StoveCap

Apart from changing anything, the first and most obvious thing is to properly lube and clean the gun. A clean cylinder glides smoother and doesn't break like a gritty disgusting cylinder. Lube with PTFE as an ingredient is the current recommendation for airsoft moving parts use. To be honest, Just a spit ball - but I do own an SSG10, and compared to my SRS, the action is incredibly easy. In terms of range and (I think) power, it is incredibly similar. Im not saying buy an SSG10, but since the platforms are so incredibly similar (If not the same) then I'd look into what parts Novritsch uses to get his rifle's pull so light. Other than that, I can just +1 what Impulse is saying.

Unicorn is the most common recommendation I see. 4uad's new bucking is apparently alright. Flamingos are also pretty high up there. Then obviously Nineball.

Just picked up a nice handful of Austrian surplus. Hoping for a little help with one of the bits though. One bit i picked up was this - https://goarmy.co.uk/collections/tactical-vests-webbing/products/austrian-army-assault-vest-olive Before i start picking up random olive green pouches to build this out, would anyone happen to know what pouches the Austrian armed forces typically used with these vests? I've honestly never bought any surplus outside of some PLCE stuff, and BDUs so building a vest out to spec is new to me. Also if anyone knows any brands that make doable pouches on the budget friendly end, sending them would be appreciated too. Apologies if any questions I ask are stupid, I'm woefully ignorant when it comes to buying actually decent grade kit.

https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/rif-s/gas-powered_1/golden-eagle-m4a1-gbbr-extras_i60692 Step right up, time for the Second Golden eagle m4 trying to be sold off for way more than its worth this past week. This time its £450 for the gun, some odd attachments and 3 Barely Functional magazines!!!! What a steal! And I'm not even going to get into the fact this poor gun was seemingly being run on black gas the whole time, so the internals that aren't already broken are probably screaming for the Emperor's Mercy.

Thats a CGS (Cyma Gas System) which is just T8 Shit renamed. It wont work with your MWS (not well atleast). Avoid any and everything T8 / CGS. Its stupid that they're still trying to market T8 stuff as MWS compatible.

Partial to trying random ass spiced rums myself, got all sorts really. St Ives Island rum, Dead mans fingers, Gods own. Nothing really to call a favourite though, only been able to (legally) buy my own stuff for a little bit now. Side-note, I work in a sort of Tex-Mex place and I get a Jarritos (Mexican soft drink) after most shifts, save them up for the end of the week and find that they mix well with rum - Just an alternative to the usual rum and coke were all used to, If probably a bit sweet for the more developed of the tastebuds in here.

He realised 350 for a used and abused GE was bonkers after he was made fun of in another channel, it dropped to 250 since.😂 The WE Glock just below it is still 200, but this was just funny.

Dunno about this, couple thousand through and my DE's nozzle is fine and I've been using TM mags, and most people recommend using the GM mags with the DE because the DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though). On the gas end, The max anyone should be putting through the MWS is red, black is overkill even in 0c, remember this gun was made to run duster gas in japan which has climates varying from scalding in the southerner areas to below freezing in the northernmost areas. Red is good for even 0c if you do your due diligence with sealing (Which is really required for running any gbbr in winter). Black gas is way more likely to break your gun (or even your mags, i found out). On the oil thing, I'll admit im not lubrication expert. So I'd never heard of Parker Hale gun oil, and after looking at it, it doesn't seem to contain anything that provides a boundary lubricant (e.g. PTFE/Syncolon my beloved). It's marketed as a rust preventer(?). What makes you recommend that?

