Leo Greer

In terms of recommending a gun, the first step is for you to go online, look around, and simply see what appeals to you. 😁 The right replica for you is highly individual based on what you value, and ultimately you're going to be happiest with the gun that presents the most characteristics you value, regardless of who's recommending what. The first step is for you to evaluate what you value. Do you have a specific pattern that you like? M4? M16? G36? AK-47, 74, 12? Do you have an overall profile that you like? Do you value ROF? Range? Upgradeability? My best beginner advice is to see what looks good to you, and then bring that back here and we can steer you into something that'll be quality and you'll enjoy.

Leo's Gameplan for Forum Success Step 1: Start over again as a beginner. "Hello all! I've never played airsoft but I'm here to learn new things and increase my knowledge." Step 2: Don't ask to be spoonfed, ask for info about things you've already researched. "I like the look of M4 replicas and the ones by G&G seem to be well-received; how do y'all feel about the CM-16? Is it reliable? What kind of range and accuracy could I expect? Thanks for the info!" Step 3: Take it step by step. Play with a rental, get your own gun, learn to play well, observe and learn. Gain experience. And then start asking about a field. You are not getting any responses to your question because you are asking the wrong question. They're just trying to point you towards the right ones.

😢 😄🤠

Easy answer... the KWA grips will fit right. But aside from that, you can sand the grip to correct fitment. Basically you need to attach the grip alone to the properly shimmed gearbox and make sure the baseplate angle even lines up correctly. If it does line up, that means you just need to sand until the grip baseplate and the bottom of the gearbox are flush. If your required motor insertion angle is weird (as some are), then your best bet is to simply use a KWA grip.

Typical ammo load? I know nothing about G36 mags, but I like to carry an EPM1 or two full. Chances are I never use that many shots... but sometimes I come close (infinite respawn games + really bad players).

Most likely the motor is just fine for your purposes. Just keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't start smoking. 😉

More pics would be amazing, especially outside of the motor cage. Almost certainly though, it's a standard Chihai China Neo motor or similar. What RPS do you get from it with the M14? Is the gear ratio stock?

Aside from the FPS issue... It would be extremely useful to see comprehensive pics of the internals as well as videos showing the performance at the chronograph.

Spring twang can also simply be caused by the spring itself. Some are just twangy. If it bothers you, you can try to fix it, but the twang itself isn't doing anything harmful.

Myself and a few others did some testing a little while back. Here's the results we got: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/crack-open-some-bbs-bb-quality-and-comparison-discussion.67345/

I was able to recreate an optical sticker by simply using scotch tape and a permanent marker. Just marker the correct area and you're off and running. Scotch tape is also much more resistant to being pried up or ruined by the edge of the gearbox. Also, as a tip, you can file down the edge of the gearbox that rubs on the sticker itself to solve the issue.

Whoa, why are we talking about time dilation here?? And sausage! Gotta say, I'm more interested in the latter.

That's the Systema PTW (Professional Training Weapon) system, which was an early version of a "complete remake" gearbox. They can still be found today, but they're mostly used as very expensive training weapons, as building one properly is usually in the realm of 2K USD. Basically, everything is completely different from a standard V2 AEG. It's not compatible in any way, except for some PTW hop units that allow the use of AEG hop rubbers and barrels. http://www.systema-engineering.com

As far as I'm aware, there aren't any ETUs w/ brushless controller included. We really only have a dozen or so makers of brushless motors for airsoft... if there was I'd be in.

Non-vented piston heads used to be the standard. And they do work, just not at higher RPS. At low RPS they're able to simply pull in air through the nozzle, but above about 18-20 this ceases to work. There are some mfgs that still use them. Seconds on a chrono and trying each piece individually. This is by far the best way to see the actual effect of what you're doing. Without a chronograph it's just guesswork.

The 10ms starting delay is likely because of startup torque. Brushless motors have a lot of instantaneous torque and have even been known to snap their drive shafts without a ramping program. Of course if you're using a 28TPA you'll have more torque. If you used a brushless motor of the same speed you'd have more torque. I used a 33K RPM T238 to pull an SP170 spring (M190 equivalent) in a DSG build and it still performed at high efficiency. Good luck getting a brushed motor of similar RPM to perform the same. Also, torque is not everything. Trigger response is still limited by the maximum RPM of the motor. For example, I have a 38TPA motor that runs about 15K RPM on 11.1v. Even using 12:1 gears, the trigger response is slow. Hence, I use a 14.8v to up the RPM.

