Sewdhull

The nozzle must insert itself into the lips at least a little to create a seal and in my guns the nozzle penetrates the lips enough so that they are past the taper of the nozzle. You'll get misfeeds and air escaping into the magwell if the nozzle and lips aren't working right. Different hop units and buckings sit differently and hop units in particular can be sized differently than an original for example and need longer or maybe shorter nozzles.

Id be tempted to get a 2Ah lipo, 3.7v with a jst connector. Bigger if you wanted.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1000mah-3s-20-40c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html maybe a lil fat?

piston o ring, nozzle or hop rubber would be my choices, all can be checked just dropping the gearbox out and checking pressures in a ballparky way

so that fin gets bent up a bit on each rotation, esp if you have play there, so it work hardens on the lower area I guess then snaps.

It seems CNC from a block of POM is considered best from retro arms. Aluminium was rejected for unknown reasons. https://www.retroarms.com/news/tappet-plates-and-how-they-are-different

Have you got the spring the right way up? The spring as I recall is off centre from its mounting points so has a right way to be fitted.

Its hard to get 3d printed things like this to retain the strength of the material you are using without adding more material to the design by way of fillets or larger cross section. Nylons are great materials but you cant clone an injection moulded design by 3d printing it and retain the strength and there's no real affordable alternative. PC and ASA again are great materials but a tappet plate gets lots of shock loading that PC would normally take, but the design of the tappet plate, I think would leave it too weak. So short answer Nylon 6 or 12 are your best reasonable cost materials but altering the tappet plate details would get you more, eg a curve instead of a right angle at the nozzle end ( entirely dependant on the clearances you have in that area and the travel of your nozzle) and the same at the fin. Also print orientation and slicer settings to get the filament direction to follow the stresses. Reducing the clearances ( Print it a little fatter )so the plate is better supported and so twists and flexes less is likely to help. Gcode is CNC language and I think some where like PCB way could use that to CNC you something, or print it in a better material for you.

1Ah 11.1v lipo are slimmer than a stick using 18650 cells for example. Hobbyking have dimensions listed for their cells.

also that lonex description is full of bull dung

looks like my src by the plastics. if you pop out the stock release button i can help further as they arent the same src to jg

Those 4 prongs are clearly a weak area, but as above its no bad thing really. A repair is unlikely to last unless you've been able to reinforce it somehow. Probs best to get a couple in.

Excellent, what MOSFET are you using?

Ive used alot of turnigy batteries over the years and they have been great. ive got some nuprols and they have been ok, but clearly a lower standard of battery ( not sure it matters for airsoft tho) Its not a good idea to store lipos at a low state of charge, but stored full they will just lose charge over time without any immediate issue. So charge your lipos after use, full or storage level... Ive used storage charging if im storing them.. ie for weeks or months, but not when they are in used weekly etc. Storage charging is just less stressful for a battery in the same way charging to 80% for normal use is less stressful and gives alot more cycles ( like a LOT more cycles) Ive got some life batteries that i have been using for years, 8 to 10 years maybe and they are still servicable, but they have lived a low stress life.

I imagine a tm with issues is worth repairing given the prices new so won't turn up in the boneyard. Or TM have a different policy with regard to returns of faulties. I have never once thought of the resale value of my Airsoft stuff, esp before I buy something. All the guns I have bought have been reliable out of the box, none tm, but some cyma, SRC, AA some others. I don't believe there is anything objectively better with a TM, ppl chasing the best surface finish or trademarks that don't matter to me can buy what they will ofcourse, TM might have a better QC system, I don't know that either but the price differences are just way too much for there to be value in it for me.

Easier to sort the mosfets than the awful magazine, oh and 600 quid.. no thanks

You're taking chances with glasses even tho they are comfy, I have some bolle trackers with straps and they work well. Anything without en166 being sold in Europe should be viewed with suspicion. ASTM isnt a high enough standard in my view, not enough margin.

Those mil specs have multiple specs and smallest part of that spec is the resistance against projectiles and there are multiple versions of that spec. Testing methods are different between the specs also. There are clauses that reference other standards and in general top end milspec stuff will not be affordable for airsoft. The highest standards of protection, which ppl will quote you wont see for reasonable money, you'll see the lesser protection some of which is less than the en166 variants. If you can find and read a copy of the spec you will see what I mean. I can only find snippets of the spec and old versions which I doubt are reliable.

You'd want the sensors close to each other i think, so the measurement is less an average and more a snapshot. Timing can be done accurately over short periods and since you're matching the speed of light with a bbs doing 500fps I don't think you want the sensors far apart. The further apart the sensors are the more the averaging effect of the distance between measurement and the less you will see any differences in speed as they are lost to averaging.

Looks great and I can see why ppl would do it.

There's nothing wrong with vorsk bbs. I had some weighed not long ago.

Just depends how you want your realism. Ppl make it harder for themselves with a more realistic GBB, same for a tracer/muzzle flash/muzzle smoke. Id love a flash/smoke thing, i dont need my bullets to light up. I imagine the closest you'd get now to real is muzzle flash lighting the last of the gas out of a gbbr with a muzzle flash unit. I just don't want the hassle and cost of Gbbr mags (or an umbilical)

Pull the motor out and examine the gear on the end. if it looks ok, put it back in and readjust it. Id pull out the grip and box too. You may have a chunk of gear in there perhaps

Yours might be off a bit, theirs might be off a bit, temperature changes things. Stuff can happen do a gun, if you drop t maybe or stuff like that. Did you chrono it again at home?

print in PA6 or PA6 GF maybe