Harvem
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Posts posted by Harvem
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1 hour ago, Rogerborg said:
Yes, but if you're really concerned about gaps, then why rule out a Dye or equivalent?
The I-force have decent seal and the dual pane works pretty well. The inner lenses are prone to some peculiar crazing. Mine didn't do that, but I replaced them with some cheap PETG anyway when they got a bit mucky and scuffed. I'd recommend them at the price as a default choice.
Although bear in mind that Murcans tend to run at higher energies, and everybody loves a good "I nearly got turned into a newt" story.
I just don't like how a Dye looks. Good to know about the possible crazing of the I-force.
54 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:I'm using a set of ESS British Army surplus goggles. Full seal, and once you know to pop the lenses away from the face to open the vents, they're pretty good at not fogging up (any movement will get enough air through those vents to clear them)
Dirt cheap too! (Well mine were, looks like they're ~£30 at the moment)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175352472498Looks good and affordable, thanks for the suggestion!
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So I'm currently using a Bolle X800 as eye pro. However after seeing this post on Reddit, where someone almost lost their eye, I don't feel comfortable using them anymore, and am looking for a replacement.
However there's so many options out there, so I could use some help to make a choice.
Here's what I want from my eye pro:
- Gotta be true full seal.
- Gonna be used both in CQB and woodland games.
- Preferably low/medium profile, though still protects my face enough. I wear a helmet and a mesh mask, so I want the goggles to not leave too much of a gap between the helm and the goggles, and the goggles and the mesh mask.
- Doesn't fog too much.
I'm not looking for a paintball mask like a Dye since I'm going for more of a realistic look, so really looking into goggles.
Here's what I have found so far:
- Pyramex I-force
- Bolle Tracker 2
- Bolle X1000
- Revision Desert Locus
I wonder if the really low profile ones, like the I-force and the Tracker 2, will offer enough protection, especially in CQB? Won't they leave a lot of skin exposed between the goggles and my helmet/mesh mask?
But then again they're fairly cheap, while the medium profiles one like the X1000 and Desert Locus are a lot more expensive. I might buy an Exfog if fog is a problem with my new goggles, but combined with expensive goggles, that quickly becomes a very expensive setup.
So, any ideas or advice as to these goggles, or any others you guys wanna recommend?
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2 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
it is, but given this is a sport where people are coming with varying degrees of technical knowledge (ie don't know the dangers of mesh) why make yourself the person who could have them learn the hard way?
Can't argue with that tbh.
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11 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
because the aim of this sport is to have fun, not hurt people.
I totally get that and fully agree. But it's also your own responsibility to wear good eye pro, right?
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Why would you feel guilty for a shattering BB causing some damage though? It's a well known fact mesh eye pro is not very safe, precisely for this reason. Someone still wants to wear mesh eye pro instead of goggles it's at their own risk, not something you should feel guilty about at all. At least in my book.
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Best: a real Odin speedloader.
Worst: a knockoff Odin speedloader. Used it once, but it couldn't load my EPM mags, so I never used it again and later bought the real one.
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3 hours ago, Lozart said:
Fair play. Certainly look at the Victoptics scopes, they are very good for the price. I have one on my SCAR and the slightly more expensive Vector Optics one on my M14 EBR. If anything the Victoptics one is better as it's a First Focal Plane scope (not sure if the one you linked to is).
I went with the Aim-O 1-4x24 scope. I found it quite cheap at a more local shop, and it looks very similar to the Victoroptics one.
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15 minutes ago, Lozart said:
Ask and ye shall receive:
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This is how it should be (with an eotech style sight)
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So basically the magnifier sits way too high to use with the open style reflex sights. You can pretty much just see the top frame of the sight in the magnifier.
Thanks a lot! Guess I'll go for a 1-4x scope instead then 😁
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26 minutes ago, Lozart said:
Definitely look at the victoptics one instead of the Nov one. Very good glass for the price.
The G33 style magnifier is designed to work with eotech style sights so I doubt it would line up properly with that red dot. I do have both though so I can set them up and check if you like?
Would be very nice to know whether that would work or not!
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Lots of different opinions here, thanks for all the input!
18 hours ago, RostokMcSpoons said:I tried a 4x32 scope on my M4... spent ages buying scope mounts to get a comfy height, strongly thought about upgrading to a better scope before even trying it, played a morning with it on and switched back to a red dot.
It seemed like a good idea at the time.The experience hasn't stopped me from considering another experiment, but I'd probably want to try a scope with zoom, preferably all the way back to 1X, and with a red dot style reticule, so I can play 'normally' when I'm in a hurry to get to an objective. The problem is that such scopes are much more expensive than even the 3-6x40 style that you can pick up quite cheaply off eBay.
So it probably won't happen.
