of the gearbox every now and then, I'd stick with 7.4v.
Get yourself a decent smart charger such as a turnigy accucel 6 and check out the manual before using, in certain circumstances lipos can explode/combust (but they're pretty safe really).
Component shop is a good source of lipos + chargers and all that electrical stuff.
Would recommend a non-active braking MOSFET at some point as well, even a 7.4v causes quite a bit of arcing which in the long term damages trigger contacts.
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Hey Shizbazki,
Watched your videos a couple of times previously, they were very informative, thanks!
Don't suppose you know of a good place to get 16AWG silver from? Usual places I look don't seem to have any (even ebay) or I'm just searching with the wrong keywords...
I've seen a few places say how crappy the WE stock gears are, I'll definitely be swapping those out with some reinforced ZCI ones.
Also do you know if it uses a standard length M4 air nozzle?
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Also, looking at ZCI gears, is it worth getting these over their standard ones: http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/zci-gear-set-18-1-performance?search=18:1
Dont really know anything about gears other then the ratios..
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I have a similarly enormous head size, got an FMA helmet in large and with some of the padding removed it fits pretty well.
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The performance of my Scar so far has not been massively impressive so as I need to open up the gearbox anyway (it's shooting at ~260fps on 0.25g) I'm planning on doing some upgrades / replacing some of the crappier WE internals.
Not going for a higher rate of fire or anything fancy, just reliability, consistency and range/accuracy.
Done so far:
- ZCI 275mm 6.02 TBB (this was to reduce the barrel length rather then an upgrade)
- G&G Green hop rubber
- XT60 connectors
Planning on doing:
- Stabilizing barrel (bit of movement atm)
- PTFE taping to improve air seal
- Non active braking mosfet, probably an airfet
- New spring
- Bearing spring guide
- Replacing gears with ZCI 18:1 reinforced (stock WE gears are weak)
- re-shim
- Replace air nozzle with an o-ring version
- Check aoe
Without using expensive parts is there anything else I can do?
Self detaching piston head..
in Electric Guns
Posted
Ahh ok, didn't realise bearing heads were more susceptible to undoing themselves.
I've stuck a load of blue loctite in there so will so how it holds up this time, was a bit surprised it had undone itself after so few shots as I'd tightened it up pretty well.
I'll see how it goes this time, if it comes off again I'll remove the bearing, thanks!
After sitting down for a while I realised why it had seized up, when the head detached the piston must've been unable to travel all the way forwards (screw in the way or whatever), so when the gear picked it back up it pulled back to the release point but there were still teeth left to pull it back, resulting in jammage.
On a slightly related note, I've got a M100 spring to go in it (one of those springs where not all the coils are evenly spaced) but holy sh*t the amount of effort required to actually get it into the gearbox is unreal, are they normally that difficult when new? Thinking of clipping off a couple of coils so I can actually get it in.. Only other v2 I've taken apart was my M4 and that spring went back in very easily.