The_Lord_Poncho

Good to hear! I probably should give mine a second chance then. As ,much as I love the idea of making it work, it just doesn't seem to be able to apply any appreciable hop to even .2s, and the spread is wild. I've cleaned the barrels and fixed hops gently with alcohol soaked patches in case they were covered in grease/oil, but no difference....

Yes, mine was wildly leaking from new - I had to remove the buffer tube (mine has the M4 type stock), then re-lube the o rings and re-tighten. I'm not shy about taking things apart (albeit the M14 was admittedly a stretch), but I'm told that shotguns are a bit of a nightmare to strip down!

Well how did it go?! My GE 870 was used for less than one CQB game whereupon i realised that the spread of shot (even if the bbs actually reached in the first place) was greater than a person sized target at 5-10 meters!

Spoon carving knives are particularly lethal! I've seen more cuts from those than any other knife....

That's odd. I wonder if in reality, it would progress through the order without needing to add one in. Never heard of that requirement for mags before.

It's not illegal to advertise such a thing to my knowledge, just against the rules of this site as its an air pistol, not an airsoft gun. That said, nice shooter!

Possibly....worth trying a little back and seeing what happens!

You will find that with almost every shot, unless you wait a minute or so between them, the FPS will likely drop - due to the cooldown of the gas.

Another reason that it might be wildly fluctuating- especially if you are getting a few sky high readings  -is that the Chrono is picking up the gas cloud itself. In which case, try holding the muzzle a little way back from the chrono (whilst taking a lot of care not to shoot out your screen!)

I've got a 2004 V8 disco 2 - super practical. Huge space in the back, superbly comfortable to drive, excellent visibility. Also immense off road. Mine is lifted, bigger tyres, longer shocks etc, and a bit of underbody protection.

But - i had to put a new engine into it within a month of buying it (bought at 55k miles), constant electrical gremlins, leaking sunroofs and almost everything else, sagging headlining, issues with the anti roll system, problems with the xyz gear selector. The rotting rear chassis is probably the element that will finally kill it over the next year (at 75k miles). I've managed most fixes myself - there are amazing internet resources and forums, and parts are generally plentiful/not crazy expensive in the most part (apart from the new engine)!

Go for the purchase, they are great fun - but go in with your eyes open. Buying a proper land rover diagnostic tool is not an option, its critical. I'd recommend a nanocom, its saved me so many times.

I've got a 2004 V8 disco 2 - super practical. Huge space in the back, superbly comfortable to drive, excellent visibility. Also immense off road. Mine is lifted, bigger tyres, longer shocks etc, and a bit of underbody protection.

But - i had to put a new engine into it within a month of buying it (bought at 55k miles), constant electrical gremlins, leaking sunroofs and almost everything else, sagging headlining, issues with the anti roll system, problems with the xyz gear selector. The rotting rear chassis is probably the element that will finally kill it over the next year (at 75k miles). I've managed most fixes myself - there are amazing internet resources and forums, and parts are generally plentiful/not crazy expensive in the most part (apart from the new engine)!

Go for the purchase, they are great fun - but go in with your eyes open. Buying a proper land rover diagnostic tool is not an option, its critical. I'd recommend a nanocom, its saved me so many times.

I might be interested in buying a few of these off you if you want to cut your losses!

No. (But I have their M140, and its awesome). When i was researching them before, if I recall, I concluded that the M170 would likely result in overspin for me.