I may try the scope again, as my playstyle has evolved a bit since that first attempt (it's now slower, measured stalking, rather than a blind rush to the front-line)Novritsch sells a 1-4X scope, so that might be worth checking out? And there's also some cheaper options than Nov, like this one for example: https://www.taiwangun.com/scopes/victoptics-zod-1-4x20-riflescope-vector-optics
17 hours ago, Hudson said:Taking it in a different route, do you wear glasses?
If not, how's your vision, and have you had an eye test recently?
It could be something as simple as that.
I struggled with spotting people at a distance for a while, until I finally found out I needed glasses.
They made a world of difference once I did though!
Yes I wear glasses, and I got my eyes checked last year when I got contact lenses for airsoft. So that should not be the problem, good call though.
13 hours ago, Fatboy40 said:I run one of these and swap it between my DMR and AEG...
https://www.combatsouth.co.uk/element-aim-o-g33-magnifier-x3-black/
... and went for this one as it's an EOTECH rip-off using the better mount that has less wobble, and it's been a magic bullet for me.
My biggest ever kill streak, easily 20 plus, was using it on my AEG in a forest when I was in a nice spot where people wouldn't expect anyone to be. I could spot shapes moving behind bushes well before they got in range, and could then lob a few BB's in their path and they just walked into them, which I couldn't have done with the flip to side to spot them.
And maybe I'm a little lucky but it's worked perfectly with my EOTECH clone red dot and dirt cheap £30 smaller red dot, I've not had to make any adjustments at all.
Would that work with an open red dot that looks like this? Or would the distance between the magnifier and the dot be too big you think?
I might get the cheap magnifier, or go for one of the 1-4 scopes, so I can easily switch between no zoom and 2 or 3 times zoom. Or I might get a cheap monocular... lots to think about!
- Floperator, RostokMcSpoons and Hudson
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So when playing outdoors I often notice that I find it very hard to spot enemies. My team mates will often spot enemies that I cannot seem to spot myself at all. This weekend I played in a dense forest and I really struggled to find the enemy. I got shot so many times without any idea where the shots came from.
So this got me thinking. I play with a regular red dot (one of these), maybe I should switch to a zoom optic? Would that make it easier to scan around for enemies and spot them? But then we're playing at such short ranges, especially with an AEG, that it seems strange to use a zoomed optic for that? Any advice?
Also any recommendations for a specific zoomed optic are greatly appreciated.
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Made a family picture 😁
- MagpieTactical and Paul72
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12 hours ago, Halo said:
Ditch the helmet, unless there tons of vents otherwise the humidity your sweed lets out will just track back into your goggles!
I know as today I tested no less than 3 top of the range goggles and they all fogged! I wore a fast helmet (zero vents) chin to ear mesh and then whatever gigs.
I won’t use ballistic glasses as none seem to cover your eye entirely and all it takes is one random bb….
Disappointed, I reached into my bag and found a gym hat with mesh all over it, as soon as I stuck this on not only did I find actually bbs hardy hard but fogging dramatically decreased!
Well on the same day that I was having fogging issues, I also happened to fall backwards in a well and bumped my head on the back. Seriously hurt my back, but the helmet might have protected me from a more serious head injury, so I really wanna keep the helmet for now.
I'm currently waiting for my back to be completely ok before going back out to play airsoft, but I'll try with the sweatband and some revision anti fog wipes for now. If that doesn't work, I might look into some solution with a fan. And if that's still not enough, I might ditch the helmet.
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Thanks for all the replies! Many good ideas here. For now I'm gonna go with a sweatband and revision wipes. If that's not enough, I'll look into a different style of mask and potentially the exfog 🙂
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Probably not the first nor the last topic about this, but here goes. Yesterday I had to run back quite a few times to the safe zone because of sweat/fog on my goggles, so I need some advice in how to combat this. I'm also not sure whether it was sweat dripping into my goggles or fog.
So, here's what I run: A helmet, Bolle X800 goggles and a mesh mask that attaches to my helmet. This is what it looks like:
Now, as for the conditions I was playing in: I was playing at an indoor/outdoor field: mostly indoor, but it's an old factory that doesn't really have any doors, windows are either completely open or smashed in. So, if it's foggy outside, it's gonna be foggy inside. If it's freezing cold outside, it's gonna be freezing cold inside as well. You get the point 😛.
As for yesterday, temperature was at around 10 degrees Celsius, with quite a lot of moisture in the air: breading sometimes formed a breath cloud.
What I'm not sure about: was it fog that I was combating or was it sweat? It seemed more like sweat was dripping into my goggles, as they just became wet instead of foggy. Does this make any sense? I also noticed the inside padding of my helmet was very wet, so it probably couldn't adsorb any more sweat.