Newish here too, had my DE MWS a few months now. So take what i say with a little salt, but from my experience and research - Firstly, the Bolt needs to be forward, and the gun has to be primed. Just rack the gun, and punch out the pins. Secondly, especially with green gas, you need to swap the nozzle return spring. Bavtac make the best out there afaik. Thirdly, Its a whole lot of maths and physics, but Gas guns are prone to this thing called Joule creep - far more than their AEG or spring counterparts. Without going to jargon, you'll notice that heavier BBs have proportionally more power than they would with AEGs. To remedy this you'll want to get this thing called an NPAS. The best one out there is the Federal Concepts NPAS/ FEDA valve (However they're out of stock right now, as he's swapping to a newer version, shouldn't be too long until they're back in stock), followed by the RA-Tech, then the Angry gun. Sub-Note, using weaker gas is actually what the TM system is made for, green gas is stronger than what the system is designed for, so using duster gas (otherwise known as 144a) is also a perfectly alright alternative to installing an NPAS. Lastly, after every game day. Especially if its outside, and especially with green gas. Explosive enterprises made a good video on how to maintain your gun, but its mainly - wipe the barrel, wipe the BCG, wipe the visible parts of the lower and all of the inside of the upper, apply lube where needed, and go.

Greetings, Heading into first year of Uni later this year. And I was hoping to double check with anyone here that I've done all my relevant checks before I head off to university with the slice of my collection I select to bring along with me. Specifically, I'm heading to Cardiff Uni (Hopefully). They have an Airsoft society, so I'm also going to ask in their socials some of the more specific stuff to cardiff uni. So this post is more for general advice from any other Uni Airsofters or anyone who lives in shared living. Main questions are: Is it alright to store my stuff in my Dorm room? How can I secure my stuff relatively cheaply? (Worst case, a flatmate or other person gets into my room and tries to nick them. How do I protect from that without buying a gun safe?) How transparent with flatmates should I be about my stuff - Should I explicitly state and show my guns, or do I hide them, etc...? What's the best way to transport my stuff outside my dorm in the city so that I don't have to worry about any panic? (I already have gunbags, but I'm a little worried they're still gonna understandably cause some panic) Obscure money saving tips, I already have all the general tips, but there's always something new I could learn. Any oddities to Airsoft in Wales? And anything else that might be relevant that I haven't though of. Anything helps.

I'm certain that has nothing to do with the BB weight, sounds more like hop problems. Sure, on lower power builds the performance increase of using heavier BBs is less noticeable than on higher power builds. Because the Heavy BBs have less initial velocity to conserve better than their lighter counterpart. But no matter what, if you have a hop that imparts the same relative spin on both the light and the heavy BB, the heavy BB goes farther. It wont run out of magnus effect sooner. It is heavier, heavy things conserve energy better, and as such will spin longer, prolonging the magnus effect, and conserving the muzzle energy for longer making them faster than lighter BBs at any range farther than ~10-20 metres.

Dunno where 85 is, im seeing them for 65ish on HPA. most i saw was 72 from bavtacs website. Either way, the extra 20 is indescribably worth it. The DE Mags are so much worse.

General consensus is, Avoid AngryGun like the plague for internals, its apparently a roll of the dice whether you get a workable one or a mish one. Both barrels are good but Laylax is apparently better than ML Crazyjets. Also look into the Federal Concepts NPAS instead of the RATech.

Loadouts for Milsims / Battlesims are completely up to the very specific event you go to. There are milsims that require you to pack 24/48/72hrs worth of equipment, food, water, etc... Because you are always in the game, and the game is 3 days long. They require you to wear a specific countries equipment, or equipment that a irregular militiamen would wear, because your team is meant to represent that. There are also milsims that are in effect just 10/12/14 hour long versions of skirmish games that have no more stringent rules than an average Sunday out. Find a milsim you can and want to go to. Look up its rules, how the event is structed, how the site normally works, what lodging if any is provided, what infrastructure (Do they have water on site, is there a food van or other food source, etc...). And then decide whether you have enough. Or ask someone who has been to that event or events like it for kit advice. And in general, a Primary is all you need. A slightly beat up M4 will serve most people well enough depending on what M4 it is. And for multi-day events, a Tent/Bivvi and a kelly kettle will serve you brilliantly. I'd also recommend taking some lighter eyepro if you don't already rock really minimal eyepro. I don't know how good you are with wearing full-seal goggles at god knows what time in the morning, but I find some nice ballistic shades to serve me well when I'm getting neat and tidy when I wake up.