Sewdhull
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Posts posted by Sewdhull
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Initially it was fitting 18650 cells in spaces, 3 cells too long and a lopsided nunchuck the alternative.
But if a lopsided nunchuck fits so would a 2+2 nunchuck. If I built a 3 cell pack it might as well be 4.
It seems to me that trigger response is more a feeling than something tangible, given the short time a cycle takes anyway. Faster is better but if it was crucial we'd all be precocking to save 50ms. Esp if your already running at 3S.
Anyhoo, I wondered if there was a motor happy to run at that voltage, perhaps in combination with the right gears.
I do have a gun I considered dmring but Ive never really felt, other than the additional challenge, it was worth doing. Maybe over winter try it, for lulz.
Or maybe try pwm on my MOSFET.
I need to play more...
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13 hours ago, Leo Greer said:
Are you already using an 11.1v? I don’t know what the spring strength on those G36s is like, but if you can get away with it an 11.1v LiPo is by far the easiest and most effective trigger response upgrade.
If you suffer from double shots, you can short stroke and increase spring power, or even shorten the inner barrel and increase spring power.
This is the first move, things are very different on 11.1 from 7.4. You'd want a mosfet with it really. A simple one would do.
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Does anyone have any experience using 14.8v (4S) batteries.
I can see there being current draw issues but I can alter the motor duty cycle to mitigate that somewhat.
Perhaps someone has already fiddled around with this?
Maybe with the right motor (higher impedance) it's a thing...
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My src g36c has a high torque motor and that runs with a home made MOSFET. On 11v lipo I don't have feeding issues, but I do prefer a 9.9v life.
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The pic is correct , the comment is wrong .
The numbers are compressed length plus the piston or cylinder, so a weaker spring has a shorter compressed length.
Preload may be an issue testing this way as the spring starts unloaded.
But it works for thier purposes.
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I have found that pairing is useful but it's tricky to find ppl that have similar playstyle casually. However if you shout up, there's always someone that wants to have a buddy and whether they want to lead or be led doesn't matter to me. You soon find out where there strengths lie and how to progress from there.
The more organised sites do better but it's been a while for me so I don't know what it's like now
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This might be interesting
https://www.airsoftguns-europe.com/how-to-correctly-measure-the-real-stiffness-of-airsoft-springs
This puts the spring constant for a 100 at 550 N/m.
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Biodegradable bbs break down over a few years kicking about, in the warm it's quicker or in the sun.
I was under the impression PLA was biodegradable.
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I would love someone to actually measure Airsoft springs to see what thier spring constant is.
It's all horribly arbitrary at the moment.
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I think it would be worth going from .85J to 1.14J
The extra energy will allow you to get your FPS to 350 on .2, or go heavier .3 perhaps at a lower FPS.
Since the American models and the pdw do it already I wouldn't imagine there's a downside.
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Big drops in FPS like that is likely to be an air leak.
Too much hop can be the bucking or perhaps the nub is catching or the wheel faulty.
I guess you could get a big drop in FPS with excessive projection into the barrel but why that would happen I am unsure.
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Does everything seal correctly and does the bucking project into the chamber correctly?
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Problems with MOSFETs are pretty much issues with not switching them on properly or a poor circuit if it's not a simple switch. Also user error, which has been how I've ruined stuff on drones and planes.
For example the 3034 MOSFETs are not fully on with 7.4v, increasing its power dissipation and cooking it. You want 10v really, but it varies between devices.
Since I've never seen an Airsoft gun with a heatsink the heat dissipation is terrible.
Also the units tend to parallel the MOSFETs creating other issues and the insides of a gearbox is a poor environment for a circuit board.
I'd like to see the sensors inside the gearbox and the rest outside.
I rambled, sorry
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Speed out of the barrel drops of very quickly, and gravity only gives you a fixed amount of time before the BB hits the ground.
It's your hop that gives you the range by countering gravity with backspin.
