Colin Allen

Probably around 40-50m range.

Running an 11.1v will tend to wear out moving parts rather more rapidly and may lead to heavier wear on trigger contacts unless they are protected by a mosfet. Your motor should survive although it will also wear more rapidly. You could also increase the rate of fire by fitting a faster motor; the SHS 16TPA "High Torque" motor provides a good balance between response and speed. What rate of fire are you getting on the 7.4v battery? Support weapons do not really need high rates of fire; they need to be able to put down solid bursts that keep the other team pinned down so that the rest of your team can engage them.

Those are indeed Double Eagle ones. I bought one at their now sadly defunct Tower site, much to the amusement of those around me in the safe zone. I took it out as my primary weapon in the next game and was also amazed at the range and accuracy. They are great little guns.

JG SA58.

Yes, that would be rather nice!

You forgot you got rid of the Crocs?

I agree that most guns do not need them. However, getting rid of all the fiddly little gearbox parts is a positive, while features such as precocking and trigger sensitivity are helpful when most players seem to be running them or using HPA guns that shoot if you breathe on the trigger.

I agree; most of the mosfets and ETUs that guns come with are not great and I end up replacing them anyway.

As I wrote earlier; "Every gearbox is different." Follow the Hamster's guide and learn to shim as a bonus.

Every gearbox is different; the idea is to shim the gears so that they do not rub against each other and run freely and quietly with minimal lateral movement and the lowest possible load on the battery. Regard this as learning opportunity.

I would recommend a Perun V2 Hybrid over the Aster; however, others may disagree.

It is very much the L1A1 that interests me; I have an Ares, which has taken a fair amount of work to get it running nicely, and would welcome a better designed and better built version. I have just bought an SA58, which I am looking forward to upgrading when it arrives and I get some time.

The Perun ETU++ is a definite upgrade; however, before replacing stuff it might be wise to check the continuity of the cabling and, in particular, your soldering if you have a multimeter or can get access to one.

Indeed; the magazines are one aspect that worry me.

Hopefully, the FAL offering will include an L1A1. As for the East German AKs, from a purely selfish perspective, I would rather they did not; I like having a couple of AKs that are so different from 99%+ of those on airsoft sites.

It is possible that you have a dry joint where you have soldered. Using the gun once a week for six months would be unlikely to seriously damage even the rather poor G&G trigger unit.

The staff may not have known. However, given the resignations of directors, it seems that they were aware that it was going south in September, so taking a booking that late is pretty poor.

Nail bars.

"When I pull the trigger several times now out of 30 pulls it will cycle..." What do you mean? Do you mean that it cycles on every pull or that it is only cycling on some pulls?

Painted by Stevie Wonder after someone cut his fingers off.

Given the provided dimensions, the first of those will almost certainly not fit in a buffer tube. I have pointed you at one (Rebel 11.1v 1150mAh) which will fit. As for the Rebel 1450mAh, I will repeat that I have the 1300mAh version of that, which is slightly smaller in cross section than the provided dimensions of the 1450mAh but possibly the same nominal dimensions, and it cannot be shoved into either of the two buffer tubes that I have access to. Li-ion batteries are overpriced and not ideal for airsoft; there is no way on this planet that one is going in your buffer tube. I and others have tried to help you, yet you seem to be ignoring whatever anyone tells you and are just throwing up different batteries at random. This is my last post on this thread.

Those are great for AKs if the gun is ok on a 7.4. This is one in my only M4 with a buffer tube; however, it is a G&G and the screw plate is a long way up the tube. It fits perfectly in the lad’s M4 though as that has the screw right down the end of the buffer tube.