Lozart

Just in case you fancy it https://www.stitchsloft.com/loft/sg-1-omega-elite-conversion/

Went to South Coast CQB for the first time in about 8 years yesterday! Overall a good day, but.... Marshalling was pretty woeful, several times the two marshals assigned to our side spent the entire game sat at spawn pissing about with their phones. The other two seemed to be a bit more on the ball so there's that. Lots of whingeing about hit taking but personally I didn't see a problem. I think there's a lot of people whose guns aren't as good as they think they are! The site is a LOT smaller than the last time I went. The whole back half of the site has been fenced off by the landowner (presumably because the buildings are less fucked and able to be rented out). Teams were massively unbalanced and there was no attempt to address it. We got our shit pushed in and spent most of the day within about 100yds of our spawn point (that's on us, I am aware). On the plus side, my SCAR full of @ak2m4's upgrade bits performed excellently, although my MP9 managed to get a BB stuck under the nozzle and went through a kinetic disassembly. Good day overall, not in a massive rush to go back though. There's other sites that are the same/less distance that I'd rather spend my time at.

Three gears looks like a clock? What kind of clocks did you take apart as a kid? HPA engines don't have gears but they do have a significant amount of pingfuckits and Jesus clips, not to mention the seals that need more regular maintenance than a greasy rack. As for how much money people have spent on upgrading an AEG, the components in a gearbox would only cost as much as a P* F2 if you had them plated in gold first! 😄

FNARRR!

Edited for brevity.

HPA is only more reliable if (like gas) you're happy to do the maintenance. A well set up AEG can be consistent enough for a game where the slightest whiff of a breeze can make a mockery of the money you've spent on making your gun super accurate and consistent! Thing is, social circles (like many corners of the interwebs) are basically echo chambers. All your friends think HPA is great, therefore you are more likely to go HPA because that's all you've heard about.

The biggest issue I have with getting paint jobs like that off is that they just never really completely come off. There's always a little nook or cranny that stays painted.

Angle grinder. That'll work. I'm with you on the factory fresh look. Ignore the haters, BLACK GUNS MATTER!!!!!!

Ok, so for me, yes I would say go for a programmable mosfet (I personally prefer the Aster because I have the app on my phone and I can program it and get diagnostics without having to remember how many times I flicked the selector and what colour light means what). Consistency shot to shot is your friend when looking to improve performance at range so things like making sure you have a good airseal are more important than a shiny piston, as long as your compression parts are working well enough. My personal route would be: check your piston/cylinder airseal - take it out, put your finger over the cylinder head outlet and try to compress the cylinder. If it stops solid or at least gives you a good amount of resistance then it's fine, leave it alone. If it offers little to no resistance, it's garbage, change it out. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/xt-v2-v3-cylinder-piston-head-pom https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/xt-14-tooth-piston-blue https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/cylinders/zci-stainless-steel-cylinder-4-5 or https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/cylinders/xt-cylinder-anti-heat-4-5 IF your cylinder is damaged or not the right vent positioning https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/xt-m4-nozzle-aluminium better nozzle with an airseal o-ring CLEAN the inside of the gearbox and your existing gears refit and shim the gears properly to reduce friction/slop LUBRICATE your gearbox properly - ie not excessive amounts of grease, use the right sort of grease (Abbey LT2 for the mating surfaces of the gears, applied with a small paintbrush). Don't overdo it, any optical MOSFET will throw a hissy fit if you get grease on the sensors. Make sure to lightly lube the rubber sealing parts (piston head o-ring, nozzle o-ring) with silicone grease. Set up your mosfet of choice with a bit of precocking if you want to but make sure any settings you make are appropriate for the motor/gear combination you have. Unless you want absolute hair trigger response, 13:1 or 12:1 gears are not always necessary and can lead to pre-engagement issues. Better hop rubber and nub - the Maple Leaf combo mentioned above is pretty much the easiest route right now but be aware that the ML rubbers have quite long feed lips so bear that in mind if you start to get feeding issues. the new XT inner barrels are VERY good there is a particularly good deal on the 6.00mm ones at the minute https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels/xt-inner-barrel-aeg-600mm Use (and I cannot stress this enough) DECENT ammo. I wouldn't necessarily say you need a super duper CNC hop unit but to say don't would be hypocritical of me (I have a few Maxx units and I'm looking at the Silent Industries Alpha one for a build too), but I have had perfectly good results from bog standard plastic hop units when paired with a good barrel and rubber. I would ABSOLUTELY recommend the XT motor over the Nuprol one https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/xt-high-torque-motor-22tpa-long-fan (mostly because he seems to be out of brushless ones for the minute). Alternatively you could look at the ASG Infinity CNC motors https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/products/ASG-Ultimate-Infinity-Motor-with-Long-Shaft-U-30000 Don't get caught up by the reddit and Faceache "experts" telling you that you have to short stroke/DSG/HPA the fuck out of everything and it all has to be made from CNC'd aircraft grade billet. Hope this helps.

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/xt-14-tooth-piston-blue That's my go-to piston these days. What is driving your decision making process on the parts you've mentioned? As for "will it all work well together" - only if it's put together well. This is going to sound harsh but you can't just throw shiny bits at a problem and expect it to be awesome. If you get cheaper parts and put them together well they can work as well if not better than all the shiny gizmos if they're just thrown together. You're changing A LOT in one go so expect to have some teething issues, especially as this is your first attempt at DIY tuning.

Have you tried HK Parts in the US? https://hkparts.net/stocks-braces-slings/b-t-sling-swivel-universal-picatinny-attachment/

Old fart, me. Good times indeed.

What gun is this for? GBB or AEG?

Use the grey, white will make your black look weird. If you can get a matt black topcoat that would be easier. Matt clearcoats are a pain in the arse. Bear in mind that it WILL chip in use, regardless of what you try and protect it with.

Get an adhesion promoter or a plastic specific paint (for car bumpers for example). I used to swear by UPol plastic primer when I was airbrushing.

Hop units don't have to be expensive. If yours works OK and doesn't slip then keep it in.

I'd say go for one of the universal type kydex ones: https://deadlycustoms.co.uk/product/universal-surefire-nurpol-x200-x300-kydex-signature-series-holster/ As mentioned above they secure to the front of the torch rather than the pistol so they tend to be a bit more spacious. The DC Universal ones will fit pretty much everything bar a Desert Eagle!

Lynx Africa?

How close are you trying to get? Technically the handguard and pistol grip need changing plus the scope and mount are different. If you want to get proper nerdy then you'll need a dimpled 13.7" barrel but nobody seems to be making an airsoft one of those.

Weeks? Years more like!

That's a KC02