Pollynator_bravo2
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Posts posted by Pollynator_bravo2
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On 06/08/2024 at 10:38, Lozart said:
Absolutely, other than being drier than a nuns fanny it seems to be in pretty good nick.
That was before being cleaned and lubed up. Was wetter than Gemma Collins mouth in greggs
On 06/08/2024 at 12:59, Colin Allen said:It is surprising how good some gearboxes look after a long period. I opened up the lad’s blowback G&G AKM on Sunday to deal with a low power issue, after it had not been opened for many years. Apart from a worn piston head O ring, it was pretty much perfect.
it was still a bugger to do due to the stupid pneumatic blowback system.
What’s the correct O ring size for the piston and cylinder head ?
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3 hours ago, Colin Allen said:
The nozzle is not fully engaging with the hop rubber lips. Is the hop unit pushed fully back against the gearbox? If it isn't, use some O rings in front of it to push it back. If it is, try longer nozzles or get a variable nozzle.
It’s a weird one as I grabbed the old gear box that came out of it and serviced it fully. When I opened it up the tappet plate looked different. It has a moon shape on the tail end and there is a delay chip however the nozzle is shorter than what I had in the eon gb. When I fitted it all back together (with a clean inner barrel and bucking) I got 335 fps and 1.28j (no hop applied) 🤦♂️🤷🏻♂️
I guess this is an easier problem to fix the the latter lol
images are of the gb that came with the gun when I brought it 2nd hand
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On 02/08/2024 at 09:38, Lozart said:
Timing does indeed mean the cycle of retracting the nozzle to allow the bb into the hop unit, then allowing it forward to seat the BB into the hop before the piston comes forward. If you're not getting a feeding issue that should be OK but if the nozzle isn't actually seating on the feed lips of the hop rubber properly you may be getting an air leak.
The chamfered tip of the nozzle should seal into the end of the hop rubber (the feed lip if you will). An easy test is to reassemble the gun, turn it upside down and place a small piece of paper over the feed tube. When you fire the gun the paper should move only minimally, if it blows off then there is air escaping down the feed tube.
Also - it may be the camera angle but your barrel doen't look straight in your hop unit - it may need twisting slightly to line it up.
So the paper moved a fair bit so I’m guessing air is escaping 🤦♂️
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6 hours ago, ak2m4 said:
@Pollynator_bravo2 clean that inner barrel and wash that rubber
Yeah fair point. Not done anything to it since I brought it off a seller. I think it was thrown together with bits from the Airsoft fair
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19 minutes ago, Lozart said:
Timing does indeed mean the cycle of retracting the nozzle to allow the bb into the hop unit, then allowing it forward to seat the BB into the hop before the piston comes forward. If you're not getting a feeding issue that should be OK but if the nozzle isn't actually seating on the feed lips of the hop rubber properly you may be getting an air leak.
The chamfered tip of the nozzle should seal into the end of the hop rubber (the feed lip if you will). An easy test is to reassemble the gun, turn it upside down and place a small piece of paper over the feed tube. When you fire the gun the paper should move only minimally, if it blows off then there is air escaping down the feed tube.
Also - it may be the camera angle but your barrel doen't look straight in your hop unit - it may need twisting slightly to line it up.
Awesome thanks I’ll try this.
if there is a leak does that mean I should fit a delay chip or slightly longer nozzle?
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14 hours ago, Skara said:
The SHS nozzles I bought a while ago were supposed to be 21.3 but they turned out to be 21.5 and change..
Length also depends on the hop unit, hop rubber and inner barrel, some combinations love short nozzles, others want longer.
For example the Maxx TE hop I have in my pdw says it wants 21.25mm tops but ran fine on the aforementioned 21.5mm shs nozzle for a while.
So the inner barrel is 360mm
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14 hours ago, Colin Allen said:
I have seen 21mm and 21.4mm. However, not all 21.4mm ones are the same length; there are marginal, but potentially significant, differences.
However, it could be a timing issue or one of many other issues which can occur when you bring different parts together.When you say timing do you mean when the nozzle moves forward and locates the bb into the feed lips before the piston sends the air down? Sorry if that’s a stupid question
also where should the nozzle
locate to when it enters the hop again?
I am not getting any miss feeding when the gun fires bbs fly so I think the retraction etc is ok
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3 hours ago, Colin Allen said:
Possibly a marginally different nozzle length, a different profile, or slightly too tight on the cylinder head tube.
