Leo Greer

More pics would be amazing, especially outside of the motor cage. Almost certainly though, it's a standard Chihai China Neo motor or similar. What RPS do you get from it with the M14? Is the gear ratio stock?

Aside from the FPS issue... It would be extremely useful to see comprehensive pics of the internals as well as videos showing the performance at the chronograph.

Spring twang can also simply be caused by the spring itself. Some are just twangy. If it bothers you, you can try to fix it, but the twang itself isn't doing anything harmful.

Myself and a few others did some testing a little while back. Here's the results we got: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/crack-open-some-bbs-bb-quality-and-comparison-discussion.67345/

I was able to recreate an optical sticker by simply using scotch tape and a permanent marker. Just marker the correct area and you're off and running. Scotch tape is also much more resistant to being pried up or ruined by the edge of the gearbox. Also, as a tip, you can file down the edge of the gearbox that rubs on the sticker itself to solve the issue.

Whoa, why are we talking about time dilation here?? And sausage! Gotta say, I'm more interested in the latter.

That's the Systema PTW (Professional Training Weapon) system, which was an early version of a "complete remake" gearbox. They can still be found today, but they're mostly used as very expensive training weapons, as building one properly is usually in the realm of 2K USD. Basically, everything is completely different from a standard V2 AEG. It's not compatible in any way, except for some PTW hop units that allow the use of AEG hop rubbers and barrels. http://www.systema-engineering.com

As far as I'm aware, there aren't any ETUs w/ brushless controller included. We really only have a dozen or so makers of brushless motors for airsoft... if there was I'd be in.

Non-vented piston heads used to be the standard. And they do work, just not at higher RPS. At low RPS they're able to simply pull in air through the nozzle, but above about 18-20 this ceases to work. There are some mfgs that still use them. Seconds on a chrono and trying each piece individually. This is by far the best way to see the actual effect of what you're doing. Without a chronograph it's just guesswork.

The 10ms starting delay is likely because of startup torque. Brushless motors have a lot of instantaneous torque and have even been known to snap their drive shafts without a ramping program. Of course if you're using a 28TPA you'll have more torque. If you used a brushless motor of the same speed you'd have more torque. I used a 33K RPM T238 to pull an SP170 spring (M190 equivalent) in a DSG build and it still performed at high efficiency. Good luck getting a brushed motor of similar RPM to perform the same. Also, torque is not everything. Trigger response is still limited by the maximum RPM of the motor. For example, I have a 38TPA motor that runs about 15K RPM on 11.1v. Even using 12:1 gears, the trigger response is slow. Hence, I use a 14.8v to up the RPM.

As a note, brushless motors have a lot more torque than brushed. This varies with build and motor, but, as an example, The T238 brushess motor I use in my main build runs at about 99% efficiency (shooting 1.5J), rather than the more typical 80%. I can also highly recommend the T238 brushless motors. I use two, and have a few hundred thousand cycles combined on them. I've had no issues (yet...), and have found that their pinions mesh beautifully with both stock style Chinese/XYT sets, and "upgrade" sets such as SHS. Are they worth it? That depends entirely on you. For my purposes, the answer is yes. They don't go in every build, but on my go to replica that I pick up and play with constantly, the low power draw, no heat, smooth cycling, and reliability is nice. But, of course, they cost 3x a normal brushed motor that'll do just fine, and 1.5x a really nice brushed motor like a Tienly. It's all up to your personal opinion.

There's some confusion going on here. First off, Krytacs do not have ETUs. Second, it's possible to put a Perun MOSFET in a P90, but a MOSFET is only the chip that protects your trigger contacts from voltage and aids efficiency a bit. Nothing else. Some ETUs have MOSFETs, but no MOSFET is an ETU. Perun makes both. Your EASIEST option if you want a P90 with an ETU is to buy the Novi. However, there is also this: https://perunairsoft.pl/products/p90/ You should do some visual research and identify the dimensional differences between the Perun P90 ETU and the Krytac trigger unit to see what you might have to mod. In general, Perun products do not fit Krytac gearboxes without modification, but the mods may be simple.

I totally agree with your advice here, but just had one comment. 😁 I'm obviously a Johnny Abroadlander from one of the most scorching areas of my country. I often play in heat that can exceed 110 deg. Fahrenheit or 43 deg. Celsius, and I prefer 50 deg. rubbers in all my "rifleman" builds. And for me this is 1.5J. I don't go higher until exceeding 1.8J or so. This is just my comment, do with it as you will!

Oooh, pwetty…

Pretty sure you’re not supposed to put that in there

Never messed with one myself, but from what I’ve gathered, they become harmful in FA above a certain point (15-20, depending on build), due to increased drag. The gains seem to be minimal. I can ask the guys over on ASF for more info if the conversation persists, since there’s a few guys who’ve worked extensively with the idea.