I've heard a lot of good things about exfog, but I'm not sure if it's the right solution to me, as I might be combating sweat instead of fog? So a simple sweatband might be a better solution? Any advice from the more experienced players here, should I go with a sweatband or with an exfog? Or are there any other solutions you guys recommend? Thanks!
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1 hour ago, Adolf Hamster said:
hmm, that is a bit wide.
it's hard to say what specifically is the cause, but have a read here for the common checks:
i'd make sure to read the foreword a couple of times and be sure you want to risk opening up the box.
if the seal is between the nozzle and hop, then changing the hop rubber (especially to a maple leaf as they tend to have longer feedlips) could well improve it enough anyway.
I'll take a look at it, thanks!
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On 08/10/2021 at 23:11, Adolf Hamster said:
start with just the rubber and nub and work from there.
as a general rule unless there's anything specifically wrong with the stock unit i tend to reccommend not changing them. the pro-win units are regarded as having qc issues these days, so you wouldn't be guaranteed it'll improve anything.
i'd not bother with the barrel, if you must change then the ZCI 6.02 stainless barrels are very good bang for buck but tbh i'd be putting my attention to the air seal within the gearbox.
that said, if the airseal is decent (relatively low shot to shot deviation) then it's probably not worth pulling the box apart.
Air seal doesn't seem great, got about 10 to 15 FPS deviation. What upgrades would I need to improve that?
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I got a long-ish suppressor that I want to use purely for looks. It's 5.9 inches long. However I don't have an extended inner barrel, so the BB will be going straight through the suppressor. I don't think BBs will really be hitting the inside of the suppressor, but would this affect accuracy? Maybe the air can't follow the BB so good or something like that? Anyone else running a mock suppressor without an extended inner barrel that could shine some light on this maybe? Thanks.
We're talking an AEG btw, not sure if that really matters though.
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23 hours ago, Rogerborg said:
Maple Leaf rubbers, yes. 60 or even 50 for 1.1J. Personally I'm not hugely sold on the omega nubs, but plenty of folk love them, and Gear Parts do a knock-off for a lot less.
Prowin, nah, ZCI plastic rotary hops do a great job for a tenner. Sadly, some YouTube celeb bought up most of the UK stock a while back and they're still hard to find.
Barrels, I've never spunked Prometheus money on one, I'm fine with ZCI and AOLS which perform well enough. I don't know how "precise" that CYMA is, but all airsoft QC is essentially random anyway.
There's no right or wrong answer, or a magical way to get more than a few metres of effective range, it's all about what makes you feel good.
I'll take a look at the ZCI hop ups, thanks!
23 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:start with just the rubber and nub and work from there.
as a general rule unless there's anything specifically wrong with the stock unit i tend to reccommend not changing them. the pro-win units are regarded as having qc issues these days, so you wouldn't be guaranteed it'll improve anything.
i'd not bother with the barrel, if you must change then the ZCI 6.02 stainless barrels are very good bang for buck but tbh i'd be putting my attention to the air seal within the gearbox.
that said, if the airseal is decent (relatively low shot to shot deviation) then it's probably not worth pulling the box apart.
I'm gonna play tomorrow, so I'll test the shot to shot deviation to see if the air seal is good. As for the hop up, I want to change it for a rotary one, since the stock one is not a rotary.
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Hi all,
Got into airsoft a few months ago, and am now looking to upgrade my Cyma Platinum CM097b.
I'm mainly looking for slightly more range and a bit more accuracy. I'm currently using 0.28's, though I might go to 0.30 or 0.32 once my current bottle of 0.28 BBs is empty. The replica shoots at around 340-350 FPS.
Here's the list of upgrades I have in mind:
- Maple leaf super macaron hop up rubber 60°
- Maple leaf omega nub tensioner
- Prowin hop up
- Prometheus barrel
What do you guys think about this? Any advice or things you would change on my list?
Also, is a different barrel worth it? The replica already comes with a precision inner barrel out of the box and these barrels are not cheap, so not sure if it's worth the price?
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Ok, good to know, thanks!
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Hi all,
I just got my 2nd RIF and I also got a second battery for it. So I now have one of those Titan Li-ion batteries, and I have a Lipo battery. Would it be safe to keep them stored together in 1 lipo safety bag, or should I buy another safety bag for every battery I buy?
Would a zoom optic on an AEG make any sense?
in General Help
Posted
I was finally able to play with my new variable zoom optic yesterday. I didn't really need it to spot enemies, since the field was quite open. I did however hit one of the most satisfying shots I've ever hit in my airsoft career 😁
Someone was hiding behind a fence, but I could see their helmet poking out. It was quite far away, so I zoomed in to see where my BBs were landing. Thanks to that I was able to adjust my aim and I got him in a couple shots! Felt so satisfying 😃