AK47frizzle

That's a lot of money for... a plain looking m4 AEG

29 inch wheel are the norm now, not much for 26 inch left. Although, continental still have good mtb tyres for 26 inch like the raceking, crossking, mountain king etc. I think Panaracer too. Wheels that 2.2 inch+ are common too for offroad. I use 2.2 inch race kings and they seem to be the best balance between speed, performance, and weight but I don't do any crazy trails, just some casual offroad like dirt, gravel, and roots in forests. The theory is that skinnier wheels are faster, which is technically true. But, over the years, it seems people have found wider and bigger tyres to be better because, although the raw speed on flats are lower, the ability to glide over most terrain more than makes up for it. TPU inner tubes are getting popular too. I run them and it's instant -300 to 400 grams compared to standard butyl. Worth the upgrade. Lots of trail folks run tubeless but they require high pressure output to set up like a compressor. I still prefer tubes because ease of use. Steel frames are still used by ye, they are harder to come by and usually only available through smaller companies that do custom made stuff. I don't run clips (clipless, dumb name) so cannot comment on that. As for your fork I don't know much about that one but air forks very popular now. Cheaper ones have only one side working, more expensive have both sides with suspension and dampers etc etc. Tbh, older cranksets and shifters are still perfectly fine. I have a 16 yr old trek 3700 that I've modded to shit through aliexpress but the original gears and such are still there. V brakes are still cool too. Honestly, your bike is still very capable. Bikes, at the core, haven't significantly changed that much over the years. If all your stuff works, then no real need to change. With your MTB, I am not sure if there is much worth changing unless you want to splash big on new suspension. Maybe new tyres if current ones have worn out. Your other option is to turn it into a lightweight gravel bike. I have done that with my trek 3700. It started off at 15kg, and I shaved it down to 10.8kg which made it significantly faster overall, and much nicer to carry around. Changing to a lightweight aluminiun or carbon fork will make a huge difference on its own. After that, you can change smaller things like installing TPU inner tube, carbon seat post, carbon saddle, lighter handlebar and stem. Then you could convert it to a 1x system where is only one chainring (called a "narrow wide") at the front meaning you cut out the front derailleur and shifter, shaving off more weight and making the bike simpler to maintain and use. But I think you should just ride it first. Maybe ask someone to borrow their 29 inch wheel bike too because, as much as I hate to admit it, 29 inch wheels are just much more comfortable to ride.

These GBB PCC's are getting quite interesting now. Pistol GBB mags are way more practical for their size and weight compared to the rifles mags. Plus, if you run compatible side arm, you only need to carry one type of magazine and pouches.

Unfortunately, airsoft is still very much a hands-on and unregulated hobby. Like with biking (as I do myself), most things are "good enough" but not great out of the box. You will often have to spend more and tinker yourself to tick all the boxes you are after. There are an unbelievable amount of trash copies of trash copies of trash copies out there, and usually all copy the same design flaws. Best to ask before buying because it is a minefield out there. You'll be surprised at how many people say "I already bought X, is this a good gun?". The customer service and warranty you are looking for will mostly be from the retailer you bought from, not the brand itself. Patrol Base is usually a good place to start. The brand label usually won't give two shits about you. That being said, of course, not all brands are equal. The only brands that I can confidently recommend out of the box are CYMA Platinums, Arcturus, and G&G guns right now. Other brands usually have some cut corners that end up exploding if you even attempt to change anything, including the spring, such as brands like NUPROL and Double Eagle from my experience.

Look for a king arms m700 or vfc m40a5 gas bolt. I believe they are tanaka clones and that use an thumb screw adjustment dial to change power. The king arms bolt is available on evike last time I saw. Otherwise custom cnc. I had a vfc m40a5 before with a custom made nozzle that extended further. Probably will have to ask around.

Not surprised. I think it was double the cost of a normal game day everywhere else for half a game day till noon... Wanted to go play when I was staying in london for a while but could never justify the cost.

I went to battle belt for a few years but then eventually went back to the old d3rcm chest rig because: 1. Chest rig holds more 2. Easier to grab stuff from chest 3. Doesnt bob up and down as much when running, big one for me 4. Uneven weight distribution on a chest rig is well supported. On a belt, I normally have a utility pouch for extra bbs, co2 etc that ends up being heavier which makes one part of the belt droop down further and feels uncomfortable.

I've had this issue too. I know someone that has also had it and they said it was a optical sensor issue with some light bleeding in. They sealed it off and it apparently worked. I haven't tried it myself but worth a shot.

Use heaviest bbs you can get, assuming you running full power. I use 0.43-0.48g depending on availability. And you should at least try to use an optic. Red dot or magnified or whatever, it helps a ton for single shot. I run a mix of scope and red dot on my SPR300 and both are great: red dot is lighter and faster, better for medium and short ranges; scope is heavier and slower to scope in, so better for longer ranges. Getting quick scopes with a red dot is very fun though. Also, get yourself a cheap chrono like the xcortech mk3, it comes real handy when you're testing power before game day. If it's above the power limit, just cut the spring bit by bit until you get it right. In terms of play style... I just run and gun with it like I would with an AEG. Play it like you would in a game. You will be severly disadvantaged with normal AEG power levels though. The whole point of a bolt action is to get a significant range advantage. You will basically just have to camp corners or jiggle peek because you only have one chance to catch someone before being forced to move away because you don't have the same volume of fire as a rental with a g36c does.

Oooh but the sg553 later in the video....