Exactly. Really not huge. It’s a small briefcase. I should’ve clarified, I bring my kit to safe zones, but mainly it’s for when me and a few buddies drive out into the mountains and play. We happen to know a guy who knows a guy who gave us permission to play on certain public land tracts, and if we drive two hours and something breaks down I like to be able to fix it.

My personal airsoft medkit contains…. 3 Phillips screwdrivers: one long for buffer tubes, one short and stubby for gearbox case screws, one small mainly for poking wires and checking shimming. 1 flathead for opening gearboxes and prying things that need prying 1 pair of needle nose pliers 1 pair of channel-lock pliers about 30 Allen wrenches 2 Guarder chromed cylinders, one full and one 3/4 2 pistons, one Aztech lightened w/ some assorted head and one SHS 15t FMR w/ POM head 2 sets of gears, one SHS 18:1 and one XYT 18:1 2 assorted cylinder heads 2 neodymium motors, typically one Arcturus 28K and one Tienly 35K or whatever I’m not using… 1 Perun hybrid unit w/ trigger (believe I’m using Krytac trigs as spares currently) 1 265mm Lambda 5 inner barrel 1 Prowin hop unit, 1 Maxx hop unit, and whatever other units I might have around… a couple generic fit tappet plates and nozzles 1 tube of aquarium silicone 1 tin of molykote grease 1 tube of superlube teflon tape duct tape scotch tape aluminum tape one tube of steel epoxy (until I used it all and forgot to add more…) A few corks 100 0.1mm shims 1 sharpie king size 1 hand file set from China 1 battery checker 1 thing of isopropyl alcohol 1 thing of brass polish 1 set of electronic calipers 1 tube of blue threadlocker 1 small tube of superglue some 8mm vinyl tubing and probably a lot of random things that I’m not remembering…

In your situation length is not essential, and even in tighter builds that 17mm is basically irrelevant.

I’m not knowledgeable enough to know if the idea holds water, but I had the idea of direct drive brushless, similar to what many RC helicopters use. Our current hearing system was invented in the age of ferrite motors pulled from the printer industry…

I should mention, never trust Evike! That place is a well of horrible information. They still recommend putting silicone oil in your green gas/propane.

The trouble with side feeding is simple: corners. And catching on bushes or whatever. I’ve brainstormed having a parallel gearbox, but the issues are many: weight, size, extra complication if you want to use the same motor setup, issues with reffing such replicas, etc. The simplest option is getting to know the refs and using an HPA system like the GATE Pulsar that allows you to have different power settings for each fire mode. That way you can have one mode as your DMR mode. The concept is very interesting though.

A modern V2 should have no issues with cracking below an M150. I know a lot of very low quality boxes do end up having issues… **cough cough** Ares **cough** …but that really shouldn’t be the norm. The V2 design as a whole is susceptible to strain on the front corners, but a lot of cracking issues are caused more by tolerance issues. For example, aftermarket cylinder heads with bumpers on the front are notorious for ruining shells. Or the issues with shells themselves, like many of the RA CNC shells have had, where pegs are in the wrong places, etc. But now to the actual question… For me, it looks like a lot like a P90 with a very slightly longer inner barrel (300mm), and an internal mid cap/hopper system, where you pour BBs in, wind about 2,000, and don’t touch anything for the rest of the game. Electronic trigger, throw a few rails on there. Design a hop system that’s screwed into the frame and is actually stabilized with good tolerances. Add an adjustable rubber clamp to the end of the outer barrel to hold the inner steady (just a grub screw would do well). And I’d use standard bushings just for simplicity. Brushless motor + potentiometer to finish it off.

In my experience with V2 gearboxes, spur gear bearings are the most likely to fail by far. Over here in America we use stronger springs, so keep that in mind, but typically if you don’t use J-caged bearings they’ll inevitably fail above about an M110 or equivalent spring. This is a general guideline and not a rule—as other have pointed out, the individual variables are endless—I have builds running 30+ RPS and 1.5J that still use the bearings that came with the gearbox shell (Lonex). However, I’ve also failed more than one spur gear bearing at similar power. Currently, my general wisdom is that I’ll put 3mm J-caged bearings wherever I can fit them, and if not use either FLT 2.5mm bushings or RA 2mm if I need lower profile. This seems to yield a slightly quieter box than bushings alone. Of course, this is extremely variable, depending on your shimming skill, etc, etc, but I’ve been able to achieve near noiselessness on a few builds. Nothing wrong with a little gear noise, but the satisfaction of firing and hearing nothing but the piston hit the cylinder head is wonderful.

I recommend asking the same question over on AirsoftSniperForum. The guys there have a lot of experience using and modding Mk23s and clones.