Drag on the BB is not linear with speed, if you double the speed, drag quadruples.
Extend the time the spin lasts, with with more spin to start or a heavier BB to retain that spin longer and you will get more range.
This why a heavier BB will get you more range, more time spinning and a reduced speed loss as the heavier BB needs more drag to slow it compared to a lighter BB.
Also it's worth noting the Magnus effect, the result of the backspin, doesn't start until it goes forward through the air (leaves the barrel) and reduces according to the ratio of forward speed and spin until it goes negative, pushing the BB into the ground. I can't recall the ratio, it's been a while since I looked at the sums.
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You could look at a MOSFET as a very low resistance relay with an unlimited life.
A relay is swapping one set of contacts for another, but it would work ofcourse, great for isolating one circuit from another however.
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I have been told the same, but I'm not sure it's true.
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Relays? Omg
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It's going depend on your cylinder volume what the max barrel length should be, along with BB weight.
Whilst FPS matters for range you lose FPS very quickly once the BB has left the barrel.
The main things are energy, which is a combination of speed and mass, and the BB spin.
A heavier BB will go further than a lighter one at the same energy, but a heavier BB needs more time to pick up the energy which can only be done with more push in the barrel or more barrel to get pushed in.
Aegs have a fixed cylinder volume so your spring will increase the pressure but not the volume as it gets stronger.
More pressure is faster acceleration so you can run out of barell with plenty of air pressure still in the barrel.
Heavier bbs need more pressure to accelerate them so they accelerate slower and spend more time in the barrel and pick up more energy by the time they leave the barrel if it's long enough.
But for range it is the bbs spin that creates lift whilst moving forward and extending the range and heavier bbs slow down slower than light ones extending range still further.
There isn't a lot of science in Airsoft but the Airsoft trajectory project from many years ago did some.
http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/
Since an aeg is looking at 1.14 joules here in the UK, things like air seal and hop matter more since that level of energy is easy to reach even with 300mm barrels, or shorter.
FPS matters less than the joules.
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Brushless are nice but they don't always play nice with etus.
A std on off MOSFET is fine tho.
Brushless should be torquiest motors, last much longer than a brushed motor, stay cooler and are kinder to your batteries.
It's an investment 🙂
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If the motor doesn't get too hot the magnets will stay good.
You can buy new brushes and clean the commutator.
I'm a huge fan of brushless motors but they can't be controlled like a brushed motor. Complicated (fully featured) MOSFETs, which I don't use, can be problematic with brushless motors and I can see why.
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Active braking dissipates the energy in the moving parts into the motor as heat so you may notice that.
If you do have a brushless motor which is nice for lots of reasons, active braking may be incompatible with with your trigger unit.
For active braking to happen the motor gets shorted, which can't happen if the brushless motor has no power as it needs power to turn on the motors MOSFETs, assuming it has them in place for motor shorting.
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I've always figured that the bevel gear gets bearings and the rest get bushings.
However I would have thought that good bearings could take the forces, I just don't know how good the bearing I have access to are.
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Precocking is useful in semi because instead of the trigger starting the compression on the spring, it releases and already tensioned spring.
Saves you some milliseconds.
Downside is that your gearbox gubbins are under load all the time which will increase wear. You're likely to use more current as you are starting the motor under load to release the sector gear. Whether that matters is a matter for you.
Active braking is designed to stop the gearbox quickly, so it doesn't over run and cycle or part cycle an extra shot, or I would guess stop the action so that precocking is cocked in the right place.
I think the trigger response becomes moot if you're running on 11.1v as things are pretty quick already. Probably an order of magnitude better than your reaction time.
20rps is 50ms a shot, but a shot on semi probs ads 25ms to that for the motor to wind up.
- Bistro Boy, C-Diddy and gavinkempsell
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Airsoft AUG Stock made of fiberglass reinforced nylon?
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted
I presume the stocks are hollow and you could part fill it ( where there was no internals) with something, p40 maybe.