Davegolf

Measure stuff, with a vernier, compare to the original TM parts, correct/match the aftermarket parts.

It can only be a duff bucking or the hop arm is duff/skewing under pressure.

Having been through all the platforms over and over, HPA powered assualt and sub guns just dont make sense IMO, if you play paintball style with a big ol' bottle on your back fair enough. HPA works best with long barrel lengths to achieve efficient gas use / vs fps. So if you have a 16" assualt rifle fine, but sub 16"/400mm inner barrel length youll find air consumption rises exponentially. The problem with butt stock powered HPA is you have a small air capacity, hence short barrelled guns that youre likely going to be firing a high volume of semi shots or full auto bursts just doesnt work. In all my playing over the years this is the TLDR for me; GAS - best for pistols HPA - best for snipers / DMR AEG - best for everything else In airsoft the best all round setup is a well built AEG with circa 330mm inner barrel. Youll have a riot indoors with it and can reach out to 60-65M outside with it. If you want something smaller a built TM P90 is full stealth, insane indoors and will still range out 55-60M. This has to be the most underated airsoft gun out there. Only caveat to the above is that if you crave realism, gun functionality and interaction, TM MWS all day long. For me i run AEG main gun and a GBB pistol 'for my kicks'.

As a long term player, who’s always worn glasses, the best bang for buck goggles that will fit over normal sized glasses are Bolle Pilots. They vent pretty well and don’t interfere with getting a cheek weld / looking down the gun sights. Hi quality mesh goggs from Heroshark really are the best, but as others have said they do reduce light transmission so are best used outdoors IMO. Ultimately try and keep yourself cool and keep moving. Fan assisted goggs are the best but noisyish and expensive. Or go contacts, it’s one less surface to fog up.

Would be sick with a little folding stock or something!

Yeh just the usual pre/post game prep, whip the piston out and TechT GunSav the seal/bore, wipe down all the mateal on metal with a lint free cloth / isopropyl wipe, apply gun oil. Check the barrel/bucking is clear and clean. Enjoy, prime GBBR weather!

9 months later got around to finishing up the BRT CAR15 SD, however been so long I forgot my plan to short stroke this one so need to pull the box out again😂

oh dear 🙄

FYI in the end i commented on a FB post of theirs to try and get attention, it worked, they found my emails, took the motor last thursday and have repaired it. If you ever get 4 red light flashes on your Warhead motor it means there is a hall sensor fault.

I did that build many moons ago, its so simple and light, classic front sight post, nice!

Still nothing… 3 attempts via email.

New yes I originally tried to contact via FB Messenger but the auto response is you have to email as FB was spammed to much??

Hi all! Got a dead warhead motor, tried contacting Warhead fia FB, they only apparently deal via email now, so emailed multiple times ([email protected]) no response. Is there some big holiday / other contact / no support anymore? Cheers

Re black gas, in freezing conditions its pressure is considerably reduced, yes if you are stupid and use it when warmer breakages will occur. You are correct Parker gun oil does not contain PTFE or any other modern slippery substance, it is a mineral oil of which its natural properties provide lubrication. It is also lightweight, so it penetrates, does not clog, and it cleans, it is not a one time treatment, it is meant to be applied and removed with each usage of the RIF just as you would a real firearm. I mean i havent run MWS's since they came out or anything.

For summer in the UK run Nuprol 2.0 / green or weaker. Colder times of the year Nuprol 3.0 / red Winter 0c Nuprol 4.0 / black Basically you are using gas at different pressures to maintain the same FPS year round. Buy a spare nozzle return spring, it will break eventually but this will be a good few thousand rounds! The nub and the plastic buffer part 'b' are the only parts that need upgrading or protecting. Get into the routing of cleaning your gun before or after each game day. Lube the piston seal before or after each game day with TechT silicone grease. Lightly oil all metal on metal moving parts with Parker Hale gun oil. Keep the inner barrel clean, and the bucking dry. Always store your mags with gas in them.

All plastics and rubbers when moulded use a 'release agent' during manufacturing.

Indeed, how does a rubber impart backspin? Friction. This is why you always want the rubber bone dry of all lubricants.

Always remember to wash your new rubbers with fairy and hot water guys n gals! Use your nylon barrel rod to turn it inside out without damaging it

The front opening TT MAV with molle back panel is the best load carrying setup thats not a vest/plate carrier, its very comfy fully loaded, simple and light in itself. Money no object in my experience, comfiest plate carrier is the Slickster I ran the MAV setup above for years, great kit. Im currently trialing my velcro inner/outer rigger gun belt setup, but added a British PLCE yoke for some extra stability when running with a lot of gear on the belt (GBB pistol, 3x mags, 2x AR mags, 1x med, 1x utility, 1x Navtel, 1x dump) Means i can throw a plate carrier on with a triple front AR mag for CQB etc, or a Combat Smock for woodland, all super low profile / minimal snagging.

Front Sight Post

Definitely all about the looks! love them Manta covers! Also love FSP’s

@Wavey_Gravey i definitely recognise the bio hazard camo optic

Night games are the best! Enjoy!

I must admit i have done the above many times! Sad as it is!