TheFull9

Definitely. Also get some lipo/life packs instead of that ancient brick ?

A stock helps a ton with a spring shotgun, pushing backwards against your whole body through the stock when cycling is way easier than trying to 'pincer' both hands together by pushing forward on the grip at the same time as moving the pump. Frankly I don't know who's saying that a 2nd hand P226 is such a bad idea in airsoft, at least if it's a TM. You see far more other brands for sale than you do TM, because everyone usually keeps their TMs and the 226 is easily one of their best offerings.

I'm a tad confused at the idea of a replica law folder on an AEG, if your buffer tube is held on the standard way with a long screw it can't fold, unless this thing either comes with a plate to screw the tube to the hinged part or it's purely an aesthetic thing that goes over the tube? Or does your particular buffer tube have some threading that doesn't usually do anything but will work with the adapter?

The lower half of my Crye collection, wasn't sure if I'd put it here but it seemed to raise a stir on facebook.

The chunkiest pistol red dot on the thiccest pistol. That's a setup for a main film character, coming to you in 2020. All the reviews I've seen out of the states sat easier than an RMR/Delta point etc, it's a tube so you have something to line up/look down vs a flat plain. I know I've struggled a bit fishing for the dot shooting real handguns with RMRs, but I fired a Glock with a 6-second mount and a T-1 once and that was easier.

Couple of my PCs and one of the belts that I've put on my own site and forgot to post here. Pics are from years ago but they've not changed too much in the interim. Mostly FirstSpear, some Tyr, bits of TT, BFG and HSGI.

iX working pretty well. I feel that middle pic really just quintessentially sums up an awful lot of UK woodland sites, especially in the winter (that's been my experience at least). Almost entirely just brown, which is why DPM et al can stand out and also why I rate my plain CB kit and want some concamo-brown.

Fair one, I missed that. My old OD stuff (about 10 years ago) used to be quite different.

Current WAS kit isn't what I'd call OD, it's RG but they won't put that name on it since they're not using actual RG materials (which are expensive, not too common and mostly get absorbed by the big US brands). When I started out they made proper eye-searing bright coloured OD green kit, very different looking to the current production.

Time to break out the term Smörgåsbord.

A 9mm is very different from a 556, but a 6mm bb takes you out of the game either way and you can fit just as many in an SMG mag as you can in a lot of airsoft rifle mags, however the SMG mag is far more compact and usually lighter (sometimes a lot lighter).

That's almost entirely a player issue. Lots of the old, poorly maintained budget AEGs on the field will be shooting the same or with less energy than a TM pistol on green in the cold. Upping your muzzle energy is rarely the answer to a problem, least of all hit taking. TM single stack GBBs can and do struggle when it's ~7-8 C or less though. Personally I'd just get a new design of double stack (FNX/226E2/M9A1/HK) over co2 but obviously it's an option.

Fair one I never use my sights either.

In this game the bloody green tape on the mag would count let alone the rail and stock. Must take you absolutely ages to aim down the sight.

That's gone way over the 5 maximum allowed attachments in the loadout editor.

I've spent a fair bit of time on ranges and in games with stock peltors, there's no one ideal solution. The gels I've got hold in more heat and collect a lot of sweat in the trough at the bottom, but have cuts for the arms on your eye pro, put less pressure on your head and won't compress down to nothing over time like the stock foam. The gel certainly wins when it comes to cutting noise, I've had some painful gunshots come through gaps between my eye pro arms and stock foam pads.

They do offer a grey/silver finish on the slides on some guns. But it is a Glock and in the US at least there is literally no limit to the colour/paint/modding/aftermarket parts you can get for Glocks.

If that happens I'd try and find someone with some skill on a sewing machine or do it yourself if you've got one, you can just hand crank a decent needle through a couple of layers of webbing. It's as easy as a sew job comes to fix that kind of issue.

Ta ? Unfortunately it's been changed a lot since those pictures and that aspect has largely gone because the stock and grip are just plain FG now and it's getting an M-LOK rail for which I can't find proper FG panels, but it's far lighter now whereas with the stock handguard it weighed a ton for a short barrelled AR.

I don't really get this kinda thing tbh, I mean correct me if this isn't what you're doing, but people have this habit of putting you in a box/category if you publish videos/blogs etc. I'm literally just a gear guy, for any purpose or usage. I skirmish occasionally because that's what I did before I joined up, I've also spend a good few months in sandy places (far more time than at airsoft games) and it's been mildly spicy on occasion so I care about 'real' stuff too. I try to cover all potential uses in my content for that reason.

Nah my stuff is terrible, nobody watch it. To be fair I often wear some gloves in video where my hands will be seen close up, but usually I've torn back the skin around my nails on gun parts during the week and I just don't think people wanna see it. I sure can't stand watching videos when the subject can't even spend £2 on a nail brush to clear all the black shit out from under there when they wash their hands. Maybe if you're a chimney sweep or like work in an actual steel foundry and you're getting filthy all over every single day, but my hands get filthy from carbon and OX-24 all the time and I get them clean so I don't think there's an excuse for most people.

Load bearing kit won't really play in to that as much as your clothing, though obviously any rig will not allow sweat to evaporate through it unless it's like a vest that's mostly mesh. Primarily don't wear anything with cotton in it, cotton fibres love soaking up water, go for pure synthetics (poly and nylon) especially on the base layers so you don't have a moisture sat next to your skin, but this applies to all layers. Almost all camo uniforms are poly/nylon and cotton blended together, if you really want to stay dry get a cheap UK mil issue t-shirt (they wick and dry as quick as any gucci kit if not better) and wear a non-insulated softshell of the best quality you can afford (the fleece insulated ones hold on to sweat and makes it take far longer to be transported from the inside to the outside of the jacket). If you add in a mid-layer make sure it's highly breathable and lets air through, not something thick and dense that'll hold on to that evaporated sweat.

Depends what you mean by help, any sort of PC, Armour carrier, vest or large chest rig will inherently hold in heat. It's just a couple of layers of thick, non-breathable fabric - physics. Technically speaking when you don't need to protect your vital organs from bullets and frag a belt rig and layering with some jackets is better overall because you control how you layer up or down (and adjust heat retention with zips), whereas a piece of load-bearing equipment on your torso just retains a fixed amount of heat and sweat with no capacity for adjustment. Which layers to wear on your torso all depends on activity levels, ambient temp and precipitation/wind, plus it's also kind of a personal thing depending on how hot you personally 'run'. If you're always red and sweaty and rarely stand still then probably just a wicking t-shirt with uniform shirt/softshell jacket. If you're cold blooded and lay on the ground a lot then a long-sleeve insulated base layer followed by mid-layer (PCU L3 thick fleece, PCS issue 'buffalo' etc) with a smock or softshell over the top might be good. That would be a super simple breakdown of the bare bones for a typical UK autumn/winter day.