As a note, brushless motors have a lot more torque than brushed. This varies with build and motor, but, as an example, The T238 brushess motor I use in my main build runs at about 99% efficiency (shooting 1.5J), rather than the more typical 80%. I can also highly recommend the T238 brushless motors. I use two, and have a few hundred thousand cycles combined on them. I've had no issues (yet...), and have found that their pinions mesh beautifully with both stock style Chinese/XYT sets, and "upgrade" sets such as SHS. Are they worth it? That depends entirely on you. For my purposes, the answer is yes. They don't go in every build, but on my go to replica that I pick up and play with constantly, the low power draw, no heat, smooth cycling, and reliability is nice. But, of course, they cost 3x a normal brushed motor that'll do just fine, and 1.5x a really nice brushed motor like a Tienly. It's all up to your personal opinion.

There's some confusion going on here. First off, Krytacs do not have ETUs. Second, it's possible to put a Perun MOSFET in a P90, but a MOSFET is only the chip that protects your trigger contacts from voltage and aids efficiency a bit. Nothing else. Some ETUs have MOSFETs, but no MOSFET is an ETU. Perun makes both. Your EASIEST option if you want a P90 with an ETU is to buy the Novi. However, there is also this: https://perunairsoft.pl/products/p90/ You should do some visual research and identify the dimensional differences between the Perun P90 ETU and the Krytac trigger unit to see what you might have to mod. In general, Perun products do not fit Krytac gearboxes without modification, but the mods may be simple.

I totally agree with your advice here, but just had one comment. 😁 I'm obviously a Johnny Abroadlander from one of the most scorching areas of my country. I often play in heat that can exceed 110 deg. Fahrenheit or 43 deg. Celsius, and I prefer 50 deg. rubbers in all my "rifleman" builds. And for me this is 1.5J. I don't go higher until exceeding 1.8J or so. This is just my comment, do with it as you will!

Oooh, pwetty…

Pretty sure you’re not supposed to put that in there

Never messed with one myself, but from what I’ve gathered, they become harmful in FA above a certain point (15-20, depending on build), due to increased drag. The gains seem to be minimal. I can ask the guys over on ASF for more info if the conversation persists, since there’s a few guys who’ve worked extensively with the idea.

Exactly. Really not huge. It’s a small briefcase. I should’ve clarified, I bring my kit to safe zones, but mainly it’s for when me and a few buddies drive out into the mountains and play. We happen to know a guy who knows a guy who gave us permission to play on certain public land tracts, and if we drive two hours and something breaks down I like to be able to fix it.

My personal airsoft medkit contains…. 3 Phillips screwdrivers: one long for buffer tubes, one short and stubby for gearbox case screws, one small mainly for poking wires and checking shimming. 1 flathead for opening gearboxes and prying things that need prying 1 pair of needle nose pliers 1 pair of channel-lock pliers about 30 Allen wrenches 2 Guarder chromed cylinders, one full and one 3/4 2 pistons, one Aztech lightened w/ some assorted head and one SHS 15t FMR w/ POM head 2 sets of gears, one SHS 18:1 and one XYT 18:1 2 assorted cylinder heads 2 neodymium motors, typically one Arcturus 28K and one Tienly 35K or whatever I’m not using… 1 Perun hybrid unit w/ trigger (believe I’m using Krytac trigs as spares currently) 1 265mm Lambda 5 inner barrel 1 Prowin hop unit, 1 Maxx hop unit, and whatever other units I might have around… a couple generic fit tappet plates and nozzles 1 tube of aquarium silicone 1 tin of molykote grease 1 tube of superlube teflon tape duct tape scotch tape aluminum tape one tube of steel epoxy (until I used it all and forgot to add more…) A few corks 100 0.1mm shims 1 sharpie king size 1 hand file set from China 1 battery checker 1 thing of isopropyl alcohol 1 thing of brass polish 1 set of electronic calipers 1 tube of blue threadlocker 1 small tube of superglue some 8mm vinyl tubing and probably a lot of random things that I’m not remembering…

In your situation length is not essential, and even in tighter builds that 17mm is basically irrelevant.