Probably length as it’s the same I used previously with a health fps. Maybe too short? What other lengths are there for an m4 v2gb?
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16 minutes ago, Colin Allen said:
That should be ok for most M4 type barrel lengths. I use a similar one with a 360mm barrel.
Tbf I don’t think it’s over 400mm however I’ll check once I’m back home. Based on my poorly calibrated eyes I’m guessing between 350 to 370
in the past I’ve had similar platforms with nozzle related issues but I fitted an O ring to make sure the hop was as tight as poss to the gb/nozzle and the fps dropped 5 points 🤷🏻♂️
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So it’s a V2 gear box, Maple leaf 60 degree bucking, no delay chip, 13:1 gears, 18000 ASG motor, Rocket v2 tappet plate, SHS nozzle 21.4mm, Gate EON protector cylinder head, EON Power hybrid cylinder head.
Hop unit looks like a basic rotary unit but it was what come with the shell/receiver when I brought it second hand. The hop unit I used to run when fitted to the inner barrel, wouldn’t let the upper receiver fit all the way into the lower Reciever (this one has happened to me twice now so I’m wondering if some how I’ve made a school boy error when putting the upper back together)
I’ll get the measurements on the inner barrel and some more pictures later -
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I’ll measure up and check
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I’ve found a home for a gear box I had to take out of a polycarb body that broke. It’s got a M105 spring, eon piston head, cylinder head etc. The inner barrel on the previous gun was was under 300mm and I’d get a good 300fps on 0.25g. This guns inner barrel is over 300mm and I’m getting 215fps on 0.25g 😱
Ive checked the compression on the cylinder and nozzle and piston and it’s spot on.
is it possible the cylinder port needs to be further back so I need to buy another one?
or could it be something else ?
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Cheers. I thought that might of been the case 👍
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I’ve just swapped a v2 gear box from a king arms m4 into a lancer tactical m4. Both v2 gbs.
all went ok until I went to fit the upper reciever back and it wouldn’t locate all the way back by 3-5mm.i swapped the hops over no change. When I remove the hop and inner barrel it locates perfect. What am I missing apart from hope?
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20 hours ago, JinxDuh said:
Make sure your sites consider m4’s with drum mags to be “lmgs”, as my locals don’t consider them to be fit for LMG roles.
Fair point. I’m gonna try make is at close to a m249 as poss. I’m cheap skating the golden eagle 6669 tbf lol
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Evening - has anyone ever moved an m4 over to an lmg. If so what did you do to modify it?
sounds random but I’ve got an itch for an lmg build but have m4s to play with
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Chaps and chapesses
Ive got the HPA engine working on my mates gun but I think he will need a better mag. It’s mid cap DE stock one. I don’t think PTS do one. Anyone know of a good place to try or is it possible to upgrade a mid cap spring?
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Worked great thanks 🙏
Need to find a mid cap now with a good spring
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Thanks. It’s on the job list for tonight 😀
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1 hour ago, JVacation said:
@Pollynator_bravo2 - The maple leafs are too long for the DE hop unit. You can probably shave the bottom lip a little bit though which should resolve it.
Epic I’ll give it a go
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Afternoon
So I’ve had a gun come my way (fk why) which has been converted to HPA. It’s using a Titan Bluetooth2 trig unit and a Pulsar-S open bolt HPA engine.
When you fire it the bb dribbles out the barrel (after you tilt it forward). When I put my finger on the barrel as I pull the trigger the airflow felt weak. Turned up the flow on reg not much changed.
I changed the timings on the main valve(db) from 5ms up in increments of 5ms to 25ms and nothing changed.
It’s not the Pulsar S with a purple nozzle it has the silver/beige noz.
I read that it could be a problem with the feed lips. I did a quick check to see what the resistance was like by dropping a bb in and pushing it through. Tbh there wasn’t much there. I did the same with a spare hop I had which had a maple leaf bucking and there was a difference. I’ve swapped the hop and bucking over. I now have excellent air flow coming out per shot but now no bb is coming through the hop.
I was wondering if the maple leaf lips were a fraction to long as I’ve had this before on an aeg I tweaked.
anyone ever done any similar works that could guide me ?
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On 05/09/2023 at 20:35, Cannonfodder said:
Always best to try the simplest things first
Yeah that’s got the issue more under control. I need to get the power down now to 1.44j as I’m a bit hot at 1.62
Low fps could it be cylinder related?
in Electric Guns
Posted
Epic thanks for this. Next job on the list 😄