Lozart

HK45 then. Glocks are wank. Controls on the HK45 are ambidextrous too so double win. Apart from the safety of course, but who ever actually uses THAT?

What parts are you thinking of? Mine has a Maple Leaf barrel and hop rubber and a Laylax outer barrel. It only needed the outer barrel because I dropped it on the muzzle and damaged the original one. If you're looking for a pistol to smother in loads of pointless anodised tat then yes, Hi-Capa or AAP-01 are probably your best bet. If you want a decent pistol that is reliable and shoots well then yes, the HK45 is good (as is pretty much any TM pistol) as long as the ergonomics work for you.

First off, hi! Secondly, the go-to for DMR building is this thread here: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/the-holy-grail-of-building-your-dmr-aeg.892/ You're looking for consistency shot to shot in the main. If your hop is struggling to lift heavier BBs and your power is where you want it, there's no air leaks and minimal variance on power between shots then I'd say start with the hop rubber and nub. Maxx and Eon hop units aren't always an upgrade, while they are made to higher tolerances than a lot of hop units, this can work against them if they don't work right in your gun. If you have inconsistent power or you can't get to the power you want with just a bigger spring then you have other issues which will affect the accuracy and consistency of the gun.

I have two JG G3's (yeah, I know it's not the same but still) and they're plastic and pretty decent, I seem to recall that the JG MP5s have a weird lever that sticks up from the handguard to adjust the hop which has a habit of wandering in use.

I have an RRV I've been using quite a bit lately and have found that it's just not great for use with battle belts or shooters belts. It's an old school design which while still valid and great for what it is, was never designed to be run with anything much beyond a riggers belt to hold your pistol holster. If you have a "proper" RRV style rig you should be able to fold up the bottom row of molle and clip it in place to allow for more clearance around your waist, if not then try and place any mag pouches/pistol holster no further forward than your 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock points, anything bulky definitely wants to go towards the back (dump pouch, GP pouches etc). If you're using a pistol holster look at either a drop leg or a low ride mount to give you a bit more clearance. As for the mag pouches ON the rig, I run four double M4 mag pouches (old Eagle Industries type ones with the flaps), offset towards the left (I'm right handed) with a couple of grenade pouches on the left end and a 200rnd LMG pouch on the right (holds my TAGs and launcher). I usually run it with a shooters belt but have changed the pistol mag pouches to slanted ones to get more clearance and run a low ride belt loop with a QLS style clip on the holster which helps with clearance too. MOLLE II canteen pouch holds my Odin loader and a dump pouch at the 7-8 o'clock position rounds it all off.

Good man, glad to hear I'm not the only one!

You assume that these people don't just think NIST is a misspelling of the place where birds live.

FTFY. Things that grind my gears? People. Things that grind my gears on airsoft forums? Airsofters. Especially the ones that have an opinion based on internet rumour and aren't prepared to either learn or admit that they may be wrong, misinformed or not in possession of the ONLY WAY to do something.

Same, I use a GW6900 when I play. It's tough and reasonably cheap if I did have to replace it!

The spring is there to make sure the nozzle seats against the hop rubber properly, that's all. You can definitely use O-rings but they're less forgiving of any magazine misalignment.

Prepare thyself for the infinite rabbit hole of "fucking about with airsoft guns"! Rubber parts, yes hop rubber and O-rings. If your AEG doesn't have an O-ring nozzle it may be worth getting a new nozzle that does (make sure you measure it first and get the right length). Again, all parts that @ak2m4 can help you out with. If the old grease is particularly heavy handed it may be worth getting some new shims and reshimming the gears once you clean it out. Check the bore of the cylinder for any scratching/gouges, make sure the piston head is still secure and that any pad on the inside of the cylinder head isn't loose/worn/damaged. GBB is likely to be O-rings on the bottom of the mag too. Put some gas in it and submerge it to see if and where it leaks. No point changing fill valves if they're OK. Depending on the pistol you may be able to get a specific service kit for the mags (more expensive than just getting a bunch of O-rings but more likely to have the right ones). Again, take pictures and post them up in the tech threads here if you're unsure!

That's a good way to get yourself kicked off site.

Ah the original high rise optic mount! Good shout actually, assuming OP wants to be as cool as the rest of us in the carry handle gang.

That's not entirely true. You can definitely get 6.00mm inner barrels, but the benefits don't entirely outweigh the negatives

@ButcherBill just FYI - you won't be able to buy from that link. They don't ship outside the US, and it's probably ITAR restricted anyway.